Charging Malfunction on high mileage 335d

Flight335d · 10-28-2019, 08:30 PM

When I started my 335d last Monday morning I got a Charging Malfunction warning. I need help confirming the problem and if it is the Alternator as I suspect, I need help with removal procedures.

My car is a 2011 335d and has 208K miles, I bought it 18 months ago with 172k miles and tackled CBU cleaning in the first few months thanks to the 335D community and tool rental from Mike. My car is stock, other than the electrical EGR pin #5 delete after CBU cleaning. The alternator appears to be OE with a BMW sticker and Valeo part number. I dont know the batteries history.

My steps so far:

The next day I checked battery voltage at 12.3v and running voltage was 14.3v. So my first thought was Alternator is ok battery is probably the issue.

I start the car the next day let it run for a few minutes no batttery warnings. Start the car that night and get the charging system warning almost immediately. So I charged the battery on 2 amps on a smart charger over night. Next day battery voltage was 13.1v but running voltage quickly started dropping below 12v as the engine ran.

I also checked voltage drop from the chassis to the engine and no measurable drop. I also checked running voltage at the Alternator and again 12v and dropping as the engine ran.

I visually inspected the harmonic balancer and belt and pully operation while running all seemed fine. The balancer was replaced by the prior owner at about 150K miles 3 years ago. I pulled error codes with a blue driver scan tool and got a Generator Code 4A17.

At this point I think the OE Valeo Alternator brushes are simply worn out and I need to replace the Alternator. Is there anything else I should check to confirm the problem is the alternator?

If it is the alternator, I need help with removal proceduers. I could not find any vidoes online or DIY posts for removing the 335d alternator.

Any and all help

from the 335D community is greatly appreciated!

335dlci · 10-29-2019, 01:43 AM

I think you found the source of the issue.

Nadir Point · 10-31-2019, 11:26 AM

I haven't swapped alternators on a Bimmer yet, but I'm guessing the alternator is going to be straightforward nuts and bolts, unless there's some hidden gotcha, which is of course, always to be expected.

geko29 · 10-31-2019, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

I haven't swapped alternators on a Bimmer yet, but I'm guessing the alternator is going to be straightforward nuts and bolts, unless there's some hidden gotcha, which is of course, always to be expected.

I haven't done it on my d, but it took me 15 minutes to replace the alternator on my old E46.

335D Alpha Pappa · 10-31-2019, 01:38 PM

step-by-step instructions on how to replace the alternator.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-parts/BnAVrmB

Flight335d · 11-01-2019, 04:23 PM

Thanks you alpha papa, I have been scouring the internet looking for information on the procedure for the M57.

Flight335d · 11-08-2019, 03:39 PM

Thanks to Alpha Pappa for the removal procedures and the members of this forum I was able to fix my charging problem with my 335D. Thought I would close the loop on this thread to help those that find themselves where I was.

The alternator was in fact the problem. Once out of the car, I was able to remove the voltage regulator and inspect the slip ring which is what the brushes contact. Sure enough the top contact was black meaning no contact with the brush. Diagnoses confirmed.

Decision time, new $240 Valeo alternator or $5 brushes. The bearings felt good so I opted for replacing the brushes. They can be aquired on eBay 4.5 mm x 6.5mm x 15mm. Unfortunately, I was not able to confirm the repair before reassembly as neither Orielys nor Autozone would test it out side the car. So I put it back in.

During the removal process I broke the small hose to the surge tank on the upper raditor hose at the conection to the radiator $100. I also noticed the tension pulley was a bit noisy so I replaces that also $50. Since my coolant system was now open I decided to drain the system and replace the coolant. I used Zerex G48.

I attempted the water pump cycling procedure for e90's with the heater on, engine off, gass pedal 10 sec.... to get the electric pump to cycle. Not sure if it worked or not. Cranked it up let the bleeder scew out to bleed off some air and then took it out for a short test drive. Seems to be ok.

An of course I checked the voltage when running and got the appropriate +14 volts at the battery so she is definately charging. And of course mother BMW did not give me a warning...

Thanks again for the help from all of those who responded to my post

335dlci · 11-08-2019, 05:29 PM

There is no electric water pump!!. Glad it's fixed. It's also called an expansion tank not surge tank.

apexit4 · 11-10-2019, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335dlci

There is no electric water pump!!. Glad it's fixed. It's also called an expansion tank not surge tank.

+1 on the water pump. On the 335D it's mechanical, not electric.

10-28-2019, 08:30 PM	#1
Flight335d New Member 5 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2011 335d +200k Miles Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Charging Malfunction on high mileage 335d When I started my 335d last Monday morning I got a Charging Malfunction warning. I need help confirming the problem and if it is the Alternator as I suspect, I need help with removal procedures. My car is a 2011 335d and has 208K miles, I bought it 18 months ago with 172k miles and tackled CBU cleaning in the first few months thanks to the 335D community and tool rental from Mike. My car is stock, other than the electrical EGR pin #5 delete after CBU cleaning. The alternator appears to be OE with a BMW sticker and Valeo part number. I dont know the batteries history. My steps so far: The next day I checked battery voltage at 12.3v and running voltage was 14.3v. So my first thought was Alternator is ok battery is probably the issue. I start the car the next day let it run for a few minutes no batttery warnings. Start the car that night and get the charging system warning almost immediately. So I charged the battery on 2 amps on a smart charger over night. Next day battery voltage was 13.1v but running voltage quickly started dropping below 12v as the engine ran. I also checked voltage drop from the chassis to the engine and no measurable drop. I also checked running voltage at the Alternator and again 12v and dropping as the engine ran. I visually inspected the harmonic balancer and belt and pully operation while running all seemed fine. The balancer was replaced by the prior owner at about 150K miles 3 years ago. I pulled error codes with a blue driver scan tool and got a Generator Code 4A17. At this point I think the OE Valeo Alternator brushes are simply worn out and I need to replace the Alternator. Is there anything else I should check to confirm the problem is the alternator? If it is the alternator, I need help with removal proceduers. I could not find any vidoes online or DIY posts for removing the 335d alternator. Any and all help from the 335D community is greatly appreciated!
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10-29-2019, 01:43 AM	#2
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 277 Rep 1,574 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	I think you found the source of the issue.
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10-31-2019, 11:26 AM	#3
Nadir Point Lieutenant 103 Rep 579 Posts Drives: Diesel Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO iTrader: (0)	I haven't swapped alternators on a Bimmer yet, but I'm guessing the alternator is going to be straightforward nuts and bolts, unless there's some hidden gotcha, which is of course, always to be expected.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-01-2019, 04:23 PM	#6
Flight335d New Member 5 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2011 335d +200k Miles Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Thanks you alpha papa, I have been scouring the internet looking for information on the procedure for the M57.
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11-08-2019, 03:39 PM	#7
Flight335d New Member 5 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2011 335d +200k Miles Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Thanks to Alpha Pappa for the removal procedures and the members of this forum I was able to fix my charging problem with my 335D. Thought I would close the loop on this thread to help those that find themselves where I was. The alternator was in fact the problem. Once out of the car, I was able to remove the voltage regulator and inspect the slip ring which is what the brushes contact. Sure enough the top contact was black meaning no contact with the brush. Diagnoses confirmed. Decision time, new $240 Valeo alternator or $5 brushes. The bearings felt good so I opted for replacing the brushes. They can be aquired on eBay 4.5 mm x 6.5mm x 15mm. Unfortunately, I was not able to confirm the repair before reassembly as neither Orielys nor Autozone would test it out side the car. So I put it back in. During the removal process I broke the small hose to the surge tank on the upper raditor hose at the conection to the radiator $100. I also noticed the tension pulley was a bit noisy so I replaces that also $50. Since my coolant system was now open I decided to drain the system and replace the coolant. I used Zerex G48. I attempted the water pump cycling procedure for e90's with the heater on, engine off, gass pedal 10 sec.... to get the electric pump to cycle. Not sure if it worked or not. Cranked it up let the bleeder scew out to bleed off some air and then took it out for a short test drive. Seems to be ok. An of course I checked the voltage when running and got the appropriate +14 volts at the battery so she is definately charging. And of course mother BMW did not give me a warning... Thanks again for the help from all of those who responded to my post
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10-31-2019, 01:38 PM	#5
335D Alpha Pappa Second Lieutenant 43 Rep 237 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: NY iTrader: (0)	step-by-step instructions on how to replace the alternator. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-parts/BnAVrmB
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11-08-2019, 05:29 PM	#8
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 277 Rep 1,574 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	There is no electric water pump!!. Glad it's fixed. It's also called an expansion tank not surge tank.
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