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      05-20-2019, 08:47 PM   #1
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Code issues

I'm having issues with the rear left abs/speed sensor. The sensor has been replaced (OEM) and even the CV axle has been replaced.
I attached the codes that come up on my car.

What I should do?

Could it be this part? B61.36.6.915.327
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      05-21-2019, 06:45 PM   #2
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      05-22-2019, 01:09 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerxq View Post
I'm having issues with the rear left abs/speed sensor. The sensor has been replaced (OEM) and even the CV axle has been replaced. I attached the codes that come up on my car. [D35B, 5DB3, 5DB6] Could it be this part? B61.36.6.915.327
What warning lights are present (or intermittently present) on the Instrument Cluster? ABS? DSC?

BMW Part# 61366915327 is a Relay used on several engine systems such as VVT. I do NOT see any relationship to DSC/ABS issues:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=61366915327

If I were diagnosing the issue you describe, I would want to know:
1) WHEN were the codes saved in memory (at what mileage/km);
2) WHAT FF Data (Freeze Frame Data) other than mileage is available for each code?
3) Does Each Code light a warning light on the Instrument Cluster?
4) Is EACH code currently present?
5) If you clear the codes, can you drive for a distance before any warning light appears, and when a light appears, what codes are present (along with FF Data)?

I would want to know if the problem is an intermittent wiring/connector fault, or constant, and the data described above is used for that purpose.

INPA would tell you all the answers to questions above. If Pro Tool is any good, it should too, but I use INPA & NOT Pro Tool, so can't say. INPA will also give you "Real-Time" readout of wheel speed and Rotation Direction of EACH wheel, so you can see if each wheel speed sensor and its associated wiring is working, at least intermittently.

First thing I would do is check the Fuse, F22, that provides power to the Longitudinal Dynamics Management (LDM). That circuit is shown on this TIS circuit diagram, and the LDM Installation Location is shown in the next link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nt-ldm/ehJTo63
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/SDIfnXV

Reason to check that, and if fuse intact, check Connectors indicated in schematic, is that your first code, D35B, is saying that the DSC is NOT getting a signal or "message" from the LDM ( at LEAST sometimes ;-), which it should receive via the PT CAN BUS. Here is the Circuit diagram for the PT CAN BUS, showing the Red, and Blue/Red wires between X14282 at the LDM, and Connector X18303 at the DSC (check continuity of wiring, connectors DISCONNECTED & battery disconnected):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...x10545/f3dkLXn

Here is the "Connector View" for Connector X14282 at the LDM:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CSzCi4FI

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      05-22-2019, 09:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
What warning lights are present (or intermittently present) on the Instrument Cluster? ABS? DSC?

BMW Part# 61366915327 is a Relay used on several engine systems such as VVT. I do NOT see any relationship to DSC/ABS issues:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=61366915327

If I were diagnosing the issue you describe, I would want to know:
1) WHEN were the codes saved in memory (at what mileage/km);
2) WHAT FF Data (Freeze Frame Data) other than mileage is available for each code?
3) Does Each Code light a warning light on the Instrument Cluster?
4) Is EACH code currently present?
5) If you clear the codes, can you drive for a distance before any warning light appears, and when a light appears, what codes are present (along with FF Data)?

I would want to know if the problem is an intermittent wiring/connector fault, or constant, and the data described above is used for that purpose.

INPA would tell you all the answers to questions above. If Pro Tool is any good, it should too, but I use INPA & NOT Pro Tool, so can't say. INPA will also give you "Real-Time" readout of wheel speed and Rotation Direction of EACH wheel, so you can see if each wheel speed sensor and its associated wiring is working, at least intermittently.

First thing I would do is check the Fuse, F22, that provides power to the Longitudinal Dynamics Management (LDM). That circuit is shown on this TIS circuit diagram, and the LDM Installation Location is shown in the next link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nt-ldm/ehJTo63
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/SDIfnXV

Reason to check that, and if fuse intact, check Connectors indicated in schematic, is that your first code, D35B, is saying that the DSC is NOT getting a signal or "message" from the LDM ( at LEAST sometimes ;-), which it should receive via the PT CAN BUS. Here is the Circuit diagram for the PT CAN BUS, showing the Red, and Blue/Red wires between X14282 at the LDM, and Connector X18303 at the DSC (check continuity of wiring, connectors DISCONNECTED & battery disconnected):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...x10545/f3dkLXn

Here is the "Connector View" for Connector X14282 at the LDM:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CSzCi4FI

Please let us know what you find,
George
Thank you. I'll try to go step by step.And the abs, dtc and brake lights are on.

I can't drive any distance now before the lights turn on.
And the speed reading on that wheel is intermittent. The wiring at the abs sensor was supposedly replaced at the Abs sensor
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      06-05-2019, 04:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
What warning lights are present (or intermittently present) on the Instrument Cluster? ABS? DSC?

BMW Part# 61366915327 is a Relay used on several engine systems such as VVT. I do NOT see any relationship to DSC/ABS issues:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=61366915327

If I were diagnosing the issue you describe, I would want to know:
1) WHEN were the codes saved in memory (at what mileage/km);
2) WHAT FF Data (Freeze Frame Data) other than mileage is available for each code?
3) Does Each Code light a warning light on the Instrument Cluster?
4) Is EACH code currently present?
5) If you clear the codes, can you drive for a distance before any warning light appears, and when a light appears, what codes are present (along with FF Data)?

I would want to know if the problem is an intermittent wiring/connector fault, or constant, and the data described above is used for that purpose.

INPA would tell you all the answers to questions above. If Pro Tool is any good, it should too, but I use INPA & NOT Pro Tool, so can't say. INPA will also give you "Real-Time" readout of wheel speed and Rotation Direction of EACH wheel, so you can see if each wheel speed sensor and its associated wiring is working, at least intermittently.

First thing I would do is check the Fuse, F22, that provides power to the Longitudinal Dynamics Management (LDM). That circuit is shown on this TIS circuit diagram, and the LDM Installation Location is shown in the next link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nt-ldm/ehJTo63
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-325i-lim/SDIfnXV

Reason to check that, and if fuse intact, check Connectors indicated in schematic, is that your first code, D35B, is saying that the DSC is NOT getting a signal or "message" from the LDM ( at LEAST sometimes ;-), which it should receive via the PT CAN BUS. Here is the Circuit diagram for the PT CAN BUS, showing the Red, and Blue/Red wires between X14282 at the LDM, and Connector X18303 at the DSC (check continuity of wiring, connectors DISCONNECTED & battery disconnected):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...x10545/f3dkLXn

Here is the "Connector View" for Connector X14282 at the LDM:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CSzCi4FI

Please let us know what you find,
George
So the dealer checked the wiring and the voltage whicj was comparable on both sides and said the dsc control unit has to be replaced. But they want $3900 for a new one. But they were saying that they might put in a refurbished one. Would I be able to register the new one with the protool?

Maybe the dealer misdiagnosed the problem?
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      06-05-2019, 07:19 AM   #6
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If you’re talking about the hydraulic unit, they can be had for under $100 on eBay. I’ve also heard of people repairing them, though this seems like extra work when used ones are so cheap.

I would tell the dealer to suck. $3,900. Lol.
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      06-05-2019, 08:58 AM   #7
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Pull your rear left sensor (drives the speedometer) and check for wear on the end of the sensor.
It took me a few tries to figure out but I had to shim the rear sensors on my car or else the rotating part of the hub the sensor is reading would grind the sensor down and cause it not to work after a few days.

When researching this issue I found way more information on having the ABS module rebuilt than I did replacing sensors. I assumed that was my problem but decided to sort out the sensors first. Using a cheap code reader I was able to see whether or not all 4 sensors were functioning and the rear left would read 0. Traced the wires to the abs module (same color) and found there was continuity between the plug at the abs module and the RL sensor harness.

Part of my problem was unwillingness to spend $180 sensor with no warranty from BMW when there are a multitude of aftermarket sensors available for less than $30 for 2 sensors. While 1 cheap sensor was DOA, a $45 bosch sensor was also DOA. I ended up buying a pair off of ebay that worked fine and when shimmed away from the hub have worked perfectly for a week now.
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      06-05-2019, 11:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerxq View Post
I'm having issues with the rear left abs/speed sensor [SIGNAL]. The sensor has been replaced (OEM) and even the CV axle has been replaced. [Replaced by WHOM?] I attached the codes that come up on my car. [D35B: NO LDM Signal; 5DB3: LR Wheel Speed Plausibility; 5DB6: LR Wheel Rotation Direction]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerxq View Post
...the abs, dtc and brake lights are on. [Intermittently?] I can't drive any distance now before the lights turn on. And the speed reading on that wheel is intermittent. [HOW are you monitoring LR Wheel Speed? -- Is "Rotation Direction" ALSO Intermittent?] The wiring at the abs sensor was supposedly replaced at the Abs sensor [ Exactly WHAT wiring was replaced (from "Point X to Point Y" defined), WHEN, WHY & BY WHOM?]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerxq View Post
So the dealer checked the wiring and the voltage which was comparable on both sides and said the dsc control unit has to be replaced. [Do you have an invoice you can attach a scan of, or ANYTHING that identifies any Fault Codes or Tests which indicate a BAD DSC Module???] But they want $3900 for a new one. But they were saying that they might put in a refurbished one. Would I be able to register the new one with the protool? Maybe the dealer misdiagnosed the problem?
>> "Maybe"

If the tone of questions inserted in your descriptions above seems harsh, I'm NOT trying to be Snarky, I'm trying to get you to critically evaluate & question anything that was done, either by you, or "allegedly" by others (Dealer, Indy, etc.) rather than ASSuming that it was done correctly, or the reason it was done was based upon correct diagnosis.

The general impression I get from what is quoted above is that you have a wiring fault in the Connector or wiring for the LR Wheel Speed Sensor, somewhere between the Sensor itself, and the DSC beside the brake master cylinder, and NO ONE has actually tested that wiring for intermittent short to ground or open circuit, and parts have been "Thrown" and Dealer is NOW trying to CYA by blaming the DSC Module (or maybe actually sell you a new car ;-)

I can't tell year & model from your Thread Info, so going by "325i" I'll just provide link to TIS ABS circuit diagram for "Late" 2006 or "Early" 2007 325i N52 (E90), built 3/1 2006 - 2/28/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ol-dsc/eukxvG6

Note that the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (B4) has Blue & Brown wires, and the continuity of EACH should be visually inspected where possible, and electrically tested from Sensor to DSC, while jiggling/moving the exposed wiring. Check EVERYTHING, including pins & sockets of the connectors, cleaning with Electronic Contact Cleaner & reassembling, then testing for proper speed & rotation readings while operating (assuming ProTool can give you LIVE Parameters of BOTH speed & rotation while the vehicle is operated).

Have you CLEARED all the codes and then read codes again immediately after the Warning Icons appear on dash? Do you ALWAYS get ALL THREE of the codes, and is the mileage for each being saved ALWAYS the same (as opposed to ONE being an earlier mileage/km than other(s)?

I can't say for sure that your DSC does NOT have an internal fault, but if your ProTool is reading live data of Wheel Speed Sensor Inputs, and the fault is ALWAYS the same wheel and the SAME codes, if the DSC DOES have an internal fault, it would seem to be isolated to Pins #36 & #37 of Connector X18303, so also check for any damage to those two pins & sockets at the DSC and its Connector (Pins can get broken or sockets damaged/ corroded). A wiring/Connector issue is MUCH more likely (statistically-speaking ;-) than an internal fault in the DSC.

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      06-05-2019, 06:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlieb View Post
Pull your rear left sensor (drives the speedometer) and check for wear on the end of the sensor.
It took me a few tries to figure out but I had to shim the rear sensors on my car or else the rotating part of the hub the sensor is reading would grind the sensor down and cause it not to work after a few days.

When researching this issue I found way more information on having the ABS module rebuilt than I did replacing sensors. I assumed that was my problem but decided to sort out the sensors first. Using a cheap code reader I was able to see whether or not all 4 sensors were functioning and the rear left would read 0. Traced the wires to the abs module (same color) and found there was continuity between the plug at the abs module and the RL sensor harness.

Part of my problem was unwillingness to spend $180 sensor with no warranty from BMW when there are a multitude of aftermarket sensors available for less than $30 for 2 sensors. While 1 cheap sensor was DOA, a $45 bosch sensor was also DOA. I ended up buying a pair off of ebay that worked fine and when shimmed away from the hub have worked perfectly for a week now.
How big is your shim? I checked the wiring and everything seems good now. But i pulled the sensor and there is wear on it. I put a washer but it seems to be too thick. Might need a new sensor now.

Which sensor did you buy?
And now that I think of it the new one did work for a few days.

Last edited by gunnerxq; 06-05-2019 at 07:25 PM..
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      06-08-2019, 05:22 AM   #10
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Turns out it was the abs sensor that got worn out after a few days. I got a new afe sensor for $30 and it works flawlessly. I put in a gasket underneath just in case even though I have a new axel shaft.

The reason why it got destroyed is because the reluctor ring is exposed to the elements, so rust formed around it and underneath it. Just enough to scrub the top of the sensor.
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      06-10-2019, 12:58 PM   #11
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I used copper washers from a kit of many different sizes. Anything will work as long as it keeps it from rubbing.
I setup the programmer and kept moving the sensor in until it showed a reading. In my case about 2mm or .080" was enough to keep from rubbing. Was surprised how far it can be pulled out and still give a reading.
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