[Paxandrax]

I have 07 328i and I’ve been trying to diagnose problems but everytime I get close it seems something else happens. Last night my car seemed fine but it stalled so I drove it home and it stalled right when pulling into my driveway and wouldn’t start again. I ran the codes today and got p0012 and p0015 (cam shaft position over retarded bank a and b). I cleaned the return valves and the vanos solenoids and then cleared the codes. Still car won’t crank but stereo and lights all come on. I don’t even hear the starter. Battery seems fine as it was powering my amp while I’m trying to start the car. Also brake pedal is super tight. CEL is on but no stored codes. I checked my spark plugs and they don’t look new at all but could that be the reason?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Paxandrax

... 07 328i... it stalled right when pulling into my driveway and wouldn’t start again. I ran the codes today and got p0012 and p0015... I cleaned the return valves and the vanos solenoids and then cleared the codes. Still car won’t crank but stereo and lights all come on. I don’t even hear the starter. Battery seems fine as it was powering my amp while I’m trying to start the car... CEL is on but no stored codes. I checked my spark plugs and they don’t look new at all but could that be the reason?

"NO Crank" means CAS Module is NOT Activating the Starter Solenoid to turn the engine. Spark plugs, or any Engine Condition are irrelevant if engine is NOT being 'Cranked' by Starter.

To help you via the Web, we need the following information:
1) The Last-7 Characters of your VIN. Many changes to electrical system on 3/1/2007 in middle of 2007 Model Run;
2) Make/Model of any Scan Tool available to you? Do you have INPA/ISTA Diagnostic Software or a Windows Laptop?
3) Do you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter) and know how to read Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood?
4) NEED DMM to diagnose any electrical issue. Here are two basic models:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
https://www.amazon.com/Plusivo-Digit...s%2C157&sr=8-5
5) What voltage is read at Jumpstart Terminals under hood?
6) If LESS than 12.0V, what voltage is read at battery posts in trunk?
7) What warning lights appear on Instrument Cluster after you press START button with foot on Brake/Clutch?

Answer the questions above to best of your ability, and don't be concerned if you do NOT understand some of the concepts/terms used, or if you don't have some of equipment described. As stated, a $7 to $12 DMM is sufficient to do basic diagnosis with Forum Help, but INPA/ISTA or other Diagnostic Tools would make it QUICKER.

A "P-code Reader" that read the P0012 & P0015 faults (which have NOTHING to do with "No Crank") cannot read "Hex-codes" (Hexadecimal Codes) in the CAS Module, or Live Data such as "CAS Terminal Status" in CAS Module. If you have a Windows Laptop, you can download & install INPA, and also ISTA if desired, and only cost is $30-$50 K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop USB port to vehicle OBD II Socket. If you have Android device (Phone), there are other solutions to obtain software and vehicle connection that will allow you to connect to the CAS Module and read codes, FF Data, or Live Data.

While diagnosis with Diagnostic Software is quicker, we CAN suggest tests you can do with a simple DMM to identify the issue, IF you answer the questions above.
George

[jsunma]

George is spot on with his procedures. Also that the 2 codes you got have nothing to do with a no-crank situation.

But having had this happen to me recently - no crank, but seemingly fine power to all accessories - I'll ask "can you hear the fuel pump?" when you attempt to start the car? If "YES" (it's a whirring, buzzing sound that's probably not very loud...so make sure you don't have the stereo on when you try this), then it's probably not your CAS module and is more likely a bad starter and/or failed engine ground.

Assuming that your car is a 2007 and that neither of these things have been looked at before, it's about the right age for either to have failed.

If you cannot hear the fuel pump, then absolutely carry on with George's procedures (he'll get you there one way or the other :-) ) as the issue is either fuses or a failed module or something else in the wiring.

Oh, and there's always the tried and true (going back probably a 100 years to shortly after electrical car starters were invented) method of banging on the starter solenoid with a big stick/ratchet/bar while attempting to start the car. I neither endorse or deny the validity of that trick.