[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by NWCT335d

I just got the transmission fluid drained and refilled today, but the independent shop that did it had 3 full bottles left over when it was done. I bought the "kit" the thectsc.com website with 6 bottles of the ZF fluid, pan filter, etc. Could this be right?

On the ride home the transmission was shifting abruptly, practically lurching on some up-shifts. At one point when starting off from a stop (after I got off the highway), it went normally, shifted up, then immediately downshifted into what seemed like first gear and revved all the way up before up-shifting again an acting normal.

Is there a quick an easy way for me to check the ATF level, or do I need to get underneath the car, remove the underpan and fill bolt and check from there?

Thanks.

That's definitely not right. I bet they forgot to do the "second step" of filling the oil. It's gotta be done while the car is running.
You want to bring that car back as soon as possible. Print out the manual and ask if they have read it.

[NWCT335d]

They said that the drained, filled, turned the car on and let it come up to temp and filled again. Looking at the pdf in this thread from ZF, that is not 100% the correct procedure. I am going back in this morning and sent them the pdf so that I can go over it with them. Hoping to get it resolved and that the 70 miles put on the car by the time I get back there didn't do any damage.

Any other thoughts on what is required for the transmission adaptation reset? If it just the manual method using the throttle pedal as I posted earlier, then that has already been done.

Thanks.

[GreekboyD]

Originally Posted by NWCT335d

They said that the drained, filled, turned the car on and let it come up to temp and filled again. Looking at the pdf in this thread from ZF, that is not 100% the correct procedure. I am going back in this morning and sent them the pdf so that I can go over it with them. Hoping to get it resolved and that the 70 miles put on the car by the time I get back there didn't do any damage.

Any other thoughts on what is required for the transmission adaptation reset? If it just the manual method using the throttle pedal as I posted earlier, then that has already been done.

Thanks.

I think it is the adaptation aspect that is causing you the issue. The throttle pedal method won't cure this. It must be done through the OBD.

[NWCT335d]

Everything is seemingly back to normal now. They needed to add 2 more bottles of ZF LG6 to fill it up. I will check with them on the transmission adaptation reset component.

Thanks.

[Hoooper]

wow, that oughta take 150k miles off the life of the trans

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by NWCT335d

Everything is seemingly back to normal now. They needed to add 2 more bottles of ZF LG6 to fill it up. I will check with them on the transmission adaptation reset component.

Thanks.

Kind of justifies why I like to do these jobs myself, even though an auto tranny fluid/filter/gasket replacement it is a messy and lenghty job. It is no fun having warm fluid running down your forearms when filling the pan with the car running, waiting for the right fluid temperature to be reached ... ;-)

All my wife's fault. Keeps lusting over used Euro cars with automatic trannies. I went through this for her 2002 BMW 330xi, then her 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, and just recently her 2009 BMW 328i xdrive.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

wow, that oughta take 150k miles off the life of the trans

@NWCT335d:
I second Hoooper on this. You should try reaching an agreement with the shop that if your tranny goes out in the next 50-100k miles they need to chip in.
I'm not a tranny expert but that can't be good driving with too low oil.

If you're anywhere close to MI, I can help you with resetting the adaptions. PM me if interested.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

@NWCT335d:
I second Hoooper on this. You should try reaching an agreement with the shop that if your tranny goes out in the next 50-100k miles they need to chip in.
I'm not a tranny expert but that can't be good driving with too low oil.

If you're anywhere close to MI, I can help you with resetting the adaptions. PM me if interested.

I can tell you that in the GM 4L60e (which takes even more fluid on a change than our trans) being as little as a quart low can cause line pressure fluctuations. A quart and a half can cause seriously inconsistent line pressures. Questionable line pressure is probably the quickest way to a rebuild behind of course giving it more power than the parts can handle

[dzlmoose]

GreekboyD

Tranny Party.

[remlemasi]

Just did the pan/filter and fluid change last night. Spilt a LOT of fluid -___- but thankfully did not run out of fluid and was still able to get a drip at >40C.

Anyway, I'm looking into the transmission adaptation now and have a few questions:
1. BavTech tool is the only way right?
2. Is the procedure where you "accelerate slowly then decelerate with no brake pedal then repeat 20 times" only done AFTER the BavTech tool reset? Or is it a substitute for the BavTech tool reset?
3. Is it really necessary to do the reset (either 1 or 2 above or both)?
4. If I don't do the reset, will the transmission adapt by itself after a few hundred miles?
5. Do I need to take care to not stress the transmission until adaptation (reset or just waiting few hundred miles) is complete?

A lot of questions, but I hope this will help others a will similar questions.

BTW, car is so smooth again!

[BB_cuda]

Yes Remlemasi, those are good questions. I'm very close to ordering the supplies for fluid change. So, I'm all ears for answers on this.

How many miles were you at when you did the transmission fluid service? I'm at 36,000 miles and generally like to do mine every 35,000 to 40,000 miles.

Anyone that has done this, what tool did you use to pump fluid up into side filler port?

[Hoooper]

The transmission should adapt over time, but it certainly would be best if you could just reset it now. Bavtech is not the only way, there are also dealer tools of course. Not sure if torque or bmwhat can reset them.

I just used a standard hand pump. Takes a bit of pumping, but the one I have can move a lot of fluid per pump. Similar to this style pump that is at all the parts stores.

[m9bm]

Is this worth doing if I have the 100k warranty?

[remlemasi]

I did my flush at 71,500 miles (bought the kit at 60k, but haven't had time...)

The ZF recommendation is 80,000 km to 120,000 km, which is 50k miles to 75 k miles. That made me feel a little better about doing it so late, but I wish I had done it at 60k miles. In any case, 45k miles were put on in the first two years from the previous owner, so I'm guessing/hoping it was primarily low-stress highway miles... :

I used the OTC pump. It comes with a big tube and a small tube. Small tube intended as inlet and large tube intended as the outlet. The issue is the large tube didn't fit in the filler hole so I had to swap them. After swapping them. The hand force to pump was so great that I overpowered it several times and the small tube came loose due to the pressure, spraying fluid everywhere. Small tube was designed to take the pressure being used as an outlet. I eventually found a way to prevent it from coming loose, but by then I had fluid everywhere...

@m9bm, it's worth it if you want smoother shifting back, plan to keep it past 100k, or want to be nice to the future owner

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by m9bm

Is this worth doing if I have the 100k warranty?

yes if youre going to keep it past 100k. I bet without any changes it will still make 100k easily, but I would think if youre keeping it past that, you want it to be in the best shape it reasonably can once you hit that number.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

The transmission should adapt over time, but it certainly would be best if you could just reset it now. Bavtech is not the only way, there are also dealer tools of course. Not sure if torque or bmwhat can reset them.

I just used a standard hand pump. Takes a bit of pumping, but the one I have can move a lot of fluid per pump. Similar to this style pump that is at all the parts stores.

Thanks Hooper, I have one of these.

Off topic: I used it to pump gasoline out of Mustang's tank. I tried to suck DEF out of the active and passive tanks with it but it didn't pull anything out. I need to test it with a bucket of water to make sure it is still pulling the way it should.

[Mik325tds]

I used this little pump:
MERCURY MARINE Quicksilver Gear Lube Pump
Model # 1662527 | Mfg # 802891Q2
$12.99

Works very well, too and isn't very expensive.

[remlemasi]

Can anyone comment on the cumbersome adaptation acceleration /deceleration procedure (question 2 in my previous post) Goes something like this: https://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/vie...6&f=5&t=157006

Is this required after a BavTech tool reset to complete the new adaptation?

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by remlemasi

Can anyone comment on the cumbersome adaptation acceleration /deceleration procedure (question 2 in my previous post) Goes something like this: https://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/vie...6&f=5&t=157006

Is this required after a BavTech tool reset to complete the new adaptation?

I used Bav Tech to reset adaptations. And then I drove gently for awhile before slowly working up the aggressiveness. That's not to say there isn't a better way ...

[m9bm]

How much should i expect to pay an independent for this?
Thanks for all the help.

[rogerdiaz]

Originally Posted by m9bm

How much should i expect to pay an independent for this?
Thanks for all the help.

$232.50 Cary, NC. I supplied my pan and oil kit. I'm thinking dealer is 3x-4x.

[WreckerX5d]

I was charged 1.5 hours of labor, and I brought my own parts.