[jehouser325xi]

Roughly 2 months ago I DIY replaced my cracked and leaking Fuel pressure regulator. The day after replacing, I went on a nice unproblematic ride and the car stalled at random in my front yard and hasn't started since. I did notice that the engine had been unusually hot to the touch after only 15 minutes of driving. Since the shutdown I have cleaned Vanos solenoids, changed oil (evidently have a leak somewhere), cleaned MAF sensor, replaced Crankshaft sensor , replaced the Fuel pump module, and replaced the fuel pump. Before replacing the fuel pump, i was unable to hear the pump when cranking but now I do. However, I do not hear the pump priming when unlocking or opening doors both before and after replacement. When I attempt to crank the car, my engine turns quickly (so the battery is fine) but doesn't even attempt to turn over. Could my new fuel pressure regulator be faulty?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jehouser325xi

Roughly 2 months ago I DIY replaced my cracked and leaking Fuel pressure regulator. The day after replacing, I went on a nice unproblematic ride and the car stalled at random in my front yard and hasn't started since... Since the shutdown I have cleaned Vanos solenoids, changed oil (evidently have a leak somewhere), cleaned MAF sensor, replaced Crankshaft sensor , replaced the Fuel pump module, and replaced the fuel pump... Could my new fuel pressure regulator be faulty?

Suggestions:
1) Spend HALF the time & money you've spent recently on component replacement, for Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) instead of throwing parts.
2) If you have a Windows Laptop, $45 gets you the needed K+DCAN Cable from BimmerGeeks, and the INPA Download is FREE from their "Downloads" Web page.
3) You MAY be simply "Out-of-Gas" (on RIGHT side of tank where Pump is located. You MAY have gas in the LEFT half of tank where the FPR is located, but a disconnected line for the "Jet Pump" that pumps fuel from LEFT side of "Saddle" to RIGHT side where Pump is Located.

If you have NO Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software that can read the "Level" in each half of the tank, simply pour a gallon of regular gas into the Fuel Filler Pipe. Turn on Ignition WITHOUT pressing brake/clutch to Activate Starter. Cycle Ignition that way several time and listen for Pump operation. Note any change in SOUND of pump. Now try to start and see if you even get a "Sputter" or attempt to fire.

N52 Models have a Schrader Valve in the Fuel Rail (remove Engine/Coil Cover) to which a mechanical pressure gauge can be attached. Rail Pressure should be ~ 72 PSIG.

Odds are quite high that you have a loose/disconnected fuel line INSIDE the tank between the Pump on Right, and FPR on Left.

Please let us know what you find,
George