[waikiki35]

Hey guys,
Is it possible to access and adjust the front turbo actuator rod?
The rear one is easy to reach, unfortunately, it is the front one that is giving me a rattle issue on deceleration..

I did some research but I can't find any good information.

So how would I proceed to access it? from the bottom or the top? what all needs to be removed?

I really hope there is a way to do it without taking the turbo off the car...

[JStang]

Originally Posted by waikiki35

Hey guys,
Is it possible to access and adjust the front turbo actuator rod?
The rear one is easy to reach, unfortunately, it is the front one that is giving me a rattle issue on deceleration..

I did some research but I can't find any good information.

So how would I proceed to access it? from the bottom or the top? what all needs to be removed?

I really hope there is a way to do it without taking the turbo off the car...

I don't think the front is possible without removing the turbo. Good luck! I need to try to adjust my rear and I am hoping that is the one causing the rattle.

[Tzu]

Yes, there is a way to do it. But you have to remove many components for access, and it's about a 6 hour job. JamesM3M5 made a detailed thread about it, and a few of us did it following that thread. It's a serious PITA.

[Nigelo]

Shame someone couldn't make a handy tool to adjust it. Me, I'm useless.

[waikiki35]

Originally Posted by Tzu

Yes, there is a way to do it. But you have to remove many components for access, and it's about a 6 hour job. JamesM3M5 made a detailed thread about it, and a few of us did it following that thread. It's a serious PITA.

So what is my best bet? going in from top of the car with intercooler removed and detaching the actuator from the bracket like in JamesM3M5 DIY,
or going in from underneath the car, remove downpipes, take the c-clip of the wastegate arm , pop the actuator rod off so i can turn it to adjust it, then replace it on the wastegate arm?

[Rob@RBTurbo]

In order to effectively adjust the actuators you really need the downpipes off. At that point the rear unit is very easy to adjust. The front unit I'd recommend trying to use washers under the actuator mount at the bolt locations to get the correct adjustment. Accessing the mounting bolts is much easier.

[waikiki35]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

In order to effectively adjust the actuators you really need the downpipes off. At that point the rear unit is very easy to adjust. The front unit I'd recommend trying to use washers under the actuator mount at the bolt locations to get the correct adjustment. Accessing the mounting bolts is much easier.

How do I access the mounting bolts? from the bottom or the top of the engine? Also what all needs to be removed to access them?

Thanks!

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by waikiki35

How do I access the mounting bolts? from the bottom or the top of the engine? Also what all needs to be removed to access them?

Thanks!

You access from the front. You will need to remove the front intake tube I believe. Personally have never done it this way, just thinking aloud is something to consider as it seems it would be much easier than getting to that turnbuckle which is between the turbo and the engine block. And yes from the wear the actuator becomes loose, so pulling it back via shims (washers) should get you back in range. You may have to experiment with washer quantities and thicknesses to get your adjustment spot on. Let us know how it goes, worse comes to worse you may have to pull the turbo to do it the proper way (or fiddle with it for hours on end doing it the other way which can also work).

Rob

[waikiki35]

Thanks for your help man. whenever I get time , I will work on it and repost back on here to let you guys know if this method worked..

I'm still kind of confused when you say from the front... front standing on top of the engine, front laying underneath the car?

I just got this car and haven't wrenchend on it yet..( where my confusion comes from)

I'll keep y'all posted!

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by waikiki35

Thanks for your help man. whenever I get time , I will work on it and repost back on here to let you guys know if this method worked..

I'm still kind of confused when you say from the front... front standing on top of the engine, front laying underneath the car?

I just got this car and haven't wrenchend on it yet..( where my confusion comes from)

I'll keep y'all posted!

From the frontmost side of the engine (ie. frontmost side of car, front bumper side, head light side, etc). You really will figure more out as you take a look at it.

Good luck,
Rob

[007_e350]

I just did it this sunday - its not hard if u take out the DPs
I'd also check vaccum lines

[JamesM3M5]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715052

I did it on my own car, and we've done it on other 335s as well. Cliff notes: Remove water pump and thermostat, have small 1/4" drive tools and nice 10mm wrench, and Mityvac or other vacuum pump WITH gauge. It can be done without removal of the exhaust/DPs. It is not easy, and it took me about 5 hours start to finish including refilling and bleeding coolant system.

[HeavyMetalRocker]

Hey Rob, or anyone for that matter, what diameter washer will fit the arm? I'll have my car on the lift for a downpipe install Saturday so going prepared will be nice!

[waikiki35]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

I just did it this sunday - its not hard if u take out the DPs
I'd also check vaccum lines

Did you do it Rob's way with the washers or pulled the Dp's and took the actuator rod of the wastegate shaft?

Rob, Do I just pull on the front intake tube to get it off the turbo and just push it back on there somehow? if so is there any oring or gasket I have to replace?

[BMWM.D.]

You can definitely adjust the front rod with the turbo on the car, but like others have said, it isn't easy. The best way to make any adjustments is to remove the downpipes so you can accurately see how tight/loose the wastegate flapper is when adjusting. Otherwise, it's kind of a guessing game.

On a side note, the C-clip on the front turbo is a cunt. You CAN get it off, make adjustments to the rod, and put it back on -- but it sucks. It's even worse if you have an '07-early '08 car that has the tiny C-clips. I've lost a few of them myself.

I like Rob's washer/shim idea better. You might be able to do that without removing the water pump. The intake tube is in the way, though. Remove that, and I think you might be able to get to the 3 nuts that hold the actuator to it's bracket. Or you could maybe even shim the bracket itself.

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by waikiki35

Did you do it Rob's way with the washers or pulled the Dp's and took the actuator rod of the wastegate shaft?

Rob, Do I just pull on the front intake tube to get it off the turbo and just push it back on there somehow? if so is there any oring or gasket I have to replace?

There is a grommet that seals the intake duct to the turbo. It's number 2 in this pic: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...84&hg=13&fg=20

It's held onto the turbo with a bolt, and there are a few other bolts that secure it to the head. I don't think it's required to replace that seal, but it wouldn't be a bad idea while it's apart.

[waikiki35]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

You can definitely adjust the front rod with the turbo on the car, but like others have said, it isn't easy. The best way to make any adjustments is to remove the downpipes so you can accurately see how tight/loose the wastegate flapper is when adjusting. Otherwise, it's kind of a guessing game.

On a side note, the C-clip on the front turbo is a cunt. You CAN get it off, make adjustments to the rod, and put it back on -- but it sucks. It's even worse if you have an '07-early '08 car that has the tiny C-clips. I've lost a few of them myself.

I like Rob's washer/shim idea better. You might be able to do that without removing the water pump. The intake tube is in the way, though. Remove that, and I think you might be able to get to the 3 nuts that hold the actuator to it's bracket. Or you could maybe even shim the bracket itself.

Are the downpipes in the way at all or do I have to remove them just to observe the wastegate? ( if it is just to look at the wastegate, I would rather not... I can hear when the wastegate hit its seat with the mityvac.. around 8.5hg right now instead of 5.9hg)

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by waikiki35

Are the downpipes in the way at all or do I have to remove them just to observe the wastegate? ( if it is just to look at the wastegate, I would rather not... I can hear when the wastegate hit its seat with the mityvac.. around 8.5hg right now instead of 5.9hg)

It's really just so you can physically spin the flapper to check for resistance/adjustment. You want it to be snug with some resistance, but you should still be able to spin it with your fingers. If you can't spin it at all by hand, it's too tight. I usually use 9 in. hg of vacuum and adjust as needed with the procedure above.

[waikiki35]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

It's really just so you can physically spin the flapper to check for resistance/adjustment. You want it to be snug with some resistance, but you should still be able to spin it with your fingers. If you can't spin it at all by hand, it's too tight. I usually use 9 in. hg of vacuum and adjust as needed with the procedure above.

alright got it. thanks for your help man.

hopefully i can jack the car up soon and see how i can put all these advices in practice!

[JamesM3M5]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

It's really just so you can physically spin the flapper to check for resistance/adjustment. You want it to be snug with some resistance, but you should still be able to spin it with your fingers. If you can't spin it at all by hand, it's too tight. I usually use 9 in. hg of vacuum and adjust as needed with the procedure above.

Why so much vacuum? The spec is 200mbar, or 5.9inHg. The solenoids maintain approx 6-7inHg vacuum, which is why they rattle badly when the WGs are not closed by that point.

[waikiki35]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Why so much vacuum? The spec is 200mbar, or 5.9inHg. The solenoids maintain approx 6-7inHg vacuum, which is why they rattle badly when the WGs are not closed by that point.

I figured he forgot a "5." in front of the 9 haha.

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by waikiki35

Did you do it Rob's way with the washers or pulled the Dp's and took the actuator rod of the wastegate shaft?

Rob, Do I just pull on the front intake tube to get it off the turbo and just push it back on there somehow? if so is there any oring or gasket I have to replace?

What are you talking abt man ? Just pull the DPs (its not hard if u unbolt the steering rack) and then u see the turbo's naked. Take a 8 mm I think it was, spanner and tighten the bolt on that rod (it has only one bolt, the other end goes inside the actuator). Make sure u tighten it and not loose it (watch the thread). Rear is easier coz of more room. Front take a few time to turn but is totally do-able. The hard part is taking off DPs (spray parts breaker few hrs in adv).