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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive



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      12-26-2012, 09:07 AM   #67
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Gentlemen, I installed this tiny sub over the weekend. I just used high level input as the sub had the inputs for it. Modified the enclosure and resealed it so I could mount it to the back of the seat, and it sounds great! I have the premium sound with the idrive. Definitely rounds out the system, all passengers raved.

If anyone would like my tips/lessons learned on modifying the sub for mounting it on the back of the seat so that it is still sealed and the seat folds well please PM me.

Thanks for the great DIY!
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      12-27-2012, 11:09 PM   #68
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Thanks a ton dude
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      01-07-2013, 11:31 PM   #69
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Hate to do this considering the age of this thread. But me and my buddies have been trying to hook up a basslink to my 08 e92 335i w/ logic.. Everything works but cant find the friggin remote wire. I everything single DIY in regards to remote wire; thin black wire (cant find), power wire (dam sub turns on as soon as i plug it in). So I came to the conclusion, must be the power wire but does it really turn off after 5 minutes and why does it power on as soon as all the wires are plugged in. Really just want to hook up this system without running any wires to the front etx.... So only option is to use the LVT if so, where do you hook the trigger wire too (green) on the LVT or run it to the power wire like it says on a majority including this one and hope it shuts off after five minutes. But still cant figure out why it would power the sub on as soon as i connect the sub. Help would be greatly appreciated been trying to figure this dam thing out for three days. thank you!
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      01-13-2013, 02:10 PM   #70
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Thanks! nice write up!
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      01-17-2013, 11:29 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yikp333 View Post
Hate to do this considering the age of this thread. But me and my buddies have been trying to hook up a basslink to my 08 e92 335i w/ logic.. Everything works but cant find the friggin remote wire. I everything single DIY in regards to remote wire; thin black wire (cant find), power wire (dam sub turns on as soon as i plug it in). So I came to the conclusion, must be the power wire but does it really turn off after 5 minutes and why does it power on as soon as all the wires are plugged in. Really just want to hook up this system without running any wires to the front etx.... So only option is to use the LVT if so, where do you hook the trigger wire too (green) on the LVT or run it to the power wire like it says on a majority including this one and hope it shuts off after five minutes. But still cant figure out why it would power the sub on as soon as i connect the sub. Help would be greatly appreciated been trying to figure this dam thing out for three days. thank you!
Did you read in post #1 about the LVT? OP tapped a positive speaker output to simulate a remote wire. Tough to parse your question...
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      08-09-2013, 05:42 PM   #72
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Thanks for the DIY

Here is my install. I did it exactly except I ran a wire from the fuse box for the remote power, I got a LVT but it just wouldn't work

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      04-01-2014, 08:08 PM   #73
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someone needs to make a diy video for this
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      04-03-2014, 03:29 PM   #74
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i cant get my amp to turn on??


its hooked up to the battery terminal and everything.....
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      04-03-2014, 10:01 PM   #75
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nvm bad ground...
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      02-19-2015, 04:06 AM   #76
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Sorry to necro this thread, but thanks OP for the post really helped me.

My Jap import is a little different, was not easy to access the amp, but was actually really easy to remove the trim and access the loom that way.

I will add that I find those splice clip things to be completely rubbish, tried them first but it was just no good. In the end, I stripped a section of wire and soldered it properly - worked first go.

Regarding the remote wire, LVT worked fine for me - but I also have an OEM boot/trunk cigarette lighter which worked perfectly too. Prefer the LVT though as it turns the amp on with the stereo as opposed to having to actually start the car.

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      03-09-2016, 03:19 PM   #77
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Stinger SGN141 Premium Line Out Converter with Remote Out

i just ordered this from amazon. i was browsing for the items OP posted since they aren't on car domain and happened upon this and figured i would give it a shot since it is a combo of the two parts. once they arrive and i get them installed i'll post about it.
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      10-07-2016, 07:20 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohh EPiC FAiL View Post
Stinger SGN141 Premium Line Out Converter with Remote Out

i just ordered this from amazon. i was browsing for the items OP posted since they aren't on car domain and happened upon this and figured i would give it a shot since it is a combo of the two parts. once they arrive and i get them installed i'll post about it.
Let us know how you get on, as I have been looking for ideas on how to install my sub/amp in the boot of my E91. I know I have the professional H/U, but doubt I have an amp for the underseat subs as the door speakers are only the 4" jobs.
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      03-23-2017, 10:03 AM   #79
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If I tap into the woofer wires from the amp in the rear to connect to my subwoofer amp using a line out converter will the "bass" option in the stock head units equalizer affect how loud my sub will play? Or will that strictly be determined my by gain setting on the amplifier powering the sub?
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      05-01-2017, 11:55 PM   #80
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Is there anything different that you would have to do if you dont have Idrive?
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      06-04-2018, 09:36 AM   #81
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Help!!! I can't get the wiring harness to go back into the stock amp. Its so hard like it doesn't want to go in. I tried reversing the procedure of taking it out but it doesn't seen like it wants to go in. Any help?!
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      06-04-2018, 11:40 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean_thao View Post
Help!!! I can't get the wiring harness to go back into the stock amp. Its so hard like it doesn't want to go in. I tried reversing the procedure of taking it out but it doesn't seen like it wants to go in. Any help?!
it should slide back in easily. You just need to line it up and then slide the locking bracket back and it pushes it back in.

if it doesnt want to go back in, inspect the harness and amp pins to make sure nothing is bent
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      06-04-2018, 05:17 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.phuOnger? View Post
it should slide back in easily. You just need to line it up and then slide the locking bracket back and it pushes it back in.

if it doesnt want to go back in, inspect the harness and amp pins to make sure nothing is bent
Everything looks fine and not bent. It still doesnt want to go in. I'm stumped.
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      06-04-2018, 05:22 PM   #84
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If I remembered correctly, the harness doesnt slide into two pieces does it? Its stays as one solid rectangle piece. I see that there's like two little plaatic tabs but not sure if those are supposed to be pressed
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      07-20-2018, 03:47 PM   #85
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I wonders why can’t we just use the stock input wires from the stock sub and connect those to our RCA for the aftermarket amp ? Assuming the stock amp already have the low pass filter built in to our stock sub .
So no need of getting the LOC ?

Last edited by Le7316; 07-20-2018 at 03:55 PM..
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      07-20-2018, 06:24 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Le7316 View Post
I wonders why can’t we just use the stock input wires from the stock sub and connect those to our RCA for the aftermarket amp ? Assuming the stock amp already have the low pass filter built in to our stock sub .
So no need of getting the LOC ?
If you have the Logic 7/Top Hi-Fi system (I believe all 2007 and 2008 335i's came standard with) then you don't have line level inputs feeding the amplifier. The Logic 7 system uses the MOST fiber optic system to feed the factory amplifier. Your options are:
1. Grab high level after the amplifier (which is 70 watts per channel, EQ'd and low pass filtered)
2. Code car to Hi-Fi/676 and run new harness from behind head unit to rear of car. This gives you front and rear stereo differential balanced line-level outputs that are not filtered or EQ'd.
3. Buy a MOST D/A converter compatible with your car, like the MoBridge DA2.
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      08-03-2018, 01:21 AM   #87
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I used the PAC LP7-2 LOC. Everything works, but bass is very very low. I have a Alpine MRP-M500 and JL 12W6v2. It was taken out of my old wrx and was working well.

Even with the with the gain and bass boost set to max, volume is very low. Messed with the LOC settings and nothing seemed to work. Wonder if i have a faulty LOC?
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      04-18-2019, 06:56 AM   #88
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Cool DIY Video

I made a short DIY video explaining how I personally installed my system.

Hopefully it helps!

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