[Coupes33]

I know Vince has a very detailed thread in the 1Addict Forum but I thought I might add this one as another alternative. I have just recently removed the OEM bushes in the rear subframe using this tool with no issues. The tool is cheap and consists of parts purchased from Boltmasters and Bunnings. The parts required are:

A Pryda Post Anchor Bolt Down - Heavy Duty, Post 90mm M12, PSBT 90/12 from Bunnings $11.30. A hole needs to be drilled in the middle of the base for the threaded rod to pass through.





A 300mm length of 12mm black 8.8 high tensile threaded rod from Boltmasters. The shortest length that can be purchased is 1m for $4.55. Cut a 300mm length off using a hacksaw. Very easy to saw.



A 120mm x 10mm Galvanised bolt and nut from Bunnings $2.10 for bolt and $0.28 for nut.
One Square Hobkote Hobson M16 65x65x5mm washer - $1.30 @ Bunnings. M12 x 40 Zinc Rod Connector Nut - $1.10 @ Boltmasters.
2 x M12 Zinc Class 8 Hex Nuts - $0.52 @ Boltmasters.
2 x Square Galvanised M12 50x50x3mm washers - $0.98 @ Bunnings.



The threaded rod needs to have some grease on it where the rod connector travels. I used some Penrite Moly Grease that I had on the self.



The assembled tool looks like this.







Tool in use.



The M12 x 40 rod connector, a 12mm washer and M16 65x65x5mm washer are placed on the bottom of the threaded rod and the rod fed through the new hole in the base of the Post Anchor up through the OEM bush. At the top of the bush where the rod protrudes above the bush place the 2 x M12 50x50x3mm washers onto the rod and screw on the 2 x M12 Class 8 Hex Nuts and tighten them together. Begin tightening up the connector nut at the bottom until all of the slack is taken up and then place the M10 x 120mm bolt through the side holes of the Post Anchor closest to the centre and secure and tighten with the nut. This bolt prevents the sides of the Post Anchor from spreading when the tool is under tension. Now the connector nut is continually tightened until the bush is removed. I used a ratchet ring spanner but a normal ring spanner would do the same job.

[jzx_andy]

Thanks for sharing this, I saw Vince's thread on 1Addicts and resolved to go for poly rear subframe bushes before I tackle the rest of the suspension!

[zstreet86]

Were you able to remove all 4 rear subframe bushings without dropping the rear subframe?

[vtl]

Great work there, I found some cars are a bit variable, sometimes requires a lot more force to get them free. WD40 definitely helps getting the bushes out. Even then, my tool was made out of 6mm thick steel bar, yet was bending under the forces, so I had to weld two of them together to make it strong enough for repeated use.
Very crafty solution, especially with that bolt that prevents the legs from deforming outwards and causing the tool to slip off.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by zstreet86

Were you able to remove all 4 rear subframe bushings without dropping the rear subframe?

I removed all 4 bolts holding the rear subframe to the body and dropped it about 75mm (enough room to get the 2 x M12 bolts and washers onto the threaded rod above the bush). I used a trolley jack under the diff to drop the subframe.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by vtl

Great work there, I found some cars are a bit variable, sometimes requires a lot more force to get them free. WD40 definitely helps getting the bushes out. Even then, my tool was made out of 6mm thick steel bar, yet was bending under the forces, so I had to weld two of them together to make it strong enough for repeated use.
Very crafty solution, especially with that bolt that prevents the legs from deforming outwards and causing the tool to slip off.

I agree with the WD40 Vince. I sprayed some onto the top of each bush the night before the bush removal and let it soak in over night. The bushes were fairly easy to remove the next day. On the first bush, the sides to the Post Anchor spread slightly partway through the process and slid off the side of the subframe. Once the bolt was installed to hold the sides from spreading, there were no further issues. I believe the tool could be used repeatedly as there were no signs of any deformity in the Post Anchor structure. In your thread, you mentioned how the cheap threaded rod from Bunnings strips the thread. The 8.8 high tensile thread rod certainly fixes that issue. There were no problems with the thread whatsoever. I believe with the connecting nut being 40mm long also helped.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

I agree with the WD40 Vince. I sprayed some onto the top of each bush the night before the bush removal and let it soak in over night. The bushes were fairly easy to remove the next day. On the first bush, the sides to the Post Anchor spread slightly partway through the process and slid off the side of the subframe. Once the bolt was installed to hold the sides from spreading, there were no further issues. I believe the tool could be used repeatedly as there were no signs of any deformity in the Post Anchor structure. In your thread, you mentioned how the cheap threaded rod from Bunnings strips the thread. The 8.8 high tensile thread rod certainly fixes that issue. There were no problems with the thread whatsoever. I believe with the connecting nut being 40mm long also helped.

Definitely the bunnings junk rod doesn't help, I've since moved to high tensile threaded rod and its much better. The main thing is that the threads dont get bound up with crap, otherwise the threads can be stripped quite easily. Cleaning all the grease off on the threaded rod and reapplying with fresh grease is what I do to avoid any mishaps which can waste a lot of time. I've also been using high tensile coupling nuts too, as they are much stronger and last a lot longer