[Red Racer]

From what I have found, to keep this seat working for more than 15 - 30secs requires some form of stimulation - K-Can or other stimulation. If connecting to the vehicle (various years), coding and/or attaching to the BMW's computer would be required and is in the earlier conversations.

If you choose not to, you can use my idea of adding the simulation box to both seats to keep the seats active / working. Mine has memory, but does not function. I read earlier that the memory is saved in the vehicle's memory which I don't have.

Sorry - my fix is for a retrofit without a BMW computer simulation.

Thanks for your comments on the fastback. Just couldn't disconnect from BMW's performance. The M5 is incredible at all speeds and the 850i's V12 6sp is smooth a silk over 150mph! You just can't get that in a 50+ year old mustang, but I'll keep trying...

[blackshark]

Originally Posted by Red Racer

From what I have found, to keep this seat working for more than 15 - 30secs requires some form of stimulation - K-Can or other stimulation. If connecting to the vehicle (various years), coding and/or attaching to the BMW's computer would be required and is in the earlier conversations.

If you choose not to, you can use my idea of adding the simulation box to both seats to keep the seats active / working. Mine has memory, but does not function. I read earlier that the memory is saved in the vehicle's memory which I don't have.

Sorry - my fix is for a retrofit without a BMW computer simulation.

Thanks for your comments on the fastback. Just couldn't disconnect from BMW's performance. The M5 is incredible at all speeds and the 850i's V12 6sp is smooth a silk over 150mph! You just can't get that in a 50+ year old mustang, but I'll keep trying...

hello ,

my question was if I have two seats that are not active. the driver has a module and the passenger does not. I remove them and put two non-active seats, the driver has a module and the passenger also has a module. I then pull the CAN-BUS cables from the passenger to the idrive or JBE or a CAN network splice. then would I have to code? I will not use the memory in the passenger because they are not active. And the passenger seat does not have position sensors (from pins 1 to 4 that are in the connectors of the height or length adjustment or headrest etc. There are only 2 pins, not the 4 since the other 2 correspond to the sensors) So I don't know why it would be necessary to code ... maybe for the car to allow the voltage to be supplied to the module to move the seat, it would give the order that if you can move it with the buttons. otherwise there is power available, there is CAN connection but there is no order from the car and therefore it does not move ... or it moves 15 seconds until it is the turn of the passenger to communicate with the SMFA module and the car tells it to it does not move because it does not recognize it (you have to code)

in europe and spain specifically there are those who dream of a car like yours. I am 50 years or older They are legends here.

A greeting

[blackshark]

Up

[blackshark]

Up

[POBEP]

woodpecka

I am sure this was answered before, but I could not find it.


I have 2009 LCI E91 leather, non-sport, heated & lumbar support.

459	Seat Adjustm., Electr. W. Memory	Sitzverstellung, Elektr.mit Memory
488	Lumbar Support Driver/front Passenger	Lordosenstuetze Fahrer/beifahrer
494	Seat Heating F Driver/front Passenger	Sitzheizung Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer

I am looking at donor 2010 LCI E90 leather, sport, heated & lumbar support.

459	Seat Adjustm., Electr. W. Memory	Sitzverstellung, Elektr.mit Memory
481	Sport Seats F Driver/front Passenger	Sportsitze Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer
488	Lumbar Support Driver/front Passenger	Lordosenstuetze Fahrer/beifahrer
494	Seat Heating F Driver/front Passenger	Sitzheizung Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer

Question for community - would it be plug-and-play swap or I still need wiring, harness or coding?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by POBEP

woodpecka

I am sure this was answered before, but I could not find it.


I have 2009 LCI E91 leather, non-sport, heated & lumbar support.

459	Seat Adjustm., Electr. W. Memory	Sitzverstellung, Elektr.mit Memory
488	Lumbar Support Driver/front Passenger	Lordosenstuetze Fahrer/beifahrer
494	Seat Heating F Driver/front Passenger	Sitzheizung Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer

I am looking at donor 2010 LCI E90 leather, sport, heated & lumbar support.

459	Seat Adjustm., Electr. W. Memory	Sitzverstellung, Elektr.mit Memory
481	Sport Seats F Driver/front Passenger	Sportsitze Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer
488	Lumbar Support Driver/front Passenger	Lordosenstuetze Fahrer/beifahrer
494	Seat Heating F Driver/front Passenger	Sitzheizung Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer

Question for community - would it be plug-and-play swap or I still need wiring, harness or coding?

In your case, it's probably gonna be plug and play. Just remember to disconnect the battery before you unplug. With like specs and both LCI, they both probably have the headrest airbag wiring. Some pins were changed between Non-LCI and LCI IIRC, but you shouldn't have that issue.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

In your case, it's probably gonna be plug and play. Just remember to disconnect the battery before you unplug. With like specs and both LCI, they both probably have the headrest airbag wiring. Some pins were changed between Non-LCI and LCI IIRC, but you shouldn't have that issue.

bluewater328 - thanks, it was indeed plug-and-play, less missing driver seat belt lock - had to move it over from my old one.

Gotta clean and condition it

[POBEP]

The Sport Seats are super nice. My E91 feels like different (much better) car now

My replacement 2010 LCI sports seats were missing net bag.
I noticed it after the swap.

Word of advise
If you plan to transfer rear panel with net bag (P/N 52109166908) over to new seats - do it when both seats are out of the car.
Removing and then setting bottom panel clips with the seat installed in royal PITA.

Also, clips can (and probably should) stay in the panel during removal.
The panel can be removed with clips by pulling them out from seat frame using proper tools

[Scottycs]

Today I retrofitted a power seat (driver only) to my 2009 LCI 328i from 2006 325i. Was able to get the pigtail from old car and swap pins into the original connecter. The head rest was missing and I had to swap headrest and the wiring attached to it, it didn't appear the donor seat had this wiring.

No lights and the seat works perfectly! I saw talk that the K-Can had to be hooked up or the seat would stop working. I did not experience that, is that because the seat is from an 06? As of now, I am not planning to hook up K-Can.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by POBEP

The Sport Seats are super nice. My E91 feels like different (much better) car now

After a week of enjoyment, noticed that driver side lumbar support is losing air.
Passenger side holds pressure as expected.

Going to swap both switch and lordosis pad, hope it will be easy.

[Scottycs]

Just kidding, seats stopped working. Tapped the wires from the idrive and all is good now.

Originally Posted by Scottycs

Today I retrofitted a power seat (driver only) to my 2009 LCI 328i from 2006 325i. Was able to get the pigtail from old car and swap pins into the original connecter. The head rest was missing and I had to swap headrest and the wiring attached to it, it didn't appear the donor seat had this wiring.

No lights and the seat works perfectly! I saw talk that the K-Can had to be hooked up or the seat would stop working. I did not experience that, is that because the seat is from an 06? As of now, I am not planning to hook up K-Can.

[dcf_atl]

E90 power seat question -> Bolster power works all of the time but movement power is random.
First off, I have read a lot on this, and I really don’t think it’s the “sleep” thing because the power for the bolster motor works all of the time even when the seat movement power is not working.
OK so this weekend I retrofitted a pair of e90 power sport seats into an “older” BMW sedan. I wired constant power to the Red wires (twisted together) for the motor and the bolsters on each of the seats. Same on the brown grounds. I used the cigarette lighter power + ground.
The passenger side works perfectly. In fact, it doesn’t go to sleep and always works.
The driver’s seat movement functions however randomly do not work. But the bolster power (again all twisted together) always works. I thought it might be the “sleep” thing that people reference, but even when I unplug the power and plug it back in, it doesn’t work.
Please let me know your ideas/thoughts before I go and buy another driver’s seat.
Thanks!!!!

[dcf_atl]

Hi
I am on my 2nd drivers seat and the motor is only working intermittently (lumbar works all the time) - passenger seats is perfect
2 reds twisted with +
2 browns twisted with -
works perfectly for a few sec - but -then even when I unplug it, and plug it back in -- is doesn't usually work
tomorrow I have a 12->5v thingy coming and will try and power the k_can_h with it -- but the adapter has a space for a ground in and out -- do I just use the same ground as the 12 v power?
I bought a switch anticipating the time out -- but if plugin and unplugging the power doesn't work , I don't see how the switch would help
thanks you so much in advance

[Nickdot]

Could anyone potentially shed some light on the following that I haven't seen covered?

Upgrading from LCI Manual Sport Seats, to LCI Partial Electric Sport Seats with Heat.
There is no need for K_CAN, so I have run an additional power, ground, PWM signal to the JBE and the additional small gauge wire into the fusebox at X11001 position 10 - to each seat.

So my car-loom looks like so;




However, when the new seats arrived, there is a pin in pin 9 on both seat connectors - something my car-side loom does not have.
The seat connector looks like so;


I'm going to run this in properly, back to the fusebox - but does anyone know what fuses I'm needing to plumb in?
I have added fuses in 45/46 for what I believe is the seat heating modules (no seat modules on these seats).


I cannot find any information about this - most retrofits need the car-side connector re-pinning from 9 to 4, not an additional in 9.
Ideally I don't want to use tap connectors, I'm going to wire it in to the fusebox, as the car will be in pieces anyway.

Any advice would be great

[ptpending]

so you have three consumers in new seat
lumbar support
seat adjustment
seat heating main positive
seat heating ignition positive
they may require separate wires because they are have different main fuses or relay to enable in different situations (for example heating will be not working if battery has not enough charge)

[Nickdot]

Originally Posted by ptpending

so you have three consumers in new seat
lumbar support
seat adjustment
seat heating main positive
seat heating ignition positive
they may require separate wires because they are have different main fuses or relay to enable in different situations (for example heating will be not working if battery has not enough charge)

Yeah that's correct.
Lumbar - accounted for - pin 7 on the existing car loom.

Seat adjustment - unsure - at present I am planning on using the 4.0mm2 wire I ran to fuse 45/46 (driver/passenger) for both heat and adjustment, as the on-seat loom cable gauges are much smaller than that for the main positives.

Seat heating main positive - accounted for - part of new loom.

Seat heating ignition positive - accounted for - part of new loom.

What I'm struggling with is where to wire the additional (either pin 9 or 4 (pin 9 is heat, pin 4 adjustment) wire into in the fuse box. I can't see anything in any BMW documentation or diagram where there are 2 x high amperage feeds to the seat - the only references are "seat module/seat heating module" - nothing regarding purely seat adjustment.

What would be super helpful is if someone with an LCI with partial-electric seats could fire over a photo of their fusebox, that might point me in the right direction!




EDIT; Just to add - I've spotted another user earlier in this thread (page 11/12) in the same predicament - not knowing where to wire the additional pin to in the fusebox. I think he connected them together and used the one positive for both functions without an issue.
It's a 30A circuit, which should be more than enough for the motors + heat together.

Would be nice to do it the BMW way, but for lack of documentation, it's a bit difficult.

[E9XMTL]

Here is my situation:

Original seats : full electric non-sport seats with memory and heated but no lumbar /inflatable bolster adjustment

New seats: full electric sport seats with memory, heated, lumbar and with inflatable bolster adjustment.


Everything is working beside bolster and memory since the original seats didn't had those options. I have looked at both connector (car connector and seat connector) and the only missing wire is PIN 7 (Red/black wire).

What's needed to have the inflatable bolster adjustment to work???


Thanks!

[ptpending]

you need to
1. wire bolster to existing power to module
2. run additional wires from JBE to both seats to power bolster with separate fuses.

[Yoshi1127]

Originally Posted by Red Racer

BurtDiesel / 4EST...

The LED module I originally used started to give me issues. So, I went back and re-worked the solution. I started with a timed relay module...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3KCQZB...roduct_details

This allowed me to program the relay to turn on for 3 sec and turn off for 3 sec. I found that at 5 sec, then 4 sec intervals didn't re-activate the seat module. 3 sec seems to work continuously. It also gave me a higher amp rating which is where LED relay was failing.

Keep in mind this relay module is for 12v options and the seat only likes 5v. So, after the relay, I reduced the voltage to 5v by using a common Buck regulator set for 12v to 5v. There are many options out there... This is the one I picked.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Electric...758521&sr=8-17

Now the seat works continuously without any issues. Hope this helps.

hi can you tell/show me how the 2 K can wires no. 2 hi & no. 3 low in the plug were wired to the 5v regulator? Also is it 12v thats connected to no.10 & 11? Thanks

[Yoshi1127]

Do I connect the no.2 kcan to + & no.3 kcan low to the - that's coming from the 5v regulator?

[Red Racer]

yoshi1127 -
Take a look at this... It uploaded here...

Each timer can be programmed - meaning the Kcan timer is set to 3 - 4 secs per pulse (constant on mode) and the seat heater seat timer is set for 10 mins of heat them off mode (if you hit the trigger switch it starts another 10 min cycle). There is only one timer for the Kcan since the passenger seat doesn't have that computer and 2 timers for heat so they operate separately. Each have 30a feeds. run through the relays.

Very crude diagram - so don't laugh!

[shimstack]

Anyone seen this?

E91 with base (no power/heat) seats from factory. Previous owner installed power/heated M3 seats, and didn't complete the wiring. I added the heated seat switches, VO coded 494, and connected the K CAN bus wires to the driver's seat- I'll do the passenger in the next few days.

With the VO 494 coded and no K CAN connection the leds on the buttons would light up briefly and then turn off. No relay click, no heat on either side.

With the K CAN connected to the driver's side, the heater button lights up for 5-10 seconds, the relay clicks on and stays on unless I turn the seat heating off, but the leds blink on and off at ~5 second intervals. The seat heats, but not to full sunburn mode. The heat level is adjustable, and the seat positioning controls work as they should throughout a drive (they would stop working after 30sec or so without the K CAN connection).

The blinking lights are not accompanied by a relay click, and they don't blink at regular intervals- it could be 3 sec on, 7 off, or 6 on, 6 off- generally along intervals like these.

Also, the position adjustment is available whether the lights are on or off- it does not seem to be an intermittent K CAN connection. I can tug on the bundle of wires and shift my weight around in the seat without affecting whether the lights are on or off.

Searching leads me to:

1. Battery? it's getting weak, it cranks slower than last year on cold mornings. I do have some bulb warnings that aren't making sense.
2. K CAN wiring sensitivity? I spliced heavier gauge twisted wire between the factory wiring and a new connector at the seat, then back to lighter gauge wire at the connector- just stuff I had handy. It it super sensitive to this?
3. No K CAN connection at the passenger seat yet?

Thanks!