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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > All-Wheel-Drive (Xi / xDrive) Talk > Death of an x-drive N54?



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      04-07-2019, 07:33 PM   #1
335xs2dinan
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Death of an x-drive N54?

2008 335xi, 156,000 miles. Prior replacement of u joint around 80,000 miles.

Driving to work yesterday and started getting a vibration noise from seemingly below my driver seat. Definitely a concern but car was driving fine, no "new" engine lights and only about 3 miles from destination. Then hear a loud pop, sounded like something broke off the car but nobody really swerving to avoid anything behind me. Vibration/noise goes away but the 4x4 and brake lights come on. Car drives surprisingly fine and gets me destination with no issue but take a look underneath and I've got a bulge and the car is bleeding out.

What kind of monetary damage am I looking at on this repair? What will be involved. My friend tells me I'm going to be trading in and getting a new ride. I'm hoping that's not the case. Anyone with a similar experience please share.

I attached a few pictures to see what people think. Looks to me like front driveshaft broke and punched through the transmission pan. Not sure if transmission itself is damaged, not sure why brake light went on.

Thanks in advance!
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      04-07-2019, 10:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
...started getting a vibration noise from seemingly below my driver seat. Definitely a concern but car was driving fine, no "new" engine lights and only about 3 miles from destination...
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      04-08-2019, 08:40 AM   #3
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Had you stopped initially, probably minor repair costs. Getting you to your destination probably cost you a significant sum in hard parts.

Impossible to diagnose with those photos. I'd take it to your trusted indy shop or trusted bmw tech friend and find out the hard part damage and if the number is too high, try and source used parts yourself.

I doubt you'll need to trade it in on anything, depends on your preference, most anything is fixable. That said if you're one to ignore noises, smoke, smell and vibration. Maybe a newer maintenance free car is more for you? lol
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      04-08-2019, 08:13 PM   #4
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I wouldnt listen to your friend. Trading in a car that has some light mechanical damage is not the way to own a vehicle. Could be a busted oil pan or transmission housing. Maybe a clutch or fluid line. They are all right around that area. Either way youre probably looking at about 1k in used parts. I say its not a big deal.

Get it up on jack stands and take off the belly pans off and get us some pictures. We can help you sort this out.
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      04-08-2019, 11:01 PM   #5
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Might have broke the front drive shaft(I've broke 3) And oil poured out of the transfer case, and or front diff.

Good chance continuing to drive cost more than a tow would have.
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      04-09-2019, 08:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixSpd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
...started getting a vibration noise from seemingly below my driver seat. Definitely a concern but car was driving fine, no "new" engine lights and only about 3 miles from destination...
Dying to know what the "old" engine lights were. Seeing a pattern here... maybe OP should consider a Honda.
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      04-09-2019, 10:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
Might have broke the front drive shaft(I've broke 3) And oil poured out of the transfer case, and or front diff.

Good chance continuing to drive cost more than a tow would have.
it looks like you can see the yoke.

front driveshaft broke.
maybe took the output on the t case, maybe swung around and hit something else.

jack it up and find out, it's gonna be obvious.
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      04-09-2019, 10:09 PM   #8
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Thank you to the last couple posters who provided input and offered advice.

Obviously driving on it was a mistake but things progressed quickly over a mile or two and not sure anyone here actually would have or even could have done anything different.

Had the car inspected today damage was to the transmission pan, front driveshaft and transfer box. Luckily the transmission itself wasn't affected. Will get a detailed quote w part numbers etc probably tomorrow and start looking for parts to see if I can lower this $6k+ bill.
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      04-09-2019, 10:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by relative4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixSpd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
...started getting a vibration noise from seemingly below my driver seat. Definitely a concern but car was driving fine, no "new" engine lights and only about 3 miles from destination...
Dying to know what the "old" engine lights were. Seeing a pattern here... maybe OP should consider a Honda.
Quote:
Originally Posted by relative4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixSpd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
...started getting a vibration noise from seemingly below my driver seat. Definitely a concern but car was driving fine, no "new" engine lights and only about 3 miles from destination...
Dying to know what the "old" engine lights were. Seeing a pattern here... maybe OP should consider a Honda.
O2 sensors for 90000+ miles, owned the car for 10 years and 140,000 miles. Prior car sc300 also modified and ran it for 200,000 miles, never replaced o2 sensors on that either. Good luck with whatever you have going on.
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      04-10-2019, 09:35 AM   #10
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that's about what I figured.

find you a used case and send it.
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      04-10-2019, 05:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
Might have broke the front drive shaft(I've broke 3) And oil poured out of the transfer case, and or front diff.

Good chance continuing to drive cost more than a tow would have.
looks like you were spot on. what replacement driveshaft did you use? i found dorman for $315, powertrain $450 and genuine bmw $850 range, any thoughts on these?
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      04-10-2019, 05:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
that's about what I figured.

find you a used case and send it.
looks like you were spot on also.

happen to know of a good source? i see some on ebay and a website called allusedparts.com in $400-$700 range although no information really on condition other than mention of mileage.
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      04-10-2019, 07:42 PM   #13
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there's an LKQ pull a part in toledo
probably your best bet for cheap.

honestly I've had real good luck finding people parting out cars on facebook.
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      04-11-2019, 01:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
looks like you were spot on. what replacement driveshaft did you use? i found dorman for $315, powertrain $450 and genuine bmw $850 range, any thoughts on these?
Always junkyard replacements. Same part number from 325xi, 328xi, 330xi, 335xi iirc.
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      04-11-2019, 08:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
looks like you were spot on. what replacement driveshaft did you use? i found dorman for $315, powertrain $450 and genuine bmw $850 range, any thoughts on these?
Always junkyard replacements. Same part number from 325xi, 328xi, 330xi, 335xi iirc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
looks like you were spot on. what replacement driveshaft did you use? i found dorman for $315, powertrain $450 and genuine bmw $850 range, any thoughts on these?
Always junkyard replacements. Same part number from 325xi, 328xi, 330xi, 335xi iirc.
So did your driveshafts fail because you are making a lot of power/launching hard or were you disappointed in the junkyard replacements ? I think I have a lead on a good used transfer case hopefully get it this weekend. Thanks for your advice
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      04-12-2019, 05:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xs2dinan View Post
So did your driveshafts fail because you are making a lot of power/launching hard or were you disappointed in the junkyard replacements ? I think I have a lead on a good used transfer case hopefully get it this weekend. Thanks for your advice
I'm not sure whats breaking mine. I don't launch often, I'm not making crazy power. FBO with inlets and outlets, about E10 for octane boost. Most I used to make was JB4 map 7 with race BEF. No dyno, guessing close to 380ish awhp with fresh turbos?

Mine is MT and I suspect my transfer case and transmission mounts are worn, causing extra stress on that shaft. Any time you are under the car, have a look and feel. I caught 2 before the broke(barley) and blew one up. That was loud AF. Luckily I was in town and only an $80 tow.
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      05-19-2019, 01:41 PM   #17
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Thanks everyone for there help and advice. I found a good used transfer case and driveshaft for a deal from a local member. Total cost ended up being pretty manageable after all. Car is back up and running.

Have noticed another issue which I don't think is related. Haven't found much searching the issue either. At highway speed around 85-90mph and up, the rpms will oscillate, feels like someone is letting on and off the gas but I'm not and also happens on cruise control. Appreciate any thoughts.
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      05-19-2019, 10:11 PM   #18
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Good to hear about getting back on the road.

As for the rpm issue, could it be transmission slipping? The shock to the system from the driveshaft May have damaged something. Assuming you checked the tranny fluid level?
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      05-20-2019, 09:46 PM   #19
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Thank you. Yeah the transmission pan bled out and was replaced along with new fluid. This behavior is happening around 2500 rpms at freeway speed and doesn't seem to be at a point where the transmission would be searching/deciding between two gears. Could be wishful thinking but I really hope it's not the transmission. Also I do think I noticed it before this driveshaft failure and associated damage happened.
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