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      04-30-2019, 11:29 PM   #1
Kas5gd
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E92 LCI N52 Long cranks on cold start

Hello all,
I have a E92 LCI coupe with 122,000 miles
Within the last 2 months I've changed all coil packs, spark plugs (coil packs and plugs are Bosch), and installed a new battery (and coded it to the car).
Now recently my car has a long crank on cold starts (if the car sits for 6+ hours). It'll start just fine if I start the car within that time frame after a cold start. Car runs fine and has no codes.
I did some research online and people pointed me to battery (just replaced), coils and plugs (all replaced), essentric shaft sensor (I unplugged the wire harness to the sensor to check for oil and it's dry as a bone), fuel pump/filter/regulator, and injectors.
I don't smell any fuel from the engine bay so I'm assuming the injectors and rail aren't leaking.
I replaced the fuel pump and filter and still had the same problem the next day. I then replaced the regulator and still the issue is there.
I'm starting to think it's the starter, but when the car cranks, it sounds like good, strong cranks, not weak.
The car idles fine, no loss in power or performance, or anything like that. Other than replacing the starter and essentric shaft sensor, I'm completely lost. I feel as though I can handle replacing the starter (I've done all maintenance on my car myself thus far) but I head the essentric shaft sensor is a real pain.
If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!!
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      05-01-2019, 01:25 AM   #2
bluewater328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas5gd View Post
Hello all,
I have a E92 LCI coupe with 122,000 miles
Within the last 2 months I've changed all coil packs, spark plugs (coil packs and plugs are Bosch), and installed a new battery (and coded it to the car).
Now recently my car has a long crank on cold starts (if the car sits for 6+ hours). It'll start just fine if I start the car within that time frame after a cold start. Car runs fine and has no codes.
I did some research online and people pointed me to battery (just replaced), coils and plugs (all replaced), essentric shaft sensor (I unplugged the wire harness to the sensor to check for oil and it's dry as a bone), fuel pump/filter/regulator, and injectors.
I don't smell any fuel from the engine bay so I'm assuming the injectors and rail aren't leaking.
I replaced the fuel pump and filter and still had the same problem the next day. I then replaced the regulator and still the issue is there.
I'm starting to think it's the starter, but when the car cranks, it sounds like good, strong cranks, not weak.
The car idles fine, no loss in power or performance, or anything like that. Other than replacing the starter and essentric shaft sensor, I'm completely lost. I feel as though I can handle replacing the starter (I've done all maintenance on my car myself thus far) but I head the essentric shaft sensor is a real pain.
If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!!
Sounds like a starter. If you can remove the intake manifold, you can change a starter. Just have the right etorx sockets ready. For whatever reason, our starters don't sound like old GM dying starters, they get long and then just click, whirr, done.

I don't think it's the ESS, but if it was, you probably are seeing some codes start to pop up. Have you scanned with INPA/ISTA yet? ESS is under the valve cover, so consider changing that or the VC gasket set while you're under there. Some other small potentials, it really the scan should reveal the more complicated problems developing (if they are there).
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      05-01-2019, 02:02 AM   #3
Kas5gd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas5gd View Post
Hello all,
I have a E92 LCI coupe with 122,000 miles
Within the last 2 months I've changed all coil packs, spark plugs (coil packs and plugs are Bosch), and installed a new battery (and coded it to the car).
Now recently my car has a long crank on cold starts (if the car sits for 6+ hours). It'll start just fine if I start the car within that time frame after a cold start. Car runs fine and has no codes.
I did some research online and people pointed me to battery (just replaced), coils and plugs (all replaced), essentric shaft sensor (I unplugged the wire harness to the sensor to check for oil and it's dry as a bone), fuel pump/filter/regulator, and injectors.
I don't smell any fuel from the engine bay so I'm assuming the injectors and rail aren't leaking.
I replaced the fuel pump and filter and still had the same problem the next day. I then replaced the regulator and still the issue is there.
I'm starting to think it's the starter, but when the car cranks, it sounds like good, strong cranks, not weak.
The car idles fine, no loss in power or performance, or anything like that. Other than replacing the starter and essentric shaft sensor, I'm completely lost. I feel as though I can handle replacing the starter (I've done all maintenance on my car myself thus far) but I head the essentric shaft sensor is a real pain.
If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!!
Sounds like a starter. If you can remove the intake manifold, you can change a starter. Just have the right etorx sockets ready. For whatever reason, our starters don't sound like old GM dying starters, they get long and then just click, whirr, done.

I don't think it's the ESS, but if it was, you probably are seeing some codes start to pop up. Have you scanned with INPA/ISTA yet? ESS is under the valve cover, so consider changing that or the VC gasket set while you're under there. Some other small potentials, it really the scan should reveal the more complicated problems developing (if they are there).
I haven't scanned with INPA/ISTA yet, but I will probably do that this week. I really hope it's not the ESS. I can live with a starter needing replacement. Thank you for your input! I'll check codes on INPA and order a starter in the meantime. Couldn't hurt to replace since it's has 120K+ miles.

Would having the battery not coded correctly to the car cause this issue? I bought this vehicle used and the battery that came with the car was not original, but when I replaced the battery I made sure it had the correct CCA specs and verified while coding.
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      05-01-2019, 05:13 AM   #4
bluewater328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas5gd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas5gd View Post
Hello all,
I have a E92 LCI coupe with 122,000 miles
Within the last 2 months I've changed all coil packs, spark plugs (coil packs and plugs are Bosch), and installed a new battery (and coded it to the car).
Now recently my car has a long crank on cold starts (if the car sits for 6+ hours). It'll start just fine if I start the car within that time frame after a cold start. Car runs fine and has no codes.
I did some research online and people pointed me to battery (just replaced), coils and plugs (all replaced), essentric shaft sensor (I unplugged the wire harness to the sensor to check for oil and it's dry as a bone), fuel pump/filter/regulator, and injectors.
I don't smell any fuel from the engine bay so I'm assuming the injectors and rail aren't leaking.
I replaced the fuel pump and filter and still had the same problem the next day. I then replaced the regulator and still the issue is there.
I'm starting to think it's the starter, but when the car cranks, it sounds like good, strong cranks, not weak.
The car idles fine, no loss in power or performance, or anything like that. Other than replacing the starter and essentric shaft sensor, I'm completely lost. I feel as though I can handle replacing the starter (I've done all maintenance on my car myself thus far) but I head the essentric shaft sensor is a real pain.
If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!!
Sounds like a starter. If you can remove the intake manifold, you can change a starter. Just have the right etorx sockets ready. For whatever reason, our starters don't sound like old GM dying starters, they get long and then just click, whirr, done.

I don't think it's the ESS, but if it was, you probably are seeing some codes start to pop up. Have you scanned with INPA/ISTA yet? ESS is under the valve cover, so consider changing that or the VC gasket set while you're under there. Some other small potentials, it really the scan should reveal the more complicated problems developing (if they are there).
I haven't scanned with INPA/ISTA yet, but I will probably do that this week. I really hope it's not the ESS. I can live with a starter needing replacement. Thank you for your input! I'll check codes on INPA and order a starter in the meantime. Couldn't hurt to replace since it's has 120K+ miles.

Would having the battery not coded correctly to the car cause this issue? I bought this vehicle used and the battery that came with the car was not original, but when I replaced the battery I made sure it had the correct CCA specs and verified while coding.
Battery not being coded right usually just means it doesn't last as long — charging rate won't correspond to battery degrading condition. Doubt that it would be that if you said you got it fairly recently. But if you're reading the battery charge and it's above 12.6, that's probably not it.
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      05-01-2019, 01:28 PM   #5
Kas5gd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas5gd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas5gd View Post
Hello all,
I have a E92 LCI coupe with 122,000 miles
Within the last 2 months I've changed all coil packs, spark plugs (coil packs and plugs are Bosch), and installed a new battery (and coded it to the car).
Now recently my car has a long crank on cold starts (if the car sits for 6+ hours). It'll start just fine if I start the car within that time frame after a cold start. Car runs fine and has no codes.
I did some research online and people pointed me to battery (just replaced), coils and plugs (all replaced), essentric shaft sensor (I unplugged the wire harness to the sensor to check for oil and it's dry as a bone), fuel pump/filter/regulator, and injectors.
I don't smell any fuel from the engine bay so I'm assuming the injectors and rail aren't leaking.
I replaced the fuel pump and filter and still had the same problem the next day. I then replaced the regulator and still the issue is there.
I'm starting to think it's the starter, but when the car cranks, it sounds like good, strong cranks, not weak.
The car idles fine, no loss in power or performance, or anything like that. Other than replacing the starter and essentric shaft sensor, I'm completely lost. I feel as though I can handle replacing the starter (I've done all maintenance on my car myself thus far) but I head the essentric shaft sensor is a real pain.
If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Thank you!!
Sounds like a starter. If you can remove the intake manifold, you can change a starter. Just have the right etorx sockets ready. For whatever reason, our starters don't sound like old GM dying starters, they get long and then just click, whirr, done.

I don't think it's the ESS, but if it was, you probably are seeing some codes start to pop up. Have you scanned with INPA/ISTA yet? ESS is under the valve cover, so consider changing that or the VC gasket set while you're under there. Some other small potentials, it really the scan should reveal the more complicated problems developing (if they are there).
I haven't scanned with INPA/ISTA yet, but I will probably do that this week. I really hope it's not the ESS. I can live with a starter needing replacement. Thank you for your input! I'll check codes on INPA and order a starter in the meantime. Couldn't hurt to replace since it's has 120K+ miles.

Would having the battery not coded correctly to the car cause this issue? I bought this vehicle used and the battery that came with the car was not original, but when I replaced the battery I made sure it had the correct CCA specs and verified while coding.
Battery not being coded right usually just means it doesn't last as long — charging rate won't correspond to battery degrading condition. Doubt that it would be that if you said you got it fairly recently. But if you're reading the battery charge and it's above 12.6, that's probably not it.
Gotcha. I just put a new battery in less than 2 months ago, but who knows, could be a faulty battery. I'm hoping pulling codes will shed some light and swapping the starter. 🤞🏽 thank you for your help
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