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      09-13-2014, 11:20 AM   #111
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I'll be damend. Anyway plan to change ALL 3 tranny engine and differential oils come 2 weeks from now. Did the tranny change on my 04 Chevrolet Venture w 60 k and damn can you really feel the difference night and day
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      09-13-2014, 05:55 PM   #112
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I should get this done then. Approaching 80k miles.
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      09-14-2014, 07:20 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
Got my results back this week. Strange though, my analysis says "No Problems" even though my copper levels are almost tripple of TDI's CU levels, which was noted a concern there.
Thanks for posting and adding to the knowledge base.

Not sure what the implications are, if any, to these levels. The comments on my analysis mentioned being elevated, but I'm doubtful the Cat dealer has much experience with this transmission.
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      09-14-2014, 08:27 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
Got my results back this week. Strange though, my analysis says "No Problems" even though my copper levels are almost tripple of TDI's CU levels, which was noted a concern there.
shouldn't be surprised. LG6 is up to the task for sure.
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      09-15-2014, 01:52 PM   #115
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Just bought a 2009 328i xdrive a few days ago with 141,000Kms (87,800 Miles) on the odometer. Car runs like a charm. Getting ready to do a Dexron-6 ATF fluid swap on its GA6L45R auto tranny.

Was thinking of doing a two step process, as I wait for service kit to arrive (filter, gasket, drain and fill bolts).

Please advise and comment on my approach:

First step: drop old fluid, and fill with generic dexron-6 fluid, without dropping the pan and filter. Drive a few days. Idea is to get as much old fluid out, and clean deposits out, in preparation of full tranny maintenance while the parts get here...

Second step: drop old fluid, pan, filter, clean pan and magnets, replace gasket, button everything up and fill with best quality dexron 6 fluid I can find (Pentonsin, LiquiMoly, Total, Fuchs)...
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      09-17-2014, 07:26 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Just bought a 2009 328i xdrive a few days ago with 141,000Kms (87,800 Miles) on the odometer. Car runs like a charm. Getting ready to do a Dexron-6 ATF fluid swap on its GA6L45R auto tranny.

Was thinking of doing a two step process, as I wait for service kit to arrive (filter, gasket, drain and fill bolts).

Please advise and comment on my approach:

First step: drop old fluid, and fill with generic dexron-6 fluid, without dropping the pan and filter. Drive a few days. Idea is to get as much old fluid out, and clean deposits out, in preparation of full tranny maintenance while the parts get here...

Second step: drop old fluid, pan, filter, clean pan and magnets, replace gasket, button everything up and fill with best quality dexron 6 fluid I can find (Pentonsin, LiquiMoly, Total, Fuchs)...
Some do exactly as you proposed to get as much old oil out of the tranny as possible. Personally, I think it is a waste of money and oil. The main reason for doing the oil change is IMO to get some fresh lubricant and additives into the system. The particle count should be reasonably well diluted with a normal oil change (including the filter).
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      09-17-2014, 07:36 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Thanks for posting and adding to the knowledge base.

Not sure what the implications are, if any, to these levels. The comments on my analysis mentioned being elevated, but I'm doubtful the Cat dealer has much experience with this transmission.
Agreed. Here's another interesting oil analysis. This one is from my X5 which has the same transmission 6HP26X except for a steel pan and a different output flange.
This one notes that Pb, Sn and Fe are high, even though they are pretty much the same as my 335d tranny analysis (except for the Lead). Cu was not noted elevated again.
The transmission has 91kmiles and some trailoring on it.
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      11-11-2014, 03:24 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Approaching 50k and due to the modified nature of the vehicle wanted to get an idea on how the transmission is holding up.

About 2 years ago I did a fluid change, but didn't remove the transmission pan (info and fluid analysis can be found in the link below).

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=657530

This time I changed the pan as well. Attached some pics.

The fluid was darker than what came out during the first change. The 3 clear glass containers are fresh ZF oil, 2012 fluid, and then what came out yesterday. Sampled the fluid and sending it into get analyzed.

There was some "material" contained on the magnets. Not sure how normal the amount is compared to what others have seen.

Also snapped a shot of the old and new pans side by side, and the transmission guts seen when the pan is removed.

Even though BMW calls the transmission fluid "lifetime" ... ZF says otherwise.

http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...hselkit_EN.pdf

Depending on the driving style, ZF therefore recommends a transmission oil change every 80000 to 120000 km, or after 8 years at the latest.


The above change procedure was helpful. There's also several online links that are helpful as well. This is an example:

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-...ics-faq-30991/
Hey op how come the last fluid color is darker than the previous one considering almost the same amount of miles on both ?
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      11-11-2014, 03:26 PM   #119
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I wish i could been there for my change. I used Amsoil tranny fluid
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      11-11-2014, 03:35 PM   #120
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Im gonna use this this time

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/engine-and-transmission-flush/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d View Post
I wish i could been there for my change. I used Amsoil tranny fluid
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      11-11-2014, 03:38 PM   #121
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Damn it i forgot about this one i used when i converted from dino oil to Amsoil. I thought it wouldn't be needed on our diesels since they were running synthetic oil anyway. Gracias my friend
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      11-11-2014, 04:38 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
Hey op how come the last fluid color is darker than the previous one considering almost the same amount of miles on both ?
Not sure why. Since not all the fluid gets changed the way I'm doing it, and because the first part of the transmissions life was with lower hp/torque and less track time ... that might be part of it. But that's speculation on my part.
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      11-12-2014, 09:38 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
Not sure why. Since not all the fluid gets changed the way I'm doing it, and because the first part of the transmissions life was with lower hp/torque and less track time ... that might be part of it. But that's speculation on my part.
yup .. what tune you got on there
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      11-12-2014, 03:07 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
yup .. what tune you got on there
Ecotune remap plus some other stuff...
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      11-14-2014, 12:40 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
I'd advise against using a detergent based flush on the tranny. There was a lot of slush accumulated on the bottom of the pan and on the magnets. You really don't want that back in the system.
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      11-14-2014, 02:57 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
I'd advise against using a detergent based flush on the tranny. There was a lot of slush accumulated on the bottom of the pan and on the magnets. You really don't want that back in the system.
thats a good point ... but I'm changing the pan too
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      12-08-2014, 03:58 PM   #127
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Spare parts Catalog

Found this in another forum.

You might want to add this to the first post to keep all of the documents together.

6HP26-28_Catalog.pdf
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      12-18-2014, 04:24 PM   #128
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I just got the transmission fluid drained and refilled today, but the independent shop that did it had 3 full bottles left over when it was done. I bought the "kit" the thectsc.com website with 6 bottles of the ZF fluid, pan filter, etc. Could this be right?

On the ride home the transmission was shifting abruptly, practically lurching on some up-shifts. At one point when starting off from a stop (after I got off the highway), it went normally, shifted up, then immediately downshifted into what seemed like first gear and revved all the way up before up-shifting again an acting normal.

Is there a quick an easy way for me to check the ATF level, or do I need to get underneath the car, remove the underpan and fill bolt and check from there?

Thanks.
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      12-18-2014, 11:11 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCT335d View Post
I just got the transmission fluid drained and refilled today, but the independent shop that did it had 3 full bottles left over when it was done. I bought the "kit" the thectsc.com website with 6 bottles of the ZF fluid, pan filter, etc. Could this be right?

On the ride home the transmission was shifting abruptly, practically lurching on some up-shifts. At one point when starting off from a stop (after I got off the highway), it went normally, shifted up, then immediately downshifted into what seemed like first gear and revved all the way up before up-shifting again an acting normal.

Is there a quick an easy way for me to check the ATF level, or do I need to get underneath the car, remove the underpan and fill bolt and check from there?

Thanks.

Doesnt sound right. I bought same kit. Only had 1 bottle left over. There is also a programming component for tranny work also. How many miles did you do it at? First time?
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      12-18-2014, 11:15 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdiaz View Post
Doesnt sound right. I bought same kit. Only had 1 bottle left over. There is also a programming component for tranny work also. How many miles did you do it at? First time?
2011 335d, 63k miles. This is the first time the transmission has been serviced. What is the programming component that you speak of?

Thanks.
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      12-19-2014, 12:38 AM   #131
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You need to reset the transmission adaptations.
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      12-19-2014, 04:16 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
You need to reset the transmission adaptations.
Is that something that needs to be done through the obd2 port with a programmer or do you mean just using this method:

1. foot off brake, press start button
2. hold down throttle pedal for 30 seconds
3. with foot still on throttle, press start button to turn off ignition
4. wait 3 minutes
5. start car

I have done the above 5 steps a couple of times with no difference.

Thanks.
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