[psmitty95]

Ok so I tried turning up the gain a bit to the 9'oclock mark (where I have the sub gain set) and it made no difference in the buzzing. I tried to get a video capturing it which is below. Also I decided to look at my rear speakers and I have tweeters. I was under the impression that I wouldn't have tweeters but I guess this is normal?

Edit: Buzzing noise can be heard at :03,:07,:10,:14

[bmw325i]

You should try raising your lp filter and hpf's to around 180-200hz. Also try turning down the bass on the headunit to flat and turn up the gain on the underseats a little bit instead.

[nimo]

Could you try swapping the Front and Rear RCAs inputs.

[psmitty95]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

You should try raising your lp filter and hpf's to around 180-200hz. Also try turning down the bass on the headunit to flat and turn up the gain on the underseats a little bit instead.

Ok I have my filters at 135 for front and rear and 174 for underseat. Tomorrow I can try making all 200 since I saw someone recommend that setup once before. Another question... I pulled codes from my JB4 today and noticed a "2DED Power management, standby current control" code. Did I do something wrong? I left the trunk open for a few minutes to see if the light on the amp would shut off and it did so i'm confused why I might be getting this code?

Originally Posted by nimo

Could you try swapping the Front and Rear RCAs inputs.

Yea I will try that tomorrow after I try the 200. Won't that not make a difference though since I have my front and rear settings on the amp set the same?

[Rambo]

You can rule out if the noise is coming from the source or bad RCA connectors by swapping RCA inputs.

[psmitty95]

Ok got an update for you guys. So today I went out and changed the freq. so all is at 200 and the good news is the buzzing seems to have gone away almost entirely if not completely. I only gave it a quick listen but sounds good to me so far. I'm going to go out in a bit and listen to a few more songs and for longer. Anyways below is a pic of how my amp is currently setup. This will be fine to run on the stock speakers at least for a little while, right?



Also @bmw325i I owe you big time after all the help you've given me in here and the wheel section for my custom wheels. You're the man

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by psmitty95

Ok got an update for you guys. So today I went out and changed the freq. so all is at 200 and the good news is the buzzing seems to have gone away almost entirely if not completely. I only gave it a quick listen but sounds good to me so far. I'm going to go out in a bit and listen to a few more songs and for longer. Anyways below is a pic of how my amp is currently setup. This will be fine to run on the stock speakers at least for a little while, right?



Also @bmw325i I owe you big time after all the help you've given me in here and the wheel section for my custom wheels. You're the man

No problem, glad you got the buzzing figured out.

[BOTUS]

Hi psmitty95,

on the picture of your amp I can't make out the setting for the filters

Ch 1&2 ?
Ch 2&4 mid position HP
Ch 5&6 right LP

can you point me in the right direction please

[ctuna]

expand the picture and think logically .
Its high pass by both tests. Its going to the fronts after all.

[psmitty95]

Originally Posted by BOTUS

Hi psmitty95,

on the picture of your amp I can't make out the setting for the filters

Ch 1&2 ?
Ch 2&4 mid position HP
Ch 5&6 right LP

can you point me in the right direction please

As Ctuna said it's HP for both Ch1-4 and LP for 5-6 since that is the underseat woofers. I have everything set at 200 right now for the filter. Gain is 0 for fronts and rears and 9 o'clock for sub.



Ok guys so as a few of you mentioned the way I ran the power wire was iffy. Today I got trim removal tools and took off the gray part on the back of the bumper and ran it with that. Although now the piece of floor that lifts up and out is pretty tight, i much prefer the wire ran like this than before. The clips that hold on this gray piece are in extremely tight. I couldn't get them out with just a flathead which is why I bought trim removal tools. Even then it broke one of my tools . Anyways here's pics. Let me know if this is fine or if there are still issues like the fact that the gray piece is now putting a good amount of pressure on the wire

[ctuna]

Those fasteners are real cheap in both ways.
They break and don't cost much.
Don't worry to much about breaking them in general they are
around a buck or less each.

I have the part no and prices listed in my install procedure
for the vp kit for most of the fastners.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1329017429

I think I remember drilling one out .
Realoem also lists part no and prices.

If you ever get in a rear end accident running the power
wires right against the rear of the trunk could cause problems I think.

[psmitty95]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Those fasteners are real cheap in both ways.
They break and don't cost much.
Don't worry to much about breaking them in general they are
around a buck or less each.

I have the part no and prices listed in my install procedure
for the vp kit for most of the fastners.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1329017429

I think I remember drilling one out .
Realoem also lists part no and prices.

If you ever get in a rear end accident running the power
wires right against the rear of the trunk could cause problems I think.

So should I move them? I would love to install over the top like someone on here suggested but the wire that I was supplied with isn't that long. That means i'm stuck with this, how it was before, or buying 4 gauge (i think that's the size I have, right?) wire and soldering it in to make this one longer. What do you think the best choice is?

[ctuna]

If you want to go the long route get a new longer piece of
wire . At least I wouldn't try to solder or crimp an extension on.
If you get an eyelet you will have to get a torch or some kind of really big
heat source to solder a ringlet on(maybe a stove burner) . I don't know how Technic attaches
the factory connectors. Don't know whats out there in terms or 04
wire splices.

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by psmitty95

So should I move them? I would love to install over the top like someone on here suggested but the wire that I was supplied with isn't that long. That means i'm stuck with this, how it was before, or buying 4 gauge (i think that's the size I have, right?) wire and soldering it in to make this one longer. What do you think the best choice is?

Where you ran it now is better than before. But if it bothers you, you can always change it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-AWG-Gauge-...e56cc1&vxp=mtr

[psmitty95]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

Where you ran it now is better than before. But if it bothers you, you can always change it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-AWG-Gauge-...e56cc1&vxp=mtr

That's a good price but I really want to keep the oem style connection that I have. I think when I order the PNP connectors from technics when I do speakers i'll ask for a longer power wire. I looked at the connector he used and I couldn't see any easy way to remove the pin to put a new wire on but maybe I just didn't notice it?

Anyways I was bored tonight and got the idea from someone else on here so vinyl wrapped the trim on the back speaker grilles. I'm going to do the fronts too eventually but waiting until they are out when I replace those speakers so it's easier.

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by psmitty95

That's a good price but I really want to keep the oem style connection that I have. I think when I order the PNP connectors from technics when I do speakers i'll ask for a longer power wire. I looked at the connector he used and I couldn't see any easy way to remove the pin to put a new wire on but maybe I just didn't notice it?

Switch out the wire after the inline fuse.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

Switch out the wire after the inline fuse.

Exactly... by the way, HiFi harness have the option of adding length to the included 6ft power cable.

[psmitty95]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

Switch out the wire after the inline fuse.

Oh that would make sense. My fault...

Originally Posted by Technic

Exactly... by the way, HiFi harness have the option of adding length to the included 6ft power cable.

Oh I had no idea that's my bad. Do you sell wiring harnesses to make speaker/sub installs PNP? I know I can just get them from the dealer but I thought I read that you use thicker wire or something like that?

[BOTUS]

So I have just fitted this amp to my HiFi system in the 335d.

Initial impression Oh dear, its worse!!!

Completely thrown by the garbage info about the stock speaker set up. I suggest the biggest issue with the sound system is the speakers everyone is calling Subs. They are defiantly not Subs[/B].

In home HiFi terms Sub's work at 80hz and lower. With normal speakers coping well until this sort of frequency then struggling. So thinking the stock set up would be fairly normal. I set mine with S at LP 80 and F + R at HP 80. Setting the filters up like this, the system was a muddy horrible mess that's worse than the stock setup (I know that sounds impossible).

In a very confused state wondering if this amp is just garbage. I was trying to get my head around why anyone would have the filters set as high as earlier suggested in this post. Still thinking the 200 all round setting was still a very strange way to go about things, I went to 120 all round and its still a horrendous disaster.

Then I searched other forum's for a set up and saw this

F HP 210 min sens
R HP 235 min sens
S LP 250 9 o'clock sens


"Subs" also reco in post below to be set this HIGH
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=692688

So I gave it a go ... overall much more normal and just about acceptable.
Much better than BMW manage, if you hadn't heard anything better you might even like it. Still just about ZERO Bass though... bringing up the sensitivity past 9 o'clock just brings in a muddy undefined mess.

So now wondering, take one of the Sub outputs and use to power something that is designed to actually work below 80Hz... it might fix everything. Would the amp cope driving one nasty BM underseat 2ohm "all round driver" and the other channel driving a proper Sub ?

[psmitty95]

Originally Posted by BOTUS

So I have just fitted this amp to my HiFi system in the 335d.

Initial impression Oh dear, its worse!!!

Completely thrown by the garbage info about the stock speaker set up. I suggest the biggest issue with the sound system is the speakers everyone is calling Subs. They are defiantly not Subs[/B].

In home HiFi terms Sub's work at 80hz and lower. With normal speakers coping well until this sort of frequency then struggling. So thinking the stock set up would be fairly normal. I set mine with S at LP 80 and F + R at HP 80. Setting the filters up like this, the system was a muddy horrible mess that's worse than the stock setup (I know that sounds impossible).

In a very confused state wondering if this amp is just garbage. I was trying to get my head around why anyone would have the filters set as high as earlier suggested in this post. Still thinking the 200 all round setting was still a very strange way to go about things, I went to 120 all round and its still a horrendous disaster.

Then I searched other forum's for a set up and saw this

F HP 210 min sens
R HP 235 min sens
S LP 250 9 o'clock sens


"Subs" also reco in post below to be set this HIGH
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=692688

So I gave it a go ... overall much more normal and just about acceptable.
Much better than BMW manage, if you hadn't heard anything better you might even like it. Still just about ZERO Bass though... bringing up the sensitivity past 9 o'clock just brings in a muddy undefined mess.

So now wondering, take one of the Sub outputs and use to power something that is designed to actually work below 80Hz... it might fix everything. Would the amp cope driving one nasty BM underseat 2ohm "all round driver" and the other channel driving a proper Sub ?

I'm a bit confused... So did you try the way I have my amp setup? If not you definitely should. My bass is definitely much harder than it was before and definitely there. Today I even gave a friend a listen who has Logic 7 and he was shocked at the difference from the amp. He said it's definitely noticeable and everything sounded much more powerful

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by BOTUS

So I have just fitted this amp to my HiFi system in the 335d.

Initial impression Oh dear, its worse!!!

Completely thrown by the garbage info about the stock speaker set up. I suggest the biggest issue with the sound system is the speakers everyone is calling Subs. They are defiantly not Subs[/B].

In home HiFi terms Sub's work at 80hz and lower. With normal speakers coping well until this sort of frequency then struggling. So thinking the stock set up would be fairly normal. I set mine with S at LP 80 and F + R at HP 80. Setting the filters up like this, the system was a muddy horrible mess that's worse than the stock setup (I know that sounds impossible).

In a very confused state wondering if this amp is just garbage. I was trying to get my head around why anyone would have the filters set as high as earlier suggested in this post. Still thinking the 200 all round setting was still a very strange way to go about things, I went to 120 all round and its still a horrendous disaster.

Then I searched other forum's for a set up and saw this

F HP 210 min sens
R HP 235 min sens
S LP 250 9 o'clock sens


"Subs" also reco in post below to be set this HIGH
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=692688

So I gave it a go ... overall much more normal and just about acceptable.
Much better than BMW manage, if you hadn't heard anything better you might even like it. Still just about ZERO Bass though... bringing up the sensitivity past 9 o'clock just brings in a muddy undefined mess.

So now wondering, take one of the Sub outputs and use to power something that is designed to actually work below 80Hz... it might fix everything. Would the amp cope driving one nasty BM underseat 2ohm "all round driver" and the other channel driving a proper Sub ?

So you tried random settings and it didn't sound good? That's not surprising.

The 4" door speakers can't really handle frequencies lower than around 150hz. Your lpf for the underseats and hpf for the door speakers should be the same frequency. Since the front and rear speakers are the same I don't see any reason to use different settings front and rear.

[BOTUS]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

So you tried random settings and it didn't sound good? That's not surprising.

The 4" door speakers can't really handle frequencies lower than around 150hz. Your lpf for the underseats and hpf for the door speakers should be the same frequency. Since the front and rear speakers are the same I don't see any reason to use different settings front and rear.

Biggest worry with stock set up was the sound wasn't integrated. The sound was clearly not where you would want it. With the sound seemingly coming from the rear floor of the car and nothing would give a sound stage approaching normal.

I did try 200 all round I didn't like it. Was playing so can't fully remember everything, but (what I guess we are calling) bass was dominant but nasty, lacking any definition and timing.

Winding up the "under seat midrange speakers", that everyone wants to call "sub's" to LP 250 removed the lack of definition. And whilst you get loud its not "right" and its certainly not "Bass"

With the rears at HP 235 the sound stage seemed far more normal with no overall dominate mistakes that seem inherent with the way BMW did it.

What is missing is treble and bass, although 3 clicks on the head unit for treble seems better (But I'm trying to get base setup of amp somewhere right first, so put that back to std)

I guess I might look for a small Sub to run in the boot so it has something. Makes the Bose Omega setup from 8 year earlier seem amazing... and I always thought that was just average