[Gee-Dog]

Anyone know where I can buy the BMS oil cooler valve in AU? I found one on Ebay but it's $190+ shipped, and they'll add GST to that.

[Ken Oath]

What is the driving style when the oil temperature is elevated?

What coolant temperature is observed when the oil temperature is elevated?

What oil pressure is observed?

Do you have catalytic converters installed?

If so, select the correct oil.

Previously there was an issue with the engine oil shearing which resulted in sludge, could the oil cooler be partially obstructed?

[Brule]

Originally Posted by Gee-Dog

Anyone know where I can buy the BMS oil cooler valve in AU? I found one on Ebay but it's $190+ shipped, and they'll add GST to that.

Not in Australia but nothing is.

http://www.burgertuning.com/sport_oil_cooler_valve.html

[DaveSA]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

What is the driving style when the oil temperature is elevated?

90% of the time I drive it hard. But I'm sure my "hard" compared to others is different. So lets say, my "hard" is more akin to track, than street.

In saying that I don't drive like lunatic. More so, take off from lights is hard to whatever speed limit is current. If say I'm driving through winding back roads in Adelaide hills etc, then it's pretty akin to racing.

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

What coolant temperature is observed when the oil temperature is elevated?

Before the CSF radiator was installed last week (depending on the outside ambient temp) 127 - 130C was not uncommon.

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

What oil pressure is observed?

No idea, how/where do I view that?

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

Do you have catalytic converters installed?

If so, select the correct oil.

Yes catalytic converters.

In so far as oil, I've tried just about everything that's worth trying, but no joy:

• BMW Supplied Oil - 5W - 40
• Penrite HPR5: 5W - 40
• Liqui Moly: 5W - 40
• Fuchs: 5W - 40

The last oil was M car oil, that was added but only in car for approx 900km. It was drained last week, along with a 30min idle flush.

It was replaced with Nulon 5W - 40 Racing Oil.

NB - On can states, "NOTE: Not recommended for vehicles fitted with catalytic converters."

Before give the all clear to add it, I phoned Nulon and spoke with one of their oil tech guys. (Not just some customer support rep).

He said...with the mods being added, and the high oil temps that a 335i can produce, the race oil will be fine to use." He went on the explain why that 'warning' is in place. "it's nothing more than warranty issue on new cars."

It's not a new car, it has no warranty. If a Nulon tech say's using this oil is fine, then I'm going to accept his word, given his an oil tech for Nulon.

Now that the Nulon oil has been in for 200Km or so now, along with the CSF radiator, it seems both have worked to has knocked the temp down to 121 - 123C.

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

Previously there was an issue with the engine oil shearing which resulted in sludge, could the oil cooler be partially obstructed?

Yes there was... However, the oil which sheered, was most like cheap ass K-mart oil, added by the (clueless) car yard mechanic. Adelaide BMW didn't help that matter, when they dipped their find in said oil, said it was clean, and didn't replace it. That stuff turned to black-sludge approx 3,000km later.

When that took place, the oil cooler along with hoses etc., etc., were removed, flushed and cleaned.

The oil cooler is operational, I've placed my hand down, from inside the wheel arch, and it's certainly hot.

I've spent the last few days reading more stuff about the 335i and oil temps. Seems it's a multi pronged issue.

1. The electric water pump only starts working when the coolant reaches 110C;
2. The oil temp by this stage is between 10 - 15C hotter;
3. the oil cooler is only 44 cubic inches cooling capacity;
4. Trying to cool oil that's at min 120, if not 125C+, with coolant that hot, and a below par oil cooler, is wishful thinking.

The MHD console can reprogram the EWP to run 100% all the time. Hence, that's the next step. In addition to ordering the BMS oil value.

Reiterating, the CSF radiator, Mishimoto intercooler (?), racing oil, have brought the oil temp down a good 7C. I figure the EWP operating 100% of the time, and BMS value should put oil temps at an acceptable level.

[DaveSA]

Here a pic of the Nulon racing oil (back on tin).

[assassinsbrotherhood]

Hey Dude. I can tell you a littte story. I had the same issues and searched high and low with every specialist possible and all just wanted to rebuild tranny($5000). So after alot of searching and hearing about people having trannys rebuilt and still not fixing this problem, I finally got on to the Builders from ZF trannys. It seems that when mechanics rebuild these trannys they forget to replace the INPUT SHAFT SEALS.(Oversized)This wears over time and unless you specifically look for this and put a micrometer on it ,is always overlooked.I bought the $70 part and had it put in at a specialist ($600 Labour). Never had an issue again and it drives like new. Its a known fault, but dealers only want to do the whole tranny to rake in the money and still miss this problem. I can guarantee you that this is the problem ,so get it done and dont accept a full rebuild, as its only a money grab.

[assassinsbrotherhood]

Hey Dude. I can tell you a littte story. I had the same issues and searched high and low with every specialist possible and all just wanted to rebuild tranny($5000). So after alot of searching and hearing about people having trannys rebuilt and still not fixing this problem, I finally got on to the Builders from ZF trannys. It seems that when mechanics rebuild these trannys they forget to replace the INPUT SHAFT SEALS.(Oversized)This wears over time and unless you specifically look for this and put a micrometer on it ,is always overlooked.I bought the $70 part and had it put in at a specialist ($600 Labour). Never had an issue again and it drives like new. Its a known fault, but dealers only want to do the whole tranny to rake in the money and still miss this problem. I can guarantee you that this is the problem ,so get it done and dont accept a full rebuild, as its only a money grab.

[assassinsbrotherhood]

Originally Posted by DaveSA

Hi All,

For the record, the auto trans was totally overhauled at TransTec Adelaide (17,000Km previously). That was done by the car yard. From what I could tell, it was a must-do-job. I've since confirmed that work had been completed by TransTec. At purchase car had done 136,457km.

Here's everything that's been done to date:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1453309

At approx 142K the gear shifter cr#pped itself. Could only put into drive (manual mode). Had to use paddles to change forward gears. Gear shifter control unit etc was replaced, all good from that point.

However (now at 154K km) For the last few days, when I give it the stick (taking off from lights, driving in paddle mode) 1'st goes into to 2'nd BUT it jumps into 3'rd at around 3,000rpm.

First thought was a traction control issue, but the heads-up light hasn't come on, and besides, has new tires, road is dry.

Yesterday pulled in to get petrol, put into drive and the Yellow Sprocket (gear) icon with an exclamation mark appeared in the heads-up display, and the iDrive display a message that I may not be able to use D, R etc.

Same thing happen a few hours later.

No loss off power, car didn't go into limp mode,didn't loss any ability to use gears etc.

Been searching and have found these possible causes:

• Trans oil low
• Transmission control module
• Trans oil cooler shot, needs replacement
• Solenoids
• Other than that, I'm clueless???

Any other suggestions/input is appreciated


Cheers

Dave

Hey Dude. I can tell you a littte story. I had the same issues and searched high and low with every specialist possible and all just wanted to rebuild tranny($5000). So after alot of searching and hearing about people having trannys rebuilt and still not fixing this problem, I finally got on to the Builders from ZF trannys. It seems that when mechanics rebuild these trannys they forget to replace the INPUT SHAFT SEALS.(Oversized)This wears over time and unless you specifically look for this and put a micrometer on it ,is always overlooked.I bought the $70 part and had it put in at a specialist ($600 Labour). Never had an issue again and it drives like new. Its a known fault, but dealers only want to do the whole tranny to rake in the money and still miss this problem. I can guarantee you that this is the problem ,so get it done and dont accept a full rebuild, as its only a money grab.