[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by jwramr

2012 BMW 335is with 60,500 miles. Bought from Gwinnet Place BMW with 58k on it. Car was sold new there, traded...resold as certified pre-owned and then traded again. I am the third owner.

Bought this April. Got oil changed about 500 miles ago at top BMW mechanic in the area. Car was immediately noisier. I didn't think much of it. I had walnut shell done at same time and oil filter gasket and oil cooler seal...plus tensioner, pulleys and belt. When I bought the car, injectors, water pump, all that jazz has already been taken care if.

Anyway, knock sensors detected the noise about 500 miles after the oil change and I took it right away to get looked at. Sure enough, rod bearing. Needs a new engine. 2,200 miles is what I got. 500 of those driving it home on day 1.

$1,200 in tires, $1,500 in the services, $700 for a second key fob, etc etc.

The mechanic has decades of experience working only on BMW and he thinks it is very likely the last owner heard a noise or someone alerted them about it... added oil treatment, motor honey or whatever and traded it in. This car is pristine otherwise and remarkably clean.

Just crazy.

Right now car is at local bmw dealer to confirm diagnosis and see what is next. I am at a loss.

Did you have a warranty on the car when you bought it?

Rod Bearings on an N54 is really rare.

[jwramr]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Did you have a warranty on the car when you bought it?

Rod Bearings on an N54 is really rare.

I have a warranty - but there was a waiting period after I bought it. 30 days and 1,000 miles. Past the 30 days, but 460 miles short on the 1,000 miles part.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by jwramr

I have a warranty - but there was a waiting period after I bought it. 30 days and 1,000 miles. Past the 30 days, but 460 miles short on the 1,000 miles part.

Ouch

[jwramr]

Originally Posted by Jklad

It's a shitty situation for sure. It's hard to believe that not prolong after an ofhg job would cause a spun bearing. Every model bmw in the entire fleet has been having ofhg leaks since prior 1998, and in 99% of ofhg repairs since that time the mechanic would not have primed but rather simply topped coolant / oil.

I think the dealer is trying to shift the blame here. I would:

1. Verify that the mechanic actually said he did not know about this procedure to the dealership and admittedly did not perform it - I would not necessarily believe the dealership here.

2. Verify That the sib you are holding applies to n54 for your model year.

If yes, ask for proof that priming/not priming after an ofhg resulted in the spin bearing in your engine for your particular situation.

Finally, what's unfortunate is you might be SOL without any recourse, sucks that they would sell you a car whose engine blows 1700 miles later, this is everyone's greatest fear.

Perhaps informing bmwusa that you had the car for a week, and that the dealership recommended the mechanic can play in your favor some how, again placing some of the onus on them. Engines for this car are very common, so getting a used one while still costly will hopefully not be as painful. Good luck.

1. I verified with the mechanic. He said that only applies to fresh or rebuilt engines...he was actually the one who texted this image to me. Clearly states oil filter housing as part of repairs that require procedure.

2. Yes, it applies to model "All"

BMW dealer said no way to conclusively prove causation. Funny thing is, head service manager where I bought the car stated:

"I have been with BMW for 20 years and I have never seen a knock code from a spun bearing"

hilariously enough, that is the code that was thrown that sent the car into limp mode and me to the mechanic for diagnosis.

"Well, that is a first for me, I will request the fault codes for review."

Gotta love it. Nice guy, we are both being honest from what I can tell.

Maybe honesty wins the day?

[mweisdorfer]

Look into these guys

https://www.abrhouston.com/build-you...yAAEgL3hvD_BwE

[mweisdorfer]

Here's another one

https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/co...bmw-n54-engine

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Here's another one

https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/co...bmw-n54-engine

Oh no not Ghassan again!!

[jwramr]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Oh no not Ghassan again!!

I assume you mean - not another dead N54!! Right?

[hellokitty]

Sorry to hear OP. Might want to consider a mildly built engine at this point since the price of N54 engines have come down

[jwramr]

I pushed back on the idea that somehow the OHFG job was to blame. I didn't push for a new engine, or even a reman. However, dealer has a source for top quality used engines and they have ordered a used engine with about the same miles on it as the one that is blown. They are picking up the car today by flatbed and taking it back to their dealership. They have the history of the motor and it has a great service history.

I am not out of pocket for the repairs. They are going to throw a 30 day 1,000 mile warranty on it as "GAP" coverage and then my extended warranty will kick in.

Please help me understand what I need to be asking here if you guys can think of anything. I have no clue what to be asking here.

Should I be pushing for a reman and offer to cover the difference between the used engine and the reman?

1) They said they can scavenge parts from my engine if need be if those parts are newer and in better shape.

2) I asked and they are going to swap in the used engine and provide a compression test on it once it is running. I don't know a better way to see how strong the engine is.

3) Water pump, injectors, OFHG, oh my...what parts do I need to make sure they are addressing?

4) is there things that you guys would try and get done during this process? I am never going to want a 600 hp motor. However, are there things that would be smart to upgrade at this point? Headers? Intake?

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by jwramr

I pushed back on the idea that somehow the OHFG job was to blame. I didn't push for a new engine, or even a reman. However, dealer has a source for top quality used engines and they have ordered a used engine with about the same miles on it as the one that is blown. They are picking up the car today by flatbed and taking it back to their dealership. They have the history of the motor and it has a great service history.

I am not out of pocket for the repairs. They are going to throw a 30 day 1,000 mile warranty on it as "GAP" coverage and then my extended warranty will kick in.

Please help me understand what I need to be asking here if you guys can think of anything. I have no clue what to be asking here.

Should I be pushing for a reman and offer to cover the difference between the used engine and the reman?

1) They said they can scavenge parts from my engine if need be if those parts are newer and in better shape.

2) I asked and they are going to swap in the used engine and provide a compression test on it once it is running. I don't know a better way to see how strong the engine is.

3) Water pump, injectors, OFHG, oh my...what parts do I need to make sure they are addressing?

4) is there things that you guys would try and get done during this process? I am never going to want a 600 hp motor. However, are there things that would be smart to upgrade at this point? Headers? Intake?

While the engine is out, I'd have them replace the oil pan gasket at a minimum, and the valve cover and valve cover gasket (you should replace entire cover, not just the gasket).

Also may want to get a fresh water pump and tstat in there since it will fail in about 20k miles (unless you're under some kind of warranty and do t mind getting stranded and towed when it fails).

New vacuum lines to the turbos, have them check the rear main seal, maybe a good time for new front pulley kit and belt as well.

Also check what index injectors the new engine has vs yours.

At some point it's easy to get carried away with it...

[nissubaru]

If you can get them to do it I'd have them throw in King standard replacement bearings (CR 222SV)

https://www.raceeng.com/p-39525-king...t-cr222sv.aspx

I think you need 3 sets of these, ~$100 total with shipping. I installed them on my junkyard motor and it's running great so far. Knock on wood though, still a little nervous. I'm only 350 miles or so into the new motor.

But these are the bearings that remans use so ignore my concerns.

[JuniorB]

This is a sad situation, and feel your pain. I didn’t believe either that there has been spun bearings in relation with ofh and oil changes. There are more than a few for instances. As far as going into a used motor, it’s a never ending situation, and depends on if there even going to do it, and the price you want to pay. I wouldn’t go replacing parts for the sake of it, especially at a dealer. The things to be concerned about are, front, rear oil seals, and a pan gasket. The other things can be done as a diy, or a lower $ per hour. Some say not to bother if it’s leaking, it’s for piece of mind. Keep in mind there putting oem parts on, with dealer hourly rate, you’ll lose your ass in labor if you’re not careful. The best part of this whole situation is, your at the dealer, were you know it’s going to be done right. Best of luck with this

[jwramr]

Appreciate the feedback guys.

I called another respected BMW specialty shop nearby and he offered up some suggestions as well.

Turbo oil lines
Turbo coolant lines
All gaskets, including oil pan
Rod bearings
Fuel pump (maybe one from mine is fine?)
Injectors (again, maybe mine are fine?)
Water pump, new, tstat new
Belts, hoses
Spark plugs
Make sure injectors are matched and latest version
Compression test they will share once the engine is running again

I communicated all of that and the dealer is fine with all of it. They mentioned some additional things they will be checking. I don't remember offhand exactly what those were.

Bottom line, I am reasonably confident in a decent outcome here. Engine will be delivered Friday. Should be a week or so to get it all running again.

Again, thanks for the heads up on what to look for.

[abellia11214@yahoo.com]

Been following this thread from afar. I really hope things work out for you. You are experiencing the worst nightmare of car ownership. You sound like a class act. Best of luck.

[jwramr]

Originally Posted by abellia11214@yahoo.com

Been following this thread from afar. I really hope things work out for you. You are experiencing the worst nightmare of car ownership. You sound like a class act. Best of luck.

Rotten luck to be sure. I am 100% sure if the dealer had known, they would not have sold the vehicle. Getting nasty or angry rarely actually solves problems. Just working with the dealer to get it handled.

Car was picked up today and taken the 500 miles back to the dealer. Once this is over, I will use every tool at my disposal to heap praise on them for how they handled this situation. Google my business, Facebook, BBB, you name it. You can bet that I will also be buying future vehicles from their network. I am looking for an SUV for trips and a car for my daughter as we speak.

While things did not move at light speed to this point, I am overall, very impressed with them.

[abellia11214@yahoo.com]

This one hit close to home cause Oil Housing gasket are a common DIY and I do all the work myself on my 2009 328xi and I never would have thought of priming the oil after doing something like. Rude awakening. I actually sent link to friends as a cautionary tale. Of course this assumes changing the Oil Housing gasket actually caused the problem. A TB from BMW seems to indicate that the possibility exists. Good luck. Its a beautiful car. I had one years back. 328 convertible. Loved it.

[oilcrankinject]

My OFHG was leaking, no spun rod bearings.

My car ate a serp belt, found lots of belt pieces in the oil pickup tube, spun bearing(s).

[jwramr]

Update 12/5/2019

Not over - but getting closer, I think.

Cliff notes:

1) Dealer sends flatbed to my local dealer and picks up car.
2) Dealer runs their own diagnostics and determines, yes, engine needs replaced.
3) Dealer suggests used engine. I express reservations but agree with one condition...compression and leak down test on used engine.
4) Engine ordered, delivered, installed - used engine then fails compression test...BADLY.
5) I call around and find a used option for $4,500 that has been compression and leak down tested. Dealer insists their vendor will make it right - and send another used engine. Crickets and then no dice.
6) Dealer contacts me back a couple days ago and says...find an engine.
7) I found a used 35k mile engine for $4,500 plus shipping. I also found a fresh N54B30A from BMW exch. short engine part number 11002155837 - for $6,000 (real oem says the part number for the direct replacement for mine is 11002155829). Other than swapping oil pan with my old one, identical engine from everything I could tell. It is on a pallet and ready to ship out tomorrow (fingers crossed).

[nikitino25]

So what exactly is the oil priming precedure?

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by nikitino25

So what exactly is the oil priming precedure?

Pull the plugs to the injectors and try starting the car a few times.

[feuer]

jwramr tell more about the BMW Engine exchange program. Is this engine in above photos used or new?