[slewis140]

Just wanted to say thanks to all the people that have posted here. Just completed an install in my driveway on stands. The patient was my 08 335i with 117000 miles on the clock. Just put some RB ones on there. While in there I did the valve cover, oilpan gasket and stock location silicone inlets. All in all took me about 20ish hours over 3 weeks working on and off. Only found trouble with manifold studs and getting the lines off the turbos prior to pulling them off the block but once you get going things really start to make sense. Leave yourself plenty of time to do this and you should be fine. Prior to this I completed the smaller jobs over the life of the car (waterpump, thermostat, dps ect.

[T i h o r]

Originally Posted by slewis140

Just wanted to say thanks to all the people that have posted here. Just completed an install in my driveway on stands. The patient was my 08 335i with 117000 miles on the clock. Just put some RB ones on there. While in there I did the valve cover, oilpan gasket and stock location silicone inlets. All in all took me about 20ish hours over 3 weeks working on and off. Only found trouble with manifold studs and getting the lines off the turbos prior to pulling them off the block but once you get going things really start to make sense. Leave yourself plenty of time to do this and you should be fine. Prior to this I completed the smaller jobs over the life of the car (waterpump, thermostat, dps ect.

How do you like the RB Turbos? A shop I spoke to locally didn't recommend them as he's had a few customers with them on, come back to have them removed.

Also, out of curiosity which centrer-section (TD03 or TD04) and package did you go with (next gen, super, stealth)?

TIA!

[Sprinting]

Hello, Im just using this diy to change my leaking turbo coolant lines. Taking them off was hard, but i got it.

Any tips for putting the rear top return line?

I know this guide says to put the rear and the front line on before the turbos, but I dont want to have to take my turbo off to do this. Thanks!

[jordi992]

is it possible to re upload the photos?

[335xiyiyi]

Great write up and pics, espeically the first ones showing the turbo intake and exhaust circuits and side view of exhaust side.

I removed and replaced the downpipes twice on 07 335 xi and dropped the subframe while holding the motor from below with a small floor jack. There was no need to remove the steering rack or any of the other suspension components (tie rods, sway bar, etc).

However, I read on a forum somewhere that someone is able to get to these by pulling the passenger side axle out some and not dropping subframe at all.

I need to get back in there because I have a coolant leak (steam) coming from almost exact center of turbo side and suspecting these lines or connections.

Do turbos need removal to get lines off? Thanks again for the great write up.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by jordi992

is it possible to re upload the photos?

They are still there you just have to click them. Photobucket is a bad place to host any diy anymore

[2008-335xi-N54-E92]

Originally Posted by 335xiyiyi

Great write up and pics, espeically the first ones showing the turbo intake and exhaust circuits and side view of exhaust side.

I removed and replaced the downpipes twice on 07 335 xi and dropped the subframe while holding the motor from below with a small floor jack. There was no need to remove the steering rack or any of the other suspension components (tie rods, sway bar, etc).

However, I read on a forum somewhere that someone is able to get to these by pulling the passenger side axle out some and not dropping subframe at all.

I need to get back in there because I have a coolant leak (steam) coming from almost exact center of turbo side and suspecting these lines or connections.

Do turbos need removal to get lines off? Thanks again for the great write up.

Turbo replace without dropping subframe or removing any drive axel or tires. After that delete my primary cat myself that took 7 min to gutt out both cats.


Primary Cat down pipe self delete & Turbo replace.

This is just the primary cat delete I didn't delete my secondary!!!!!


I just replace both my turbo on my 2008 335xi N54 and decided to delete the primary cats myself before re-installing the stock down pipes back on.

Look guys replacing your stock turbos isn't so bad like what other people say. I have an XI and did not have to lower or remove my subframe at all. I didn't even remove my tires or any steering pinions or wheel control. Every thing that was hooked up to my front passenger side tire remain from start to finish.

Now the only thing I did differently from every one is I cut off the rear flat metal in the back of the subframe that is right underneath the two front catylic converter pipe so I can pull them off without removing the subframe. I decide to save time and since I have a welder I simply spot weld it back. I only cut out about 9" worth of flat piece of metal that is there for nothing any ways.

For turbo replacing there's three main items that needs to be remove and the rest are pretty much easy SO NO NEED TO DROP ANY SUBFRAME or removing your tires or axel even on my 2008 335XI which is AWD! I jack up my front and put my front tires on a ramp for better support since I don't need to remove any front rims it's more stable then to keep the car jacked up on the side.

1) for me I cut a piece of the flat rear sub frame out (see photos).

2) remove both primary cats by pulling through the cut out frame mention on #1

3) remove the engine mount completely the bracket and the rubber round mount on the right that sits on the frame next to front passenger brake disc (maker sure to support the engine before removing any bolts to engine mount) I use a standard car scissor jack sitting on top of a brick.

4) the rest are pretty much simple but those three are the main key.

5) remove front turbo cat first then the rear cat.

6) which turbo to remove first? The rear turbo comes off first to make room for the front turbo to slide out and drop down through the cut out frame. There is a trick in getting both turbos out since it will get jam but just keep turning it with the wast gate down first and the headers on top it will slide right through the tight space but there are enough room for both compete turbo to come out.

7) installing new turbo just repeat these steps but in reverse, meaning turbo goes in first and so on.

Instead of buying aftermarket down pipes that is useless and unnecessary I decided to gut all the Cats components and keep the stock look but without the signs of cats missing since I live in California.

The entire process took me about 7 mins to gut both primary cats with the following tools and I'm not exaggerating one bit.

1) cordless drill with 1/2" slots minimum to hold my long standard wood drill bit (see photos). My drill bit is 12 inches long because I happen to own this one but a shorter one like 10 inches or a standard 6!inch wood drill spade bit from Home Depot or harbor freight will work as long as you have some kind of adapter to extend it.
2) a hammer.
3) and extra pipe to shove in after drilling.

NOTE: There is NO NEED to cut and weld any of these stock down pipe catylic converter to remove the honey comb at all!!!!! It so simple. Now if you happen to own a short drill bit and have to extend it to another drill bit sleeve and duct tape it together it will also work, and don't worry if the drill bit get stuck and come apart into the muffler because the honey come is like foam and it will break easily to remove the bit.

What will also work if you don't have a drill bit long enough a standard car jack crow bar with a sharp end to remove your tire lug nut will work as well but it might take longer then 7 min to do both.


1st. I drill through the end of the stock cat that I can see the honey comb and done it this way with each stock cats.

2nd. Drill many different holes through breaking the honey comb and turn each pipe over to dump out the broken internal pieces. Repeat the drilling process over and over after dumping out the broken pieces until it's almost gone.

3rd. I then use the hammer to bang each outer side of the round part of where I drill knocking the inside loose and breaking the side glue.

4th. And that's it repeat with the other cat and re-install the O2 sensors.

Whole process took me exactly 3 min with one cat and 4 min on the other. How and why??? Well because the first one will take 4 min longer then the 2nd one....why? Because once you get the hang of doing the first one the second one is easier and don't be afraid to bang hard on the outside part of the catt because you won't hurt it or break it. I bang the chit of mine and put a few scratches and dents but it's a stock down pipe it's fugly and hideous as is.


Lastly I don't understand how people can reply to other posting about check engine light coming on or no power gain and so on so on if they haven't done it themselves.

After I install it back and start the car here's the end result.

1) the sound of the muffler is awesome like a tuned car with after market muffler but using my stock down pipe.

2) non of my check engine light for O2 sensor came on (at least not yet going on a week now)

3) I definitely feel more torque and more response from the turbo soon as I floor the pedal it definitely boost faster then before.

4) regrading any more horse power I'd have to say yes I gain more power from it. How many???? I don't know maybe 1 horse power more maybe 15 or 30 but I doesn't matter to me because if I gain 1 HP that's more then what I had before and the 2nd reason why I didn't care if I gain more then 1 or 30 horse power is the sound is GOOOOOOOOD, and the response from the turbo is INSTANT!!!!

5) I remove my stock air filter and order a cheapie $25 cones air filters from eBay and I define hear the turbo hiss from that and I love it.

Any ways this is what my end results are and so I can't speak for others since I did mine and this is what I got maybe some people do get the check engine lights but again all cars are not the same some cars DME might be set differently with other options turned on when mine isn't....it's like one buys a f150 and it last that person 20 years when the next guy buys the same kind of f150 and it breaks down 6 months later. It's the bad batch of cat that person happens to buy!!!

Sooooo any post or comment that says none of what I did can't be good or done or will make your car go into limp mode is FULL of Ccchhhhiiit since they haven't done it they shouldn't discourage people with what they ThOUGHT!!!!


So guys if you want to save money from ridiculous stainless steel down pipe that looks shiny and fancy by crawling under the car to appreciate it then this is the way to go. I mean what better way to guarantee your bolt pattern will fit perfectly or if or O2 sensor are going to fit back in right then to use your stock parts that was engineered by the BMW factory themselves.


As far as how long it took for me to replace my own turbos well that took me 12 hours from start to finish since I have to crawl under neath my car like 200 times for smoke break and cursing break from busting my fingers and hands. In the end it was all worth it.

And I didn't buy new turbos or rebuild my old one I simply bought two used complete turbo off eBay for $275 for both, I checked the blades for play or rattling before installing it. The turbo I bought off eBay were from a car that gotten into a wreck and I don't care if it breaks down in a week or month because now I know how to replace my turbo the way I did before and knowing it wasn't so bad or too hard I'd do it again if I had to next week but thats just me since I'm the owner of the car and need to be the one working on it any ways!!!


I will guarantee every one that my BMW 335xi will be breaking down real soon....again....and I will be fixing more crap on it like every car out there. What I'm saying is buying new parts or used parts is all the same it's when things break if the person know how to fix it makes a difference. If some one told me it's a high risk Im taking for installing used turbos instead of new one my question back would be "What about my engine? Shouldn't I replace the engine with new since you recommend me to buy brand new turbo instead of used?"

[2008-335xi-N54-E92]

Originally Posted by 335xiyiyi

Great write up and pics, espeically the first ones showing the turbo intake and exhaust circuits and side view of exhaust side.

I removed and replaced the downpipes twice on 07 335 xi and dropped the subframe while holding the motor from below with a small floor jack. There was no need to remove the steering rack or any of the other suspension components (tie rods, sway bar, etc).

However, I read on a forum somewhere that someone is able to get to these by pulling the passenger side axle out some and not dropping subframe at all.

I need to get back in there because I have a coolant leak (steam) coming from almost exact center of turbo side and suspecting these lines or connections.

Do turbos need removal to get lines off? Thanks again for the great write up.

No the turbo DOES NOT need to come out but the turbo charge aluminum pipe will need to be remove to get access to the top water inlet that's between the two turbo headers towards the top of the engine block

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by 2008-335xi-N54-E92

Turbo replace without dropping subframe or removing any drive axel or tires. After that delete my primary cat myself that took 7 min to gutt out both cats.


Primary Cat down pipe self delete & Turbo replace.

This is just the primary cat delete I didn't delete my secondary!!!!!


I just replace both my turbo on my 2008 335xi N54 and decided to delete the primary cats myself before re-installing the stock down pipes back on.

Look guys replacing your stock turbos isn't so bad like what other people say. I have an XI and did not have to lower or remove my subframe at all. I didn't even remove my tires or any steering pinions or wheel control. Every thing that was hooked up to my front passenger side tire remain from start to finish.

Now the only thing I did differently from every one is I cut off the rear flat metal in the back of the subframe that is right underneath the two front catylic converter pipe so I can pull them off without removing the subframe. I decide to save time and since I have a welder I simply spot weld it back. I only cut out about 9" worth of flat piece of metal that is there for nothing any ways.

For turbo replacing there's three main items that needs to be remove and the rest are pretty much easy SO NO NEED TO DROP ANY SUBFRAME or removing your tires or axel even on my 2008 335XI which is AWD! I jack up my front and put my front tires on a ramp for better support since I don't need to remove any front rims it's more stable then to keep the car jacked up on the side.

1) for me I cut a piece of the flat rear sub frame out (see photos).

2) remove both primary cats by pulling through the cut out frame mention on #1

3) remove the engine mount completely the bracket and the rubber round mount on the right that sits on the frame next to front passenger brake disc (maker sure to support the engine before removing any bolts to engine mount) I use a standard car scissor jack sitting on top of a brick.

4) the rest are pretty much simple but those three are the main key.

5) remove front turbo cat first then the rear cat.

6) which turbo to remove first? The rear turbo comes off first to make room for the front turbo to slide out and drop down through the cut out frame. There is a trick in getting both turbos out since it will get jam but just keep turning it with the wast gate down first and the headers on top it will slide right through the tight space but there are enough room for both compete turbo to come out.

7) installing new turbo just repeat these steps but in reverse, meaning turbo goes in first and so on.

Instead of buying aftermarket down pipes that is useless and unnecessary I decided to gut all the Cats components and keep the stock look but without the signs of cats missing since I live in California.

The entire process took me about 7 mins to gut both primary cats with the following tools and I'm not exaggerating one bit.

1) cordless drill with 1/2" slots minimum to hold my long standard wood drill bit (see photos). My drill bit is 12 inches long because I happen to own this one but a shorter one like 10 inches or a standard 6!inch wood drill spade bit from Home Depot or harbor freight will work as long as you have some kind of adapter to extend it.
2) a hammer.
3) and extra pipe to shove in after drilling.

NOTE: There is NO NEED to cut and weld any of these stock down pipe catylic converter to remove the honey comb at all!!!!! It so simple. Now if you happen to own a short drill bit and have to extend it to another drill bit sleeve and duct tape it together it will also work, and don't worry if the drill bit get stuck and come apart into the muffler because the honey come is like foam and it will break easily to remove the bit.

What will also work if you don't have a drill bit long enough a standard car jack crow bar with a sharp end to remove your tire lug nut will work as well but it might take longer then 7 min to do both.


1st. I drill through the end of the stock cat that I can see the honey comb and done it this way with each stock cats.

2nd. Drill many different holes through breaking the honey comb and turn each pipe over to dump out the broken internal pieces. Repeat the drilling process over and over after dumping out the broken pieces until it's almost gone.

3rd. I then use the hammer to bang each outer side of the round part of where I drill knocking the inside loose and breaking the side glue.

4th. And that's it repeat with the other cat and re-install the O2 sensors.

Whole process took me exactly 3 min with one cat and 4 min on the other. How and why??? Well because the first one will take 4 min longer then the 2nd one....why? Because once you get the hang of doing the first one the second one is easier and don't be afraid to bang hard on the outside part of the catt because you won't hurt it or break it. I bang the chit of mine and put a few scratches and dents but it's a stock down pipe it's fugly and hideous as is.


Lastly I don't understand how people can reply to other posting about check engine light coming on or no power gain and so on so on if they haven't done it themselves.

After I install it back and start the car here's the end result.

1) the sound of the muffler is awesome like a tuned car with after market muffler but using my stock down pipe.

2) non of my check engine light for O2 sensor came on (at least not yet going on a week now)

3) I definitely feel more torque and more response from the turbo soon as I floor the pedal it definitely boost faster then before.

4) regrading any more horse power I'd have to say yes I gain more power from it. How many???? I don't know maybe 1 horse power more maybe 15 or 30 but I doesn't matter to me because if I gain 1 HP that's more then what I had before and the 2nd reason why I didn't care if I gain more then 1 or 30 horse power is the sound is GOOOOOOOOD, and the response from the turbo is INSTANT!!!!

5) I remove my stock air filter and order a cheapie $25 cones air filters from eBay and I define hear the turbo hiss from that and I love it.

Any ways this is what my end results are and so I can't speak for others since I did mine and this is what I got maybe some people do get the check engine lights but again all cars are not the same some cars DME might be set differently with other options turned on when mine isn't....it's like one buys a f150 and it last that person 20 years when the next guy buys the same kind of f150 and it breaks down 6 months later. It's the bad batch of cat that person happens to buy!!!

Sooooo any post or comment that says none of what I did can't be good or done or will make your car go into limp mode is FULL of Ccchhhhiiit since they haven't done it they shouldn't discourage people with what they ThOUGHT!!!!


So guys if you want to save money from ridiculous stainless steel down pipe that looks shiny and fancy by crawling under the car to appreciate it then this is the way to go. I mean what better way to guarantee your bolt pattern will fit perfectly or if or O2 sensor are going to fit back in right then to use your stock parts that was engineered by the BMW factory themselves.


As far as how long it took for me to replace my own turbos well that took me 12 hours from start to finish since I have to crawl under neath my car like 200 times for smoke break and cursing break from busting my fingers and hands. In the end it was all worth it.

And I didn't buy new turbos or rebuild my old one I simply bought two used complete turbo off eBay for $275 for both, I checked the blades for play or rattling before installing it. The turbo I bought off eBay were from a car that gotten into a wreck and I don't care if it breaks down in a week or month because now I know how to replace my turbo the way I did before and knowing it wasn't so bad or too hard I'd do it again if I had to next week but thats just me since I'm the owner of the car and need to be the one working on it any ways!!!


I will guarantee every one that my BMW 335xi will be breaking down real soon....again....and I will be fixing more crap on it like every car out there. What I'm saying is buying new parts or used parts is all the same it's when things break if the person know how to fix it makes a difference. If some one told me it's a high risk Im taking for installing used turbos instead of new one my question back would be "What about my engine? Shouldn't I replace the engine with new since you recommend me to buy brand new turbo instead of used?"

I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. Seriously though, please don't do stuff like this.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. Seriously though, please don't do stuff like this.

Confirmed.

[brandonwhit97]

Originally Posted by rpa440

Very Good !

Not to start a new thread, however I am replacing my turbos soon to the best twins available (currently mmp 1000 and Vargas gc 2.0 with high flow). I have an 2009 e92 335 x drive m sport with 180000 on the clock Currently I plan on installing;
Turbos (Vargas Gc 2.0)
Catless down pipes (vrsf)
Intake with inlets (Turner hot side intake kit)
Oil pan gasket
Vargas silicon coolant lines.

I do not plan to increase hp for a a few months, mainly just doing prep. Is there any other parts people would recommend replacing/ upgrading while the subframe is dromed such as engine mounts or bushing that are much easier to get to while under the car?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by brandonwhit97

Not to start a new thread, however I am replacing my turbos soon to the best twins available (currently mmp 1000 and Vargas gc 2.0 with high flow). I have an 2009 e92 335 x drive m sport with 180000 on the clock Currently I plan on installing;
Turbos (Vargas Gc 2.0)
Catless down pipes (vrsf)
Intake with inlets (Turner hot side intake kit)
Oil pan gasket
Vargas silicon coolant lines.

I do not plan to increase hp for a a few months, mainly just doing prep. Is there any other parts people would recommend replacing/ upgrading while the subframe is dromed such as engine mounts or bushing that are much easier to get to while under the car?

Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?

Do you have an upgraded FMIC?

Engine & trans mounts are advised

New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.

You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.

I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.

Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades.

[Rule1977]

RB and Pure are the best twins available by far. The RB GF's are the cream of the crop IMO.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Rule1977

RB and Pure are the best twins available by far. The RB GF's are the cream of the crop IMO.

Agreed. My only thing is that Pure is very "proud" of their turbos. The price of them when compared to RB is considerably higher.

From all accounts Pure & RB have the fewest failure rates.

[brandonwhit97]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?

Do you have an upgraded FMIC?

Engine & trans mounts are advised

New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.

You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.

I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.

Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades.

Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?

Do you have an upgraded FMIC?

Engine & trans mounts are advised

New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.

You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.

I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.

Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades.[/QUOTE]

I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.

With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.

I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.

Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.

Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.

Baslicly the end goal is big power, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning.

I also replaced my clutch with a is clutch bout 10000 miles ago, so that's fine until I'm pushing big numbers

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by brandonwhit97

Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?

Do you have an upgraded FMIC?

Engine & trans mounts are advised

New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.

You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.

I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.

Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades.

I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.

With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.

I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.

Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.

Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.

Baslicly the end goal is big poer, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning[/QUOTE]
You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.

I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!

As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!

The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..

You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.

If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.

If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.

I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.

To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:

2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles)

[brandonwhit97]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.

With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.

I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.

Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.

Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.

Baslicly the end goal is big poer, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning

You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.

I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!

As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!

The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..

You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.

If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.

If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.

I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.

To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:

2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles)[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.

With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.

I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.

Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.

Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.

Baslicly the end goal is big poer, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning

You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.

I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!

As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!

The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..

You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.

If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.

If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.

I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.

To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:

2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles)[/QUOTE]

Perfect, I've done a lot, already have index 12, done the crank seal and have a new csf radiator
Correct me if I'm ending but a mt doesn't have transmission solenoids correct. And my inlets will be the 2in provided with the hot side intake
Cal concert gasket was replaced already. Have upgraded coils. And your saying if I were to instal the turbos today and drive away I would need a lpfp or if u do any tune after I'll need them. Is there a preferred 7.5 intercooler I know they run into figment and cutting the bumper, just want the "right" one. Not trying to cheap out with this project. And I know I need to do the carbon cleaning, after turbos, one of the 1st mods will be. Doc race manifold and cleaning.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by brandonwhit97

You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.

I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!

As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!

The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..

You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.

If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.

If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.

I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.

To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:

2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles)

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.

With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.

I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.

Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.

Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.

Baslicly the end goal is big poer, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning

You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.

I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!

As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!

The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..

You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.

If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.

If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.

I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.

To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:

2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles)[/QUOTE]

Perfect, I've done a lot, already have index 12, done the crank seal and have a new csf radiator
Correct me if I'm ending but a mt doesn't have transmission solenoids correct. And my inlets will be the 2in provided with the hot side intake
Cal concert gasket was replaced already. Have upgraded coils. And your saying if I were to instal the turbos today and drive away I would need a lpfp or if u do any tune after I'll need them. Is there a preferred 7.5 intercooler I know they run into figment and cutting the bumper, just want the "right" one. Not trying to cheap out with this project. And I know I need to do the carbon cleaning, after turbos, one of the 1st mods will be. Doc race manifold and cleaning.[/QUOTE]
W/ out a tune, I don't think you'd need a stage 2 pump on upgraded turbos, as long as your OEM pump is healthy. In other words, it sits at 72 psi at idol & never dips below 60psi at WOT.

I forgot to mention the HPFP. There's an upgrade for that, which you will need if you plan on hitting 600hp w/ out any hiccups

[brandonwhit97]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.

I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!

As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!

The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..

You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.

If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.

If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.

I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.

To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:

2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles)

Perfect, I've done a lot, already have index 12, done the crank seal and have a new csf radiator
Correct me if I'm ending but a mt doesn't have transmission solenoids correct. And my inlets will be the 2in provided with the hot side intake
Cal concert gasket was replaced already. Have upgraded coils. And your saying if I were to instal the turbos today and drive away I would need a lpfp or if u do any tune after I'll need them. Is there a preferred 7.5 intercooler I know they run into figment and cutting the bumper, just want the "right" one. Not trying to cheap out with this project. And I know I need to do the carbon cleaning, after turbos, one of the 1st mods will be. Doc race manifold and cleaning.[/QUOTE]
W/ out a tune, I don't think you'd need a stage 2 pump on upgraded turbos, as long as your OEM pump is healthy. In other words, it sits at 72 psi at idol & never dips below 60psi at WOT.

I forgot to mention the HPFP. There's an upgrade for that, which you will need if you plan on hitting 600hp w/ out any hiccups[/QUOTE]
Additionally, someone said pures are reliable, however cost to much, I makes out the mmp, gc 2.0, rb, and pure. They are all within $200 ecs per the pure which is 1000 abuse average, however includes a 600 core return charge. Making it 400 more. Is that the cost you spoke of or am I missing something. (That doesn't include the $300 under the table fee for rb)

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by brandonwhit97

Perfect, I've done a lot, already have index 12, done the crank seal and have a new csf radiator
Correct me if I'm ending but a mt doesn't have transmission solenoids correct. And my inlets will be the 2in provided with the hot side intake
Cal concert gasket was replaced already. Have upgraded coils. And your saying if I were to instal the turbos today and drive away I would need a lpfp or if u do any tune after I'll need them. Is there a preferred 7.5 intercooler I know they run into figment and cutting the bumper, just want the "right" one. Not trying to cheap out with this project. And I know I need to do the carbon cleaning, after turbos, one of the 1st mods will be. Doc race manifold and cleaning.

W/ out a tune, I don't think you'd need a stage 2 pump on upgraded turbos, as long as your OEM pump is healthy. In other words, it sits at 72 psi at idol & never dips below 60psi at WOT.

I forgot to mention the HPFP. There's an upgrade for that, which you will need if you plan on hitting 600hp w/ out any hiccups[/QUOTE]
Additionally, someone said pures are reliable, however cost to much, I makes out the mmp, gc 2.0, rb, and pure. They are all within $200 ecs per the pure which is 1000 abuse average, however includes a 600 core return charge. Making it 400 more. Is that the cost you spoke of or am I missing something. (That doesn't include the $300 under the table fee for rb)[/QUOTE]
The RB stage 2 plus would be $1899.00 out the door, after the $300.00 core charge (or you send them in in advance - either way). This is assuming you pay him cash or check. He knocks off an additional $300.00.

If you email or call him, he gets back with you right away. He's very knowledgeable and doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.

[Rule1977]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

W/ out a tune, I don't think you'd need a stage 2 pump on upgraded turbos, as long as your OEM pump is healthy. In other words, it sits at 72 psi at idol & never dips below 60psi at WOT.

I forgot to mention the HPFP. There's an upgrade for that, which you will need if you plan on hitting 600hp w/ out any hiccups

Additionally, someone said pures are reliable, however cost to much, I makes out the mmp, gc 2.0, rb, and pure. They are all within $200 ecs per the pure which is 1000 abuse average, however includes a 600 core return charge. Making it 400 more. Is that the cost you spoke of or am I missing something. (That doesn't include the $300 under the table fee for rb)[/QUOTE]
The RB stage 2 plus would be $1899.00 out the door, after the $300.00 core charge (or you send them in in advance - either way). This is assuming you pay him cash or check. He knocks off an additional $300.00.

If you email or call him, he gets back with you right away. He's very knowledgeable and doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.[/QUOTE]






Rob is a super nice guy and you're 100% right on him giving a healthy discount for paying cash. I reached out to him about the RB Two Plus and he was super cool about everything. I'm fairly close to him so I'll be going there to pick them up when I'm ready. There is a lot to be said about customer service and his is bar none and the quality of his turbos are amazing.

[brandonwhit97]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

W/ out a tune, I don't think you'd need a stage 2 pump on upgraded turbos, as long as your OEM pump is healthy. In other words, it sits at 72 psi at idol & never dips below 60psi at WOT.

I forgot to mention the HPFP. There's an upgrade for that, which you will need if you plan on hitting 600hp w/ out any hiccups

Additionally, someone said pures are reliable, however cost to much, I makes out the mmp, gc 2.0, rb, and pure. They are all within $200 ecs per the pure which is 1000 abuse average, however includes a 600 core return charge. Making it 400 more. Is that the cost you spoke of or am I missing something. (That doesn't include the $300 under the table fee for rb)[/QUOTE]
The RB stage 2 plus would be $1899.00 out the door, after the $300.00 core charge (or you send them in in advance - either way). This is assuming you pay him cash or check. He knocks off an additional $300.00.

If you email or call him, he gets back with you right away. He's very knowledgeable and doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.[/QUOTE]

The RB stage 2 plus would be $1899.00 out the door, after the $300.00 core charge (or you send them in in advance - either way). This is assuming you pay him cash or check. He knocks off an additional $300.00.

If you email or call him, he gets back with you right away. He's very knowledgeable and doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.[/QUOTE]

These are the turbos I would be getting from rb, and there is not a core charge since they are the td04 housing, where do you get 1800?