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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Methonal water injection for 335d



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      01-13-2015, 09:43 PM   #89
demon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
This totally depends on how you set it up and how much thought goes into being ready to reverse. Mine I can reverse in no more than a half hour, I just unbolt the pump from the strut tower, remove the hose, put a connector into the washer line in order to remove the y connection to the pump, and then put a plug in the intake pipe. Very simple process. I can see it being much more complicated depending on how one chooses to install it though.
I have a meth kit from my other hot rod that I want to re-purpose to the D.
I have not even looked how to connect it yet but using the washer is the way I want to start.
Is the intercooler pipe heavy enough gauge to simply tap into it?
Do you use a threaded plug when you reverse?
Where do you connect to the manifold for boost reference?

Last edited by demon; 01-13-2015 at 10:09 PM..
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      01-13-2015, 10:43 PM   #90
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Yes the pipe is thick enough. I just under tapped the hole a little small. It's npt so the less depth you tap the smaller the hole is. The plug is just an npt plug nothing special.

My system is controlled different from most everyone else, it's controlled through the jbd so there is no boost tap it's all based on fuel rail pressure.
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      01-19-2015, 08:03 AM   #91
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Anybody have a pinout of the map sensor? I haven't gotten mine up on the rack yet, but I'm going to try to get my Devil's Own kit on sometime in the near future. I figured that I'd ask to save time instead of dig around.

Last edited by Gearhead51; 01-19-2015 at 08:06 AM.. Reason: Found the MAP sensor location
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      01-24-2015, 02:23 PM   #92
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When ordering the meth kit. What maximum rpm should I put? I have the Jr stage 2 EGR dpf and SCR delete.
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      01-24-2015, 02:54 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
Yes the pipe is thick enough. I just under tapped the hole a little small. It's npt so the less depth you tap the smaller the hole is. The plug is just an npt plug nothing special.

My system is controlled different from most everyone else, it's controlled through the jbd so there is no boost tap it's all based on fuel rail pressure.
Do you have a write up on this anywhere? That sounds like a good idea, since our cars produce boost so quickly
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      01-24-2015, 04:18 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by gtp900 View Post
Do you have a write up on this anywhere? That sounds like a good idea, since our cars produce boost so quickly
I don't have one. My controller was made by BMS and integrated into the JBD. It's literally a JBD with one extra wire coming out for the progressive controller which is the little black box that most of the meth manufacturers use
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      01-24-2015, 05:58 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
I don't have one. My controller was made by BMS and integrated into the JBD. It's literally a JBD with one extra wire coming out for the progressive controller which is the little black box that most of the meth manufacturers use
I wonder if the boards are the same. Got any pics of the PCB? Maybe folks could just solder the lead on.
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      02-03-2015, 07:51 PM   #96
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For those who used the washer tank, did you tap it directly from the tank, or use a T connector through the headlight washer line? The headlight washer line seemed pretty large.
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      02-03-2015, 08:39 PM   #97
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I tapped the windshield washer line up near the windshield
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      02-04-2015, 01:07 AM   #98
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How big of a tank do you guys use? And how often do you refill for normal daily driving?
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      02-04-2015, 12:21 PM   #99
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Any dyno figures yet?
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      02-04-2015, 07:00 PM   #100
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Where would I tap into for the boost reading?
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      02-04-2015, 09:01 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
This totally depends on how you set it up and how much thought goes into being ready to reverse. Mine I can reverse in no more than a half hour, I just unbolt the pump from the strut tower, remove the hose, put a connector into the washer line in order to remove the y connection to the pump, and then put a plug in the intake pipe. Very simple process. I can see it being much more complicated depending on how one chooses to install it though.

Care to share a picture or two?
I have looked at mine and formulating ideas but would like to see how someone else has already solved the problem.
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      02-05-2015, 10:07 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumalei View Post
How big of a tank do you guys use? And how often do you refill for normal daily driving?
I use a 2.5 gallon tank and usually burn through 3 gallons per one tank of fuel.
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      02-05-2015, 11:16 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevers314 View Post
I use a 2.5 gallon tank and usually burn through 3 gallons per one tank of fuel.
Holy crap you must be on it a lot! I only go through 1.5 gallons in 3-4 tanks
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      02-05-2015, 11:26 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demon View Post
Care to share a picture or two?
I have looked at mine and formulating ideas but would like to see how someone else has already solved the problem.
Here you go. I mounted the pump on a short piece of 1x1x1/8 angle which I welded to the length of steel bar you can see attached to the strut tower. The hose runs from there back to the y at the windshield washer line, and the other direction runs through that solenoid valve there and then under the coolant reservoir over to the charge pipe. For the y at the windshield washer side I just used a cheap ptfe fitting (have to use something that will stand up to the methanol) and ran to the filter and then the pump. You can see it just runs along the cowl there. There is also a backflow preventer in the line somewhere which isnt pictured.



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      02-05-2015, 03:35 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
Here you go. I mounted the pump on a short piece of 1x1x1/8 angle which I welded to the length of steel bar you can see attached to the strut tower. The hose runs from there back to the y at the windshield washer line, and the other direction runs through that solenoid valve there and then under the coolant reservoir over to the charge pipe. For the y at the windshield washer side I just used a cheap ptfe fitting (have to use something that will stand up to the methanol) and ran to the filter and then the pump. You can see it just runs along the cowl there. There is also a backflow preventer in the line somewhere which isnt pictured.
WOW Really Appreciate that! Looks cleaner than what I was thinking about.
Really like the way you tapped the washer tank.

When I start working on mine I'll take pictures for the community also.
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      02-05-2015, 03:50 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demon View Post
WOW Really Appreciate that! Looks cleaner than what I was thinking about.
Really like the way you tapped the washer tank.

When I start working on mine I'll take pictures for the community also.
yeah you could make it a lot cleaner too by just tying the wires up neatly or hiding them. As you can tell from all the dust under the hood, I dont show off my engine much so I dont really care as long as its not going to cause an issue.
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      02-05-2015, 04:18 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
...As you can tell from all the dust under the hood, I dont show off my engine much so I dont really care as long as its not going to cause an issue.
Like the tree debris by the hood drain area. Looks like my car :-)

My experience with tapping into the washer fluid line was mixed. I had issues getting air into the lines and causing inconsistent injection/flow. The AEM flow gauge was useful for identifying this issue that otherwise I would've been unaware of. Having some clear lines in the connection to the pump would also be a good idea as you could see if air is finding its way in there.
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      02-05-2015, 04:29 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Like the tree debris by the hood drain area. Looks like my car :-)

My experience with tapping into the washer fluid line was mixed. I had issues getting air into the lines and causing inconsistent injection/flow. The AEM flow gauge was useful for identifying this issue that otherwise I would've been unaware of. Having some clear lines in the connection to the pump would also be a good idea as you could see if air is finding its way in there.
Yeah clear lines help to see any air. I havent really noticed any air in the lines, but like you said it could be hard to tell. Logically with the backflow preventer in the washer nozzle line past the y and the solenoid in the pumped line, there shouldnt be any way to get air in the system once its out, but those probably arent particularly reliable parts.
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      02-05-2015, 04:35 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
Yeah clear lines help to see any air. I havent really noticed any air in the lines, but like you said it could be hard to tell. Logically with the backflow preventer in the washer nozzle line past the y and the solenoid in the pumped line, there shouldnt be any way to get air in the system once its out, but those probably arent particularly reliable parts.
And it might also be my environment. It was -14F air temps this morning. It'll be ~40F tomorrow. And the summers can be well over 100F. The extreme temp changes aren't particularly friendly to the quick connect fittings.
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      02-06-2015, 09:44 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevers314 View Post
I use a 2.5 gallon tank and usually burn through 3 gallons per one tank of fuel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
Holy crap you must be on it a lot! I only go through 1.5 gallons in 3-4 tanks
Wow lol. I guess that really depends on how you drive it. I am deciding between Devilsown DVC-30 and Snow performance #Snow Performance 47002 Stage 2 Diesel Boost Cooler Kit. Both of them are a stage 2 progressive kit but snow performance come with a 3 Quart tank.
I don't drive it hard a lot. My main purpose is cleaning the carbon. Do you guys think is worth it?
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