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      10-07-2017, 03:55 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by vtl
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Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Tried to PM Kent but his message bank is full so I decided to go down the M3 option. I bought a M3 diff (3.15 ratio) with 63,000kms, half shafts and tailshaft for $2,700. I will have to buy all of the bolts for the half shafts and tailshaft and get the tailshaft modified to suit. I will get a 3.45 gear set installed as well.
Good work on sourcing the bits, I would make sure to inspect the propshaft as the CV joint in mine was shattered from an impact. Luckily replaceable but set me back $300. I would be very careful of who builds the driveshaft. A lot of places just cut up the propshaft in the middle and butt weld it together which is shit. The guy i used cut off the flanges from the parts and machined them on the lathe so the flanges fit inside of the propshaft tubing, locating it accurately and ensuring minimal runout and maximum strength. I used Knox Driveshaft services which is a guy who works at home in his garage, highly recommend his work.

There was a fair amount of special tools I needed to press out the axles and pull the M3 ones into my hubs, wasn't cheap but very happy with the retrofit overall.


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Originally Posted by donR View Post
I looked into this issue also and Mike certainly knows his stuff and whilst the friction type LSDs are arguably better in some circumstances there are some other issues to consider.

What he did mention to me was a little bit of left foot braking (just a tap) sorts out the wheel traction issue in the helical LSD when one wheel lifts and tightens the LSD.

Now have you ever tried left foot braking on an off camber road mid corner with high gs

Then I thought I believe the 335i has an electronic diff lock (EDL) which uses the ABS to brake the spinning wheel. Kind of like automatic left foot braking.

So on those rare occasions when the inner wheel lifts it should be sorted by the EDL. So maybe the helical LSD can work well with the EDL in these situations.

I have not tested the theory as yet but perhaps someone out there could try.

And with an M-Factory helical LSD had for $850AUS on special I think its a no brainer for most.
The eDiff is ineffective and will not help, its the whole reason why we get aftermarket LSDs in the first place. I found the ediff only really works when the road is fully wet and youre under 50kph. The brakes simply do not have enough power to control the rear wheels.

With the stock suspension and most coilovers available for the e8x/e9x theyre way too soft and the rear wheels unload all the time. You don't need to lift the wheel off the ground for the inside wheel to spin. Torquey engine and soft suspension will unload the wheels under cornering a lot, especially in mountain roads.

I have found with a Quaife fitted to a 335i with ST X coilovers the wheels unloaded a LOT. Would feel great but then whenever the wheels unloaded it just behaved like an open diff. Felt hard to predict. On another car with Ohlins R&T the car had 6/12K springs which are quite a bit stiffer than most street coilovers for BMWs. This setup controlled the body roll very well and the quaife worked very well and was a lot more predictable transitioning into oversteer. But really its a bit of a catch22, people want a helical because its great for a daily but unless you have a stiff setup the helical doesn't work that great.
Not to deviate from the thread topic but I have to ask... in this case where I have a standard diff on my pre LCI and have factory sport suspension, what's the suggestions for coilovers / shock & spring setup for spirited street and daily driving without compromising too much on comfort? I think @ASN had a thread about initial harshness then softness of the sport suspension.
Ive got M sport suspension and im about to put coilovers on the car. They come with 6/12k springs just how much stiffer than M sport is that in real terms?
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      10-08-2017, 04:16 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Shane, I agree that ECS shipping costs are high but the difference in overall cost with FCP euro is nothing. The cost of the same parts through FCP euro is $373.07AU compared to $372AU from ECS. Shipping at ECS is $71.84US compared to FCP euro at $43.25US. Parts costs were $279.33AU at ECS and $317.76AU at FCP euro.
FYI ECS has zero warranty on OEM parts. FCP has a lifetime warranty on everything, and you can return anything for a refund, even if its used (You can even return used engine oil, no joke)

FCP has great customer service and stuff usually only takes 1 week to arrive. I would highly recommend them and would be totally worth the $1.07 in your case
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      10-09-2017, 04:35 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by vtl View Post
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Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Shane, I agree that ECS shipping costs are high but the difference in overall cost with FCP euro is nothing. The cost of the same parts through FCP euro is $373.07AU compared to $372AU from ECS. Shipping at ECS is $71.84US compared to FCP euro at $43.25US. Parts costs were $279.33AU at ECS and $317.76AU at FCP euro.
FYI ECS has zero warranty on OEM parts. FCP has a lifetime warranty on everything, and you can return anything for a refund, even if its used (You can even return used engine oil, no joke)

FCP has great customer service and stuff usually only takes 1 week to arrive. I would highly recommend them and would be totally worth the $1.07 in your case
+1 on FCP Euro. I think it's even worth paying 10% extra for the peace-of-mind warranty / return policy.
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      10-16-2017, 01:29 AM   #26
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Received the M3 diff, axles and propshaft today. Diff cover has got damaged in transit so I sent a photo of the damaged diff to ASV Euro Auto Parts. They immediately responded and are sending me a replacement diff tomorrow.

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      10-16-2017, 03:45 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Received the M3 diff, axles and propshaft today. Diff cover has got damaged in transit so I sent a photo of the damaged diff to ASV Euro Auto Parts. They immediately responded and are sending me a replacement diff tomorrow.

Attachment 1706256
Ouch .. how the hell did they manage to bust that ??
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      10-16-2017, 06:02 AM   #28
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Ouch .. how the hell did they manage to bust that ??
Not sure Socks but it was rolling around unrestrained in the back of a ute when it arrived.
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      10-16-2017, 06:03 AM   #29
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No biggie really but yeah glad they're sending you a replacement!

Do you have to send that one back?!?
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      10-16-2017, 04:15 PM   #30
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No biggie really but yeah glad they're sending you a replacement!

Do you have to send that one back?!?
Yes Shane. They are bringing the replacement diff out today and taking the damaged one back. I could have broken the damaged fin off and then ground and smoothed what remained so it looked ok but if they are willing to replace it why not. I just hope the replacement gets here without damage.

Last edited by Coupes33; 10-16-2017 at 06:27 PM.
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      10-17-2017, 12:28 AM   #31
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Good work on sourcing the bits! I'd inspect the CV joint on the propshaft for damage, i'd pop off the cover and check the cage hasnt been in a big hit like mine was.

Also check the axle splines and threads for damage. One of mine got mushroomed from idiots at the driveshaft shop damaging it when pressing them out of the hubs. Of course they didn't tell me about it...
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      10-17-2017, 02:57 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Good work on sourcing the bits! I'd inspect the CV joint on the propshaft for damage, i'd pop off the cover and check the cage hasnt been in a big hit like mine was.

Also check the axle splines and threads for damage. One of mine got mushroomed from idiots at the driveshaft shop damaging it when pressing them out of the hubs. Of course they didn't tell me about it...
I will give the propshaft and axles a good clean and inspection tomorrow. The replacement M3 diff will also turn up tomorrow and if this one is ok, I will take it to Diff Lab for refurb and a new 3.45 gear set. The car that the diff is out of has a build date 01/2009. Once, it arrives, I will check out the colour on the flange so I can work out what bolts or washers are required to bolt the propshaft to the diff. Would I be correct Vince in assuming the location of the CV joint on the M3 propshaft would be the same as the 335 propshaft from the centreline of the axles. I read in a thread somewhere that the transmission ends are different so once again, I assume it is only this end that requires changing once the required length is determined.
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      10-17-2017, 08:17 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
I will give the propshaft and axles a good clean and inspection tomorrow. The replacement M3 diff will also turn up tomorrow and if this one is ok, I will take it to Diff Lab for refurb and a new 3.45 gear set. The car that the diff is out of has a build date 01/2009. Once, it arrives, I will check out the colour on the flange so I can work out what bolts or washers are required to bolt the propshaft to the diff. Would I be correct Vince in assuming the location of the CV joint on the M3 propshaft would be the same as the 335 propshaft from the centreline of the axles. I read in a thread somewhere that the transmission ends are different so once again, I assume it is only this end that requires changing once the required length is determined.
When I first discovered the coloured markings I assumed it was very important and i bought the very expensive washer (was $18 and took 4 weeks to arrive from Germany). Unfortunately as I bought the part almost a year before I did the actual install I lost it and never found it. I installed the diff anyway with the intention of installing the washer if i evre found it or sourced another one. Turns out my driveline has no vibration or humming noises so I didn't bother.

Yes from the centre bearing -> diff the 335i should be the same as the M3. The transmission side is a different length due to you being Auto, also the flex disc on the M3 is larger so you'll need to customize the transmission side to match your Auto. Best idea is to fit and measure. You should read my diff thread and come up with a very detailed drawings for the propshaft so theres no fuckups.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=52
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      10-17-2017, 05:23 PM   #34
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With a new gearset coupes the original balance mark will become redundant anyway, as vince said dont worry about it..

I have a very minor humm at 80 km/h I'm yet to install the special counterbalance bolts though
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      10-18-2017, 01:05 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
With a new gearset coupes the original balance mark will become redundant anyway, as vince said dont worry about it..

I have a very minor humm at 80 km/h I'm yet to install the special counterbalance bolts though
I received the replacement diff this afternoon. It has a white mark on the flange which I believe doesn't need any counterbalance bolts.

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      10-18-2017, 06:21 AM   #36
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Good company to do a 24hr turn around.
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      10-20-2017, 11:10 PM   #37
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Good company to do a 24hr turn around.
Happy so far with their service. Although, I have an issue with the thread on one of the axles. An old nut came on one axle and it screws on and off with no issue. But it will not screw onto the other axle. There is no obvious damage with the thread and nothing to indicate the end of the shaft has been bashed to slightly squash the threads. At present, I am more focussed on the replacement of the turbos than working on the rear end parts. How is your Ford rear end going Brule? Have you received the tailshaft as yet?
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      10-21-2017, 03:49 AM   #38
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Just trying to get one made by someone has been hard.

I got all the measurements and sent them to Diff technics in Australia.
After initial contact he didnít reply for 3 weeks. A few days ago I contacted the dss and told them Iím sick of waiting for Diff technics. Diff technics are Australiaís biggest supplier of dss products in Australia.

Anyway Iím out working remote and dss canít use ad eng billet piece made to fit trans so I need another measurement of the rubber flange on the trans to get the drive shaft.

Meanwhile ad eng doesnít answer emails or phone calls the past two weeks.

When Iím back Iím going to see him.
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      10-21-2017, 05:19 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brule View Post
Just trying to get one made by someone has been hard.

I got all the measurements and sent them to Diff technics in Australia.
After initial contact he didnít reply for 3 weeks. A few days ago I contacted the dss and told them Iím sick of waiting for Diff technics. Diff technics are Australiaís biggest supplier of dss products in Australia.

Anyway Iím out working remote and dss canít use ad eng billet piece made to fit trans so I need another measurement of the rubber flange on the trans to get the drive shaft.

Meanwhile ad eng doesnít answer emails or phone calls the past two weeks.

When Iím back Iím going to see him.
You have had plenty of issues getting the parts for your rear end modifications Brule. You certainly have more patience than I would have.
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      10-21-2017, 06:04 AM   #40
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Zero patience. But zero time too
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      10-22-2017, 10:46 PM   #41
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ken, what's the 3.46 gearset costing fitted?

I think this might be the option I might go down, I only have 5 spare axles left. haha
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      10-23-2017, 02:13 AM   #42
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ken, what's the 3.46 gearset costing fitted?

I think this might be the option I might go down, I only have 5 spare axles left. haha
I will let you know when I get a firm quote from Diff Lab. Mike gave me a quote of $4,305 for strip, new 3.45 gear set, new bearings and seals, E36 M3 LSD centre which he says is the best BMW LSD centre available and far better than the E90/92 LSD centre plus rebuild.
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      10-23-2017, 04:51 AM   #43
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I have found a problem with the long axle now. The nut binds on the thread after a 1/4 of a turn. The same nut spins on the thread of the short axle without an issue. I measured both threads with a electronic vernier calipers and found that the first 10mm is a larger diameter than the remainder of the thread and the thread on the other axle. Obviously, it has been mushroomed slightly in pressing the axle out of the hub. ASV Euro Auto Parts agreed to replace it but they found the only spare they have is damaged the same. They asked if I can get the thread fixed and they will give me some sort of refund. Does anyone in Brisbane know of any engineering shop that could do this?

The first 2 photos are the good short axle with the measurements taken approximately 5mm and 20mm in from the end.
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These 2 photos are the damaged long axle with the slightly mushroomed end.
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These next 2 photos show the issue I have better using the thread gauge. The first photo is the good axle and the second the damaged one.

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Last edited by Coupes33; 10-23-2017 at 05:23 AM.
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      10-23-2017, 04:11 PM   #44
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Just remove the first few threads with a file or grinder. You only need the last 4 or so threads.
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