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What bushes should I change with suspension upgrade
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04-01-2016, 09:29 AM | #1 |
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What bushes should I change with suspension upgrade
I'm looking to upgrade my aging but clean 2006 E90 330i M-Sport (83k miles) suspension by replacing dampers and springs with a Bilstein Eibach B12 Pro-Kit.
What bushes should I also be looking to replace? I'm looking at replacement Powerflex bushes. I've searched the web and forum but no clear answers. |
04-01-2016, 09:58 AM | #2 |
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Get your car up on a ramp and check for flex in the bushes (MOT style). Replace any with lots of play and keep the rest (if it ain't broke, don't fix it).
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04-02-2016, 12:53 AM | #3 |
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Drives: E90 M3 LCI Jerez Black
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When i did a suspension refresh on my e46, i used Powerflex front to back. If no Powerflex version available, OEM bushes were used.
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04-02-2016, 05:59 AM | #4 |
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My personal view, is stick to OEM and do every bush on the car.
If an OEM upgrade is available (eg from the M3) then use those. I've done the upgraded/stiffened bushes over the years, and come to realise it just ruins the car. Unless its a weekend toy/race car etc then its just not worth it. Brand new OEM bushings will make a huge difference either way, as while the old ones might look fine, after 90k they'll be well worn. The E90 also uses balljoints/rose joints at a few of the bushing positions, changing these for poly would be a downgrade. On the front, use M3 lower control arms, giving you the improved geometry and stiffer bushings. New top mounts, drop links and TRE's while your there. On the rear, you can use M3 upper control arms, and rebush the lower arms (or replace). You'll also want to fit M3 rear subframe bushes. Part numbers for the M3 bits are all well covered. |
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04-03-2016, 05:34 AM | #5 |
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If you do put m3 bits on, ditch your runflats if you have them. Them and the bushes makes it horrid.
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04-03-2016, 04:46 PM | #7 |
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I've been unable to get a full list of M3 parts, but found suitable refresh bush sets online priced at around £1200. When you add labor + B12 kit this becomes an expensive project.
I will replace the B12 suspension and ask the garage to check bushes as they go. I will later add a Eibach swing bar and most likely have the control arms replaced and bushings changed at this point. Last edited by BMW-330i; 04-04-2016 at 02:25 AM.. |
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04-04-2016, 03:30 AM | #8 |
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I may go this route also.. Wow was not expecting it to cost that much.. I may buy b12 and get them to check for wear also seems the best bet. My car is now on 103k on the standard m sport suspension so it feels a little tired now unfortunately
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04-04-2016, 10:06 AM | #9 |
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I've added the following items to my list;
front upper strut mounts (also known as a guide support), 31306775098 A. rear upper-top shock mounts, 33506771737 B. rear upper-middle shock mounts, 33506767010 C. rear upper-bottom shock mounts, 33506771738 D. rear upper supporting cup, 33526764418 (sits over bumpstop) rear lower shock mount (installs on spring arm), 33526768544 Seems logical to refreshen these directly linked items. The bushes and control arms will come later. |
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04-05-2016, 03:12 AM | #10 | |
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04-05-2016, 05:02 AM | #12 |
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I found this thread useful when reading up on this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1090849 I'll be changing the parts mentioned above, B12 kit and m3 subframe bushes at once. Luckily the garage I use are pretty good and I trust them to look and replace any other bushes they see fit (maybe hub carrier and/or diff bushes). Then I will review and possibly then m3 arms and additional bushes. |
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04-07-2016, 04:31 PM | #13 |
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1200 sounds a lot.
The M3 bits on the front end cost around £200 if you buy them from a TRW directly, i used rexbo.eu, but they're often on amazon as well. JTC1423/JTC1424/JTC1426/JTC1427 are the four front arms. Lemforder top mounts are £25 each, part number 31211 01 Drop links are 35364 01 and 35365 01, about £20 each TRE's are 29932 02 and 29930 02, about £28 each so for the TRE's/Droplinks/Topmounts your probably another £150 or so for decent lemforder bits so for £350 (plus the suspension kit) your whole front end is brand new. The top mounts are a must, and tbh you might as well do the whole thing and sort it all out in one go. Rear is more involved as many bushes are pressed into the subframe or uprights, but the M3 parts are: JTC1428/JTC1429/JTC1430/JTC1431, again about £200 for those. The M3 rear subframe bushes are dealer only, part numbers are 33312283382 and 33312283383, you need two of each, and they're about £40 each from leebman24. |
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04-08-2016, 01:23 AM | #14 |
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Had my front bushes checked by TWG, was told only the radius control arm bushes need changing.
I've bought the Powerflex black series as I picked up a pair of them for £50. Waiting for them to be fitted on the 19th so will let you know how they feel Expecting them to be extremely firm and an increase in road noise (from what others say), also TWG said they're harder to fit as they're so much more stiff than regular bushes. |
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04-08-2016, 05:23 AM | #15 |
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the issue with the front arms on these cars is they come complete with the balljoint.
the bush wears, and sure you can replace it, but so does the balljoint, and the only way to fix that is a new arm. When a new M3 arm is £50, it seems a waste of time to me to spend £50 on a pair of bushes, and then pay a garages time to press the bush out and press the new bush back in. You might as well just buy the new M3 arm and fit it, gaining yourself a new, tight, balljoint, the upgraded M3 spec bushing, and the upgraded M3 geometry all at once. Replacing the bush will end up costing just as much, but leaves you with crappy standard geo and a 10 year old balljoint thats just waiting to fail. |
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04-08-2016, 07:36 AM | #16 | |
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If you have a half decent set of tools, some axle stands and a jack, you can do it yourself (I did... took me ages though, like!) |
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