[GearHead335i]

Spun a rod bearing on cylinder 1, removed the engine and rebuilt it with all new gaskets, seals, rod bearings, along with a new piston in cylinder 1. Got the car back together and for the life of me cannot figure out what it is. Well I should say I think it’s the hpfp but I purchased a new to me (used) oem hpfp off of eBay and I’m leaning towards that but wanted to get some opinions first. Car has;

Brand new Delphi coils from fcp
New to me (used) hpfp
When I put the motor back together I reinstalled injectors with all new Teflon seals and decoupling rings.
Brand new aluminum charge pipe.
Tried to clean Maf and map
Brand new Bosch upstream o2
Had a new rien valve cover gasket but think it was a factory defect bc I’m 99% sure it was cracked bc of crazy excessive crankcase pressure when I opened up oil fill cap. Went back to the oem one and no more crazy pressure when I open oil fill cap.

Also worth mentioning that the car sat for almost 3 years and had 3 year old gas in it that I emptied out the best I could by putting power to the lpfp and disconnecting the fuel line that goes to the hpfp and emptied it into a bucket but I know there was still some in theee as the range said 50 miles still. Filled it back up with 10 gallons of new 93 aswell as some moisture remover (HEET).

I took some logs of it just idling or trying to, and some where I am keeping the afr and stft down by hitting the accelerator once in a while. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[GearHead335i]

https://datazap.me/u/quinnhogue7/idl...og=0&data=4-16


Idling

[GearHead335i]

https://datazap.me/u/quinnhogue7/idl...og=0&data=4-16

Idling with some throttle to keep stft and aft down. Also wanted to see what numbers did when I held it at around 10-20% throttle and just as I expected it bogged down.

[GearHead335i]

Bump, could really use some help…anyone?

[GearHead335i]

Update since originally posting this, I replaced;

-Eccentric Motor

-I believe I carried out the correct way to “program” the new eccentric motor with my Ancel BM700 Scan tool that does thing like code injectors, battery reset etc. very similar to the foxwell Nt510.

-did a DIY stage 2 LPFP, very easy to do btw if anyone is wondering. (Stage 2 fuel pump just consisted of a brand new Walbro 450, the f90000274 which is the more powerful version of the f90000267, retrofitted to sit in the oem bucket right where the oem pump would normally sit. I also have the same pump in my e90 335i n54 as well but the diy to do that was much harder with the Venturi fuel return system.)

-fuel pump install obv included a brand new fuel filter sock on the new pump.

-installed brand new Bosch oem plugs. Coils are literally brand new Delphi’s.

-Changed oil for the first time on the new rebuilt engine. Decided to go with a little heavier of a weight so instead of 0w-40 I went with 5w-40. There was your normal slight shimmer to the oil after new rod bearings are installed, filter looked really dirty for how short of a time it was in there but again with the assembly lube and the whole motor being apart it’s to be expected.

-bought another turbo inlet pipe bc thought the one I had was cracked.

-checked and replaced most of the o rings on the hard vacuum lines that click into place.

-replaced o ring on passenger side intercooler connection.

-replaced intake manifold gaskets

-purchased an oem air box and removed the Burger Motorsports intake I had on it.



The car deff runs a bit better but still stumbles and idles pretty crappy. I’m really at a loss here, I really figured one of these would fix it. I’m starting to fear the worst here. I’m also running out of ideas and could really use some guidance. My guess is it is;

-either one of the TMAP sensors either on the intake manifold itself or the charge pipe.
-the MAF sensor
-rear main seal or front main seal but again since the engine was just recently put back together by installed two new seals. Maybe install error of some sort, not really sure.

[carguy138]

Have you tried running a few bottles of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through it? Might want to dump a bottle in and go for a long drive and see what happens.

I've rebuilt plenty of smaller engines over the years and when fuel with ethanol sits for a long time, it leaves this nasty varnish.

Also check the TMAP sensor plug on the charge pipe. See if there is any corrosion on the pins. If there is, try cleaning it out and use some dielectric grease on the pins. I had an issue with this and it was causing all sorts of erratic idles and would randomly stall. Replaced a bunch of parts but it ended up being corrosion on these pins.

[GearHead335i]

Originally Posted by carguy138

Have you tried running a few bottles of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through it? Might want to dump a bottle in and go for a long drive and see what happens.

I've rebuilt plenty of smaller engines over the years and when fuel with ethanol sits for a long time, it leaves this nasty varnish.

Also check the TMAP sensor plug on the charge pipe. See if there is any corrosion on the pins. If there is, try cleaning it out and use some dielectric grease on the pins. I had an issue with this and it was causing all sorts of erratic idles and would randomly stall. Replaced a bunch of parts but it ended up being corrosion on these pins.

You know you might be right about the fuel thing bc I think I mentioned this in an earlier post but I got as much old fuel out as possible by just hot wiring the old fuel pump with a dc power source but there was still about 60 miles left in the range of old fuel but that’s all I could get out. With that said I filled it back up with new 93 and put some fuel cleaner in there and some moisture reducer but I feel like the lines might have some crud in there bc even taking it for a short 10 min drive yesterday had the car running decent, atleast a lot better than it was before.

As for the tmap pins being corroded I’ll be sure to check that. It feels like it something stupid like the last bit of the bad fuel or something electrical bc it’s so erratic. Sometimes it will run ok, not good but ok, and then others it runs HORRIBLY. I’ll grab a large bottle of fuel cleaner and check the pins today and will update this thread. Thanks again for your input!

[GearHead335i]

Update: checked both the tmaps one on the intake manifold and one on the chargepipe and no corrosion. Did replace chargepipe o ring as well. Looks like I have a transmission fluid leak coming from the front of the bell housing. And yes it is definitely trans fluid so that is preventing me from taking it on a long drive. I’m assuming it’s the torque converter seal, when mating the motor and trans I had to do some wiggling to get them to sit properly. I did unbolt the torque converter to flex disc when removing trans to the torque converter didn’t technically go anywhere but it did slide a little when I was getting everything seated. It might just b or be fully seated but man do I not want to have to drop the trans to fix that.

Anyways I cleared the codes after I did the above and logged it. Also after running for about 3 min these are the codes I got.


https://datazap.me/u/quinnhogue7/idl...og=0&data=4-17

[GearHead335i]

Another update; just smoke tested both crankcase and intake system and 0 leaks…I’m officially stumped. Must be one of the injectors or fuel sending unit (I mean whatever is on the drivers side of the tank).

[GearHead335i]

Another update; used my scan tool to watch o2 sensor values and when the car starts running crappy the “status of oxygen sensor emissions control” goes from active to not active. Active it’s running much better than when it is not active. Also the post o2 sensor value is all over the place and gets stuck around 0.03-0.04. Bad post o2 sensor causing all of this?

Again, ANY HELP is greatly appreciated…..

[Dave92N54]

Well considering we can definitely determine there are issues with 2,4 & 5, start there.

Check your injector cables, coil wires & grounds, & spark plugs.

Since you mentioned a cylinder 1 piston replacement, you must've had the head off. In terms of my knowledge, Valvetronic makes things very complicated as I know little about it, but I would certainly be considering an issue in this area as well.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by GearHead335i

Another update; used my scan tool to watch o2 sensor values and when the car starts running crappy the “status of oxygen sensor emissions control” goes from active to not active. Active it’s running much better than when it is not active. Also the post o2 sensor value is all over the place and gets stuck around 0.03-0.04. Bad post o2 sensor causing all of this?

Possible. Check for a small exhaust leak as well. At this point though I'd think just swapping a rear O2 would be worth it.

[GearHead335i]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Well considering we can definitely determine there are issues with 2,4 & 5, start there.

Check your injector cables, coil wires & grounds, & spark plugs.

Since you mentioned a cylinder 1 piston replacement, you must've had the head off. In terms of my knowledge, Valvetronic makes things very complicated as I know little about it, but I would certainly be considering an issue in this area as well.

Yeah I replaced the Valvetronic motor a week ago and also the n55 head comes off entirely intact. You can access every head bolt without touching either of the camshafts etc. Brand new oem plugs and Delphi coils too.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by GearHead335i

Yeah I replaced the Valvetronic motor a week ago and also the n55 head comes off entirely intact. You can access every head bolt without touching either of the camshafts etc. Brand new oem plugs and Delphi coils too.

Okay, voltages look on par for lean codes but the downstream is definitely very, very low. >1.5 up and <.75 down are what would indicate a lean condition. So start with downstream and inspect everything down there/related to it. Check the harness for the O2 plug, make sure it's fully in the downpipe, etc. Also make sure the turbo-downpipe vband is fully seated correctly, would certainly throw off the exhaust mix.

I wish we could see your LPFP pressure but... N55 woes lol

[Dave92N54]

Didn't see the most recent log.

I'm betting some kind of air leak. Your trims are astronomical. Short term is 33% at idle..

Check your VCG.

[GearHead335i]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Didn't see the most recent log.

I'm betting some kind of air leak. Your trims are astronomical. Short term is 33% at idle..

Check your VCG.

So I actually replaced the valve cover and gasket (obv) with a URO branded replacement from rock auto and to begin with it felt a lot more flimsy than the OEM one. With that said, when I was installing the engine and trying to get the back of the engine and transmission made it I got a little frustrated after an hour of it not going in and tried to rock around the engine a little bit to get it seated. Eventually work but I remember definitely hitting the back of the valve cover a few times possibly damaging it. So when this whole fiasco started that was one of the first things I thought and the OEM one wasn’t necessarily bad, in fact it was actually fine before the engine spun a rod bearing. So knowing that plus just how flimsy the new ones felt I ended up using the new valve cover gasket and putting back on the OEM one. Definitely ran better than with the replacement but again I’ve smoke tested both the valve cover/crank case as well as the entire intake system and unless I’m doing it wrong there was no leaks I could find whatsoever. So just to catch everyone up to speed I have addressed and replaced;

- Plugs
- Coils
- Did a stage 2 lpfp diy with a brand new walbro 450
- Valvetronic motor assembly
- Air inlet pipe (inspected to make sure it was seated properly as well as purchase a new to me used parts off of eBay.
- Removed BMS intake and replaced with OEM one.
- Swapped a verified working hpfp (when I did take car for short test drive and at WOT pump peaked at over 3000 psi so should be no problems there.
- Replaced charge pipe with aluminum one, installed brand new o ring as well.
- New fuel rail pressure sensor
- smoke tested intake system as well as crank case/valve cover, no leaks whatsoever.

I’m sure there’s more that I’m just not thinking of, injectors are factory ones that were on the car for cylinders 1, 2, and 3 and then for cylinders number 4, 5, and 6 they are used OEM ones I bought off eBay. New decoupling rings as well as Teflon seals as well as coded with my ANCEL BM700 scan tool.

Yesterday I unhooked the exhaust from the downpipe loosened the the band clamp, made sure it was seated correctly re-tightened the V band first so I knew that was sealed then I hooked up car back, then exhaust Bracket that mounts to transmission. I did this to ensure that it was fully seated correctly.

Remember the car did sit for three years with in between a quarter and half a tank of fuel. Sat outside through the winters and Somers so there is definitely some moisture in the system, so I “hot wired “the low pressure fuel pump and unhooked the fuel line that goes to the back of the high-pressure fuel pump and emptied as much gas out of the tank as I could. As I mentioned above there were still about 60 miles left on the range but again that was all that I could get out so there’s definitely still some old, moisture ridden fuel in there which could 100% be my issue. I’m thinking either that or post cat oxygen sensors as that is what determines short term fuel trim‘s I believe.

The only other thing that could be a possibility is when I originally put the car all back together I had purchased one of those GFB style diverter valve blocks that gets bolted on before the actual diverter valve to mimic somewhat of a blow off valve and supposedly better for your turbo. When I originally started the car was running really choppy and it sounded like the diverter valve was almost stuck open and I was almost positive that that’s what the issue was at the time so I had removed the diverter valve and put back just the stock one. Possibly I could’ve installed it back in correctly or it could just be stuck open? I feel like it’s unlikely but I just wanted to be sure I mentioned that to. Reason I say it’s unlikely is because when I did take the car for sure test drive it did hit 10 psi. Although I believe when it hit 10 psi the boost target was around 12 or 13 so something I will check. If there’s any typos my apologies, driving home from work and using talk to text.