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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > ConnectedDrive / I-Drive / Navigation Related Discussion > 2011 335d HK/L7 Suddenly No Sound!!



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      06-06-2021, 12:28 PM   #1
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2011 335d HK/L7 Suddenly No Sound!!

Hey guys, in dire straits with this random issue. Got in the car yesterday, fired it up, immediately a horrendously loud screeching sound came from the speakers, stopped, then a different more "electronic" sound, just as loud, than nothing. Checked Aux cable, was slightly pulled out of the port. Not sure how this could've caused this, but the symptoms are:

No sound whatsoever from speakers; no radio, Aux, phone, dash displays a message saying "Attention! No warning tones" I. E. It isn't detecting a way to play interior chimes/etc either.

Idrive functions normally except for all settings having to do with audio; when I try to adjust any of them, there's a long delay, 20 seconds or so, before my adjustment with the Idrive wheel takes effect.

I tried checking all the fuses that I believed to be related to the audio system, the 30amp amplifier fuse, etc. And all are fine

What could possibly be causing this?!

Everything else in the car works fine

Last edited by thewheelm4n; 06-06-2021 at 10:59 PM..
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      06-18-2021, 09:35 AM   #2
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Sounds like your HK amp has gone pop.

All the symptoms and the "Attention! No warning tones" means that your amp is not being seen on the MOST bus, so I suspect that its dead, or non functioning.

Have a look in the boot (the trunk) and see if you have water in the right hand side, thats probably whats happened.
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      06-18-2021, 02:56 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccfj1 View Post
Sounds like your HK amp has gone pop.

All the symptoms and the "Attention! No warning tones" means that your amp is not being seen on the MOST bus, so I suspect that its dead, or non functioning.

Have a look in the boot (the trunk) and see if you have water in the right hand side, thats probably whats happened.
Yup, was the amp. I believe it overheated as I've heard the internal fan can fail, as there wasn't any water in the cavity. Was able to grab a used replacement off ebay and pop it in, all better! Thank God, was really concerned it'd be thousands to repair.
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      06-21-2021, 10:08 AM   #4
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Nice one mate

Might be an idea to make sure its coded (to your car type) as the L7 amp is available on lots of BMWs

Its just coding to make them work 100% for the interior sound staging.

SO, if the amp came from an x5 and you are putting it in a e92, the staging will be for a bigger interior volume and the timing between the speakers might be off.
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      06-21-2021, 01:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccfj1 View Post
Nice one mate

Might be an idea to make sure its coded (to your car type) as the L7 amp is available on lots of BMWs

Its just coding to make them work 100% for the interior sound staging.

SO, if the amp came from an x5 and you are putting it in a e92, the staging will be for a bigger interior volume and the timing between the speakers might be off.
Thanks for the advice, I'll probably have my buddies at Highline Motorsports here check to make sure it's good, but it did come from a 2012 335i, so shouldn't need any coding, sound seems fine for music, phone, interior chimes so far.

It seemed to cut out twice last night on me though, when I was using PDC to back up it didn't have any sound for a second, then came back, what could cause this?
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      06-22-2021, 03:14 AM   #6
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Probably does not need coding

Hmm, maybe you have a another module, check and see if the car has any error codes logged
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      06-24-2021, 06:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewheelm4n View Post
Thanks for the advice, I'll probably have my buddies at Highline Motorsports here check to make sure it's good, but it did come from a 2012 335i, so shouldn't need any coding, sound seems fine for music, phone, interior chimes so far.

It seemed to cut out twice last night on me though, when I was using PDC to back up it didn't have any sound for a second, then came back, what could cause this?
Coding an L7 is only one line of code. It is set to E90 or E92. E70 X5 amps are physically different than E90. But if your friend can flash the firmware with Winkfp, do that. It is an easy 2 minute flash that does not need an ICOM. That may fix the issue with cutting out. iDrives on the latest flash need the L7 amp to be on the latest flash.
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