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      02-21-2021, 09:05 AM   #1
Willygbr66
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E92 Rear Shocks

Hi,

Well when it rains it pours. After having a walnut blast last week and then being told I have a leaking injector, today I took my car for a drive and I definitely believe my rear right shock absorber is now toast. Heard a strange sound at rear of car and on stopping then checking the rear end seems very “bouncy” when pushing down on the boot.

Questions are do I replace both shocks, which many suggest? How difficult a job is it for me personally to do and finally any recommendations on what brand replacements I should get along with do I also get all the mounts etc.

As always suggestions/advice will be much appreciated.
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      02-21-2021, 09:42 AM   #2
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I would replace both, never just one.

Sachs are OEM dampers, Bilstein are better quality and often much cheaper. I used Bilstein when I changed mine. Do get new top mounts and new bump stops too they are not expensive and there's no point doing the job twice when you find you've use the old mount and then they fail a few months after fitting the new dampers.

It's an easy job on the rear, the only awkward bit is removing the rear trim in the boot to get to the top fixing point of the damper. Mines an E91 which are a compete faff to get all the interior panels out the way to get access to the top of the damper. Yours should be much easier.

Plenty of DIY's to be found with a quick Google.

Go for it, it's a fairly straight forward job.
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      02-21-2021, 11:24 AM   #3
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I did both rear shocks and springs on the driveway with basic hand tools (no impact gun etc). It's really not too bad and DIYs are plentyful for this.

I have an e92 msport, but it's my daily driver so I installed Sachs 311 410 along with Eibach pro-kit springs. The drop is very similar to stock msport.
I'd also recommend both upper and lower strut mounts too, the old ones were very worn.
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      02-21-2021, 01:56 PM   #4
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would also recommend Sachs for shock absorbers. The rears are an easy job as long as you don't have anything seized on.
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      02-22-2021, 10:40 AM   #5
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Well quick update and thank you to those who have provided advice.

I was driving on the way to work today and felt very uncomfortable continuing as the car does not feel right. Anyway turned around and worked from home. A few things I have noticed during a little spare time.

1) When taking the trunk/boot liner out and inspecting the rear top mount, drivers side, all seems absolutely fine.
2) I have noticed a lot of fluid on the strut and there is definitely a pool on the ground exactly where the rear wheel was parked over night.
3) I have not had time to take the wheel off however looking through the rim with a torch the struts piston is definitely not straight and looks out of sorts.

Again any advice/suggestions is always welcoming.
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      02-23-2021, 09:16 AM   #6
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Definitely appears to be that the shock has a leak and lost its fluid. I wouldn't drive it till you've replaced both shocks on that axle.

They are very easy to replace and not too expensive.
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      02-23-2021, 11:10 AM   #7
Willygbr66
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Firstly apologises for size of photos. I could not reduce the sizes.

Looks like I am well and truly fŁ*@(d one this one.

Inside rim of tyre bulging in various places. Clearly rear strut is leaking badly and one of the suspension arms does not look right to me.

As always any advice/suggestions will be appreciated.
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      02-23-2021, 11:35 AM   #8
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Ok so you need to spend a little money now then. Yeah the control arm does have a split in it to allow it to split open and absorb an impact but does look like it might have taken a whack. Check the other side and compare. So pair of shocks, control arm and a tyre (or pair as I always replace in pairs too lol).
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      02-23-2021, 11:43 AM   #9
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Yep I'd replace both tyres as well, and judging by the writing on the sidewall I'd say they are budget ditch finders anyway, so you'll be well shot of them anyway.
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      02-23-2021, 11:56 AM   #10
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Thank you both for your input. Planned the struts would need replacing which I reckon I can do myself. That control arm does look split however I will compare to the rear left over the next couple of days.

As for the tyre they are Vredestein‘s which have had excellent right ups and are certainly not budget as I would never go down that route.
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      02-23-2021, 01:54 PM   #11
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The tyre might just be super old and rubber has gone weak. I have heard good things about Vredstein but I personally go for higher end tyres.

The control arm looks about right to me? But like you say, worth comparing to other side.
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      02-23-2021, 04:13 PM   #12
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The tyre also may have reacted to the fluid sitting on it possibly too as it’s dropped down, or from a hit on a curb etc.

Tyres are a decent brand tbh and I’ve run Vred’s before so don’t think that’s the issue.

Best to just get it all sorted now though. But definitely first check the control arm against the opposite side as it may well be ok.
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      02-23-2021, 06:11 PM   #13
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Well I take it back! Thought they looked like budgets from the writing on them. Still probably replace both though unless the other one is virtually new. If it is, then just make sure the new one is the same so that they're not mismatched.
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      02-24-2021, 12:07 AM   #14
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with all the probs,,id say it's hit a curb or summit..strange to have 3 probs all related to one another,,do you let missus drive it ?...ive seen loads of dunlop sport runflat tyers get bulges,on 640d cars,,my car had one also before i bought it as it;s in reciepts and mot info etc
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      02-24-2021, 10:59 AM   #15
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Quick update. Not managed to get other rear wheel off however will do tomorrow. However on searching on the net it seems that control arm is as it should be and real oem also provide the schematics of the suspension parts which further clarifies.

Have also emailed a complaint to Vreds regarding the bulging in the tyre. They are quite happy to have a look at it so need to at least get it to one of their dealers and fill out the paperwork though not sure I’ll get any goodwill however no harm trying.

Going to purchase the struts plus top and bottom mounts later today. A good deal for some Sachs parts I have found.

My question is how difficult is the replacement? Considering I have replaced my valve cover gasket on my own plus OFHG. On a scale comparable to those what are people’s thoughts?

Lastly “if” this resolves the issues is it recommended to get a wheel alignment done particularly Hunter? I only ask because if the bulging has occurred through hitting a pot hole/s, which there are many in my area, I have a feeling the camber on that rear right is definitely out of line.

As also advice/suggestions are very much appreciated.
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      02-24-2021, 11:20 AM   #16
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It's a really easy job to do. You don't have to disturb and suspension arms to do the sawp so for that no geometry is needed. Easier than valve cover gasket I reckon, not that I have replaced a valve cover gasket mind.

However if you think you might have hit a pothole it would be a good idea to get tracking and camber checked.
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      02-24-2021, 11:42 AM   #17
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If you've done a VCG you'll breeze this. Just make sure you have some sturdy jack stands etc and you'll be fine. There's a few vids on youtube that go through the process.
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      02-24-2021, 05:06 PM   #18
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You’ll have no issues swapping shocks. Very straight forward to do.

I’d recommend getting geo done as best to be sure all setup correctly.
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      02-25-2021, 12:47 PM   #19
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Again thank you for the constructive comments and advice. Decided to go with Koni STR.T struts and sourced the other parts ie. mounts etc through BMW UK parts as the prices were nominal in my opinion compared to other sources.

Will do this all myself and save a few beer tokens for the future.

Keep you guys updated on how it went. Again thank you.
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      02-25-2021, 02:36 PM   #20
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Koni's are good and I've run them on loads of previous cars. Look forward to the updates and it all being sorted.
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      03-03-2021, 11:26 AM   #21
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Quick update. Managed to get the rear right strut off yesterday after work. Took about 45 minutes as I was being somewhat meticulous. Plus the pain for whatever reason was trying to get the lower rubber mount out as I am replacing all the separate parts along with the struts. Doing the other side will be a breeze now having the knowledge.

Anyway to cut a long story short my god it was totally destroyed. Clearly the top had corroded hence the clunking sound. When compressing then pulling apart there was brown watering liquid that flew out. Bump stop was disintegrated. How on earth I got that far on it is beyond me plus I only had an MOT three months ago with no advisories.

Unfortunately could not take pictures today due to it raining though will do for reference.

Last point got my Koni’s through the post. Included a small bag which clearly included a new bottom nut however can anyone tell me what this plastic part is for?

As always any comments/suggestions are much appreciated.
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      03-07-2021, 02:18 AM   #22
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Well the drama continues. Fitted rear right strut with no problem. Then began on rear left. Got strut out which again was totally dead however have now ran into a problem.

One of the E12 bolts that secure the lower rubber mount is seized. Looks like the nut on the mount itself has come away meaning everything just spins. Tried WD40 etc to no avail.

Anyone have any suggestions as to my next move? Need to replace that mount as it’s beginning to perish.
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