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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > MHD N55 E-Series - general discussion



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      05-22-2019, 01:53 PM   #7833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
If you're replying to my post at all, I am referencing cold start in the morning when it was 30f outside this past winter. I am not concerned at all about it at... just noting that I also noticed odd cold-start behavior.

Definitely not concerned about wear at all with cold/warm start function but I guess other people were the ones bringing that up. I just assumed the car was falling out of the cold start routine for some kind of load/rpm reason. It just has never did that in the past.

As you know it has been raining non-stop so haven't had a chance to run the car hard much. haven't flashed the warm-start roar yet but like you said, I'd only expect it to do it at like say 120f+ coolant temps or something. I'm pretty sure I saw you posted the exact number somewhere? Might help to point people to the "specs."
general post about the cold start and start up roar because the last few posts seemed to be about it.




Quote:
Originally Posted by csween86 View Post
Can you use start up roar without having to use cold start delete? It would be cool to keep my cold start sound, and then take advantage of start up roar sound for when the engine is warm... sorry if it seems like a dumb question, haven't had a chance to update my app yet and take a look.

yes, start up roar is a completely separate function than cold start. it can be used with or without.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
After hearing all the idle stories and cold start stories i was very hesitant to update my car but i have not noticed any issues at all.
you shouldn't be hesitant. every car is different, the numbers of people without issues exponentially outweigh the owners with issues as its literally only a handful of people. literally. It just seems like a lot because of the couple of people posting about it here. But remember this thread is only like 4-5% of the actual users MHD.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
I'm talking about cold start routine ending suddenly not the car stalling. As in, the car would be revving at 3,000 rpm for 2-3 seconds and then just immediately end the cold start routine and dip to normal idle. Cold start takes quite a bit to run it shouldn't just stop after a few seconds or at least rpm usually comes back down gradually over time.

i've never seen my car rev to 3000rpms on a cold start ever. i cant even remember it going much past 2000rpms if at all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
I think that is part of the confusion for people lol... the cars logical meaning of the word cold start refers to a coolant temp lookup. Cranking a red hot car with 210f coolant in 32f weather is not a cold-start. The car is already warm and doesn't require extra fuel and rpm etc.

Warm-start roar means that when it's 32f outside, and the car is already hot (like you just turned the car off to run into Dunkin Donuts to grab coffee), the car will still roar for a split second when you re-start it. This is something a lot of exotics do. It's just for noise and not to "warm-up" the car/cats.

exactly
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      05-22-2019, 02:21 PM   #7834
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Twisted tuning can you please explain when do we have to use knock adaptation reset?
What is it for?
Thanks
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      05-22-2019, 02:25 PM   #7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyson413 View Post
Twisted tuning can you please explain when do we have to use knock adaptation reset?
What is it for?
Thanks
changing fuels, or changing maps with different timing targets.
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      05-22-2019, 03:56 PM   #7836
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Start up roar not letting the car start without being bumpy and me having to give it a little bit of throttle on a custom map. is this just me?
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      05-22-2019, 04:25 PM   #7837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
I'm talking about cold start routine ending suddenly not the car stalling. As in, the car would be revving at 3,000 rpm for 2-3 seconds and then just immediately end the cold start routine and dip to normal idle. Cold start takes quite a bit to run it shouldn't just stop after a few seconds or at least rpm usually comes back down gradually over time.
Mine would do that as well. Sometimes it would also start up (when cold) with the normal warm sequence and hover around 800 RPM or so for 2-3 seconds before revving up to the cold start RPM for another 5-10 seconds prior to quieting down again. Since doing the regulator, my cold and warm starts have been super consistent and I have noticed a serious lack of "bucking" and hesitation when initially driving off in the morning.
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      05-22-2019, 06:58 PM   #7838
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Guys I know these are the maps for when you run Jb4 alone
Maps:

Map 0: Stock bypass.
Map 1: 13psi. Suggested for most racing applications.
Map 2: 14psi. Suggested for those with exhaust and 93 RM2 or higher octane.
Map 3: Progressive meth mapping with flow sensor failsafe. See guide to enable. Meth use isn't supported/suggested without a flow sensor and map 3.
Map 4: Stock map w/ CAN active. Allows full logging and in dash gauges on the stock mapping.
Map 5: Autotuning map. Boost ranges between 11-18psi based on your cars octane, conditions, and modifications. Fully E85 compatible. If using E85 we suggest around 30% to start. Refer to the E85 FAQ for addl info. Resets to 93 octane level adaptions when selected and adjusts itself up or down from there.
Map 6: User defined map generally only used for diagnostics or troubleshooting.
Map 7: Race gas map. 18psi peak boost.


But since I saw that map 2 changes to 19 psi what do the other maps change to as well when you run a bef? is map 5 still auto tuning? and if I run 30% e85 do I still use map 2? when running a bef?
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      05-22-2019, 07:26 PM   #7839
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Startup roar works great for me. Nice touch. Great work! It's those types of things that just make the drive to work that much more enjoyable.
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      05-22-2019, 07:58 PM   #7840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam View Post
Startup roar works great for me. Nice touch. Great work! It's those types of things that just make the drive to work that much more enjoyable.
Can you do that when using a bef?
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      05-22-2019, 08:09 PM   #7841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinWake View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam View Post
Startup roar works great for me. Nice touch. Great work! It's those types of things that just make the drive to work that much more enjoyable.
Can you do that when using a bef?
Yep, I'm using it with the BMS pump BEF and it works great.
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      05-22-2019, 08:40 PM   #7842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasmiller2015 View Post
Yep, I'm using it with the BMS pump BEF and it works great.
How do you like it? sounds nice? its a pretty cool attention grabber
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      05-22-2019, 09:24 PM   #7843
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Hello yall. Say how quickly is the AFR supposed to jump to 234 when at WOT and pedal is released? Iíve read immediately, however Iíve viewed logs where afr did not spike immediately and the seasoned owners determined as good or better in terms of performance overall for the car.
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      05-22-2019, 09:46 PM   #7844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinWake View Post
Guys I know these are the maps for when you run Jb4 alone
Maps:

Map 0: Stock bypass.
Map 1: 13psi. Suggested for most racing applications.
Map 2: 14psi. Suggested for those with exhaust and 93 RM2 or higher octane.
Map 3: Progressive meth mapping with flow sensor failsafe. See guide to enable. Meth use isn't supported/suggested without a flow sensor and map 3.
Map 4: Stock map w/ CAN active. Allows full logging and in dash gauges on the stock mapping.
Map 5: Autotuning map. Boost ranges between 11-18psi based on your cars octane, conditions, and modifications. Fully E85 compatible. If using E85 we suggest around 30% to start. Refer to the E85 FAQ for addl info. Resets to 93 octane level adaptions when selected and adjusts itself up or down from there.
Map 6: User defined map generally only used for diagnostics or troubleshooting.
Map 7: Race gas map. 18psi peak boost.


But since I saw that map 2 changes to 19 psi what do the other maps change to as well when you run a bef? is map 5 still auto tuning? and if I run 30% e85 do I still use map 2? when running a bef?

Anyone know?
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      05-23-2019, 12:58 AM   #7845
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Some news for Late E series owners!
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      05-23-2019, 01:20 AM   #7846
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MHD N55 E-Series - general discussion

Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinWake View Post
Guys I know these are the maps for when you run Jb4 alone
Maps:

Map 0: Stock bypass.
Map 1: 13psi. Suggested for most racing applications.
Map 2: 14psi. Suggested for those with exhaust and 93 RM2 or higher octane.
Map 3: Progressive meth mapping with flow sensor failsafe. See guide to enable. Meth use isn't supported/suggested without a flow sensor and map 3.
Map 4: Stock map w/ CAN active. Allows full logging and in dash gauges on the stock mapping.
Map 5: Autotuning map. Boost ranges between 11-18psi based on your cars octane, conditions, and modifications. Fully E85 compatible. If using E85 we suggest around 30% to start. Refer to the E85 FAQ for addl info. Resets to 93 octane level adaptions when selected and adjusts itself up or down from there.
Map 6: User defined map generally only used for diagnostics or troubleshooting.
Map 7: Race gas map. 18psi peak boost.


But since I saw that map 2 changes to 19 psi what do the other maps change to as well when you run a bef? is map 5 still auto tuning? and if I run 30% e85 do I still use map 2? when running a bef?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasmiller2015 View Post
With the BEF, Map 1 is ~16 PSI (normally 13), Map 2 is ~19 PSI (normally 14). I found Map 5 to be very similar to Map 2 (running ~E35), but Map 2 is more consistent. The BEF also adjusts fueling, timing, VANOS, etc.

https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showp...28&postcount=1

https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=15
^
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      05-23-2019, 03:48 AM   #7847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasmiller2015 View Post
^
lol fail you told me before I have to figure out how to pin important replies so I dont ask the same question again
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      05-23-2019, 06:56 AM   #7848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyTeeee View Post
Hello yall. Say how quickly is the AFR supposed to jump to 234 when at WOT and pedal is released? I’ve read immediately, however I’ve viewed logs where afr did not spike immediately and the seasoned owners determined as good or better in terms of performance overall for the car.
2-4 seconds. Its not immediate on N55. once you let off and DME switches to decel mode and fuel is shut off, it takes about 2-4 seconds to get to 235afr. if it takes longer than that, you may have a lazy O2 sensor, or a leaking injector(s).



Quote:
Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz View Post
Some news for Late E series owners!

no real news, this is about 4 months or more old. And this has nothing to do with any exploit that was changed or not changed on F-series models. Because it has absolutely nothing to do with OBD2 protocol and algorithms. Service mode was always possible if you knew how to program software to do so and knew the pinout. Alientech, simply added the feature to their software to take advantage of it, lol. The regular "open the case attach to boot pin" still works as it did prior to them adding this other method.

Before its even asked, no this does not make us any closer to OBD2 unlocks of late E-series. It just removes the need to open the case and connect to the internal boot pin.

So with this, if you are paying more than $100 for an unlock from anyone, you are being ripped off. Well, thats nothing knew, because i've seen people charge in upwards of $300 for an unlock prior to this. , smh.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinWake View Post
Guys I know these are the maps for when you run Jb4 alone
Maps:

Map 0: Stock bypass.
Map 1: 13psi. Suggested for most racing applications.
Map 2: 14psi. Suggested for those with exhaust and 93 RM2 or higher octane.
Map 3: Progressive meth mapping with flow sensor failsafe. See guide to enable. Meth use isn't supported/suggested without a flow sensor and map 3.
Map 4: Stock map w/ CAN active. Allows full logging and in dash gauges on the stock mapping.
Map 5: Autotuning map. Boost ranges between 11-18psi based on your cars octane, conditions, and modifications. Fully E85 compatible. If using E85 we suggest around 30% to start. Refer to the E85 FAQ for addl info. Resets to 93 octane level adaptions when selected and adjusts itself up or down from there.
Map 6: User defined map generally only used for diagnostics or troubleshooting.
Map 7: Race gas map. 18psi peak boost.


But since I saw that map 2 changes to 19 psi what do the other maps change to as well when you run a bef? is map 5 still auto tuning? and if I run 30% e85 do I still use map 2? when running a bef?

this question is better directed to n54tech threads where they are JB4 specific. I personally don't follow the 8 billion changes they do every two weeks to the JB4, lol.
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      05-23-2019, 11:08 AM   #7849
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[QUOTE=Twisted Tuning;24821590]2-4 seconds. Its not immediate on N55. once you let off and DME switches to decel mode and fuel is shut off, it takes about 2-4 seconds to get to 235afr. if it takes longer than that, you may have a lazy O2 sensor, or a leaking injector(s).

Sweet! Thank you!
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      05-23-2019, 03:00 PM   #7850
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Been out of the loop for a little bit but I finally got my car back up and running and just flashed it again for the first time in a while. Went back to stage 2 from the e30 OTS.

Start up roar is pretty badass, and the flash time took only 1 minute which is awesome.
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      05-23-2019, 05:13 PM   #7851
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Flashed the most recent update and gave it some time to adapt. I did just go a fuel regulator job, so that may have a play on it, but this is the cleanest Stage 2+ log I have seen on my car since running Cobb almost two years ago.

https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/stage-...26-27-28-29-30

Currently quite satisfied with the way the car feels at the moment.
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      05-23-2019, 06:38 PM   #7852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich_mane View Post
Been out of the loop for a little bit but I finally got my car back up and running and just flashed it again for the first time in a while. Went back to stage 2 from the e30 OTS.

Start up roar is pretty badass, and the flash time took only 1 minute which is awesome.
DUDE ! Welcome back. !

What did you end up doing ? New Used motor ?
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      05-23-2019, 07:41 PM   #7853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
DUDE ! Welcome back. !

What did you end up doing ? New Used motor ?
Haha thanks! I'm back... for now. lol

I just replaced the rod bearings and that's it. I ended up having 2 spun rod bearings in cylinders 4 and 5. Cylinder 4 was the truly bad one that locked the motor up solid and left a bit of bearing residue on the crank and rod. Cylinder 5 had barely any visible problems after getting the bearing off. So I got some emery and crocus cloth online and spent a good amount of time polishing up the crank and rods for cylinder 4. Slapped some king bearings in there (and the other 4 cylinders) and put it back together. lollll it's still going after 100 miles so far... haven't revved it up too high yet but I have no abnormal noises or knocks, oil pressure seems to be okay and idle is steady. Still taking it easy for a bit longer, gonna change the oil after a couple hundred more miles and then I'll be getting on it and seeing how it holds up.

Had nothing to lose with this motor really. If the next step is a used one, might as well try to get away with just the bearings on this one first. The King rod bearings only cost $140 for a full set. If it dies again, it dies. And i'll just get a used motor at that point and replace the bearings before it goes into the car.
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      05-23-2019, 08:34 PM   #7854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich_mane View Post
Haha thanks! I'm back... for now. lol

I just replaced the rod bearings and that's it. I ended up having 2 spun rod bearings in cylinders 4 and 5. Cylinder 4 was the truly bad one that locked the motor up solid and left a bit of bearing residue on the crank and rod. Cylinder 5 had barely any visible problems after getting the bearing off. So I got some emery and crocus cloth online and spent a good amount of time polishing up the crank and rods for cylinder 4. Slapped some king bearings in there (and the other 4 cylinders) and put it back together. lollll it's still going after 100 miles so far... haven't revved it up too high yet but I have no abnormal noises or knocks, oil pressure seems to be okay and idle is steady. Still taking it easy for a bit longer, gonna change the oil after a couple hundred more miles and then I'll be getting on it and seeing how it holds up.

Had nothing to lose with this motor really. If the next step is a used one, might as well try to get away with just the bearings on this one first. The King rod bearings only cost $140 for a full set. If it dies again, it dies. And i'll just get a used motor at that point and replace the bearings before it goes into the car.
Totally agree with that. Awesome. Hope it will last. If so thats very positive for anyone that has a similar outcome.
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