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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Bluetooth Retrofit: E90 335i with iDrive, Phone prep, Voice control, and USB
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12-03-2012, 01:30 PM | #111 |
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I am happy to report that the retrofit is done and was a success!
With the help of everyone on here and Alex I now have fully functioning OEM bluetooth and voice command. Running the mic wire from the MULF to the FZD only took about 2 hours with both of us working on it. Without the help and having to figure it all out on my own as I went probably would have taken me about 5 or 6 hours. One strange thing has happened and that is that I was using the BT perfectly, stopped off to run an errand, cam back to my car after about 30 mins, and the car wouldn't pair with my phone, and nothing I could do would make it pair. Checking both the phone and the car, turning the phone off and on, turning off the ignition…etc. So I let the car sleep for 20 or so minutes and reset then tried again and it was all fine again. I guess it may just do this from time to time and i probably shouldn't worry about it, but has anyone else had this? iDrive iPhone 4 2009 e90 335i |
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12-03-2012, 05:23 PM | #112 |
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I've definitely never had that issue, my phone always connects sooner after starting the car than I can notice. I guess just assume it probably won't happen again.
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01-01-2013, 07:48 PM | #113 |
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hey folks, would you mind helping me?
USA 2007 328i with usb/ipod and the phone prep. Below is the photo of my MULF2 High and the cable bundles would you all mind telling me what I probably need? and what steps I should take? I'm hoping I just need to re-arrange the microphone cables in the trunk and get the antenna connector for the drivers (left side) wheel well. |
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01-01-2013, 07:51 PM | #114 | |
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I have an iPhone 5 with iOS 6 and I noticed the car wasn't pairing with my phone for a couple of days, but when my wife stepped in with her iPhone 4 (also iOS6), it would immediately hook up with her phone just fine. After deleting my phone from the car, and forgetting the car from the phone, I was able to pair again and have not had a problem since. |
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01-01-2013, 08:08 PM | #115 | ||
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From your other post:
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In the original post for this thread, I have extensively documented every aspect of every step and pointed out exactly what parts are needed to complete the retrofit, for cars with iDrive. Refer to the third post in this thread, where snoozee outlines the coding he did for a non-iDrive car. I suggest looking at his post history and reading to find out if he was successful and what he did, maybe PM him once you've exhausted all available resources. Good luck! |
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01-01-2013, 08:58 PM | #116 | |
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01-01-2013, 09:00 PM | #117 | |
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01-02-2013, 07:36 AM | #118 |
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01-24-2013, 10:12 AM | #119 |
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Semi-Newbie Question here.
I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but to my defense I have been watching/reading these bluetooth retrofit guides for the last two years and finally am ready to pull the trigger. My question is if all I need is the bluetooth antenna to activate the bluetooth in my car? I have idrive and voice command but no usb in center console. I plan on pulling up trunk floor tonight to see if I have the MULF and what kind of connectors. THANKS IN ADVANCE. These forums are amazing! |
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01-24-2013, 10:40 AM | #120 | |
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There is no MULF in your car. |
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01-31-2013, 08:31 PM | #121 | |
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The shop is at a loss as to what to do next |
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01-31-2013, 08:32 PM | #122 | |
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02-01-2013, 04:06 PM | #123 |
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Hey guys, So i was part of this thread early on but had a lot going on so never got to the retrofit. I was also a little overwhelmed about coding but i didn't realize it till a week ago that ICS Performance is right down the street from where i live, and they can do the coding. Looks like all i need to do at this point is plug in the Antenna, rewire the mic from FMZ to MULF, and get it coded.
So hears my question. Ive read through the thread since my last post and never really found an answer. I'm probably just not thinking write because I'm shot, but a lot of people said the Mic in the FMZ is wired to the back of the radio or CCC something (my car two has the Yellow and black behind the glove box but they cant be found by the MULF). if that's the case and you are running wires from the MULF to the Mic, are you running the two wires up and just connecting them into the same spot as the existing yellow and black wire? I have been confusing myself because i know there was a lot of talk early on about switching pins. I may be over analyzing this and im just trying to confirm its as simple as running two wires and connecting them to the existing wires of the MIC in the FMZ back to the MULF. |
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02-01-2013, 07:50 PM | #124 | |
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02-01-2013, 08:22 PM | #125 | |
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Anyway, I'd spring for shielded twisted pair wire anyway. It's an extra $20 on top of what you'd spend on cheap crap 22 gauge speaker wire from radioshack, and since it's on the mic line, the (substantial) added noise rejection will be noticed by the other end of your call, not you. Do them a favor This is what I purchased. If the auction URL changes, it's shielded twisted pair wire, 25ft, from a seller named navships. Super high quality, really great stuff. Glad I have 14' left over after doing the install for myself and gjimmy. And for what it's worth, I never get complaints about audio quality on calls from the car http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-feet-24-A...80503289894%26 |
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02-02-2013, 09:22 PM | #126 | |
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02-03-2013, 01:04 AM | #127 |
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Yes, totally correct. I meant the interesting part is that they included three pins on the mic unnecessarily, where they could have simply used two since the shielding isn't connected on that end.
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02-03-2013, 03:26 AM | #128 | |
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i just found out that the PCB for the master windows switch pack for driver side is the same for folding and non-folding are exactly the same. just that the non-folding one is missing a button with a different trim piece. |
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02-03-2013, 04:01 PM | #129 | |
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02-06-2013, 01:23 PM | #130 |
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good call on the shielded wire alexwhittemore. I'm going to order it now, i have speaker wire at home but know how annoying interference can be from my car audio days.
I hope to have everything working by the end of the month. All i have to do is plug in the BTA, and run the sheilded cable from the MULF to the FMZ. Then im going to drop the car off at ICS Performance down the street and have them code it. I called them and asked them how much but he told me he had to wait and see how everything is wired. I found that kind of weird because all i need is $664 added to the VO, correct? |
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02-06-2013, 01:30 PM | #131 |
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Now that i think about it. Would a set of stereo RCA wires work. i could cut the connectors off of the end. RCA's are usually shielded and basically serve the same purpose for what we are trying to accomplish. I ask because i have boxes of them at home and this could be a much cheaper alternative for those that have them laying around.
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02-06-2013, 01:45 PM | #132 | |
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Presuming you DO have coax RCAs (and not simply twisted ones), you'll want to use the core from cable 1 as Mic+, the core from cable 2 as Mic-, then you'll want to solder the shields from both cables together and connect that to pin 23 on the MULF side (pretty sure it's 23, anyway, read one of the other guide posts floating around, maybe even in this thread, don't remember where I am). That will probably have performance pretty similar to using the normal shielded twisted wire I linked, although I think it theoretically doesn't have as high a noise rejection performance. The other problem is impedance matching, which could matter over a long run like this, but at such low (audio) frequencies, I'd be surprised if it made a difference. Plus, it's not like I measured or did any matching on the mic or wire I picked, so whatever. |
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