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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > 2008 335i E92 Dynavin N7 Pro Install



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      01-13-2020, 06:12 PM   #23
bryanp
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Just wanted to thank you for your timely postings. I just ordered all my parts this weekend and then ran across this thread. You've had some helpful tips on what to expect.

Are you saying that the 12v from the head unit for the camera is always on? I was hoping it was switched by the head unit when the camera display is enabled. My plan was to run a line to the trunk lid from that wire and do two relays in an OR configuration to get reverse lights to trigger automatically and to also be able to manually turn on from the head unit. My initial idea was a diode on the camera's lead to that wire, but I was uncertain if the voltage drop would under power the camera. I didn't want to risk sending power in to the N7 Pro. I have a manual without PDC, so any thoughts of a reverse signal from the bus is moot.

What did you do for the mic? I saw a mention in one thread that the factory mic has a plug behind the glove box and they wired a head unit to it. I'm not too keen on fishing a wire through the headliner.

After 8+ years of having a factory radio display that doesn't work above 40 degrees, I'm looking forward to being able to see what station I have on. I'm happy I stumbled upon the Dynavin units. Between how the radio integrates with other electronics in the car and the L7 setup, I thought I was out of luck with aftermarket replacements.
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      01-13-2020, 07:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanp View Post
Just wanted to thank you for your timely postings. I just ordered all my parts this weekend and then ran across this thread. You've had some helpful tips on what to expect.

Are you saying that the 12v from the head unit for the camera is always on? I was hoping it was switched by the head unit when the camera display is enabled. My plan was to run a line to the trunk lid from that wire and do two relays in an OR configuration to get reverse lights to trigger automatically and to also be able to manually turn on from the head unit. My initial idea was a diode on the camera's lead to that wire, but I was uncertain if the voltage drop would under power the camera. I didn't want to risk sending power in to the N7 Pro. I have a manual without PDC, so any thoughts of a reverse signal from the bus is moot.

What did you do for the mic? I saw a mention in one thread that the factory mic has a plug behind the glove box and they wired a head unit to it. I'm not too keen on fishing a wire through the headliner.

After 8+ years of having a factory radio display that doesn't work above 40 degrees, I'm looking forward to being able to see what station I have on. I'm happy I stumbled upon the Dynavin units. Between how the radio integrates with other electronics in the car and the L7 setup, I thought I was out of luck with aftermarket replacements.
Hey there Bryan!

Thanks for the questions! I'll try to hit them real quick for ya!

1. While I had rewired the HU to Camera and Camera to Back up light -via separate relays and keep them electrically isolated from one another, the HU will only pick up the Camera signal on reverse if not connected at all to the 12 VDC Camera Power from the HU. What I ended up doing was just unplugging the relay that connects to the 12 VDC from the HU - as even the presence of the relay being plugged in would cause a current draw of some sort, I think it was 'sensing' a connection. After DC'ing that relay, the camera comes up in reverse perfectly fine!

To be clear: The final configuration with a working backup camera is: Relay in the trunk - connecting trigger/switch terminal to Reverse light 9i used an inline splice). Relay hot to Battery. Relay ground to chassis ground (i used common ground for Relay and Camera Ground- no noise is seen), and normally open contact on the relay to the camera. It works like a charm!

Note: I still only get a single beep from the PDC - although the PDC does update the screen with objects (very nice interface, really liking it)

2. For the Mic, I ran it under the driver dash area, through a-pillar, and on top of the headliner, used the double-sided tape to mount it on the left-hand side of the rearview camera mount, very near the top of the windshield. I almost can't see if from the driver's view. A little bit of wind noise on calls - when traveling 80 ish mph hehe.

the headliner was no big deal at all. Removed the Screws from the Visor and visor 'catch' and it was loose enough to just push the wire in from window side.

Note: I similarly ran the GPS antennae to the passenger side a-pillar. Was able to mount it to the A-pillar 'in front of' (meaning out of the way) of the airbag- same with wiring on both sides.

3. The N7 Pro is really nice so far! Smooth screens and functionality. Good mapping solution (used it a bit today). BT connection to phone for calls or streaming music. Can customize files like pictures and stuff as well. The carplay via I-Link (which was one of the big selling points for me) works very well as well. It really gives you a basic phone interface for a few apps. So can message, call, listen to music apps, or use gps nav directly from the phone. Very handy when you do not want to type in the address while looking at the phone. It gives a pretty clean little interface.

All said: I am super impressed. I have just as much tech or a little more than my 2016 Fusion. The interior feels drastically less dated and much more usable now.

Let me know how the install goes or shoot me any questions if they come up! I will say that the J&T team has been super helpful as well. They even took time from their day to speak to me about my issue and give me some next steps for troubleshooting. Which led to a fully working BU camera!
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      01-13-2020, 08:45 PM   #25
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For future readers of this thread, and to avoid confusion. The relay stuff mentioned in this thread for the backup camera is not a necessity, typically the camera is just powered directly off the reverse light circuit.

The relay thing is because in some cars there can be a lot of noise on that reverse light circuit that can interfere with certain cameras images. BMWs are common offenders. In those cases a relay can be used to power the camera directly off the "clean" battery power and avoid noise issues. Usually this is an "as needed" situation but the OP chose to be proactive about it and installed it from the beginning.
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      01-13-2020, 09:00 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by jeffb335 View Post
For future readers of this thread, and to avoid confusion. The relay stuff mentioned in this thread for the backup camera is not a necessity, typically the camera is just powered directly off the reverse light circuit.

The relay thing is because in some cars there can be a lot of noise on that reverse light circuit that can interfere with certain cameras images. BMWs are common offenders. In those cases, a relay can be used to power the camera directly off the "clean" battery power and avoid noise issues. Usually, this is an "as needed" situation but the OP chose to be proactive about it and installed it from the beginning.
Jeff! That is a great point! Thank you and your team for all the help!!

To piggyback here: I chose the relay route as I wanted to avoid any 'noise' or electrical interference(as Jeff suggests). I also wanted to ensure I was not 'stressing' my Reverse Lighting circuit, by throwing another load on it. This is due to the vehicle being a bit older and just wanting to be proactive with ensuring to be as low impact as I could be for this project. This is not required and (in most instances) would probably be more of an intentional complication for little gain. I just like breaking things - and I am damned good at it!

In this instance, it seems that wiring the 12 VDC from the HU is not needed at all for the Backup Camera to work while in reverse. After removing that connection, the system works as designed!! So the discrepancy and symptoms were caused entirely by me .

Super grateful to the J&T Team for the assistance with questions and troubleshooting this install. I even have some next steps for troubleshooting the PDC Sound. Will post up more on that as I am able to complete those steps!!

Thanks again Jeff and All!
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      01-14-2020, 07:01 AM   #27
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Yet another update germs and jelly-spoons:

Spoke with J&T again, and they advised to swap the MOST channels to the head unit. They were connected to the Fronts. Upon swapping them to the rears, We have PDC Beeps! However, I have been advised that this effectively isolates the Front Channels, so I would be losing the Nav and Phone Call audio. A possible fix for this might be to use some y-splitters, to combine front/rear channels, so the MOST is getting all the sounds!. This should give me full audio functionality! Fun times!!

More to come! Once we get everything said and done, I'll re-write the first entry so that it reflects proper installation methodology as well as any pitfalls to look for/be aware of.

- Thanks!
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      01-17-2020, 08:32 AM   #28
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Well, got the splitters installed, then got the screws for the unit snugged up and the unit is completely installified!!

Everything works amazingly well! Sound quality is great (there are a couple of EQ presets - I might play with it later on, but great for now). The unit is fast and very responsive as well. Touches are met with an immediate response - and sound (which can be turned up/down/off). Settings and interface are pretty intuitive, especially after you get used to the methodology of using the unit. Already got a custom load image on it as well !

Install was actually very smooth and the Assistance from Jeff and Crew over at J&T has been excellent! This really is a plug and play unit! The only 'required' wiring is to a 12 VDC power source. Other than that, the J&T crew send you everything you need to jump in the vehicle take out a few things, then toss in the new unit (with minor modification of the AC controls).

It looks great, works great, and is an awesome addition to my 335i!

Quick update on back up camera as well: Camera is installed with _Only_ the video connection to the HU. I have the Camera is powered by a relay that activates when in reverse. Picture is nice and clear, and the N& PDC incorporation is awesome! Shows the angle of the tires and everything!

Really happy with the unit, the install, and all of the help in getting this running!!

I'll have an update to the post with some pictures of the install steps next week. Some of them will be simulated - as i just didn't take a pic while actually doing the work haha.

Thanks all!
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      01-17-2020, 10:55 AM   #29
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Glad we could help.

When you post your pics go back and edit them into your original post, don't want to loose them to page 2 or 3 of this thread!
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      01-17-2020, 12:18 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jeffb335 View Post
Glad we could help.

When you post your pics go back and edit them into your original post, don't want to loose them to page 2 or 3 of this thread!
Yeppers! I plan on it!

I have one last last last question!! What is the recommended way to get the plugs out of the screw holes? I completely forgot I'll be pulling it back out to run a different USB connection to head unit in a couple of weeks - parts on order and will see if I can fab it up before moving to install. When I get ready to install, I'll need to remove those to get to the mounting screws.

If they can't be salvaged, that's cool, do you guys have a part number I can order for them? I'll get a set or two, for future 'take the dashboard apart' nonsense.

Thanks again!
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      01-17-2020, 04:35 PM   #31
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They are rubber so they will "squish" if you put pressure on them.....so I just use a tiny screwdriver or a pick down the side and pry them out, just dont pry against the hard plastic of the bezel. Let the soft plug deform and pop them out.
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      01-19-2020, 09:38 PM   #32
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I got mine installed this weekend. I agree that if you're just installing the radio with no extras, everything you need is in the box and the install/setup is straight forward. The unit works great and is a nice plug and play modernization to an older car.

Altogether, I think I spent about eight hours (this included cleaning removed trim pieces, vacuuming under the removed rear seat and cleaning up afterwards). Some of that time was not necessary. I removed the glove box (and wasted a bunch of time until I figured out the cup holders hold it in), which really isn't necessary. You can easily fish the power lead through by removing the dash side panel and also fish gps and mic wires through from there without removing the glove box.

The mic install was my biggest fear, and wound up being the quickest and easiest. It's mounted to the side of the rear view mount. The GPS antenna is in the A pillar behind the air bag. I had thought about putting it under the dash, but couldn't get it in from under and didn't want to pop the center speaker grill. It works well in the A pillar.

I also added Sirius radio (I had it with the factory one). I ran a 20' extension cable from the factory antenna. That was more than long enough. I saw pictures showing the factory Sirius radio in the back left of the trunk. Mine was in center (and I've since found several posts locating it there). If you're trying to connect to the factory antenna, first check in the trunk floor. You'll save a lot of time putting the side lining back. I am getting alternator whine when listening to Satellite. I'm guessing that's from running the antenna wire along with the power on the passenger side. I need to move that to the drivers side and hope that fixes the issue. My factory satellite harness had two antenna connectors (this was apparently changed to one in all cars built after 3/2006). I picked one and it works. When listening to Sirius, it only displays the channel/song/artist. There is no artwork displayed. You can pause and restart the current song.

I used a cheap trunk handle rear camera. This gave me some self inflicted time wasted. The one I bought has a large plastic sleeve where the reverse light leads join the wires. I managed to short it when trying to get through the inside of the trunk. I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose why the camera was only getting a black screen until I just finally decided to bend that plastic piece and the picture popped on the screen. What I did learn is that my car (2006 330i, manual transmission and no pdc) does give a reverse signal to the head unit. I also get wheel direction and dynamic parking lines. Wiring the camera directly to the reverse lights as Jeff mentioned would be the quickest and easiest way to go. Reviews for my camera all recommended using a relay so I used one. The maker also included a relay in the box (from reviews, that was a new edition). My cable tube from the car to trunk lid was too tight to even fit a coat hanger through. I zip tied my wires to the outside of it and poked slits through the boot on both ends. I'm going to buy a wire wrap to put around it and probably use some silicon caulking around the slits. I also ran a second line from the red 12v on the headunit to power a second relay. This did work. I get both automatic reverse camera when I put the car in reverse, and I can manually turn on the camera by switching to it on the head unit. I confirmed there is only 12v coming from the headunit when the unit is switched to camera. I don't know if I'll ever use the manual option, but it was neat that I could make it work.

My car has the L7 system. The directions for how to hook that up were thin. It took me a while to figure out I needed to unclip the optical input on the Dynavin MOS box and remove the inserted grey coupling. Once I did that, I was able to pop in the factory double optical plug, I also spent time trying to figure out what to plug in to the other side of the MOS adapter. It appears it's just an extra socket. All I connected was the optical plug and the harness block from the main Dynavin one.

I also wasted a lot of time trying to get the cigarette lighter out of the old ashtray. I eventually just pushed really hard with a slotted screw driver in the clear plastic slot on the backside. I was initially afraid it would break doing that, but there was no other obvious way to get it out. In the new ashtray assembly, the door will not close if you put the actual lighter in the socket. If you need to put in a usb charger, the socket is there for convenience.

I bought the flush USB plug from jandtdistributing. This mounted really well in the back side of the center console tray (the one where iDrive would go).

The one aspect that disappoints me is the loss of the fader control (with factory L7 amp). I prefer a more forward sound stage with some back fill versus being surrounded. The MOS adapter only takes a left and right connection. The FAQ on jandtdistributing does state this.

The other thing to figure out is if there's a way to sync the time from the N7 to the car. It's annoying seeing --:-- on the car's display.

Saving FM stations is labeling them in the presets as whatever song was playing at the time I saved it. I've not figured out how to get it either be the station/frequency or to auto-refresh.

The steering wheel controls can flip saved radio/satellite stations. They do not allow me to change tracks over bt or usb/android audio. The volume ones always work. The phone buttons also work. The source and circle buttons do nothing.

I do have the SOS error. I'm going to read up on programming this week so I can turn that off. Alternatively, I could probably mount the factory headunit in the trunk with the Satellite opticals or with a y mos cable from it.

That's about all I can think about posting right now. It's a nice upgrade and I'm happy. I think that someone with little experience and doing things straight forward could easily be done in 2-4 hours. Removing/replacing trim to run the power line is the most time consuming aspect.
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      01-20-2020, 08:52 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanp View Post
I got mine installed this weekend. I agree that if you're just installing the radio with no extras, everything you need is in the box and the install/setup is straight forward. The unit works great and is a nice plug and play modernization to an older car.

Altogether, I think I spent about eight hours (this included cleaning removed trim pieces, vacuuming under the removed rear seat and cleaning up afterwards). Some of that time was not necessary. I removed the glove box (and wasted a bunch of time until I figured out the cup holders hold it in), which really isn't necessary. You can easily fish the power lead through by removing the dash side panel and also fish gps and mic wires through from there without removing the glove box.

The mic install was my biggest fear, and wound up being the quickest and easiest. It's mounted to the side of the rear view mount. The GPS antenna is in the A pillar behind the air bag. I had thought about putting it under the dash, but couldn't get it in from under and didn't want to pop the center speaker grill. It works well in the A pillar.

I also added Sirius radio (I had it with the factory one). I ran a 20' extension cable from the factory antenna. That was more than long enough. I saw pictures showing the factory Sirius radio in the back left of the trunk. Mine was in center (and I've since found several posts locating it there). If you're trying to connect to the factory antenna, first check in the trunk floor. You'll save a lot of time putting the side lining back. I am getting alternator whine when listening to Satellite. I'm guessing that's from running the antenna wire along with the power on the passenger side. I need to move that to the drivers side and hope that fixes the issue. My factory satellite harness had two antenna connectors (this was apparently changed to one in all cars built after 3/2006). I picked one and it works. When listening to Sirius, it only displays the channel/song/artist. There is no artwork displayed. You can pause and restart the current song.

I used a cheap trunk handle rear camera. This gave me some self inflicted time wasted. The one I bought has a large plastic sleeve where the reverse light leads join the wires. I managed to short it when trying to get through the inside of the trunk. I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose why the camera was only getting a black screen until I just finally decided to bend that plastic piece and the picture popped on the screen. What I did learn is that my car (2006 330i, manual transmission and no pdc) does give a reverse signal to the head unit. I also get wheel direction and dynamic parking lines. Wiring the camera directly to the reverse lights as Jeff mentioned would be the quickest and easiest way to go. Reviews for my camera all recommended using a relay so I used one. The maker also included a relay in the box (from reviews, that was a new edition). My cable tube from the car to trunk lid was too tight to even fit a coat hanger through. I zip tied my wires to the outside of it and poked slits through the boot on both ends. I'm going to buy a wire wrap to put around it and probably use some silicon caulking around the slits. I also ran a second line from the red 12v on the headunit to power a second relay. This did work. I get both automatic reverse camera when I put the car in reverse, and I can manually turn on the camera by switching to it on the head unit. I confirmed there is only 12v coming from the headunit when the unit is switched to camera. I don't know if I'll ever use the manual option, but it was neat that I could make it work.

My car has the L7 system. The directions for how to hook that up were thin. It took me a while to figure out I needed to unclip the optical input on the Dynavin MOS box and remove the inserted grey coupling. Once I did that, I was able to pop in the factory double optical plug, I also spent time trying to figure out what to plug in to the other side of the MOS adapter. It appears it's just an extra socket. All I connected was the optical plug and the harness block from the main Dynavin one.

I also wasted a lot of time trying to get the cigarette lighter out of the old ashtray. I eventually just pushed really hard with a slotted screw driver in the clear plastic slot on the backside. I was initially afraid it would break doing that, but there was no other obvious way to get it out. In the new ashtray assembly, the door will not close if you put the actual lighter in the socket. If you need to put in a usb charger, the socket is there for convenience.

I bought the flush USB plug from jandtdistributing. This mounted really well in the back side of the center console tray (the one where iDrive would go).

The one aspect that disappoints me is the loss of the fader control (with factory L7 amp). I prefer a more forward sound stage with some back fill versus being surrounded. The MOS adapter only takes a left and right connection. The FAQ on jandtdistributing does state this.

The other thing to figure out is if there's a way to sync the time from the N7 to the car. It's annoying seeing --:-- on the car's display.

Saving FM stations is labeling them in the presets as whatever song was playing at the time I saved it. I've not figured out how to get it either be the station/frequency or to auto-refresh.

The steering wheel controls can flip saved radio/satellite stations. They do not allow me to change tracks over bt or usb/android audio. The volume ones always work. The phone buttons also work. The source and circle buttons do nothing.

I do have the SOS error. I'm going to read up on programming this week so I can turn that off. Alternatively, I could probably mount the factory headunit in the trunk with the Satellite opticals or with a y mos cable from it.

That's about all I can think about posting right now. It's a nice upgrade and I'm happy. I think that someone with little experience and doing things straight forward could easily be done in 2-4 hours. Removing/replacing trim to run the power line is the most time consuming aspect.
Great write up! Glad to hear it went through nicely for you!!

For the 'Only two connected from MOST adapter' issue: I ran a pair of splitters and that has worked well for me. Sound quality is great, and I get full surround of PDC and Voice/Nav oriented stuff.

For the 'Camera' selected from the N7 menu - I did the same. I eventually found that I had connected the Camera trigger wire on the back of the HU to the wire coming from my camera cable. This was causing some issues. Once I removed this, all was well. I am also running two relays - good clear video signal during day and night. However, I have both relays in the trunk.

I had the same kind of issue for the Camera connections to the trunk lid - as I used a trunk handle camera. I have not decided on the 'fix' I'll use yet, but it is temporarily protected with some loom wrap and electrical tape. I did put some tape around wires at the points where they can 'rub' against metal, for just a bit of protection until I figure it out. I might just vertically cut the existing boot thew wires are in and then zip tie it closed or use loom wrap or maybe just tape it closed.

For the USB connection: I plan on using a blanking plate in the center armrest. I am going to try and get two connections on it - one for the carplay and one for regular media - I'm thinking of using a USB 3.0 cable for the carplay and 2.0 for media - not for functionality, but the ease of identifying which is which haha. I have also read of a few wireless carplay adapters. I might try one out in a few months, but I am really liking that functionality. With the super responsive N7 screen, carplay works great and really like it.

I may be using the extra ashtray in the future, to add some aux circuits. If I do, I might run a USB to that as well, but i do like having 2 12 vdc dedicated plugs in there. Maybe not needed, but good to have, just in case lol.


I have been looking at one of the unicarscan obd2 readers or similar and getting the bimmercode app. I see a lot of people have good experience on our models, vice newer ones sometimes haha. There are a few things I would like to code and it would be nice to get it done easily haha.

Thanks again for the great write up!! How about a pic too!? Grats on the new system!
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Next up: Rear Breaks, replace some worn internal trim panels, USB retro-fit for Carplay and Media connection to N7, then onto the engine!!
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      01-22-2020, 01:49 PM   #34
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When you say, "I just finally decided to bend that plastic piece and the picture popped on the screen",

What are you referring too?
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      01-22-2020, 02:22 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
When you say, "I just finally decided to bend that plastic piece and the picture popped on the screen",

What are you referring too?
I think he is referring to the in-line splice that was used: Bent the plastic piece to the point that the contacts 'bit' into the wires.
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      01-23-2020, 01:25 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by activereality View Post
I think he is referring to the in-line splice that was used: Bent the plastic piece to the point that the contacts 'bit' into the wires.
Yep. I don't know how long that will remain in a working condition. I'll likely need to cut open that hard plastic at some point and properly splice everything together. Less effort (and cost) than removing all the trim and running the wire for a new camera (that may or may not also have a connector too big to easily thread in to the trunk lid).

The camera I used was https://www.amazon.com/Weivision-Col...010I2QH24?th=1 . One review did mention the plug size issue.
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      01-23-2020, 09:51 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanp View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by activereality View Post
I think he is referring to the in-line splice that was used: Bent the plastic piece to the point that the contacts 'bit' into the wires.
Yep. I don't know how long that will remain in a working condition. I'll likely need to cut open that hard plastic at some point and properly splice everything together. Less effort (and cost) than removing all the trim and running the wire for a new camera (that may or may not also have a connector too big to easily thread in to the trunk lid).

The camera I used was https://www.amazon.com/Weivision-Col...010I2QH24?th=1 . One review did mention the plug size issue.
So, the pins aren't contacting properly?
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      01-23-2020, 10:28 AM   #38
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Those "scotchlok" (3M's brand name for the real ones) type of electrical connectors are nothing but trouble....especially the cheap knock-offs found online and at discount auto parts stores. I get at least a call a week from someone who's camera is not working, we go around and around troubleshooting, and its always a bad connection using a knock-off scotchlok. Don't use them.

Solder if you have the right tools, materials, and skills, or crimp connectors if you don't. Either will save you lots of time in the long run over a temperamental scotchlok.
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      01-23-2020, 11:35 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by jeffb335 View Post
Those "scotchlok" (3M's brand name for the real ones) type of electrical connectors are nothing but trouble....especially the cheap knock-offs found online and at discount auto parts stores. I get at least a call a week from someone who's camera is not working, we go around and around troubleshooting, and its always a bad connection using a knock-off scotchlok. Don't use them.

Solder if you have the right tools, materials, and skills, or crimp connectors if you don't. Either will save you lots of time in the long run over a temperamental scotchlok.
Ok. So, we are talking about the black connectors that have small pins, which connect from the camera to the the wiring harness (for a lack of better terms) that goes to the back up lights, relay & eventually to the back of the N7. Typically, the black connector is mounted with duck tape or tin tape in the liner of the trunk door.

I'm just verifying. Not trying to be smart. 😉
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      01-23-2020, 12:14 PM   #40
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Thats not what I am talking about although Im not SURE what "bryanp" is talking about above. I thought he was talking about making the connection to the reverse light circuit, he used a flaky connector that if he puts pressure on it, it makes a connection. Sounds like a scotchlok style splice connector, so my response about scotchlok style connections is related to that. Could be wrong.

I think you are thinking he is talking about a part of the wiring that was included in his camera.



Either way, the take away is to make sure your wiring is solid!
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      01-23-2020, 01:03 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by jeffb335 View Post
Those "scotchlok" (3M's brand name for the real ones) type of electrical connectors are nothing but trouble....especially the cheap knock-offs found online and at discount auto parts stores. I get at least a call a week from someone who's camera is not working, we go around and around troubleshooting, and its always a bad connection using a knock-off scotchlok. Don't use them.

Solder if you have the right tools, materials, and skills, or crimp connectors if you don't. Either will save you lots of time in the long run over a temperamental scotchlok.
Hmm, I like the crimping it into a pin (create a conector to combine them into one pin- then the single line/dual line out- depending on how you want to do it). Makes it much more 'plug and play' and easier to service if removal is needed.

Now to look into the connector types, and find one with a jumper, or create a jumper. I love it!
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      01-23-2020, 07:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by activereality View Post
I think he is referring to the in-line splice that was used: Bent the plastic piece to the point that the contacts 'bit' into the wires.
Yep. I don't know how long that will remain in a working condition. I'll likely need to cut open that hard plastic at some point and properly splice everything together. Less effort (and cost) than removing all the trim and running the wire for a new camera (that may or may not also have a connector too big to easily thread in to the trunk lid).

The camera I used was https://www.amazon.com/Weivision-Col...010I2QH24?th=1 . One review did mention the plug size issue.
That's the one I have & it turns on intermittently once in a while. Other than that I just get a black screen.

🤔

I've gone through all the connections & I can't find where the connection issue is
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      01-23-2020, 07:36 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
That's the one I have & it turns on intermittently once in a while. Other than that I just get a black screen.

🤔

I've gone through all the connections & I can't find where the connection issue is
Sorry to hear man. Yeah sounds like it might be best giving it a better 'hardwired' connection.
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      01-24-2020, 08:21 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by activereality View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
That's the one I have & it turns on intermittently once in a while. Other than that I just get a black screen.

🤔

I've gone through all the connections & I can't find where the connection issue is
Sorry to hear man. Yeah sounds like it might be best giving it a better 'hardwired' connection.
Are you talking about the plastic, cylinder shaped connection that has 4 pins from the camera?
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