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      03-12-2018, 02:15 PM   #11045
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Hello guys, I'm new to the tuning scene just purchased the MHD license for my N54. I am debating wether to tune it to stage 1 or stage 1+. I have a complete stock car. It does recommend a FMIC to run stage 1+ but is it absolutely necessary?
What are the horse power differences between the two? Thank you
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      03-12-2018, 03:04 PM   #11046
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Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Hello guys, I'm new to the tuning scene just purchased the MHD license for my N54. I am debating wether to tune it to stage 1 or stage 1+. I have a complete stock car. It does recommend a FMIC to run stage 1+ but is it absolutely necessary?
What are the horse power differences between the two? Thank you
No, you can run 1+ on a stock car (and I am). The intercooler will just heat soak after repeated pulls so it's fine for a daily, but not recommended for the track or high speed runs. I think it's about another 20 hp over stock.
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      03-12-2018, 05:03 PM   #11047
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Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
Wow this is a long thread.

Hey guys,
Planning on going FBO and using MHD 2+ for a tune. I had a few questions. If this is the wrong thread let me know what the correct thread is.
1) I'll be running catless downpipes and dont want the CEL codes on my dash. Is there a way to remove only the codes related to the codes that are thrown by not having cats? I found a 1.5 guide and no mention of an Auto Delete Code feature.
2) If this feature is turned on will non related CEL codes still come on for example If I get a misfire or something like that?
3) Can you setup alerts for lean conditions? or other bad things to monitor and alert like a loud buzzing noise?
4) If I wanted to datalog once I have the FBO's in place to make sure everything is running properly what parameters should I be datalogging?

I am not running a JB4 just the MHD for now.

Thanks in advance!
1) The tune itself keeps the light from being triggered for no cats. If you pull the codes it will give you the codes for them though and say the catalyst is not ready. If you need to get around that for emissions inspection you can install the downpipe fix wiring.
2) Yes it doesn't affect any other CEL triggers.
3) Not the OTS tunes, but a custom tune could be made to do that.
4) The ones that are logged by default are fine.
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      03-12-2018, 08:56 PM   #11048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrix2k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Hello guys, I'm new to the tuning scene just purchased the MHD license for my N54. I am debating wether to tune it to stage 1 or stage 1+. I have a complete stock car. It does recommend a FMIC to run stage 1+ but is it absolutely necessary?
What are the horse power differences between the two? Thank you
No, you can run 1+ on a stock car (and I am). The intercooler will just heat soak after repeated pulls so it's fine for a daily, but not recommended for the track or high speed runs. I think it's about another 20 hp over stock.
Thanks for reply, so if I'm spending the $50 it's better to just buy the OTS map stage 1+ over the stage 1 correct. I drive it about 60 miles every day you think it can still heat up. If it's safer to just do stage 1 I'll do it but if the increase in HP is not much over stock, I'll just do the stage 1+.
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      03-12-2018, 09:13 PM   #11049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrix2k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Hello guys, I'm new to the tuning scene just purchased the MHD license for my N54. I am debating wether to tune it to stage 1 or stage 1+. I have a complete stock car. It does recommend a FMIC to run stage 1+ but is it absolutely necessary?
What are the horse power differences between the two? Thank you
No, you can run 1+ on a stock car (and I am). The intercooler will just heat soak after repeated pulls so it's fine for a daily, but not recommended for the track or high speed runs. I think it's about another 20 hp over stock.
Thanks for reply, so if I'm spending the $50 it's better to just buy the OTS map stage 1+ over the stage 1 correct. I drive it about 60 miles every day you think it can still heat up. If it's safer to just do stage 1 I'll do it but if the increase in HP is not much over stock, I'll just do the stage 1+.
Purchasing stage 1 also includes the + maps
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      03-12-2018, 11:45 PM   #11050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeBean View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
Wow this is a long thread.

Hey guys,
Planning on going FBO and using MHD 2+ for a tune. I had a few questions. If this is the wrong thread let me know what the correct thread is.
1) I'll be running catless downpipes and dont want the CEL codes on my dash. Is there a way to remove only the codes related to the codes that are thrown by not having cats? I found a 1.5 guide and no mention of an Auto Delete Code feature.
2) If this feature is turned on will non related CEL codes still come on for example If I get a misfire or something like that?
3) Can you setup alerts for lean conditions? or other bad things to monitor and alert like a loud buzzing noise?
4) If I wanted to datalog once I have the FBO's in place to make sure everything is running properly what parameters should I be datalogging?

I am not running a JB4 just the MHD for now.

Thanks in advance!
1) The tune itself keeps the light from being triggered for no cats. If you pull the codes it will give you the codes for them though and say the catalyst is not ready. If you need to get around that for emissions inspection you can install the downpipe fix wiring.
2) Yes it doesn't affect any other CEL triggers.
3) Not the OTS tunes, but a custom tune could be made to do that.
4) The ones that are logged by default are fine.
Good to know i wasn't aware a custom tune can give you ready status
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      03-13-2018, 01:07 AM   #11051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by !LEFTCOAST! View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrix2k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basedtiger View Post
Hello guys, I'm new to the tuning scene just purchased the MHD license for my N54. I am debating wether to tune it to stage 1 or stage 1+. I have a complete stock car. It does recommend a FMIC to run stage 1+ but is it absolutely necessary?
What are the horse power differences between the two? Thank you
No, you can run 1+ on a stock car (and I am). The intercooler will just heat soak after repeated pulls so it's fine for a daily, but not recommended for the track or high speed runs. I think it's about another 20 hp over stock.
Thanks for reply, so if I'm spending the $50 it's better to just buy the OTS map stage 1+ over the stage 1 correct. I drive it about 60 miles every day you think it can still heat up. If it's safer to just do stage 1 I'll do it but if the increase in HP is not much over stock, I'll just do the stage 1+.
Purchasing stage 1 also includes the + maps
Thanks I didn't know that. In that case I will run stage 1 Monday through Friday and Stage 1+ on the weekend.
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      03-13-2018, 03:43 PM   #11052
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Any word on the Flex fuel maps?
I am looking to get motive fuel analyzer soon.
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      03-13-2018, 07:33 PM   #11053
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x2
Well, I guess we need to module and for those of use that are custom tune, the specific Emap.
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      03-14-2018, 02:54 AM   #11054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ80. View Post
Having some big post shift issues after trying out v5 e40. Took it around the block but noticed massive pause/hesitation after shifting up only at wot. Decided to can it and flashed back to my v8 e50 yet the weird pause remained. I was going to a rolp racing event that night and it pretty much ruined my night tried v7 e60 at the track as i had a e60 mix in tank with no change. I took a log on the way home can anyone see any obvious reason for this random bog post shift?*

Keeping in mind this has never presented before until trying v5 e40 now its staying around. Car is dct.

https://datazap.me/u/mj80/log-1520079220
Hey mate, Does it feel like power backs off too much and for too long during a gearshift?
Check mine mate, it does almost the same as yours and i have been trying to drill down to what is causing this. Keeping in mind i am AT but shifts are definitely slow vs stock

https://datazap.me/u/napsterau/log-1...-28-29&solo=29

Last edited by NapsterAU; 03-14-2018 at 07:38 PM.
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      03-14-2018, 03:10 PM   #11055
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v8 is working well for me. No t/c issues like others but I'm AWD.
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      03-15-2018, 02:34 AM   #11056
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v8 is working well for me. No t/c issues like others but I'm AWD.
RWD here and no issues either - but I am on Stage1 only on the other hand...
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      03-15-2018, 02:37 AM   #11057
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I have been running on stage 2+ 98 RON V8 map for quite a while now without any noticeable issues. A few days ago my wife drove the car and filled it up with 95 RON fuel. Currently the fuel mix in the tank is around 30% 95 and 70% 98. Once I get the fuel light, I will fill up the tank with 98 as usual. I did not know of this initially so I have been driving with this fuel mix and 98 map including a few semi hard pulls but the car seemed to ok. I have not made logs though. The following pop into my mind but what should I do?

1. Change the map to 95 RON and drive until I can fill up the whole tank with 98 and then change the map back to 98.
2. Keep driving with the same 98 map and fill up the whole tank with 98 when I can. Once I do this though, should I reset octane adaptations?
3. How the reset octane adaptations option should be used? If you run on 95 and have map for 95 and then fill up with 98 and flash the 98 map, it automatically puts the 98 timings in and no adaptation reset is needed? When using different fuel of the same octane, off brand 98 vs premium 98, should you reset adaptations then?
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      03-15-2018, 06:16 AM   #11058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NapsterAU View Post
Hey mate, Does it feel like power backs off too much and for too long during a gearshift?
Check mine mate, it does almost the same as yours and i have been trying to drill down to what is causing this. Keeping in mind i am AT but shifts are definitely slow vs stock

https://datazap.me/u/napsterau/log-1...-28-29&solo=29
Yeah mate big pause not in the actual gear but in the engine/ecu. Cutting timing/closing throttle/tourqe limiter ect.
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      03-15-2018, 06:50 AM   #11059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ80. View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NapsterAU View Post
Hey mate, Does it feel like power backs off too much and for too long during a gearshift?
Check mine mate, it does almost the same as yours and i have been trying to drill down to what is causing this. Keeping in mind i am AT but shifts are definitely slow vs stock

https://datazap.me/u/napsterau/log-1...-28-29&solo=29
Yeah mate big pause not in the actual gear but in the engine/ecu. Cutting timing/closing throttle/tourqe limiter ect.
Have you tried cleaning the wheel sensors(ABS) MJ80.
They have been known to cause various issues.
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      03-15-2018, 07:20 AM   #11060
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Nah man its not that, it just started after trying v5 e40 from the shift shift. Its software. Just forced a full write tonight so ill try it out om the weekend. Hopefully its all good.
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      03-15-2018, 08:23 PM   #11061
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I'm not sure if it's been covered, but can this remove the top speed limiter? ...
I've seen it asked several times but I've never seen an answer. I'd like to know as well.
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      03-15-2018, 08:56 PM   #11062
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I think the short answer is no.

Even in .de there is liability issues with proving that code without some other assurances. For one, a tire that is more than Z rated.
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      03-15-2018, 09:05 PM   #11063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betmenas View Post
I have been running on stage 2+ 98 RON V8 map for quite a while now without any noticeable issues. A few days ago my wife drove the car and filled it up with 95 RON fuel. Currently the fuel mix in the tank is around 30% 95 and 70% 98. Once I get the fuel light, I will fill up the tank with 98 as usual. I did not know of this initially so I have been driving with this fuel mix and 98 map including a few semi hard pulls but the car seemed to ok. I have not made logs though. The following pop into my mind but what should I do?

1. Change the map to 95 RON and drive until I can fill up the whole tank with 98 and then change the map back to 98.
2. Keep driving with the same 98 map and fill up the whole tank with 98 when I can. Once I do this though, should I reset octane adaptations?
3. How the reset octane adaptations option should be used? If you run on 95 and have map for 95 and then fill up with 98 and flash the 98 map, it automatically puts the 98 timings in and no adaptation reset is needed? When using different fuel of the same octane, off brand 98 vs premium 98, should you reset adaptations then?

A1 (or 2) Well, you can but its still gonna take a while before it resets to max advance and no retards or throttle closure.

A2..no it will still do some self DME retards like always.. just wont be as accurate.

A3. You can, but it probably really wont make a lot of difference. In eu, I would think the ethanol mix would be pretty consistent if any at all.. That will likely be the biggest influence. If I really got some fuel that I thought was suspect I would keep my foot out of it for the tank..
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      03-16-2018, 02:14 AM   #11064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NapsterAU View Post
Hey mate, Does it feel like power backs off too much and for too long during a gearshift?
Check mine mate, it does almost the same as yours and i have been trying to drill down to what is causing this. Keeping in mind i am AT but shifts are definitely slow vs stock

https://datazap.me/u/napsterau/log-1...-28-29&solo=29
Solved mine with long flash to stock and long flash back to v8.
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      03-16-2018, 04:59 AM   #11065
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A1 (or 2) Well, you can but its still gonna take a while before it resets to max advance and no retards or throttle closure.

A2..no it will still do some self DME retards like always.. just wont be as accurate.

A3. You can, but it probably really wont make a lot of difference. In eu, I would think the ethanol mix would be pretty consistent if any at all.. That will likely be the biggest influence. If I really got some fuel that I thought was suspect I would keep my foot out of it for the tank..
Thank you for the answers.

Could you also give an idea of how long it takes for DME to adapt to the optimal timings after a map change or octane adaptation reset? If I understand this correctly, once some map is flashed, the maximum map targeted performance is not instantly achieved and it is only reached after DME adapts to the flash?
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      03-16-2018, 07:56 AM   #11066
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Quote:
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Thank you for the answers.

Could you also give an idea of how long it takes for DME to adapt to the optimal timings after a map change or octane adaptation reset? If I understand this correctly, once some map is flashed, the maximum map targeted performance is not instantly achieved and it is only reached after DME adapts to the flash?
yeah, it depends on how much of a delta there is between the two. Dropping down from an Emap to a 93 will get some cyl retards for at least 3 WFO pulls prob. And same for going up, but you wont get full advance. So performance wise, you should just try to give it at least a couple of WFO runs before expecitng it to be very close after a switch.
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