[Mantraxalos]

When you do the fill the rest of the trans with fluid, make sure to do it at the proper temp range, which I don't remember. If it's too cold or too hot, it won't take the proper amount of fluid.

[nsjames]

40C IIRC.

[Mantraxalos]

Sounds about right. Was the upper about 60 or 70C?

Last summer we changed it on a friend's N52 Z4 with the ZF auto. We followed this video meticulously.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRrgmfM8VlQ

However it was on jack stands with my friend watching the temp in INPA and me pumping from underneath. From what I remember, with it running it took an extra two to three quarts.

I've used this same procedure with GM trannies on E46s with good results, adjusting only the temp ranges.

[redwolf1017]

Originally Posted by nsjames

40C IIRC.

Originally Posted by Mantraxalos

Sounds about right. Was the upper about 60 or 70C?

Last summer we changed it on a friend's N52 Z4 with the ZF auto. We followed this video meticulously.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRrgmfM8VlQ

However it was on jack stands with my friend watching the temp in INPA and me pumping from underneath. From what I remember, with it running it took an extra two to three quarts.

I've used this same procedure with GM trannies on E46s with good results, adjusting only the temp ranges.

Thanks! Yeah there was a sticker on the pan that said 30-40 Celsius or 80-100 Fahrenheit.

Coolant level sensor is replaced, and I'm not longer getting any codes for the cooling system!

There was a minor setback putting the cooling fan in last night. Connectors on the wiring harness/fan did not match up. I called the salvage yard this morning and he said he pulled them off two separate vehicles. The harness came from my exact car (2008 328i) and the wiring colors were correct. The fan from this one was severely damaged (front end collision). The fan came off a 325i. From what I saw online, the fan he gave me is a 400w fan and mine is wired for the 600w 3pin fan. The salvage yard said his puller just looked at both and saw they were 3 pins so he assumed it was the same. I could probably just cut the connectors off and put quick disconnects in and it would work, but I want it to be right, so I'm on the hunt for the proper fan. He had another 600w fan but it was the 4 pin version unfortunately.

Hopefully the cats/o2 sensors will be here shortly and I can drop it off down the street at the exhaust shop.

[redwolf1017]

Dropped it off yesterday at the exhaust shop, should be done today!

The a/c wasn't working before I replaced the water pump but on the way to the exhaust shop yesterday it magically started blowing ice cold, so that was a nice surprise lol.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Originally Posted by redwolf1017

Dropped it off yesterday at the exhaust shop, should be done today!

The a/c wasn't working before I replaced the water pump but on the way to the exhaust shop yesterday it magically started blowing ice cold, so that was a nice surprise lol.

Nice reward! I haven't been following close but the fan is related to the A/C and I think yours was buggered? A guy bought the fan out of my 328 wagon and got his a/c back so he was stoked. He drove 3 hours to me to pick it up (with no fan) and we installed it in my driveway so he didn't have to pay a mechanic after driving back since it's so easy.

[e91Owner]

If you decide to change the trans filter eventually, it looks like the pan was sealed with RTV. There might be a gasket in there too, but the trans gaskets aren't as leaky as the engine gaskets and might cause an issue later down the line and might be the reason it was near empty. Something to think of of when you have a breather fixing the big ticket items.

[redwolf1017]

Originally Posted by TyroneShoelaces

Nice reward! I haven't been following close but the fan is related to the A/C and I think yours was buggered? A guy bought the fan out of my 328 wagon and got his a/c back so he was stoked. He drove 3 hours to me to pick it up (with no fan) and we installed it in my driveway so he didn't have to pay a mechanic after driving back since it's so easy.

Makes sense! When I picked it back up from the exhaust shop it was working still, but after a mile it stopped and coolant light came on, was a code for the radiator fan. I ordered the proper one and should be here Wednesday. I'm assuming it was working until it tried to turn the fan on and couldn't. Thanks again for all your help, it sounds much better now

Originally Posted by e91Owner

If you decide to change the trans filter eventually, it looks like the pan was sealed with RTV. There might be a gasket in there too, but the trans gaskets aren't as leaky as the engine gaskets and might cause an issue later down the line and might be the reason it was near empty. Something to think of of when you have a breather fixing the big ticket items.

Yeah they had resealed it with RTV when I changed it. I tried to clean up as much as I could, because no one locally had a new gasket in stock. I ordered one and am planning on swapping it out when everything else is solid and good to go.

That's kinda of where I stand at this point, waiting on the new radiator fan to come in so I can keep making headway! Brakes issue needs to come next. Also noticed that when I tried to fill it up with gas the pump kept auto shutting off. I had to fill for 5 seconds, then release the pump, then fill for 5 seconds, etc. That's definitely annoying and will be addressed too. Once I get all the mechanical/running items fixed its onto rear windows regulators and a paint job!

[Richneerd]

Originally Posted by redwolf1017

Also noticed that when I tried to fill it up with gas the pump kept auto shutting off. I had to fill for 5 seconds, then release the pump, then fill for 5 seconds, etc. That's definitely annoying and will be addressed too. Once I get all the mechanical/running items fixed its onto rear windows regulators and a paint job!

Gasoline pumps have a sensitive backpressure sensor which sense when gasoline is backing up to the fill nozzle and use that to cut off the pump.

I find it happens on some pumps. Usually the solution is one or two things - don’t squeeze the handle so hard which slows the rate of delivery flow.

Or, if I usually put the nozzle in the filler pipe and set the latch to hold it on, not quite inserting the nozzle so far ( pull it back an inch or so) will often reduce the backpressure caused by hitting a bend in the filler pipe.

This happen to me when I was at Costco, at Shell or Chevron it's fine.

[redwolf1017]

Originally Posted by Richneerd

Gasoline pumps have a sensitive backpressure sensor which sense when gasoline is backing up to the fill nozzle and use that to cut off the pump.

I find it happens on some pumps. Usually the solution is one or two things - don’t squeeze the handle so hard which slows the rate of delivery flow.

Or, if I usually put the nozzle in the filler pipe and set the latch to hold it on, not quite inserting the nozzle so far ( pull it back an inch or so) will often reduce the backpressure caused by hitting a bend in the filler pipe.

This happen to me when I was at Costco, at Shell or Chevron it's fine.

Originally Posted by Richneerd

Gasoline pumps have a sensitive backpressure sensor which sense when gasoline is backing up to the fill nozzle and use that to cut off the pump.

I find it happens on some pumps. Usually the solution is one or two things - don't squeeze the handle so hard which slows the rate of delivery flow.

Or, if I usually put the nozzle in the filler pipe and set the latch to hold it on, not quite inserting the nozzle so far ( pull it back an inch or so) will often reduce the backpressure caused by hitting a bend in the filler pipe.

This happen to me when I was at Costco, at Shell or Chevron it's fine.

Yeah but I tried filling it as slow as the pump would allow me to and it still would shut off after a couple seconds. I've used the same pump on other vehicles for a while and never had an issue, but hopefully it was just the pump

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Richneerd

Gasoline pumps have a sensitive backpressure sensor which sense when gasoline is backing up to the fill nozzle and use that to cut off the pump.

I find it happens on some pumps. Usually the solution is one or two things - don’t squeeze the handle so hard which slows the rate of delivery flow.

Or, if I usually put the nozzle in the filler pipe and set the latch to hold it on, not quite inserting the nozzle so far ( pull it back an inch or so) will often reduce the backpressure caused by hitting a bend in the filler pipe.

This happen to me when I was at Costco, at Shell or Chevron it's fine.

It's not a gas station fuel pump back pressure issue. It's the E90 running a periodic EVAP gas tank pressure test while you are refueling. Next time it happens to you, look closely at the filler port, you'll see the gasoline bubbling at the door flap. That's the EVAP pump pressurizing the fuel tank and forcing the gasoline out the port.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

It's not a gas station fuel pump back pressure issue. It's the E90 running a periodic EVAP gas tank pressure test while you are refueling. Next time it happens to you, look closely at the filler port, you'll see the gasoline bubbling at the door flap. That's the EVAP pump pressurizing the fuel tank and forcing the gasoline out the port.

This is a problem, yes? I wouldn't think it should be running that test with the car off and being fueled, but I'm not familiar with the system.

The other thing that can cause this is a bent filler neck. This can happen when you leave a gas station with the pump nozzle still connected. Ask me how I know

A few years ago I was driving south in one of my BMWs when I received word that our dog had passed. Distracted, distraught, and on the phone, I filled the car up for the return trip and drove off with the pump in the filler neck. A couple of miles down the road someone in the right lane started honking at me - that's when I noticed the gas nozzle still in the car and 12' of gas hose rooster-tailing behind me

Ironically, the honking came from someone in a Tesla

Since then, I have to "massage" the gas into the tank. I have found one local pump that is more forgiving, so I am now a regular customer.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by NGEE

This is a problem, yes? I wouldn't think it should be running that test with the car off and being fueled, but I'm not familiar with the system.

The other thing that can cause this is a bent filler neck. This can happen when you leave a gas station with the pump nozzle still connected. Ask me how I know

A few years ago I was driving south in one of my BMWs when I received word that our dog had passed. Distracted, distraught, and on the phone, I filled the car up for the return trip and drove off with the pump in the filler neck. A couple of miles down the road someone in the right lane started honking at me - that's when I noticed the gas nozzle still in the car and 12' of gas hose rooster-tailing behind me

Ironically, the honking came from someone in a Tesla

Since then, I have to "massage" the gas into the tank. I have found one local pump that is more forgiving, so I am now a regular customer.

Considering I used to fill up my E90 every two days when it was my only DD, I've had this phenomenon happen at least 30 times now; just yesterday as a matter of fact. I figure the ECU doesn't know I'm at the gas station, LOL. I fill up pretty much at the same gas stations and pumps every time and it is an inconsistent occurrence. I fill up at either the same local Shell station, or the same Exxon at the same pumps. The Shell changed out its pumps in 2019, and it happened on occasion both pre and post gas pump swap. This is experience from filling up at either of those two stations for the past 14 years.

It's the only BMW of the four I have that does it.

[redwolf1017]

So I just tried the second radiator fan I've ordered an it didn't fit, it seems like I can't find the correct fan.

This is the connector on my vehicle:



3 pin connector. Every 3 pin connector fan I find for my vehicle has a plug that looks like this:




There's a 4 pin fan that my connector fits in, but it doesn't work. The seller said it would work as long as it plugged in, but that wasn't the case. I had to return it.



Does anyone have any ideas where I could find the correct one?

[nsjames]

have you put your vin in at realoem and gotten the part number?

[redwolf1017]

Originally Posted by nsjames

have you put your vin in at realoem and gotten the part number?

Sorry, yes, I forgot to mention that.

realoem shows two different part numbers.



When I search the part numbers the 400w fan part number shows a three prong connector, but it shows the one with three large blades instead of the two large and one small like my connector has.

The 600w fan shows a 4 pin connector that plugs into my connector but doesn't work.

I guess its possible I have the wrong connector on my vehicle. The connector was pulled off the exact same model and year at the junkyard. Even had the N52 engine.

[charlie_m]

The pic of the connector on your vehicle is for a 600 Watt fan, the other one is for a 400 watt fan. Evidently both were used, but I'm not sure what options dictated the larger fan.

Another check is that F92 would be a 50 amp fuse for the 400 watt fan, or a 60 amp fuse for the 600 watt fan

Attached are PDF screen shot files from ISTA:
* wiring diagram of cooling circuit
* close-up of 600 Watt connector
* close-up of 400 watt connector

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by redwolf1017

... The 600w fan shows a 4 pin connector that plugs into my connector but doesn't work.

The 600W Fan has a 4-pin Connector, as shown in attached Connector View of E-Fan Connector X1797.
However, only 3 of the four openings in connector have a metal socket, #3 opening NOT being used.
The LARGE sockets, #1 & #2, are for Ground and Relay-switched B+, as shown in attached wiring diagram.

Your issue MAY be that the Black/Blue wire, which is the "Speed Signal", PWM signal or similar, may NOT be intact.
That is the SMALL wire that SHOULD be attached to socket #4 of the X1797 Connector. That wire SHOULD have
SOME voltage (probably ~ 5V, but NOT sure) when Ignition is ON, and should increase to a higher voltage, say 7V,
when A/C compressor is activated and fan should run at some speed. The higher the voltage value, the FASTER
the Fan should run.

Fan will NOT run if that small Speed Signal wire does NOT have increased voltage with A/C ON,
at least 10 to 20 seconds after compressor ON. If "Mr. Issues" messed up the A/C as well, then you would have to wait
for ECTS Temp signal to get to 90C range with engine at stationary idle before Speed Signal voltage changes.


Suffice it to say if you have NO voltage in reference to chassis ground at Black/Blue wire, you need to check
connectivity in that wire, back to its other end at Pin#8 of DME Connector 60001, see Location/View Diagrams.
George