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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Turbo Control, Vacuum System, Pressure Converters etc.



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      07-23-2018, 12:24 AM   #89
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Nice test with a spare turbo. What are the graphs of. Requested vs actual boost? Oh I see. Itís boost vs rpm. Your fist test in the DIS was of a turbine switchover. To me it shows a tired pressure converter. You can see in a video how on release the rod does not move back quickly. Your graph confirms it. Your boost falls off on switchover. At 3000 rpm you should be full LP turbo. Also to check is the compressor bypass. At this exact rpm it also opens.
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      10-04-2018, 06:36 PM   #90
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Where is the EUV for the engine mounts located?
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      10-05-2018, 12:00 AM   #91
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Under the intake manifold by the starter.
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      10-21-2018, 10:49 PM   #92
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i can't get these pressure converter connectors off. Insane design. What's the trick?

Edit: I got it. If yours are anything like mine, they're so brittle it doesn't matter what you do, the stupid clip thing which is maddening and impossible anyway will just shatter. Destroy it with gusto. It's not really needed. The electrical contacts are protected.
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SLOW & SMOKEY. My car loses to every Chevy Malibu unless I mash the throttle.

Mods: *ATM 304SS Turbo-back exhaust, w/ ox-cat *ATM stepped intercooler *ATM silicone tubing kits (hot & cold sides) JR 2.8 tune *Whitbread CP3R90 HPFP *AArod EGR racepipe*Execuhitch hidden hitch *Stage 3 transmission tune

Last edited by nicklockard; 10-21-2018 at 10:56 PM..
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      11-09-2018, 11:25 AM   #93
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Upper rpm power drop

Have been hearing interesting noises on hard accelerations since Ive been deleted (about 4,000miles). Took a video to show the problem. I only let off once at the end of the pull when I hit 120mph... the noise you hear when I hit 105 mph was the power loss. And the fluttering noise while Iím accelerating is weird too...



Anyone have this similar problem or have a guess at what it could be? Iíll be replacing both pressure converters, I got 3 EUVs, new engine mounts and Iíll be testing all my vacuum lines with a handpump this weekend
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      11-13-2018, 12:40 AM   #94
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I would log some essential parameters.
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      11-13-2018, 11:13 AM   #95
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In the process of replacing all vacuum lines and engine mounts right now.. replaced the EUV for the compressor bypass valve, both pressure converters, have the vacuum reservoir coming on Thursday. What parameters do you recommend? I have a nice 200mile trip this weekend, all highway miles (which is where the problem happens).
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      11-13-2018, 11:22 PM   #96
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So fluttering past 2k rpm, you are fueling it good. Loss of power but no limp or cel. Is the car stock or deleted. If latter whoís tune. Fluttered is quite loud sounds like a turbo. Could be your turbo switchover not opening. Try replicating once you renew your vac lines and converters. For logging I would start with speed, rpm, pedal position, boost requested vs actual vs emp, rail requested vs actual and airmass requested vs actual. Once you narrow it down you can start logging more specific parameters. Use TestO for logging. If you do a lot of parameters donot on short full fuelling runs and not on an extended trip. Too much data.
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      11-14-2018, 06:33 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
So fluttering past 2k rpm, you are fueling it good. Loss of power but no limp or cel. Is the car stock or deleted. If latter whoís tune. Fluttered is quite loud sounds like a turbo. Could be your turbo switchover not opening. Try replicating once you renew your vac lines and converters. For logging I would start with speed, rpm, pedal position, boost requested vs actual vs emp, rail requested vs actual and airmass requested vs actual. Once you narrow it down you can start logging more specific parameters. Use TestO for logging. If you do a lot of parameters donot on short full fuelling runs and not on an extended trip. Too much data.
No limp or cel it seems like boost dies for a sec, then it builds back up and will haul ass through the rest of the gear. And yes sounds like turbo surge to me.. car is deleted. But it had the same fluttering problem before the delete so I donít think the tune is the problem. I just didnít have enough power to surge the turbo before. And I will try to log some short data on those parameters replicating whatís happening if the vacuum lines donít solve the problem.

Canít I manually test the turbo switch over with a vacuum pump to see if the rod moves or not?
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      11-16-2018, 09:59 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RL18 View Post

Canít I manually test the turbo switch over with a vacuum pump to see if the rod moves or not?
You sure can and should check to make sure vacuum actuator holds vacuum.
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      11-17-2018, 07:29 AM   #99
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I’ve changed both pressure converters, vacuum reservoir, turbine bypass, euv for compressor bypass, euv for egr bypass, pretty much all the vacuum lines (except vacuum lines going to the engine mounts). Been using the vacuum lines you recommend with stainless steel fittings too. Problem is still the same though.
I’m going to change the Map sensor since it’s never been changed, do swirl flap, race pipe, change euv for engine mounts, change all lines for engine mounts. Finding time is difficult with my job though and finding a warm place to tear into my car. I will try to get Testo going too
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      12-10-2018, 07:01 AM   #100
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IMO the parts you just listed wouldn't help find the issue.. you should get the torque app or a handheld scanner and log stuff like boost, EGT's and AFR and see what your car is doing while this issue is happening.
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      12-10-2018, 11:52 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335stoner View Post
IMO the parts you just listed wouldn't help find the issue.. you should get the torque app or a handheld scanner and log stuff like boost, EGT's and AFR and see what your car is doing while this issue is happening.
Problem was found... sorry. My dumb ass put the old pressure converters back in and threw away the new ones lol. Actually changed them and it's good now
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      12-10-2018, 03:23 PM   #102
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good thing you got it figured out!
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      12-10-2018, 07:46 PM   #103
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Running like a champ now
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      05-03-2019, 02:45 AM   #104
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Hey all,

I am having some issues with my 2010 X5 35d, just found this expert vacuum thread and thought that you guys might be able to shed some light on my issues. After diagnosing different components, I'm reaching a conclusion that I have some kind of vacuum issue that's affecting the vehicle's idle.

1. From a complete stop I floor the throttle, engine doesn't react but slowly strugges, revving(shuddering) until just past 2000rpms. Then there's an audible 'click' from an engine bay, almost like a metal flap was suddenly opened or closed. As soon as the 'click' happens, the car takes off like it should normally if you were to floor the gas pedal.

2. If I start the car, pressing the brake with my left foot and holding it, try to rev the engine with my right foot, the revs slowly climb until 2000 rpms, then going past seems to rev up normally(almost like the brake booster vacuum is preventing normal airflow under 2000rpms).

I just ordered a vacuum line smoke tester and hand pump, and will try to follow some of the checks in the beginning of the thread. If anybody had similar symptoms with their 335d or 35d, please let me know. I am not sure where to look at this point. Here's my original thread:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...misfire-2.html

Thanks in advance!
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      05-08-2019, 11:59 PM   #105
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Of your pressure converters with vacuum lines have any miles I would just replace.
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      05-12-2019, 09:13 PM   #106
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What was the end fix here?
My dilemma...

I have....
Minor whistle and a bit of power but slow at best
(ALL POWER SEEMS PRESENT FROM 2100-2300 RPM AND UP)
INTERMITTANTLY ONLY UPON START UP AND FOR FIRST 25 SECONDS DRIVE TIME HP TURBO WILL SPOOL AND GOOD POWER RIGHT FROM 1000~RPM- THEN AFTER FIRST BOOST OR 25 SECONDS ALL POWER BELOW 2100RPM IS WEAK IF ANY BOOST AT ALL-

I INSTALLED A CAT PIPE PROVIDED TO ME AND IT WASN'T TOO LONG AFTER THAT I THOUGHT THAT THE NEW PIPE (rather then Straight pipe)WAS JUST MAKING THE CAR DOGGY-
SO I THOUGHT I WILL PUT THE DELETE PIPE BACK IN TO SEE IF POWER CHANGES TO ACCEPTABLE AND IT WAS STILL NOT AT FULL POWER ON LOWER RPM- (ONCE STRAIGHT DOWN PIPE BACK ON IT WAS OBVIOUS THAT THERE WAS NO TURBO WHISTLE LIKE WHEN I FIRST HAD IT INSTALLED)


PARTS REPLACED AND SWAPPED FOR TESTING-
REPLACED- EUV VALVE FOR HP TURBO COMPRESSOR BYPASS(BROKEN WHEN REPLACING ALL VAC LINES)-
EPDW- REPLACES BOTH TURBINE CONTROL VALVE AND LP WASTEGATE- (BMW OEM) SITTING ON PASS SEAT-
VALVE COVER REPLACED
CYL6 INJ REPL 148K OR SO

TESTING-
VAC TESTED FOR OVER ALL VACUUM- SITS AT 25-27IN-HG(tested inline to vac reservoir and with engine mounts disconnect there and also blocked off vac to booster)
VAC HOLDING FOR ACTUATOR ON COMPRESSOR BYPASS VALVE
VAC HOLDING FOR TURBINE CONTROL(checked for seizure-all ok)
VAC HOLDING FOR LP WASTEGATE

INSTALLED BRAND NEW OEM MASS AIR METER- NO CHANGE-(DIDNT ADAPT)-reinstalled old with no change

TURBO FEED LINES HAVE BEEN SEEPING- Replaced both excessible easy ones-inspected for coking and all good

I am so lost here.
I will be trying to do re-adatations this week for everything possible.
Hoping to order FOXWELL NT 510... then hoping it can do this...? Input?
Sorry for caps
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      05-12-2019, 10:30 PM   #107
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I feel your pain vazyx. It chaps my hide that they put this failure-prone, crummy, lousy vacuum control system on an otherwise fine car with no position monitoring or feedback. Vacuum diagnostics are a fruitless, giant time suck.

If there are aftermarket developers out there, please make a better actuation system with feedback (closed loop control) that does not depend on vacuum! This thing sucks. The turbo's almost NEVER perform properly. It's sad really.
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Mods: *ATM 304SS Turbo-back exhaust, w/ ox-cat *ATM stepped intercooler *ATM silicone tubing kits (hot & cold sides) JR 2.8 tune *Whitbread CP3R90 HPFP *AArod EGR racepipe*Execuhitch hidden hitch *Stage 3 transmission tune
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      05-13-2019, 09:25 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklockard View Post
I feel your pain vazyx. It chaps my hide that they put this failure-prone, crummy, lousy vacuum control system on an otherwise fine car with no position monitoring or feedback. Vacuum diagnostics are a fruitless, giant time suck.

If there are aftermarket developers out there, please make a better actuation system with feedback (closed loop control) that does not depend on vacuum! This thing sucks. The turbo's almost NEVER perform properly. It's sad really.
Got dde re adapted on all service functions that exist at the dealership and no change.
Came home used a snap-on solus newer generation Brick reset all emissions parameters(ABC and jr 2.8)
And boom.
Graffing with this for boost requested and boost attained and it's there.
Wait and see for a few days.
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      05-14-2019, 03:30 PM   #109
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Low pressure could also be from a stuck open egr as I just saw in another thread... Even if you have it tuned out clean your egr to make sure it seals shut, or use a block off plate if tuned.
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      05-15-2019, 10:04 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklockard View Post
I feel your pain vazyx. It chaps my hide that they put this failure-prone, crummy, lousy vacuum control system on an otherwise fine car with no position monitoring or feedback. Vacuum diagnostics are a fruitless, giant time suck.

If there are aftermarket developers out there, please make a better actuation system with feedback (closed loop control) that does not depend on vacuum! This thing sucks. The turbo's almost NEVER perform properly. It's sad really.
Been thinking about this too. I am building a pressure convertor feedback system for my 335D as a first step. The feedback will be at the output of the PC. This will also allow me to adjust system gain and offset electronically.

Second step will be to move the feedback to the output of the vacuum actuator. I was thinking about using a slide potentiometer but heat, resistance tolerance and resistance linearity could be problematic.

I also would prefer to do away with the vacuum actuators entirely and use linear actuators but heat and cost likely wouldn't make this approach viable.
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