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      01-07-2019, 02:39 PM   #1
bsad0521
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Front control arm replacement

Hey I'm going to replace my front upper control arms with M3 ones and was just wondering how you guys loaded the suspension before torqueing them down to spec to avoid premature wear on the bushing. Thanks.
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      01-07-2019, 02:46 PM   #2
Pittz1
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Use a jack. Get it to the approximate ride height level and torque to spec. I just did this on my SRT and went flawless.
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      01-09-2019, 10:14 AM   #3
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Tighten the bolts to 55lbs
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      01-09-2019, 11:28 AM   #4
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There's a constant discussion on this. If you have a 2post lift, preload it with a jack just before the point it lifts that corner off.

If you're on jack stands, there is nothing really wrong with loosely securing the arm and then torquing them in place once you've set it on the ground. Honestly you could do that off a lift too once you touch it down.
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      01-09-2019, 11:45 AM   #5
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I'll be doing mine on jack stands, but plan on putting the front wheels back on and setting them on ramps before torquing things down.
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      01-15-2019, 10:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
I'll be doing mine on jack stands, but plan on putting the front wheels back on and setting them on ramps before torquing things down.
That's how I plan to do mine. I'm afraid the weight won't be the same from corner to corner using a jack to "raise to ride height".
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      01-15-2019, 01:40 PM   #7
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Did this over the last weekend - After putting the car on jackstands, I jacked up the bottom of the control arm connecting to the wheel hub to the point where it was slightly lifted off of the jackstand so the weight of that corner was being lifted up by the jack, meaning the suspension is loaded as if the car was on the ground (if you want, put bags of sand / other weight to simulate occupant weight too).

I found it difficult to torque the bolts with the wheels installed. At the front, 76 lb fts for both control arms to the subframe and 122 lb ft control arm to the wheel hub should be correct - but you should double check.

I misunderstood the torque specs at first and overtightened at the subframe - to 122lbft, it was causing a lot of understeer and probably wasn't good for the control arm bushings either
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      04-27-2019, 10:19 PM   #8
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Hi, I did this and drove my 2009 328i up on front ramps, then used a jack to further raise one wheel at a time to replace each control and tension arm. Then lowered the wheel to the ramp to torque it. I do have steel ramps which have a removable ramp to the wheel support stand so my jack fit behind the stand. Worked very easy and felt quite safe. Unfortunately these cars are so low you cannot access anything when it is flat on the ground.

Cheers,
David. 2009 328i. 134k
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      04-28-2019, 12:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsad0521 View Post
Hey I'm going to replace my front upper control arms with M3 ones and was just wondering how you guys loaded the suspension before torqueing them down to spec to avoid premature wear on the bushing. Thanks.
Make sure to go back in after 1 month and re-torque the nuts.
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      05-01-2019, 08:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
There's a constant discussion on this. If you have a 2post lift, preload it with a jack just before the point it lifts that corner off.

If you're on jack stands, there is nothing really wrong with loosely securing the arm and then torquing them in place once you've set it on the ground. Honestly you could do that off a lift too once you touch it down.
Ok but what is so different being on stands vs a lift that you can't do the same as on a lift and jack up the knuckle?
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      05-01-2019, 09:44 AM   #11
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You COULD clamp the wheel you're working at in place then jack up the other side of the car about 5 or 6 feet, until the arm you're working at is equal to level.
Or roll the car over and push down on the arm you're tightening....

I think the how matters less than the why. As long as you're safely using the equipment at your disposal to do your best to avoid preloading the bushing while the car is sat level, you'll be ok.

Mweisdorfer
Good tip about going back a month later to recheck the torque. I didn't know that and I did mine about a month ago!

Also, if you're going to roll the car over, put down a towel or something first.
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      05-01-2019, 08:39 PM   #12
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Torquing down the various control arms under load is the key. I've used my jack to push the hub up to ride height. I've had my M3 control arms for 4 years now. No issues.

You need to find the ride height. It will be different with a lowered car: especially if you are going from a stock suspension to say the B12 kit for example.

You measure from the bottom of the front quarter panel to the center of the hub while the car's wheels are still on, before you put it in jack stands.

Then use that measurement when jacking up the hub.

A 3 ton hydraulic jack will provide plenty of pressure on the hub when moving it to ride height for a proper torquing of the control arms to occur.
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