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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DCT Diaries::_ink's build_::
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06-29-2016, 11:10 PM | #199 | |
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Will most likely get expensive wheels when I have a proper M car. I figured 335 isn't special enough to have good wheels just yet |
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06-30-2016, 11:07 AM | #200 | |||
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06-30-2016, 07:42 PM | #201 |
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06-30-2016, 08:27 PM | #202 |
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06-30-2016, 08:38 PM | #203 |
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can you post a straight on view from the rear. id like to see the diffuser, how it fits. where did you buy it from? I need one to fit my quads =D
car looks great! |
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07-01-2016, 08:31 PM | #204 | |
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07-01-2016, 10:56 PM | #205 |
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Great result Ian. 1/4 times should be similar or better than mine. You will have to get out to strip and give it a go.
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07-03-2016, 06:00 PM | #207 | |
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07-05-2016, 06:03 AM | #208 |
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Thanks guys
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07-05-2016, 11:45 PM | #209 |
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Out of curiosity Ian , I did a modification/power comparison between our cars. Some of the information on yours I could not find but obviously with the PI, you can get 420+ rwkw by installing a Stage 3 LPFP and running 100% E85 while I am at the limit with mine. With the power numbers, there is always variances in comparisons due to weather conditions and different dynometers (Dyno Dynamics V Mainline).
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07-06-2016, 07:10 AM | #210 | |
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I actually said to myself that i'd be happy to sit in the 380-390rwkw range, primarily due to my DCT. I'm not sure of the boundaries that the dodson packs can be pushed to, however i was sitting in the car on the dyno day, and they held well. Pushing it further may be ok, but i'm really happy with where it is, and don't want to push too far. |
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07-06-2016, 08:18 AM | #212 | |
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Would be interesting to add other peeps cars on this |
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07-06-2016, 08:30 AM | #213 |
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To fill in your blanks also Coupes33
DP's: AR Design Intercooler: Helix CP: TFT |
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07-06-2016, 08:56 AM | #215 | |
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07-06-2016, 06:19 PM | #216 | |
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07-06-2016, 06:24 PM | #217 |
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Do a spreadsheet that everyone can enter their details in
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Aussie e92 335i. Pure Stage 2 Twin Turbos, Pure Performance Motorsport's Forge Conrods and Pistons, Fuel-it Port Injection, 7.5" Step-Up intercooler, Fuel-it Stage 3 LPFP upgraded fuel lines, Tial 50mm BOV, TFT RHD Inlets, MHD Custom Wedge E70 Map, Split Second PI controller, BMS OCC, PRP Coil Kit, AR Design 3" Catless DP, Remus Dual 2.5" system with 84mm quad tips, RB PCV valve, CSF Radiator
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07-07-2016, 05:08 AM | #218 | ||
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The clutch packs may well and truly hold, but then the next weakest link may potentially fail i.e. Seals, solenoids and internal gears |
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07-17-2016, 06:11 AM | #219 |
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I've been dealing with some intermittent starting issues over the last few weeks, having NRMA membership has been an absolute lifesaver, and i completely recommend it to everyone as it's really affordable. Since i've had 2 weeks now with no issues (touch wood), i'm happy to share the solution incase it might help someone else.
My symptoms were only ever on hot starts, meaning it would fire up everytime on cold starts, but after a drive (medium/short) it would intermittently not want to start at all.. no crank, no click, nada... all lights would turn on, battery reading as fine and normal.. NRMA was called many times, and a jump start would have her up and running again - first time, every time! Searching online, there are a few things that could cause this, mainly being bad battery, bad earth/grounding, starter motor, battery cables, push button and gremlins.. I scanned the car using the Schwaben scan tool, and picked up this code: A0B4. Seeing that it's related to the 'starter operation' i made an educated punt on the starter motor first. Looking for starter motors online, they are a pretty hefty price point brand new for OEM, and even the second hand and reconditioned options are fairly expensive... The warranty also for brand new is only 12 months i think, and the second hand options offer no warranty or 3 months - pretty weak periods. I opted to go for an aftermarket option on eBay priced extremely well ($184 DELIVERED) and offering a whopping 5 years warranty!! You also need to buy replacement bolts, as they are almunium and one time use only, part number: 12410392577 Onto the install.... The started motor is located under the intake manifold.. So for me, it was a PITA!! Having the oil catch catch setup and port injection made it unnecessarily longer than it should have been, but i managed to complete it in 3.5 hours... Removal progress.. So in true BMW fashion, anything that appears simple, never is! The starter motor is held in by 2 etorx screws (shown above), the problem is, the longer one is screwed in from the transmission pointing towards the front of the car. The shorter second bolt is located on the bottom right and screwed in from the front the back (normal). The etorx socket could not seat on the rear bolt properly, and there was no way you'd be able to angle the ratchet onto the socket to loosen it... Being an aluminum bolt, it will strip super easily, and your fucked if it does!! So i start rummaging through my tool boxes to find something, anything to get this PITA bolt out... May i present to you, the life saver!! If it wasn't for this ratchet, i would have been raging in the garage and forced the piece the car together for nothing!!! This 10mm flex head ratchet saved my sanity! Look how perfectly designed for the job it was... I wanted to kiss it! NOTE: The replacement bolts were a larger etorx, i don't remember what size ratchet i used for it, but just buy the whole ratchet set. With the sucker out, i took some comparison pics.. original unit new unit new unit Comparison While i was there, decided to give my plugs a change.. It's always such a big difference when comparing new plugs to old ones.. All the plugs look pretty similar which is a good sign.. Last edited by _ink; 07-18-2016 at 04:55 AM.. |
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07-17-2016, 06:20 AM | #220 |
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Thanks for sharing this Ink... glad you got this sorted without too much fuss
Great price on this starter motor!!! Last edited by Socket; 07-17-2016 at 06:26 AM.. |
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