[Justin Daniels]

Just wondering if anyone has any information about the E9x (M3 in this case) ball joint to rod-end seat adapters pictured below. Shown in the image are a pair of uprights from an M3 WTCC. Since most of the WTCC isn't one-off, I figure there may be some information about them!

Saves me from spinning up my own on a lathe.

Cheers.

[Justin Daniels]

Anyone?
Don't make me CAD them up if I don't have to!

[feuer]

I think SPL.

[Justin Daniels]

Originally Posted by feuer

I think SPL.

Thanks, I may have to e-mail them as it doesn't look like they have much on their site unless its part of a kit with the arms. They may have been the manufacturer of those bits, under license, or something.

Also, to me it looks like their current setup is simply a Grade 8 bolt and a bunch of spacers with an adapter. This is definitely one way to do it, and gives some more adjustment, but I'd rather be able to swap arms without dumping a bunch of washers on the ground; so the idea of a solid piece that is permanently affixed to the spindle appeals to me more than their setup does.

Thanks again!

[feuer]

Why don't you post a photo from the setup (from a diferent vehicle) you desire? It will be much easier to suggest an option.

[Justin Daniels]

There is a photo in my original post that shows what I'm talking about, from a WTCC M3. Is the photo not showing on your end?

EDIT: UB Machine Inc makes them for all sorts of domestic applications.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Justin Daniels

There is a photo in my original post that shows what I'm talking about, from a WTCC M3. Is the photo not showing on your end?

EDIT: UB Machine Inc makes them for all sorts of domestic applications.

It shows but part of the setup. What about control arm?

[Justin Daniels]

Originally Posted by feuer

It shows but part of the setup. What about control arm?

The control arms are just threaded rod, or tube with welded in sleeves, and rod-ends on each end, akin to the Bimmerworld setup (attached).

EDIT: All of the kits I have found put threads in shear, which I don't think is acceptable. The photo in the original post is a permanent solution that remains bolted to the upright and does not have threads in shear.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Justin Daniels

The control arms are just threaded rod, or tube with welded in sleeves, and rod-ends on each end, akin to the Bimmerworld setup (attached).

EDIT: All of the kits I have found put threads in shear, which I don't think is acceptable. The photo in the original post is a permanent solution that remains bolted to the upright and does not have threads in shear.

This, from SPL?
http://www.splparts.com/06-13-e9x/

[Justin Daniels]

Originally Posted by feuer

This, from SPL?
http://www.splparts.com/06-13-e9x/

Very similar, but on those the socket cap screw they use holds it all together; I'd prefer the type in the first post where an assembly/adapter bolts to the upright and then only has the nut on the bottom to remove in order to remove the arm. They also have the threads on the socket cap screw in shear, if you look at the close up on this kit they definitely are in shear. Maybe I'm being too anal about the threads in shear since most of the loads these will see would be vertical loads into the strut?

I knew it was a long shot trying to find these things; so I'll probably just have a bunch made. I wonder if there would be any interest in something like that?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers!

[Justin Daniels]

After a lot of measuring I've got a good starting point (attached). Everything above the lower threads is basically locked in, I just need to sort out the bottom 20mm of the adapter. I'll be ordering some rod ends and will start testing things out soon to finalize a design.

Does anyone happen to have an adjustable arm sitting on a bench waiting for install? I'm curious what the ID of the rod ends they are using is? I'm likely going to be using Aurora XAM-10 rod ends. Any input is appreciated.

Cheers.

EDIT: just looking at it now, I realize I need a step for shims to rest on in order to locate the rod end vertically on the adapter. Oops! Glad I caught that in the design phase.

[Soravia]

What is this you guys are talking about? For steering tie rod upgrade? I've been thinking of getting it with some stiffer joint to feel more steering feedback.
I think lack of feedback in BMWs (even hydraulic like older 5 series) is all in bushings.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Soravia

What is this you guys are talking about? For steering tie rod upgrade? I've been thinking of getting it with some stiffer joint to feel more steering feedback.
I think lack of feedback in BMWs (even hydraulic like older 5 series) is all in bushings.

No, this is to change the geometry. Bump steer correction.

[Justin Daniels]

Originally Posted by Soravia

What is this you guys are talking about? For steering tie rod upgrade? I've been thinking of getting it with some stiffer joint to feel more steering feedback.
I think lack of feedback in BMWs (even hydraulic like older 5 series) is all in bushings.

This is to facilitate the use of adjustable links that use a heim joint/rod end.

Since a ball-joint is inherently pretty robust/rigid, I don't think you'd see much improvement in steering feedback from a tie-rod upgrade. The other arms, though, all use a bushing on the inboard side and there would be a marked improvement in steering feel once those are out of the equation.

The only reason one would upgrade to an adjustable tie rod that uses a rod-end is, as mentioned by bbnks2, to correct steering geometry after lowing the ride height by being able to change the vertical placement of the outer link. If no correction is needed, the OEM tie-rod end will work just as well (and probably last longer).

[Justin Daniels]

After starting to modify the part to add the step for the rod-end to sit on, and replying to this thread earlier, I realized that the two control arm pins in the first picture have very little/no room for vertical alignment (aka fixed geometry) while the tie rod end pin has room for this vertical alignment (aka variable geometry - bump adjustment). It also appears that the tie-rod pin is not as thick as the control arm ones and suits a smaller rod-end; this is likely because tie road loads aren't as substantial as control arm loads.

With that being said, I have designed one for fixed geometry using an Aurora XAM-10 rod end (for the control arm balljoints) and one for variable geometry using an Aurora HXAM-8 rod end (for the tie-rod end balljoint).

Can anyone think of a reason (other than "more adjustment is better-er) to be able to adjust the vertical position of the fore and aft control arm pivots?

Anyway, attached are the revised drawings.