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      08-04-2019, 10:53 PM   #1
matamua
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Battery & FRM questions...

So, I bought a wheel with paddles/BMS harness a while back and really want to put it on my car. I have read a few threads recently where just disconnecting the battery (which it seems I've got to do to swap the airbag and not have it deploy while I'm working) can result in a fried FRM module, obviously not ideal.

What's the best way to prevent that, or the best practice for disconnecting the battery other than negative off first/reconnected last?

My car is an 07 e93 335i.

Thanks!
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      08-05-2019, 01:59 PM   #2
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Not sure there is a way to prevent it, and you are out of the (extended) warranty period (I had mine done at 110K). But one thing I learned is, if your FRM blows you can actually get it fixed for around $300.
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      08-05-2019, 02:16 PM   #3
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You can get it fixed for around $90+ shipping if it does go bad. One method I've been using is to open the trunk stick a rag in the bottom latch to prevent it from locking, lock the car and keep the key out of range, wait 20 mins for the car to sleep then disconnect the battery. Not sure if it actually works as I've only tried it once but it's worth a try
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      08-05-2019, 02:26 PM   #4
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Warranty is ten years or 125,000 miles. Mine is going to the dealer tomorrow for it, I have a 2011 E90 with 106,000 miles.
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      08-06-2019, 01:13 AM   #5
matamua
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Thanks everyone.

Any shop guys/techs have an opinion? Jeff@TopGearSolutions I've seen you post on this issue. How do you get around it in the shop?
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      08-10-2019, 02:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian3924 View Post
You can get it fixed for around $90+ shipping if it does go bad. One method I've been using is to open the trunk stick a rag in the bottom latch to prevent it from locking, lock the car and keep the key out of range, wait 20 mins for the car to sleep then disconnect the battery. Not sure if it actually works as I've only tried it once but it's worth a try
@ian3924

Where did you see it for $90?
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      08-10-2019, 04:00 PM   #7
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Is your ride 03/07 or earlier ?
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      08-10-2019, 05:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Bean_Bun View Post
Is your ride 03/07 or earlier ?
Nope. 7/07
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      08-10-2019, 05:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matamua View Post
@ian3924

Where did you see it for $90?
Check Ebay for "FRM Repair" you would have to remove the frm and ship it out to the person. Luckily one of the people were only a few miles away and I brought it to him he did it in 15 minutes. I just noticed you have an 07 so as far as I know this is only a problem with FRM3 which i dont believe is in your car so you might not even have to worry, I could be wrong though.
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      08-12-2019, 09:29 AM   #10
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Update: Mine was replaced under the extended warranty. Invoice was $858.00, I paid $0.00. But they flashed me back to stock and I lost all my lighting coding. SO i had to flash back to MHD E50 in the parking lot and do coding with carly all over again.
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      08-12-2019, 09:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinscrolled View Post
Update: Mine was replaced under the extended warranty. Invoice was $858.00, I paid $0.00. But they flashed me back to stock and I lost all my lighting coding. SO i had to flash back to MHD E50 in the parking lot and do coding with carly all over again.
Lame!
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      08-12-2019, 09:48 AM   #12
matamua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian3924 View Post
You can get it fixed for around $90+ shipping if it does go bad. One method I've been using is to open the trunk stick a rag in the bottom latch to prevent it from locking, lock the car and keep the key out of range, wait 20 mins for the car to sleep then disconnect the battery. Not sure if it actually works as I've only tried it once but it's worth a try
From what I've read, it looks like this is because the FRM is sensitive to voltage fluctuations. As a result, I did my best to minimize rocking the negative terminal on and off the post with the thought being intermittent contact caused by rocking would generate those fluctuations.

I loosened it up all the way, pulled it straight up, put some a 1 inch piece foam rubber in between them to make sure they weren't conducting and when I put it back on, I put it straight down. Not sure if that makes a difference, but it worked for me.
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