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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > N55 going through oil



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      08-12-2019, 09:54 PM   #1
sbc383e85
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N55 going through oil

My engine oil indicator has gone from Max to halfway between the min and Max in a matter of 1000 miles. No smoke from the exhaust or drops of oil under the car after being parked. First BMW it's a 2011 e90 xdrive. The only oil I've seen is a slight bit coated on the trans pan. No drops of oil while parked though. Asking on possible culprits before I either tackle it myself or being it in
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      08-13-2019, 05:27 AM   #2
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Check your gaskets. Re-top off the oil , Lift car up and spray brake cleaner then take it for a spin for a day or two to see if you can locate the leak. Hard for us to help without direction
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      08-13-2019, 05:47 AM   #3
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Get ready to shell out a grand for oil pan gasket. Well, pretty much all gaskets from factory are 8+ years old so they should be nearing the end of their life cycle.
They're rubber. They don't last forever.
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      08-13-2019, 05:57 AM   #4
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If it's an oil pan gasket I'm just gonna do a downpipe and pure stage 2 turbo at the same time. Thanks for the insight I'll probably take it in
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      08-13-2019, 08:57 AM   #5
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sbc, if you are going to take it that far, consider swapping out the rod bearings. Some here have, including myself. As you would be going with a new bigger turbo that tells me that you are keeping the car for a while. At least consider it.
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      08-13-2019, 02:15 PM   #6
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hahhahah love this thread so far, the guy has some oil consumption and it ends with replace rod bearings

OP Check your PCV as well but oil around transmission could be your rear main seal. Not fun.
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      08-13-2019, 04:46 PM   #7
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Pladi, did you miss him talk about changing his oil pan gasket and a swapping to a Pure 2? He's on the ball about doing stuff while he is there to minimize future labor. If it is a PCV leaking would there not be smoke?

Rear main seal, he should consider swapping out the clutch at the same time.
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      08-13-2019, 11:29 PM   #8
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You are roughly at 1qt per 2k miles. Not bad but not good. If you fix all of your leaking gaskets you will probably get up to 1qt per 3k miles. Most likely burning it off. Look at your plugs and find out which (if any) cylinders are bad.
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      08-14-2019, 12:55 AM   #9
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Yeah, I have no sign of leaks at all and replaced OFHG but I still see some good amount of oil disappear. I think there really is a big problem with oil burning, but I just don't know to how big of an extent. Changing for new gaskets will ensure a better seal of the closed oil system, but I don't know if it would really make a difference.
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      08-14-2019, 01:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
Yeah, I have no sign of leaks at all and replaced OFHG but I still see some good amount of oil disappear. I think there really is a big problem with oil burning, but I just don't know to how big of an extent. Changing for new gaskets will ensure a better seal of the closed oil system, but I don't know if it would really make a difference.
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      08-14-2019, 09:40 PM   #11
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You're not going to leak a 1/2 qt of oil and not notice it. It's either going to make stains on the ground where you park overnight (most likely), make a huge mess on the under carriage, or smell if it's burning on the exhaust.

How much history do you have with this car?
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      08-15-2019, 06:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
Yeah, I have no sign of leaks at all and replaced OFHG but I still see some good amount of oil disappear. I think there really is a big problem with oil burning, but I just don't know to how big of an extent. Changing for new gaskets will ensure a better seal of the closed oil system, but I don't know if it would really make a difference.
"Burning oil" and "Leaking oil" are used mostly interchangeably to state that oil is being lost either literally by burning or through a leak. More commonly it is a leak.
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      08-15-2019, 11:11 PM   #13
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I'm bringing the car to a reputable shop tomorrow in the Twin cities, I'll have them diagnose it. I'm already figuring worst case I got the car about a month ago and it has 80k miles on it. I have the previous 7 years of maintenance records from BMW dealer and imola Motorsports her in the twin cities. There's no smoke in the engine bay or exhaust. It's an auto trans xdrive and it's getting all fluids changed. OFHG was changed 15k miles ago. The car rips good, no hesitation. I'll post an update when I head back to what they find
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      08-21-2019, 05:55 PM   #14
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Update: oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and ofhg all need to be replaced
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      08-21-2019, 10:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbc383e85 View Post
Update: oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and ofhg all need to be replaced
Replace the whole valve cover not just the gasket.
The integrated PCV will fail sooner or later and then you'll pay the labor twice.
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      08-21-2019, 11:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
Replace the whole valve cover not just the gasket.
The integrated PCV will fail sooner or later and then you'll pay the labor twice.
Good point.. PCV WILL fail so OP might as well deal with this now.
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      08-22-2019, 09:43 AM   #17
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Should I install an oil cooler while the ofhg is bring done? Do I just need the tstat housing and say the hard Motorsports oil cooler kit?
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      08-22-2019, 12:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbc383e85 View Post
Should I install an oil cooler while the ofhg is bring done? Do I just need the tstat housing and say the hard Motorsports oil cooler kit?
Will you go with Pure two? If so, that states your whp aspirations... do it.
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      08-22-2019, 01:38 PM   #19
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2011 BMW 335xi  [3.50]
My oil pan gasket is leaking as well. Wish there was an easy way to fix this.
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      08-22-2019, 03:07 PM   #20
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I just repaired the oil leak "trifecta" on my car last month. Definitely replace the whole valve cover along with the serpentine belt, tensioner, and pulleys. If you're close to due on spark plugs and/or coils you should do those too. It sucks to do it all yourself and it's insanely expensive to pay somebody else to do it...
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