[ColoradoCale]

Got the motor in!

$1400 for an engine with 97k from a donor sideswipe salvage car with no damage to the driveline. Came with all the accessories so I should be able to recoup most, if not all, that I spent on the motor from the old engine just from the intake manifold, injectors + rail, new coil packs, electronic harnesses, and DME.

Has anyone done a swap on a xi? For the front drive shafts do I need to go through the entire process listed on Replacing output shafts + links to other necessary steps + the track rods, guide rods, wishbone bearing, etc or can I get away with removing the shocks/springs and raising them up to get the front axles out of the diff? Only have experience with RWD 3-series so the front half of the drive system is a new world to me. Had to do a clutch release bearing on an early 90s Subaru transmission and it was a cinch to get the front axles out without having to go through all the work listed in the guide I posted.

I've compiled and printed every step necessary from that site to make a master guide (more than 60 pages) from start to finish, and combed through it in its entirety to come up with all the replacement parts needed.

Also, any recommendations for where to get tools second hand or cheap?

And one more thing, going to be using rmeuropean for replacement aluminum parts/gaskets/self-locking nuts/o-rings etc since they are local (free pickup/no shipping) unless anyone knows where to get parts for a little less. Most inexpensive I've found so far, but never hurts to ask

Thanks all! Can't wait to get started!

[W37V]

While you have it out, do fresh gaskets on it for piece of mind. Valve cover and especially oil pan gasket. Saves you a headache later on.

Personal opinion:
Kobalt tools (from Lowe’s ) are fairly good and cheap. Lifetime warranty as well. Husky tools from Home Depot are also really good. Craftsman is overrated, overpriced junk. Harbor freight is ok, but don’t have your expectations too high. They also have free lifetime warranty.

[ColoradoCale]

Cool, I was planning on doing the VC gasket and doing the oil pan gasket since I need to swap the AWD oil pan from the current motor to the new one.

And good to know, I mostly have Husky tools but need to cover the gaps. I have a Harbor Freight torque wrench but think it's time to upgrade anyway. Thanks for the info! Any recommendations to source tools for pulling the front driveshafts and some other misc tools like a Torque angle measuring dial + magnet, this guy, that guy, another guy, and guys like this? There are more I'm sure but think I can get away with most of the basics. Some other pita ones are the the ones under special tools here.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by ColoradoCale

For the front drive shafts do I need to go through the entire process listed on Replacing output shafts + links to other necessary steps + the track rods, guide rods, wishbone bearing, etc or can I get away with removing the shocks/springs and raising them up to get the front axles out of the diff? Only have experience with RWD 3-series so the front half of the drive system is a new world to me

You don't have to fight removing the half shafts from spindles. You only need to disconnect the half shafts from the front differential, which just needs a pry bar, or actually a big flat screw driver and a hammer and gently tap it to pop out. Then you can disconnect the wishbone, control arm and tie-rod from spindle (or their corresponding end from subframe, up to you whichever works). Then remove the brake caliper hang on the shock spring. Loosen the shock pinch bolt and take out the whole spindle along with any wishbone, control arm if you removed the subframe sides of them, together with the axle (half-shaft) still on the spindle. Removing the brake rotors, and brake dust shield plates first is highly recommended, helps reduce the weight, and so helps with putting it back in.

I had replaced my oil-pan and some part of the work is removing axles out of the way, and that is what I did as summary. More detail:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290

I highly suggest buying axle (half-shaft) seals that seal the differential (and oil pan on passenger side) to axles. The OEM axle seals come with C clips, and good to replace the one on the axle. Each time the axle is popped out this C clip gets a bit squished, making it not hold that firmly when popped back in.

You should buy the O-rings that seal the front differential to the oil pan, and the other side "pedestal" to oil pan. Maybe you already have those.

Added later: You may be able to leave the spindle on the shocks and move around the axles around, someone did a front differential swap that way, but with a little more work getting the spindles completely off (with the axles attached to them) will give you more freedom to work there.

[ColoradoCale]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I had replaced my oil-pan and some part of the work is removing axles out of the way, and that is what I did as a summary. More detail:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290

Excellent write-up PhaseP, this is exactly what I was looking for! I'll add the recommended parts to my shopping list. Can all the nuts and bolts be reused when reassembling?

[PhaseP]

If you go by the book almost all suspension used bolts are one time use, but you can use your own judgement. Also depends on your budget and how long you plan to keep the car. The suspension nuts are self locking type they may be good to replace. Subframe bolts are not mentioned to be replaced in the book. My passenger side front subframe bolt looked like a rat had gnawed on it, so replaced that one after the job done later. That TIS website should give what bolt not to replace or not. I had some of that info on my diy write up.

[ColoradoCale]

Does anyone have master replacement parts lists to do the swap? I've put together a list of everything (I think), but want to make sure I order everything in one go since I have limited free garage time to do the swap (a week). It'd be great if I don't have everything on hold waiting to get new parts/having to coordinate multiple runs across town without a car to get there because I missed one bolt, nut, o-ring, etc. Purchasing everything through RMEuropean since they have great prices, have been great for support in previous orders, and are local.

Pretty much looking to get the parts to do the valve cover gasket to get the eccentric shaft sensor I put in the old motor, the intake manifold parts since it needs to be removed to get the bell housing bolts off, the oil pan swap from the i motor to the xi motor, and all the parts that need to be replaced when pulling the front half of the awd system. I'm not worried about the parts to put back on the old motor since I'll be parting it out anyway to recoup swap costs(should make it all back from the injector rail/injectors, intake manifold, DME, and oil pan. The accessories should put me in the black beyond those.

What I have so far:

OIL PAN GASKET 11137548031
$21.28
1

VALVE COVER BOLT KIT 11120409288
$23.73
1

Output Flange Nut LOCK PLATE 23211490120
$3.18
2

Bolt Set - Auto Trans Bellhousing to Engine (Aluminum) 24000392608
$9.24
1

Wheel bearing (90 x 3 mm) SNAP RING 07119934760
$4.92
2

O-ring Transfer Case Output Shaft (31 X 2.5 mm) 27107537631
$1.15
1

Nut for Wheel Bearing/Axle (27 X 1.5 mm) 33411133785
$4.41
2

Seal - Transfer Case Output Shaft 27107539266
$9.01
1

Collar Nut (Locking) - 14 mm 33306760349
$3.49
2

LIQUI MOLY Differential Oil - SAE 75W-90 Synthetic (1 Liter) 07512293972
$11.92
2

Valve Cover Gasket Set 11127581215
$24.29
1

Shaft Seal - Differential Output Shaft (67 X 44 X 10/15.5 mm) 33107505601
$7.66
2

Copper Collar Nut - Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head (7 mm) 11721437202
$0.63
16

FUCHS MAINTAIN FRICOFIN Coolant / Antifreeze (Blue) 82141467704
$20.24
1

O-Ring - Differential/Support Bracket to Oil Pan (39 mm Diameter) 31511213527
$3.39
2

LIQUI MOLY SPECIAL TEC LL Engine Oil - 5W-30 Synthetic 83212365946
$7.13
7

Auto Trans Bellhousing to Engine (8 X 50 mm) 23001222887
$1.94
4

Copper Lock Nut (10 mm) - Exhaust Flange 18301737774
$0.63
4

Lock Nut for Eccentric Bolt in Control Arm (12 X 1.5-10 mm) 33326760668
$1.23
12

Lock Ring for Differential Output Shaft (22.4 mm Diameter) 33131214961
$1.31
2

Engine Oil Drain Plug (12 X 1.5 X 16 mm) 11137535106
$2.55
1

Exhaust Manifold Gasket - Manifold to Front Exhaust Pipe 18107549447
$9.58
2

Exhaust Manifold Gasket - Manifold to Cylinder Head 18407530606
$4.12
6

Ball Joint for Control Arm (Traction Strut) 31126768988
$8.14
2

Differential Drain Plug with O-Ring (22 X 1.5 mm) 33117525064
$4.60
1

Gasket Set - Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head 11617547242
$14.37
1

Engine Oil Pan Bolt Kit (Aluminum) 11132210959
$26.72
1

Differential to Axle Carrier (12 X 50 mm) 23001222891
$5.06
2

Thanks all again, your input has been invaluable!

[PainelessBMW]

First Time poster! - I just picked up a high mileage 2006 325xi with low compression on 4/23. This thread is exactly what I am looking for!

I have a lead on a low mileage 2011 328xi engine (N52N), harness, DME. Will this engine work with my current harness/DME?

Current 2006 DME = MSV70
2011 328xi DME = MSV80

If I cannot use the current harness/MSV70 DME, will swapping to the 2011 MSV80 DME, engine harness, CAS, and Keys work?

Completely new to the e90 world and the "modern" BMW electronics. I'm coming from an e30

Any input would be excellent! Thanks!

[hassmaschine]

swap over all the sensors, including the throttle, manifold, etc. and it will bolt right up.

The vanos units, cam and crank sensors, and knock sensors are all the same but the MAF and throttle are different, and the PCV/crankcase breathing setup is different as well. You'll probably want to use the metal valve cover and associated parts.

[ColoradoCale]

If you want to pick up the motor I have, it’s for sale haha

The garage I was going to use(with lift and tools) fell through and I don’t want to do this in my garage so I’m bailing and selling the car + engine either together or separately (I have multiple spine and shoulder injuries, doing the ESS had me out for a week, can't imagine what rolling around under the car pulling everything would do to me.)

Let me know if you are interested.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by ColoradoCale

If you want to pick up the motor I have, it’s for sale haha

The garage I was going to use(with lift and tools) fell through and I don’t have the tools to do this in my garage so I’m bailing and selling the car + engine either together or separately. Let me know if you are interested.

Sorry to hear that. You were so close.

[cwlo]

Paineless, you might also have to swap over the oil pump. Some of the later N52's utilize an electronic controlled oil pressure valve that integrates with the oil pump. It is located just behind the ac compressor. If you see an electronic connection rather than blank-off plate, you have the electronic one.

[ColoradoCale]

Originally Posted by PainelessBMW

First Time poster! - I just picked up a high mileage 2006 325xi with low compression on 4/23. This thread is exactly what I am looking for!

Here's a complete guide for doing a swap

Pretty much you'll want to do all the necessary preliminary tasks listed (plus all the preliminary tasks listed under each preliminary task) to do the swap. The guide includes pictures for almost everything, all the tools, replacement parts, and torque values for the swap from start to finish. I think I have all the parts listed earlier to do the swap, but not 100% sure. It's about $450 + tax for all the replacement nuts, bolts, seals, etc + s/h & tax from the vendor I mentioned unless I missed anything + tools needed.

Not sure what specific parts you'll need to get the MSV80 to MSV70 ready but you can probably compare the parts from the engine/electrical pages here (may differ slightly, you can find the exact parts based on the engine production date, I just entered 01/2011) and here (again, you can find exact parts by using your specific production date for the '06, I put in 01/2006.)

I'm still thinking about doing the swap in my garage, but I'm not thrilled about the idea of using a couple jack stands and having to work under the car with my laundry list of back, neck, and shoulder issues. I remember how everything hurt after doing home garage work/swaps on my S30, S13's, Z32 TT and other projects before breaking/tearing a bunch of body parts lol.

Saw this swap and makes me a little more confident in doing it at home though. Pretty sure it is an i and not a xi though.

[PainelessBMW]

So the engine I had a lead on from the 2011 328xi ended up being a SULEV N51. Luckily I ran the VIN through a decoder and found that out before I went any further. The guy doing the part out had it listed as an N52.

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

swap over all the sensors, including the throttle, manifold, etc. and it will bolt right up.

The vanos units, cam and crank sensors, and knock sensors are all the same but the MAF and throttle are different, and the PCV/crankcase breathing setup is different as well. You'll probably want to use the metal valve cover and associated parts.

Thanks Hassmaschine! - Are you doing an n52 e30 swap? I think I saw that somewhere in this forum?

Originally Posted by ColoradoCale

If you want to pick up the motor I have, it’s for sale haha

The garage I was going to use(with lift and tools) fell through and I don’t want to do this in my garage so I’m bailing and selling the car + engine either together or separately (I have multiple spine and shoulder injuries, doing the ESS had me out for a week, can't imagine what rolling around under the car pulling everything would do to me.)

Let me know if you are interested.

ColoradoCale, I would need to have it shipped to VA, so it may not be worth the hassle..

Originally Posted by cwlo

Paineless, you might also have to swap over the oil pump. Some of the later N52's utilize an electronic controlled oil pressure valve that integrates with the oil pump. It is located just behind the ac compressor. If you see an electronic connection rather than blank-off plate, you have the electronic one.

cwlo, Great info! Thank you. As I mentioned, I am completely new to the e90 platform and need to dig into the specifics of the car and engines.

Originally Posted by ColoradoCale

Here's a complete guide for doing a swap

Pretty much you'll want to do all the necessary preliminary tasks listed (plus all the preliminary tasks listed under each preliminary task) to do the swap. The guide includes pictures for almost everything, all the tools, replacement parts, and torque values for the swap from start to finish. I think I have all the parts listed earlier to do the swap, but not 100% sure. It's about $450 + tax for all the replacement nuts, bolts, seals, etc + s/h & tax from the vendor I mentioned unless I missed anything + tools needed.

Not sure what specific parts you'll need to get the MSV80 to MSV70 ready but you can probably compare the parts from the engine/electrical pages here (may differ slightly, you can find the exact parts based on the engine production date, I just entered 01/2011) and here (again, you can find exact parts by using your specific production date for the '06, I put in 01/2006.)

I'm still thinking about doing the swap in my garage, but I'm not thrilled about the idea of using a couple jack stands and having to work under the car with my laundry list of back, neck, and shoulder issues. I remember how everything hurt after doing home garage work/swaps on my S30, S13's, Z32 TT and other projects before breaking/tearing a bunch of body parts lol.

Saw this swap and makes me a little more confident in doing it at home though. Pretty sure it is an i and not a xi though.

ColoradoCale, Thanks! That newtis link is an absolutely goldmine for this project! I am still debating on what engine to use as a replacement. I may just try and get a n52 330i for the 3 stage manifold, then get a tune to utilize it for the current DME in the car.

This project has been pretty much on standstill for a few weeks. I ended up pulling my m20b25 out of my e30 last week. So this long weekend I plan on getting in some wrenching time and pullout the engine/trans from the e90! I'll probably start my own thread to document and ask more questions!

Thanks for everyone's help!

This is the 2006 325xi...I picked it up for a mere $500!


Started breaking it down a few weeks ago, but this is where it stands as of now.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by PainelessBMW

Thanks Hassmaschine! - Are you doing an n52 e30 swap? I think I saw that somewhere in this forum?

yeah, I've been working on it forever - if you just pulled the M20 out, are you doing one too? lol

[PainelessBMW]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

yeah, I've been working on it forever - if you just pulled the M20 out, are you doing one too? lol

Haha, no... e30 will be getting an m30b35 and 5speed swap.

[ColoradoCale]

Glad to help!

If you are interested in the engine, I'll sell it for $1400 shipped w/o harnesses, DME, and intake manifold. Or a $1000 and you coordinate shipping(freight shipping isn't too bad to setup.)

Here's the listing I have in Denver https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/...565587986.html

Nice e30! I was going to do the same swap on my 92 325is after the timing belt f*cked the valvetrain, wound up selling it since I moved and didn't have a place to store the project.

Some other news, the e90 was sold yesterday and I picked up an F10 last Saturday!!

[E91 Hoarder]

Originally Posted by ColoradoCale

Here's a complete guide for doing a swap

Pretty much you'll want to do all the necessary preliminary tasks listed (plus all the preliminary tasks listed under each preliminary task) to do the swap. The guide includes pictures for almost everything, all the tools, replacement parts, and torque values for the swap from start to finish. I think I have all the parts listed earlier to do the swap, but not 100% sure. It's about $450 + tax for all the replacement nuts, bolts, seals, etc + s/h & tax from the vendor I mentioned unless I missed anything + tools needed.

Not sure what specific parts you'll need to get the MSV80 to MSV70 ready but you can probably compare the parts from the engine/electrical pages here (may differ slightly, you can find the exact parts based on the engine production date, I just entered 01/2011) and here (again, you can find exact parts by using your specific production date for the '06, I put in 01/2006.)

I'm still thinking about doing the swap in my garage, but I'm not thrilled about the idea of using a couple jack stands and having to work under the car with my laundry list of back, neck, and shoulder issues. I remember how everything hurt after doing home garage work/swaps on my S30, S13's, Z32 TT and other projects before breaking/tearing a bunch of body parts lol.

Saw this swap and makes me a little more confident in doing it at home though. Pretty sure it is an i and not a xi though.

Hi there! I need to do the swap in my 325i, but unfortunately that link to newtis guide no longer works. Any chance someone saved the guide and can share it please?