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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Procrastinated changing VCG and now Eccentric Shaft Sensor codes!



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      09-22-2018, 06:31 PM   #1
greenberet123
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Procrastinated changing VCG and now Eccentric Shaft Sensor codes!

Got these codes this morning, werent there 2 weeks ago.

2A32 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference present
2A47 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: plausibility present
2A36 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference present
2A00 DME: Secondary air system not present
2A34 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference not present

Oil smells while driving and see some dried oil next to the engine cover.

Does this mean that oil has entered my ESS?

Can it be saved? A new ESS looks expensive!
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      09-22-2018, 06:55 PM   #2
bluewater328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenberet123 View Post
Got these codes this morning, werent there 2 weeks ago.

2A32 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference present
2A47 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: plausibility present
2A36 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference present
2A00 DME: Secondary air system not present
2A34 DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference not present

Oil smells while driving and see some dried oil next to the engine cover.

Does this mean that oil has entered my ESS?

Can it be saved? A new ESS looks expensive!
It's $200 at bavauto. Just get it and the VCG gasket kit and you're set. You'll be right under there anyway and most say you should just change a high milage ESS anyway since you're under there (I did). I wouldn't want to be under there twice (or worse, pay someone twice).

Here's what could happen if you're unlucky:
2011 328i Eccentric Shaft Sensor & PCV Valve Experience https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1536502

The leaky VCG didn't necessarily contribute MORE to its failure. In any case, you were due to get under there anyway. And whether its a DIY or an indy doing it, its another 10-15 min while you're in there so probably a good thing it failed now before you went in there and sealed it up.

Dried oil and smell only indicate the VCG. ESS you can pop the hose off and see if the connection has sucked in any oil. You'll just need to remove the shield.
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      09-29-2018, 05:03 PM   #3
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bluewater328 - Thanks! Removed the plastic engine cover and popped off the ESS. Yes, there is a bit of oil in there, so I will be changing it.

Should I be changing anything else while I'm down there? There seems to be a bit of oil under the servo motor, but I haven't removed it yet.
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      09-29-2018, 05:30 PM   #4
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Yes replace all related gaskets. Servo motor included. Tho you can do that one anytime
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      09-29-2018, 07:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenberet123 View Post
bluewater328 - Thanks! Removed the plastic engine cover and popped off the ESS. Yes, there is a bit of oil in there, so I will be changing it.

Should I be changing anything else while I'm down there? There seems to be a bit of oil under the servo motor, but I haven't removed it yet.
As much as I believe in not going back in there twice, unless you are sure you're getting codes specifically for the Valvetronic I wouldn't bother as it's not a very common failure. And as said, that one sits above the VC so you could always replace it later without much effort.

See what replacing the ESS does first - just in case the codes are more related to that. You can always do the Valvetronic as well, but chase down one problem at a time to be sure.

Obviously all the gaskets if not the whole VCG (which I'd consider at high milage) replacement kit as it comes as a fairly well put-together set.

Remember the spark plug sleeves (one time use and you'll want to pull them to do the VCG). And if you had a leak, the spark plugs themselves as it'll probably be a bit fouled (but obviously check).
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      09-30-2018, 01:51 PM   #6
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Arghh, didn't know that the sleeves are one-time use. Ordering them now. So now I have. 1. A new VC gasket, 2. new ESS, 3. new sleeves, 4. New Valvetronic motor gasket. Is there anything I might need?

When I removed the ignition coils, the sleeves look clean and shiny without any oil in them. Therefore, I was not planning on removing the spark plugs, but should I remove them? The whole area looks spic and span clean!
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      09-30-2018, 01:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenberet123 View Post
Arghh, didn't know that the sleeves are one-time use. Ordering them now. So now I have. 1. A new VC gasket, 2. new ESS, 3. new sleeves, 4. New Valvetronic motor gasket. Is there anything I might need?

When I removed the ignition coils, the sleeves look clean and shiny without any oil in them. Therefore, I was not planning on removing the spark plugs, but should I remove them? The whole area looks spic and span clean!
If you're not getting codes and the tubes look clean, then leave the plugs alone. Treat it like the Valvetronic and chase it if it throws a code later — just as easy to access.

For replacement parts, if you're not doing the full VC, then make sure you have the parts listed here (let it load and look toward the bottom for broken out part numbers). You definitely need the ESS seal.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11127582245kt

EDIT: New link for N52 (N51 kit formerly listed)
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      09-30-2018, 02:23 PM   #8
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This is awesome! Just what I was looking for, thanks!

Where do the hex nuts go?
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      09-30-2018, 02:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenberet123 View Post
This is awesome! Just what I was looking for, thanks!

Where do the hex nuts go?
Sorry, copied the wrong link, that was for the N51. This is probably more applicable:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11127582245kt
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      09-30-2018, 03:26 PM   #10
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Yes replace rubber spark plug tubes and o-rings
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      09-30-2018, 04:17 PM   #11
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bluewater328 It was right, mine is an N51
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      09-30-2018, 04:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenberet123 View Post
bluewater328 It was right, mine is an N51
Hahaha...well, glad you're good.
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      10-01-2018, 12:19 AM   #13
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Help! I cannot get the torx screw from the base of the Valvetronic motor out! I'm using a torx socket on a swivel, but the angle is weird and the socket doesn't fit. Videos say that I need a low profile torx socket. I have these right now:

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Pie...w+profile+torx

but cannot find any low profile torx set online. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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      10-01-2018, 12:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenberet123 View Post
Help! I cannot get the torx screw from the base of the Valvetronic motor out! I'm using a torx socket on a swivel, but the angle is weird and the socket doesn't fit. Videos say that I need a low profile torx socket. I have these right now:

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Pie...w+profile+torx

but cannot find any low profile torx set online. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Not sure I even used a universal joint, I think I just used a standard etorx socket with 1/4" ratchet plus extension. A 3/8" would give you some problems.

EDIT: Assume you removed the ignition coils first?
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      10-01-2018, 12:16 PM   #15
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You're right! I removed the ignition but I had to remove the wire strip below to get the right angle. All good now
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      10-03-2018, 01:24 PM   #16
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Is there a website to get all the torque values of all the bolts, especially the Valve Cover bolts?
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      10-03-2018, 01:40 PM   #17
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I believe it was 8.5Nm. If you bought a new one VC, it's actually embossed on there, IIRC.

Also, you could always check this for other spec references:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-328i-lim/
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      10-11-2018, 07:32 PM   #18
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Have almost removed the valve cover - but I have this extra connection in my N51 which I cannot find in the DIY videos

View post on imgur.com


This cable connecting to this circular piece on the valve cover. What is that and how do I remove it? Thanks!
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      10-11-2018, 09:04 PM   #19
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Pretty sure that's just a nipple connection. You just gently pull off the hose. That's a SULEV only piece but I think the valve cover side has a conical shape. I believe you can leave what looks like a circular cover in place. A new Valve Cover would still come with this piece intact where you would connect the hose back up.

Again, I didn't have to deal with this, but I believe that's the only piece extra you'll find. Just slowly remove and tuck away till the end.
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      10-11-2018, 09:58 PM   #20
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Thanks bluewater328 ! That was very helpful. I had to push
the rubbery hose towards the connection to make it big enough for me to pop it off.

btw, is there a trick to remove the valve cover? I have all 19 exterior bolts + 1 center bolt out and have pried open the accessible corners with a screwdriver. Heard some loud sounds, hope nothing cracked ... but the cover just wont come out!
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      10-11-2018, 10:05 PM   #21
greenberet123
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oh shoot, I realized that there are 3 screws in the middle and I only removed one! Oh hell!
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      10-11-2018, 10:43 PM   #22
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Today is a bad day .

The valve cover came out and I cannot see any visible cracks on it ..... but a little piece of plastic in the center has come off and has been hurled somewhere in the car. Doesn't seem to be in the engine. I think its this piece: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1392808

Is there a spot where dropped things accumulate? Just left like lots of things dropped when I removed the valve cover, I hope I have accounted for everything

Last edited by greenberet123; 10-12-2018 at 01:21 AM..
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