[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

Ciao salpone, ma da dove sei precisamente? 😁

I'll answer in english so that others also can understand..



I have described everything pretty much detailed a few posts up with pics included.

To summarize once again:

- you have to buy/produce eccentrical bushings like the ones that you see on the pics (a few pages back I uploaded precise measurements), remove the original bushings and press the new ones in, it's pretty straightforward..

- buy e60 345mm rear brake discs (Zimmermann is the only one that has slotted ones)

- cut the dust shield with an angle grinder so that it fits your new bigger calipers (I used the description that someone also uploaded a few pages back)

- mount everything back just like any other stock caliper, bleed the system

- admire how much prettier your car is, and hit yourself over the head because you didn't do this conversion sooner


Don't forget: you won't be able to use 18" stock e9x wheels any more (only F30 or some aftermarket), and even for the stock 19" wheels you'll need a 10mm spacer on the rears..

If you get stuck hit me up on FB (Mihael Tutic)

So even with the 340 fronts and 2 piston rears OEM 17" and 18" with et35 or less wont fit? I already have 15mm spacers all around. I thought I saw some most pictures of these brakes pairs with OEM 17" et34 wheels? I'm just trying to figure out if the rear wheels will clear the calipers. If not I'll install them after winter since I have brand new Hakkas on the 285 style stocks. I test mounted the fronts and seems to clear the 340 calipers just fine.

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

So even with the 340 fronts and 2 piston rears OEM 17" and 18" with et35 or less wont fit? I already have 15mm spacers all around. I thought I saw some most pictures of these brakes pairs with OEM 17" et34 wheels? I'm just trying to figure out if the rear wheels will clear the calipers. If not I'll install them after winter since I have brand new Hakkas on the 285 style stocks. I test mounted the fronts and seems to clear the 340 calipers just fine.

TBH I haven't tried to mount the rears in combination with 18" wheels, went directly to 19", but logic says that it should be just fine..

Pretty much positive that 17" wheels won't fit..

The 340mm fronts should be ok with 18", even on the 370mm is just a matter of 0.5mm

[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

TBH I haven't tried to mount the rears in combination with 18" wheels, went directly to 19", but logic says that it should be just fine..

Pretty much positive that 17" wheels won't fit..

The 340mm fronts should be ok with 18", even on the 370mm is just a matter of 0.5mm

Thanks, I know the 17s do work with 340 front. Maybe I'll just try one side this month to see what happens, I can always throw the stock caliper back on if it doesn't work. But potentially looks like another winter setup!

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

Thanks, I know the 17s do work with 340 front. Maybe I'll just try one side this month to see what happens, I can always throw the stock caliper back on if it doesn't work. But potentially looks like another winter setup!

You don't have to disconnect your stock caliper only to try fitment, just zip tie it until you're over to release tension on the brake lines..

If it was me, I would survive this winter on the 17s that you already got, and huy some new 18" for next winter.

I live near the alps and do approximately 50k miles per year, never ever have I had a problem on snow, and I use my car to go snowboarding and everything.. 225/40/18 and 255/35/18 combo, so don't be skeptical about bigger winter tyres..

this year I'll try the 19", should be no difference at all.

[salpone]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

Ciao salpone, ma da dove sei precisamente? 😁

I'll answer in english so that others also can understand..



I have described everything pretty much detailed a few posts up with pics included.

To summarize once again:

- you have to buy/produce eccentrical bushings like the ones that you see on the pics (a few pages back I uploaded precise measurements), remove the original bushings and press the new ones in, it's pretty straightforward..

- buy e60 345mm rear brake discs (Zimmermann is the only one that has slotted ones)

- cut the dust shield with an angle grinder so that it fits your new bigger calipers (I used the description that someone also uploaded a few pages back)

- mount everything back just like any other stock caliper, bleed the system

- admire how much prettier your car is, and hit yourself over the head because you didn't do this conversion sooner


Don't forget: you won't be able to use 18" stock e9x wheels any more (only F30 or some aftermarket), and even for the stock 19" wheels you'll need a 10mm spacer on the rears..

If you get stuck hit me up on FB (Mihael Tutic)

hello I'm from Calabria
my car is a 320d so the rear wheel hub may be different from the 335.
I eltto someone has made changes to the E series but have only modified the bell for the handbrake and moved the caliper forward (or the disc) but never read that the caliper is higher with the bushings.
however, it is true with the E60 zimmerman's disk is better only that they do it only drilled and not with steps.

[alex35i]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

I finally found some time and mounted the fronts, bedded them in and for now it´s a noticable difference, cannot wait to mount the rears this weekend.


4 calipers 1 cup





OEM 335d brakes vs. 370mm





Fronts mounted!





Someone asked before how to best remove the inserts from the rear calipers, well I found that the best way is to screw in a bolt (you can use old wheel bolts) and hammer it out, they come out pretty easily, I used a wooden hammer myself.








And the final result!
TBH, I kinda fell in love in my car all over again!







Expect more updates of how the rears fit on saturday!

Did you switch to m3 master cylinder as well? or just use stock master cylinder with a brake bleeding?

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by alex35i

Did you switch to m3 master cylinder as well? or just use stock master cylinder with a brake bleeding?

For the moment using it with stock master, when properly bleeded is not so dramatic as some described it, maybw not as progressive but still firm, I don't hate it..
Maybe it has something to do with the braided steel brake lines and Motul RBF fluid?!

But as I already bought it, I will probably do the swap in a couple of months together with the M3 steering rack..

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

For the moment using it with stock master, when properly bleeded is not so dramatic as some described it, maybw not as progressive but still firm, I don't hate it..
Maybe it has something to do with the braided steel brake lines and Motul RBF fluid?!

But as I already bought it, I will probably do the swap in a couple of months together with the M3 steering rack..

Not a bad job to do the MS, 45 min tops. Just watch the adjustable brake light sensor on the inside of firewall by pedal, as I knocked it out of alignment with brake light staying on... so double check that before panel goes back on.

[salpone]

I have a series E 92 but 320d
the problem I have at the rear wheel is:
- my handbrake drum has an internal diameter of 160mm, so with disc for series 3 I go well for the handbrake ............... ..... disk height is 66mm and it's not good because I have to bring the Msport plier out more, right?

[/url]



- not to put the Msport caliper forward, I have to mount the E60 series 5 disc, which has a disc height of 63mm and that's fine, but it has the 180mm handbrake drum, so my handbrake drum .... .do not brake.




what better solution?
. do I make a bush and do I make the E60 disc drum from 180 to 160 small?
- Do I take a danzas and take the caliper outwards and mount E9x disc?
thank you

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by salpone

I have a series E 92 but 320d
the problem I have at the rear wheel is:
- my handbrake drum has an internal diameter of 160mm, so with disc for series 3 I go well for the handbrake ............... ..... disk height is 66mm and it's not good because I have to bring the Msport plier out more, right?

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/fyxNV8PZ/SGPhot...8-08-45-26.jpg[/img]



- not to put the Msport caliper forward, I have to mount the E60 series 5 disc, which has a disc height of 63mm and that's fine, but it has the 180mm handbrake drum, so my handbrake drum .... .do not brake.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/wx0KGsdw/SGPhot...8-08-54-12.jpg[/img]


what better solution?
. do I make a bush and do I make the E60 disc drum from 180 to 160 small?
- Do I take a danzas and take the caliper outwards and mount E9x disc?
thank you

Thats an easy fix, I spaced them out by welding on new larger shoes. I did this to mine a long time ago. Look 10-15 pages back on this thread and you will see picture/link. If your offset is pretty small, you can leave it or use spacers like you said. Also better to upsize drum shoes, so you have more disc options come replacement time.

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by salpone

I have a series E 92 but 320d
the problem I have at the rear wheel is:
- my handbrake drum has an internal diameter of 160mm, so with disc for series 3 I go well for the handbrake ............... ..... disk height is 66mm and it's not good because I have to bring the Msport plier out more, right?

[/url]



- not to put the Msport caliper forward, I have to mount the E60 series 5 disc, which has a disc height of 63mm and that's fine, but it has the 180mm handbrake drum, so my handbrake drum .... .do not brake.




what better solution?
. do I make a bush and do I make the E60 disc drum from 180 to 160 small?
- Do I take a danzas and take the caliper outwards and mount E9x disc?
thank you

As Seattlesquash said one post up..

It´s actually easier to convert the handbrake shoes than to mill the caliper and practically destroy it for any other use than the e9x.

[poseidonhkg]

Originally Posted by Bobrpower

Ooookey, guys!
I've done it! It was not hard in realty. The only hard thing was to find the way to press the bushings into the caliper.
So, I'll describe what was done, and how. I hope it will be usefull for those who are looking for rear brakes upgrade ways.
I have e90 LCI 330d xDrive - maybe it has some importance.
I've purchased:
1. Custom eccentric bushings from one man, who helped me before with machining works.
2. 345mm Zimmerman discs from e60 (#150346120)
Tools:
1. scissors for metal
2. dremel
What was done:
1. Take the wheel off
2. Unscrew a little brake line from the original caliper while it is still mounted
3. take off the caliper (still connected to the brake line), take off brake disc
4. cut disc shield to fit new caliper with scissors or dremel. process sharp edges with dremel or smth
5. the most interesting part - pressing bushings into the caliper
I've used 10*60mm bolt and 3 spacers from one side, connected the bolt and bushing and positioned it properly (used my eye to measure). then I've started bind them slowly using PNEUMATIC WRENCH tool )))))))))
Pressed a little one bushing, then pressed another, then checked proper dimensiones using the brace from the original caliper. After I was shure that bolts are going in and out properly, I've binded the bushings to the end, and checked with the brace finally.
that's it. nothing difficult
6. then I've checked that nothing interrupts hand brake pads (when you cut the shild you may move smth a let smth what will interfere.
7. mounted brake disc and checked if it spins without problems.
8. disconnected old caliper from brake line, and immidiately connected the new one
9. mounted new caliper, checked the center position and found that it's perfectly centered
NOT ANY MACHINING of the caliper was done! No need at all!!!
10. mounted all the rest, it's not interesting
that's all.

By the way. YOU NEED to add brake fluid!!!
And you will hear some awfull sound in the beginning, while the pads will be in process of matching with the discs, as discs have some coat...

You are welcome with your questions
And now, after I'm sure that everything works, I'm ready to help you with the bushings

thanks you Bobrpower...

I would like to get more detail about the interesting part….

Is 10*60mm bolt as precursor to pressing bushings into the caliper right?
Is original bolt 10*26.5 mm bolt used for mounting Caliper & Wheel Carrier or we need longer bolt ?
What the spacer x 3 pieces purpose? What the size is and how you used it?

thanks

[salpone]

Originally Posted by feuer

I'm the first who did this mode and this is what I did.

I know that I also make this change.
*** feuer does everything still work well at the rear?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by salpone

I know that I also make this change.
*** feuer does everything still work well at the rear?

It sure does.

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by poseidonhkg

thanks you Bobrpower...

I would like to get more detail about the interesting part….

Is 10*60mm bolt as precursor to pressing bushings into the caliper right?
Is original bolt 10*26.5 mm bolt used for mounting Caliper & Wheel Carrier or we need longer bolt ?
What the spacer x 3 pieces purpose? What the size is and how you used it?

thanks

No need to complicate things, just mount the new bushings with the hole looking straight down, take a look @ my pics a few posts up.
Even if you screw up, the bushings go out with almost no effort at all, no need for a press of any kind, a small wooden hammer will do.

I mounted both sides like that on my car for the first time ever and it worked like a charm without any recalibrating.
The original bolts work just fine.


@salpone, I would recommend that you reconsider once more milling the calipers.
We are talking about pretty expensive calipers that will be ruined after you do that, not to mention that you could have problems with the yearly inspection if they see any modification of that kind. I would rather upgrade the handbrake, it's an easier modification and your car remains stock with no drilling or milling whatsoever.

Not to be disrespectful to @feuer and the other guys that went that way, I'm positive it works like a charm, but when there's no need to mill the calipers why do it?!

I'm 100% sure that I will not drive this car forever, so why not return to stock for the sale, and sellmthe calipers/discs separately for 1000-1500€ to someone that is maybe searching them for his F30?!


Just my 0.02$, but at the end of the day it's your car and your decision..

[poseidonhkg]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

No need to complicate things, just mount the new bushings with the hole looking straight down, take a look @ my pics a few posts up.
Even if you screw up, the bushings go out with almost no effort at all, no need for a press of any kind, a small wooden hammer will do.

I mounted both sides like that on my car for the first time ever and it worked like a charm without any recalibrating.
The original bolts work just fine.


@salpone, I would recommend that you reconsider once more milling the calipers.
We are talking about pretty expensive calipers that will be ruined after you do that, not to mention that you could have problems with the yearly inspection if they see any modification of that kind. I would rather upgrade the handbrake, it's an easier modification and your car remains stock with no drilling or milling whatsoever.

Not to be disrespectful to @feuer and the other guys that went that way, I'm positive it works like a charm, but when there's no need to mill the calipers why do it?!

I'm 100% sure that I will not drive this car forever, so why not return to stock for the sale, and sellmthe calipers/discs separately for 1000-1500€ to someone that is maybe searching them for his F30?!


Just my 0.02$, but at the end of the day it's your car and your decision..

Thanks Firechicken,

I have ordered the bushing from Sebastian, ordered the brake - orange and ordered the Stoptech Rotors (Front + Rear)....

looking forward the BBK....

[Emilime75]

Love this thread and all that you guys' have figured out and shared.

Just so I'm sure I'm understanding things...

Installing the eccentric bushings in the rear calipers makes it so no machining of the calipers is needed?

Is enlarging the mounting holes in the hub/spindle still necessary?

What rear rotor has been found to be compatible with a pre LCI, E92 335I? I see the Zimmerman part #150346120 mentioned, but it doesn't appear to be drilled/dimpled and slotted. Is there a drilled/dimpled and slotted option to fit my car?

[salpone]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Love this thread and all that you guys' have figured out and shared.

Just so I'm sure I'm understanding things...

Installing the eccentric bushings in the rear calipers makes it so no machining of the calipers is needed?

Is enlarging the mounting holes in the hub/spindle still necessary?

What rear rotor has been found to be compatible with a pre LCI, E92 335I? I see the Zimmerman part #150346120 mentioned, but it doesn't appear to be drilled/dimpled and slotted. Is there a drilled/dimpled and slotted option to fit my car?

https://www.autoparti.it/zimmermann/9009515

[salpone]

explain this to me well:?
* the E9x 3 series rear disc has a height of 66mm

[/url]

* the rear disc series Fx 4 has height 66mm



if I install Msport caliper on the E series I have 6mm plungers from the caliper




but if I install the E60 series disk is fine, I just have to put bushings to go up the caliper
but the E60 has a height of 63mm,




* so I gain 3cm, the other 3 cm ???

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by salpone

explain this to me well:?
* the E9x 3 series rear disc has a height of 66mm

[/url]

* the rear disc series Fx 4 has height 66mm



if I install Msport caliper on the E series I have 6mm plungers from the caliper




but if I install the E60 series disk is fine, I just have to put bushings to go up the caliper
but the E60 has a height of 63mm,




* so I gain 3cm, the other 3 cm ???

You assume the knuckles all have the same offset for the mounts. I’m guessing they don’t

[salpone]

Originally Posted by feuer

Today I was playing Lego with BMW rear rotors and this is what I found:
535i has 2-piece 345x24 et 63mm
550i has 2-piece 345x24 et 69mm
The F30 M-performance are 2-piece 345x24 et 66mm
So the 550i is no go as it mounts to deep.
The 535i is the best candidate for guys deciding to mill the rear calipers as they will have to mill 3mm less thus the mounting tubs would be 3mm thicker and also stronger.
I could mount 535i rotors now with 3mm washer between the caliper and the knuckle.
The 535i rotors a lot more cheaper too. Only difference is that they are plain blanks which I actually prefer.

ok perfect. for serie Ex rear, rotori zimmermann 150 3461 52 and mill, consume 3 / 4mm to the callipers
and this bushings :


only problem is the handbrake drum:
in my 320d it is 165mm, with the disk of the E60 series it is 185mm
so you need to make a bush inside the disc drum

[Firechicken]

Pardon my french, but damn it guys, you literally have ALL the answers on the last few pages, why are we complicatingd such a simple thing?

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Love this thread and all that you guys' have figured out and shared.

Just so I'm sure I'm understanding things...

Installing the eccentric bushings in the rear calipers makes it so no machining of the calipers is needed?

Is enlarging the mounting holes in the hub/spindle still necessary?

What rear rotor has been found to be compatible with a pre LCI, E92 335I? I see the Zimmerman part #150346120 mentioned, but it doesn't appear to be drilled/dimpled and slotted. Is there a drilled/dimpled and slotted option to fit my car?

Take a look at my post for the rears a page or two behind, I described everything step by step.

If you use the bushings there is no need to enlarge or mill anything, just remove the old bushings, press the new ones inside and mount it, stock bolts and stock holes.

Unfortunately there are no drilled/slotted for the rear, but at the end of the day, do you really need it?
My car had drilled/slotted front and only drilled rear and it looks awesome.

Originally Posted by salpone

explain this to me well:?
* the E9x 3 series rear disc has a height of 66mm

* the rear disc series Fx 4 has height 66mm

if I install Msport caliper on the E series I have 6mm plungers from the caliper

but if I install the E60 series disk is fine, I just have to put bushings to go up the caliper
but the E60 has a height of 63mm,

* so I gain 3cm, the other 3 cm ???

Originally Posted by salpone

ok perfect. for serie Ex rear, rotori zimmermann 150 3461 52 and mill, consume 3 / 4mm to the callipers
and this bushings :


only problem is the handbrake drum:
in my 320d it is 165mm, with the disk of the E60 series it is 185mm
so you need to make a bush inside the disc drum

F30 and E90 calipers have different offsets, that is the reason you have to either mill the F30 calipers and then use F30 discs, enlarge the holes on the car OR use an e60 disc with the bushings and do no milling or widening whatsoever.

Decide yourself for one solution or the other, no need to use both methods.