[krashDH]

Hey All,

This might be a long winded first post. But I'm really toying with the idea of joining the BMW club (and of course this forum if I do)!

First off, I love anything diesel. I've been an owner of a 2004 Cummins and a 2002 TDI Golf since around the 2013 year. Both are manual transmissions and tastefully modded, with all of the "problems" that plague both of them taken care of. I've never owned an automatic in my life since I've had vehicles. I'm a very active member on both of the forums and contribute with a lot of technical write-ups and DIY's. Neither vehicle has been to a shop for any work since my purchase of them (do my own wrenching).

I told myself since I outright own both my rigs, that I would drive them into the ground and not sell. Both years are very sought after (5.9 with pre emissions stuff, 1.9 ALH). Long story short I am really toying the idea with jumping to a 335d.

Funds are not a big deal. But, I can't keep all the vehicles. Just wouldn't make sense as a single guy. 2 vehicles is enough to maintain (and motorcycle, dirtbike, etc). So I think the TDI would have to go if I made this jump (I'm really struggling with the thought of this honestly). The TDI gets in the high 30's for mpg, but it's got performance parts and a bike rack on it, which kinda kills the mileage for one of those ALH's. So I don't need to get 50 mpg or I wouldn't be considering the 335d.

Here's the biggest caveat; I understand that the 335d's only came with an auto. But, from reading through the threads on here and doing a bit of digging, the manual 6 sp can be swapped into these cars relatively easy. I know there's a FB page with enthusiasts who do this a lot and there is probably a wealth of information to be had from that group, but I don't do any social media like that.

I understand there might be some VW TDI transplants over on this forum that have owned the ALH as well as their 335. I've got a few questions, some related to the manual swap, some not.

Swap Related Questions:

1) I haven't seen many recent manual swaps talked about on here. I know it's not the only place for this information, but I guess I was wondering: Are the parts for the manual swap still readily available from across the pond (GS6-53DZ)?

2) The few threads I've read through mention that swapping to a 2.35 ratio is pretty key if doing this swap. Pretty easy to find that still?

3) I don't have access to a lift. It seems there might be one or 2 people who have done this swap solo, with the car on jack stands or ramps, with the only 2 person task needed would be to stab the transmission and get it back in. Is this accurate? I don't really have a second set of hands that could help.

4) Is there a definitive thread on the swap that lists out all of the hardware needed? Most of the threads I've seen are kind of all over the place

Generally Questions and Comments:

It seems like the things that plague the 335d plague many of the modern diesels of those years. Emissions systems designs seemed to really struggle and cause problems to the cars when they were introduced till about 2012 (Cummins had them absolutely, as well as VW). I've seen clogged TDI intakes that had a path that was no joke, the size of a pencil. I know the "weight loss" or "D" subject is touchy, especially in the current era of the EPA going after shops and such. But, just like those generation of Cummins and TDI's, it seems the 335 can benefit from this as well since the system seemed to cause issues and be very expensive to fix. I don't advocate breaking any local laws. I'm in the PNW, no emissions testing for diesels (or gassers) anymore.

I'd be looking into a 2011 335d. I have not found one. I've seen a couple sub 100k miles, but those worry me a bit as they are getting to the point where there's a lot of things that need replacing should be replaced (suspension, bushings, fluids if they weren't done, etc) as far as regular maintenance items.

Then there's the "over 100k" cars I see which tend to have 100-150k. In the PNW, doesn't matter if it's vehicles or houses, prices seem to always be way inflated with the "I know what I got" attitude. So these 335's I've seen seem to be in the $10-14k range.

Now, I bought my truck with 189k on the clock and the TDI had 149k. The truck now is at 290k and the car is around 270k. I'm not scared of a high mileage diesel, as long as the previous owner has properly maintained it (and hopefully has some kind of proof). I tend to document every thing I do to my rigs, down to simple bulb changes. I appreciate it when people take the time to do that.

Some of these for sale I've seen already have the weight loss. If that's the case, cool, I don't have to spend the $$$ to do it myself.

Some seem to still have the emissions pieces in tact. I'm not really concerned with either, so long as if it has these pieces, that the failures have been addressed and parts replaced. It will cost me $$$ though if I have to do it but it always gives me the option to be able to put back on.

For the swap if I made it happen, I'm assuming it's going to cost around $3500-4k when it's all said and done, just for parts (and the programming side of things). That makes a 335d pretty spendy at that point. I'd say though that for all my vehicles, I fall into the category of an "enthusiast" so things like having something unique and reliable are very appealing to me.

From what I've read, other than emissions stuff, making sure the car has a good t-stat, harmonic dampener, vac lines, oil feed lines, glow plugs, cleaning carbon build-up, stuff kind of covers the nickel and dime stuff.

Would you all find that an accurate statement? Obviously I'd allot a certain amount of money each year to maintenance.

The Cummins and TDI are pretty darn easy to work on. Those of you that DIY, obviously other than the fact that there is a lack of room to work under the hood, is this car a PITA to work on, or is it pretty straight forward and decent access to things?

In the TDI world, we use the VCDS software to troubleshoot (and change) a lot of things. Is there something like that used in the 335D world that we can get our hands on? I've read that something like a simple battery change requires some type of coding, and that's kind of a put off for me. Unless of course we have access to the software for things needed like that.

Other than that, I think that's all I can think of at the moment, I apologize for the long post but I always like interacting on these vehicle forums. The TDI world (and Cummins) has a GREAT group of people who are very knowledgeable and help new members a lot. I love that about these forums. It seems around here is the same way. I also see a lot of questions I may run into in the future have already been answered and completed.

What's my main reason for possibly switching? Something a bit newer than a 2002. Modern, power, diesel, a bit of luxury, and I've always been interested in these cars. But I'm definitely having the inner struggle with giving up the TDI that I've built up from stock and really cared for.

Hope to hear back from some of you. 1st post, hopefully not last. I'll be keeping my eyes opening in the PNW for getting one if it seems to be a good fit and I can find parts for the swap (I've done business across the way with some vendors that work a lot with VW/Audi). I don't mind travelling as well to find the right car. I would plan on keeping it a very long time especially if it's got the manual transmission in it.

Cheers all!

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by krashDH

Hey All,

This might be a long winded first post. But I'm really toying with the idea of joining the BMW club (and of course this forum if I do)!

First off, I love anything diesel. I've been an owner of a 2004 Cummins and a 2002 TDI Golf since around the 2013 year. Both are manual transmissions and tastefully modded, with all of the "problems" that plague both of them taken care of. I've never owned an automatic in my life since I've had vehicles. I'm a very active member on both of the forums and contribute with a lot of technical write-ups and DIY's. Neither vehicle has been to a shop for any work since my purchase of them (do my own wrenching).

I told myself since I outright own both my rigs, that I would drive them into the ground and not sell. Both years are very sought after (5.9 with pre emissions stuff, 1.9 ALH). Long story short I am really toying the idea with jumping to a 335d.

Funds are not a big deal. But, I can't keep all the vehicles. Just wouldn't make sense as a single guy. 2 vehicles is enough to maintain (and motorcycle, dirtbike, etc). So I think the TDI would have to go if I made this jump (I'm really struggling with the thought of this honestly). The TDI gets in the high 30's for mpg, but it's got performance parts and a bike rack on it, which kinda kills the mileage for one of those ALH's. So I don't need to get 50 mpg or I wouldn't be considering the 335d.

If you can keep your foot out of it the 335d gets great mileage. The other day I was in my dads car and the lie o meter was saying like 45 mpg at 70 (flat ground) even if it reads a little high thats still like 40 mpg

Here's the biggest caveat; I understand that the 335d's only came with an auto. But, from reading through the threads on here and doing a bit of digging, the manual 6 sp can be swapped into these cars relatively easy. I know there's a FB page with enthusiasts who do this a lot and there is probably a wealth of information to be had from that group, but I don't do any social media like that.

Can't help you on the manual swap but my dad was the same way wishing the car had a manual but the ZF transmission does a really good job the torque converter locks in 2nd gear so the car has a really good response. If you do up the power a while most people don't tune the transmission if you do it does help a lot.

I understand there might be some VW TDI transplants over on this forum that have owned the ALH as well as their 335. I've got a few questions, some related to the manual swap, some not.

My sister had a VW TDI and I noticed a few of the user names here are the same as the TDI forum I was looking at when she had the car

Swap Related Questions:

1) I haven't seen many recent manual swaps talked about on here. I know it's not the only place for this information, but I guess I was wondering: Are the parts for the manual swap still readily available from across the pond (GS6-53DZ)?

2) The few threads I've read through mention that swapping to a 2.35 ratio is pretty key if doing this swap. Pretty easy to find that still?

3) I don't have access to a lift. It seems there might be one or 2 people who have done this swap solo, with the car on jack stands or ramps, with the only 2 person task needed would be to stab the transmission and get it back in. Is this accurate? I don't really have a second set of hands that could help.

4) Is there a definitive thread on the swap that lists out all of the hardware needed? Most of the threads I've seen are kind of all over the place

Generally Questions and Comments:

It seems like the things that plague the 335d plague many of the modern diesels of those years. Emissions systems designs seemed to really struggle and cause problems to the cars when they were introduced till about 2012 (Cummins had them absolutely, as well as VW). I've seen clogged TDI intakes that had a path that was no joke, the size of a pencil. I know the "weight loss" or "D" subject is touchy, especially in the current era of the EPA going after shops and such. But, just like those generation of Cummins and TDI's, it seems the 335 can benefit from this as well since the system seemed to cause issues and be very expensive to fix. I don't advocate breaking any local laws. I'm in the PNW, no emissions testing for diesels (or gassers) anymore.

There are a few stickys here about this

I'd be looking into a 2011 335d. I have not found one. I've seen a couple sub 100k miles, but those worry me a bit as they are getting to the point where there's a lot of things that need replacing should be replaced (suspension, bushings, fluids if they weren't done, etc) as far as regular maintenance items.

Then there's the "over 100k" cars I see which tend to have 100-150k. In the PNW, doesn't matter if it's vehicles or houses, prices seem to always be way inflated with the "I know what I got" attitude. So these 335's I've seen seem to be in the $10-14k range.

The newest 335d is 13 years old all of them will need work.

Now, I bought my truck with 189k on the clock and the TDI had 149k. The truck now is at 290k and the car is around 270k. I'm not scared of a high mileage diesel, as long as the previous owner has properly maintained it (and hopefully has some kind of proof). I tend to document every thing I do to my rigs, down to simple bulb changes. I appreciate it when people take the time to do that.

Some of these for sale I've seen already have the weight loss. If that's the case, cool, I don't have to spend the $$$ to do it myself.

Some seem to still have the emissions pieces in tact. I'm not really concerned with either, so long as if it has these pieces, that the failures have been addressed and parts replaced. It will cost me $$$ though if I have to do it but it always gives me the option to be able to put back on.

Pros and cons to both options for me personally I would want a stock car that way I know what has been done to it but I can see why some people would want a moded one.

For the swap if I made it happen, I'm assuming it's going to cost around $3500-4k when it's all said and done, just for parts (and the programming side of things). That makes a 335d pretty spendy at that point. I'd say though that for all my vehicles, I fall into the category of an "enthusiast" so things like having something unique and reliable are very appealing to me.

Can confirm it will be spendy my dad has basically gone through his car the past 2 years and I think he's like closer to $8k just in parts but it's worth it to him there isn't another car that's as fun, powerful and full efficient has his 335

From what I've read, other than emissions stuff, making sure the car has a good t-stat, harmonic dampener, vac lines, oil feed lines, glow plugs, cleaning carbon build-up, stuff kind of covers the nickel and dime stuff.

A few things I'll add the intercooler has plastic end tanks, the door handles degrade so swap or cover them, the side turn signals crack/fog, engine mounts, valve cover gaskets, suspension bushings (these were a night and day difference), other stuff I know I'm forgetting

Would you all find that an accurate statement? Obviously I'd allot a certain amount of money each year to maintenance.

The Cummins and TDI are pretty darn easy to work on. Those of you that DIY, obviously other than the fact that there is a lack of room to work under the hood, is this car a PITA to work on, or is it pretty straight forward and decent access to things?

Wouldn't say easy it's pretty tight in the engine bay but if you can turn a wreck and follow guides it's do able. A lot of things my dad has reached a point were he would pay someone to do it but can't find anyone who's will so he does it himself.

In the TDI world, we use the VCDS software to troubleshoot (and change) a lot of things. Is there something like that used in the 335D world that we can get our hands on? I've read that something like a simple battery change requires some type of coding, and that's kind of a put off for me. Unless of course we have access to the software for things needed like that.

The coding software is free look up ESCAPPS, INPA, etc. There are also some paid ones that make it a little easier like Carly and Bavarian Technic but don't have all the options as INPA

Other than that, I think that's all I can think of at the moment, I apologize for the long post but I always like interacting on these vehicle forums. The TDI world (and Cummins) has a GREAT group of people who are very knowledgeable and help new members a lot. I love that about these forums. It seems around here is the same way. I also see a lot of questions I may run into in the future have already been answered and completed.

What's my main reason for possibly switching? Something a bit newer than a 2002. Modern, power, diesel, a bit of luxury, and I've always been interested in these cars. But I'm definitely having the inner struggle with giving up the TDI that I've built up from stock and really cared for.

No contest I'll take the 335 over a VW TDI

Hope to hear back from some of you. 1st post, hopefully not last. I'll be keeping my eyes opening in the PNW for getting one if it seems to be a good fit and I can find parts for the swap (I've done business across the way with some vendors that work a lot with VW/Audi). I don't mind travelling as well to find the right car. I would plan on keeping it a very long time especially if it's got the manual transmission in it.

Cheers all!

Answers in red

[krashDH]

Appreciate the responses.
I agree finding one that hasn't been touched is ideal for knowing the baseline.

One I'm looking at has 136k miles and it's all stock still, Carfax for everything since it came out to the first owner. Carfax isn't good about detail for some repairs.
The rap sheet looks good. The only thing that raised my eyebrows was about the timing cover gasket being replaced. The fact that these have a chain makes me wonder why this would be necessary.

Nothing in the history shows any emissions components being replaced, but the car is bone stock. With what plagues these cars emissions wise, I'm very suspect that this car is on the original emissions components. There's a couple mystery entries that didn't have any details also. That's the other thing, I don't like not being able to talk to the original owners and that would be the case for this car.

The benefit of finding one that's already had weight loss would be the fact that assuming someone does it right, the CBU issue would already be taken care of. Walnut blasted if it needs it or whatever. It seems like if I run into that issue, it becomes pretty expensive to get that service done.

That's really all that's on my mind, the one I'm interested in right now the seller came down on price on to move it quickly but it's going to be tough to pull the trigger on. From looking around this weekend it looks like I can find parts for the swap, I just have to piece them together individually.

[awenthol]

I have had manual Cummins' and currently restomodding an '06 48RE (compounds, etc). I have had my (deleted) 335d for almost 10 years. There is no way I would ever even consider making it a manual. It has so much low end power/torque + phenomenal trans, there there is zero point. To each their own--just my $0.02.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by awenthol

I have had manual Cummins' and currently restomodding an '06 48RE (compounds, etc). I have had my (deleted) 335d for almost 10 years. There is no way I would ever even consider making it a manual. It has so much low end power/torque + phenomenal trans, there there is zero point. To each their own--just my $0.02.

Personal preference. I do not like automatics. Have driven plenty. I wouldn't even be considering the 335d if there was no way to put a manual transmission in it.

Appreciate your opinion though

Edit; I'd likely be driving the car as is until I could collect all of the parts for the swap, to get a feel for it. I think the TDI would need to be sold and those funds be used for the swap parts

[BB_cuda]

Welcome to our knothole in the internet galaxy.

More on the manual swap and no mine is still an auto. I'm told by one of the prominent swappers that the cruise control aspect has still not been solved. So maybe that isn't a deal breaker for you but cruise is non op to my understanding.

I love a MT as well but I gotta have cruise. I have 2 other cars with MT so I'm not dying here.

You might also go read up on a different transmission swap. It has become popular to swap to the 8 speed auto transmission that mates up to the later N57 diesel engine. There is a 3 part youtube video out there published by Bradley Tourt. Brad used to be here but has largely migrated to the FB group NABDOG. I understand you aren't a social media user.

One more aspect to sink your teeth into. Wavetrac LSD conversion. I really enjoy this change. I feel the planting as I'm coming through/exiting a high speed corner. I have a sticky on my conversion.

I'm the exception to the rule here. I have owned my 2011 since 6100 miles on it. I got it as a dealer loaner sale. It was 7 months after its in service date. It lost its weight at about 32,000 miles as I wanted to escape the need for CBU cleaning. I rolled the dice and did this ~6 months BEFORE its 4 year warranty was up. I just couldn't let the crap continue to collect up. I had cleaned the EGR's throat 2X before the weight loss.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Welcome to our knothole in the internet galaxy.

More on the manual swap and no mine is still an auto. I'm told by one of the prominent swappers that the cruise control aspect has still not been solved. So maybe that isn't a deal breaker for you but cruise is non op to my understanding.

I love a MT as well but I gotta have cruise. I have 2 other cars with MT so I'm not dying here.

You might also go read up on a different transmission swap. It has become popular to swap to the 8 speed transmission that mates up to the later N57 diesel engine. There is a 3 part youtube video out there published by Bradley Tourt. Brad used to be here but has largely migrated to the FB group NABDOG. I understand you aren't a social media user.

One more aspect to sink your teeth into. Wavetrac LSD conversion. I really enjoy this change. I feel the planting as I'm coming through/exiting a high speed corner. I have a sticky on my conversion.

Hey thanks for the reply and welcome!!

Crusie control isn't a deal breaker. While I have it on both my vehicles currently, I hardly even use it. I find that even when I drive for 10+ hours I don't use it haha. Sure it would be nice to know I have it, but that's not a deal breaker

I actually came across the 8 speed swap in my research. Really don't have any interest in it, manual is what it would have to be for me. I guess you could call me a die hard when it comes to owning manuals, and although I have one in the truck, it doesn't scratch the car itch for having one. If I could keep the TDI, then I might consider leaving it an auto. But it's not realistic for me to have 3 vehicles right now.

I've also kind of come across the LSD swap. While a nice to have, probably wouldn't start down that rabbit hole yet. I'll have to take a look at your thread though.

Appreciate the welcome. I'm putting together the pieces right now and initially reaching out to some contacts I've received from across the pond for parts, as well as here on this side for the tuning side of things, just to know what I'm really getting myself into.

The only pitfall I see right now is I will likely be doing this on the ground, on my back under jack stands at the moment, working solo.

It seems these cars are definitely a niche market and a good group of support (kind of like the TDI's) so that's nice to see.

[lnxguy]

Join the Facebook group, all your questions have been answered many times over.

North American BMW Diesel Owners Group.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Join the Facebook group, all your questions have been answered many times over.

North American BMW Diesel Owners Group.

As I mentioned, I do not do social media, nor plan to. I'm not that old, it's just something I have never been interested in or partake in. If I can't find the answer on the forums, I'd rather get a contact and just talk to someone in person.

I think I found a car that I want though. Going to look/pick it up either tomorrow or Thursday/Friday if all goes well with the drive and inspection.

The majority of the things that plague the car have already been taken care of.

The things I would have to do are look at potentially replacing oil feed line #1 (yes, the long one) if that's the source of a small oil leak and the VCG has not been replaced. It's got yellowing a bit in the headlights, but I've done a lot of projector retrofits and restores using 2k clear at the end. So not concerned about getting those back to good again

2011, 107k, Sport, with the addition of the paddle shifters. Not like I'll be using them long hopefully

[lnxguy]

Low mileage vehicle for the year. What's the asking pricing? If 'stuff' has already fallen off, most of the major issues have been taken care of. VCG isn't a horrible job, just need to take your time and pay attention.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Low mileage vehicle for the year. What's the asking pricing? If 'stuff' has already fallen off, most of the major issues have been taken care of. VCG isn't a horrible job, just need to take your time and pay attention.

And hope for the best to not break off any screws into the head. I've done 2 and both went fine with no breakage. Do be aware of need to purge air out of the lines coming from fuel rail out to the injectors. Also, check into the combination wrench mod to not break off a little nipple on the fuel injector. 19 mm (if memory serves). You grind off a portion of the top "ear" to give you more clearance. All of these tricks are covered many times on FB group.

I was slow to join the FB group but many of my friends made here went over there and were rarely seen back here. Couple this with several "vendors" (bit not official by e90post admin standards) were banned here. They went over there and were able to freely advertise without fear of not paying the proper fees needed here. i saw the light and went over. Of course, your choice in the matter.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

And hope for the best to not break off any screws into the head. I've done 2 and both went fine with no breakage. Do be aware of need to purge air out of the lines coming from fuel rail out to the injectors. Also, check into the combination wrench mod to not break off a little nipple on the fuel injector. 19 mm (if memory serves). You grind off a portion of the top "ear" to give you more clearance. All of these tricks are covered many times on FB group.

I was slow to join the FB group but many of my friends made here went over there and were rarely seen back here. Couple this with several "vendors" (bit not official by e90post admin standards) were banned here. They went over there and were able to freely advertise without fear of not paying the proper fees needed here. i saw the light and went over. Of course, your choice in the matter.

Yup

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Low mileage vehicle for the year. What's the asking pricing? If 'stuff' has already fallen off, most of the major issues have been taken care of. VCG isn't a horrible job, just need to take your time and pay attention.

I got it down to 12k, asking was 13.5

So yeah I brought her home

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

And hope for the best to not break off any screws into the head. I've done 2 and both went fine with no breakage. Do be aware of need to purge air out of the lines coming from fuel rail out to the injectors. Also, check into the combination wrench mod to not break off a little nipple on the fuel injector. 19 mm (if memory serves). You grind off a portion of the top "ear" to give you more clearance. All of these tricks are covered many times on FB group.

I was slow to join the FB group but many of my friends made here went over there and were rarely seen back here. Couple this with several "vendors" (bit not official by e90post admin standards) were banned here. They went over there and were able to freely advertise without fear of not paying the proper fees needed here. i saw the light and went over. Of course, your choice in the matter.

Thanks for the advice about purging. The combination mod, is this for pulling an injector?
Yeah, I might have to create a burner account. We'll see

Teaser:
Also these attachments are huge, if anyone knows how to make them smaller I'd love to know!

[BB_cuda]

Thanks for the advice about purging. The combination mod, is this for pulling an injector?

No, this is for the nut where fuel line attaches to top of injector.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Thanks for the advice about purging. The combination mod, is this for pulling an injector?

No, this is for the nut where fuel line attaches to top of injector.

I have a set of these coming, as recommended in another thread. Will these do the trick?

[lnxguy]

You don't need anything special besides a $30 injector puller off ebay to do the VCG.

Nice looking car, M-Sport steering wheel is a nice upgrade.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

You don't need anything special besides a $30 injector puller off ebay to do the VCG.

Nice looking car, M-Sport steering wheel is a nice upgrade.

Yeah good luck with the e torx in the back without anything "special"...

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by krashDH

I have a set of these coming, as recommended in another thread. Will these do the trick?

You still gotta be careful to not break off the small return line nipple. Further, whenever you do the "Harry Whiskers" injector line #1 air purge, the modified wrench works even with intake manifold already re-installed. Go look for Harry's method in the FB NABDOG group. I've used it twice and works like a charm for me to get it to start.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

You still gotta be careful to not break off the small return line nipple. Further, whenever you do the "Harry Whiskers" injector line #1 air purge, the modified wrench works even with intake manifold already re-installed. Go look for Harry's method in the FB NABDOG group. I've used it twice and works like a charm for me to get it to start.

I don't have FB. Or any social for that matter.

I will read up about purging the lines.
With my commonrail truck I know there's nothing special, you can crack the lines once the truck is shut off, but this is different beast entirely.
I didn't realize at first you had to manually purge the lines.

Hopefully I can make it work with the tools I have currently and the ones I have coming

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Nice looking car, M-Sport steering wheel is a nice upgrade.

Thanks, yeah the PO swapped that out

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

Yeah good luck with the e torx in the back without anything "special"...

Ah yes, that bastard. Luckily I had a tiny wrench I used from one of my nitro cars. Can't remember, but it's small.

OP, don't bother putting that back LOL!

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Ah yes, that bastard. Luckily I had a tiny wrench I used from one of my nitro cars. Can't remember, but it's small.

OP, don't bother putting that back LOL!

Ha, yeah I read about that one, thanks for the heads up. Is there anywhere published where the stock ride height for the different packages and wheels is supposed to be?

I really don't like how low the PO has it with the B14 coilovers. I know they're 30-50mm lowering, but I want to be as max height as I can safely and comfortably get with these. I need to get the bumper and headlights out this weekend for a restoration, and I don't think I can even get my low profile jack under the side points to even get one leg up in the air.

If I can weasel it high enough, Probably gonna have to put a board or ramp under when it's up and then try to level it from the center point, then get jack stands on both sides. Gonna be an event.

No way I'm getting it up on ramps either, even when it's at the max of these Billy's. But I'd like to know some published values of ride heights and I'm coming up empty for these cars.

Edit: Did some digging in newtis and found it