[feuer]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Tech

I have F30 Brembos, Front n Rear..I cant imagine a slightly larger rear rotor would change the bias of the braking, just a large sweep area but then again its minor..I went to a small rotor up front so I guess it would be ok. Did you mill your stock 335 hub ?

on F30 abs is programmable and that is how they get away with larger rear rotor. on the E90 you don't get that and since the brake master cylinder will be overwhelmed but the setup the bias will shift to the rear. Anyhow, no, I didn't mill the hub, I milled the caliper.

[Bavarian Tech]

Originally Posted by feuer

on F30 abs is programmable and that is how they get away with larger rear rotor. on the E90 you don't get that and since the brake master cylinder will be overwhelmed but the setup the bias will shift to the rear. Anyhow, no, I didn't mill the hub, I milled the caliper.

Whats rotors are you using F30 or E90 ?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Tech

Whats rotors are you using F30 or E90 ?

F30 345mm but you can reuse the E90 336mm 335i rotors. Both will work.

[Wlodi]

Originally Posted by feuer

If you are asking about the metal piece that looks like a fork with a loop, don't worry about that. That goes on the oposite side of the booster where the pedal attaches. Just remove yours and install M3


They come in orange, red and blue. I think your car is white so orange would look nice. Try to match your car interior.


Any e9x M3, they are all the same. No coding needed and fixes the soft pedal, yes!

I went to the track yesterday. The Cool Carbon performed well. I only got them because they were compatible price-wise with OEM but with next to ZERO brake dust.

I just want to be sure so wanna ask once again.
Do I have to replace just the master cylinder or the whole pump?


Im asking because I had the marked part replaced yesterday but it didn't solve the soft pedal issue.
Any advice ?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Wlodi

I just want to be sure so wanna ask once again.
Do I have to replace just the master cylinder or the whole pump?


Im asking because I had the marked part replaced yesterday but it didn't solve the soft pedal issue.
Any advice ?

That part is the same for all e9x and other BMW's. Instead you should have replaced the silver looking cylinder under the white reservoir where all the hydraulic lines attach to.

[FarfusLCI]

thx for info guys.
what do you mean by mushy? mushy like previous oem brake setup or a little bit better, but still not AP racing setup's feeling .
I m asking because on my previous car ( golf gti) I had a brake upgrade with porsche brembo calipers and the pedal feel was totally amazing. now, on my e90 320 the feeling is horrible in comparison to that. first thing after I bought the car was to change the brake lines with HEL ones and ds2500 pads but no big improvement.
Also the answer will help me cause I plan to upgrade to F30 335i fronts ( 340x30)
cheers

[feuer]

Originally Posted by FarfusLCI

thx for info guys.
what do you mean by mushy? mushy like previous oem brake setup or a little bit better, but still not AP racing setup's feeling .
I m asking because on my previous car ( golf gti) I had a brake upgrade with porsche brembo calipers and the pedal feel was totally amazing. now, on my e90 320 the feeling is horrible in comparison to that. first thing after I bought the car was to change the brake lines with HEL ones and ds2500 pads but no big improvement.
Also the answer will help me cause I plan to upgrade to F30 335i fronts ( 340x30)
cheers

Mushy means soft and slow responding. There is nothing you can do to make BMW F30 Brembo feel like the Porsche Brembo because Porsche designed them and Brembo only made them vs BMW Brembo that are sort of generic design. Additionally, Porsche Brembo are progressive, BMW Brembo are not and VW GTI 5 and up have electronic power assist and BMW doesn't. I know because I have them both.

[FarfusLCI]

Thank you Feuer! That's good to know! Would you recomend me the upgrade to F30 335 or the e90 335 system? In terms of daily driver and few track days per year? I had the feeling that the 4piston caliper from F30 will solve the pedal feel and initial bite/response of the brake. But if the feeling is the same with the stock e90 caliper....it s all about the costs.
Do you have a part no. For the master cylinder to change? Is that 400$ piece indicated in the above posts ?(on realoem) You said somethinng about a small part

[feuer]

Originally Posted by FarfusLCI

Thank you Feuer! That's good to know! Would you recomend me the upgrade to F30 335 or the e90 335 system? In terms of daily driver and few track days per year? I had the feeling that the 4piston caliper from F30 will solve the pedal feel and initial bite/response of the brake. But if the feeling is the same with the stock e90 caliper....it s all about the costs.
Do you have a part no. For the master cylinder to change? Is that 400$ piece indicated in the above posts ?(on realoem) You said somethinng about a small part

http://m.ebay.com/itm/291128940559?_...25.m3641.l6368
Buy used from $50 to $150. I did. No regrats.
Pedal feel would be worse with f30 calipers.
For best brake pedal on the e90 invest in m3 brake cylinder, good pads, stainless steel lines and caliper brass bushings.
You will like it, I guarantee it, better feel than stock e90 and f30 brembo at a lot lower cost.

[FarfusLCI]

Thanks for the info! I will write back my impressions as soon as I manage to get the F30 calipers from Wlodi. Another question : I alteady changed the brake lines with HEL Stainless steel. If I change the calipers (f30), will them fit ? Or i would need new ones because the screw thread is different? (It s good to know also for the others)

[feuer]

Originally Posted by FarfusLCI

Thanks for the info! I will write back my impressions as soon as I manage to get the F30 calipers from Wlodi. Another question : I alteady changed the brake lines with HEL Stainless steel. If I change the calipers (f30), will them fit ? Or i would need new ones because the screw thread is different? (It s good to know also for the others)

Pitch tread is the same, standard, fits almost all make and models, so you can re use the brake lines

[kOncept]

I've read the entire thread but I still have a few questions:

1. What exactly is required to retrofit the front calipers & 370mm rotors on an E92 335i?
Calipers, rotors, dust cover?

2. Can the front calipers be fitted with the standard E92 335i rotors?
What parts are required to make this work besides the calipers?

3. Does anyone know the difference in height and width between the F30 M-Sport and E92 335i front calipers if used with the E92 335i rotors?
(for example: 5mm closer to the barrel of the wheels, 5mm closer to the spokes)

[Wlodi]

Originally Posted by kOncept

I've read the entire thread but I still have a few questions:

1. What exactly is required to retrofit the front calipers & 370mm rotors on an E92 335i?
Calipers, rotors, dust cover?

2. Can the front calipers be fitted with the standard E92 335i rotors?
What parts are required to make this work besides the calipers?

3. Does anyone know the difference in height and width between the F30 M-Sport and E92 335i front calipers if used with the E92 335i rotors?
(for example: 5mm closer to the barrel of the wheels, 5mm closer to the spokes)

1. Calipers & Rotors
2. If U want to fit it with 335i 348mm rotors U should get the 340mm M-Sport calipers (not 370mm calipers - there are 2 versions)
3. Dont know. The f30 calipers fit with 313 wheel by 1-2 mm clearance on the spokes.

[kOncept]

Originally Posted by Wlodi

1. Calipers & Rotors
2. If U want to fit it with 335i 348mm rotors U should get the 340mm M-Sport calipers (not 370mm calipers - there are 2 versions)
3. Dont know. The f30 calipers fit with 313 wheel by 1-2 mm clearance on the spokes.

Thanks for the swift response. I read in another thread that some shaving of the brake pads are required for the 340mm calipers to work with the 348mm rotors is this true?

Would the 340mm rotor + caliper be a direct bolt on without extra parts?
(I would prefer not to shave brake pads etc...)

Lastly in terms of braking performance, would the 340mm option be worth the effort?

[Wlodi]

I dont know anything about brake pad shaving.
As far as I know the part number for performance (370mm set) brake pad and F30 335i (340mm set) brake pad are the same.


In my opinion the 340mm set is a direct PnP. The 370mm set was a direct bolt on - should be the same with the smaller set.

If You use a the same rotor but with better (4 pot ) calipers the performance will be better. Just install the e92 M3 master cylinder.

If You want You can try installing F30 Master Cylinder.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by kOncept

2. Can the front calipers be fitted with the standard E92 335i rotors?
What parts are required to make this work besides the calipers?

That will not work.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Wlodi

If You want You can try installing F30 Master Cylinder.

I don't think f30 would fit. Have you check?

[techwhiz]

I broke down today.
I bought a full kit including rear rotors for $1999.
The full kits (cheaper than putting a blue one together) in Red, Orange Yellow were available and I opted for the yellow to go on my Arctic car with anthracite wheels. Red was just too common and the orange was not a fit.

Anyway, once I get them, then the work begins.
Not worried about fitting under the wheels. I have Apex EC7 in 19" wheels which should clear the calipers without issue.

I'll need to find a machine shop to mill the rear calipers since I don't own a mill or lathe.
Can't swap the hubs since I'm running a 19x9.5 ET33 and pushing the wheels out 10mm would require a fender roll and pull. Not doing that.

I already have the M3 master sitting at home. I found one for $60 (thanks feuer for pointing that sucker out on eBay).
I need to buy some stainless lines and a brake bleeder.

How does one get rid of old brake fluid?????

[feuer]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

I broke down today.
I bought a full kit including rear rotors for $1999.
I already have the M3 master sitting at home. I found one for $60 (thanks feuer for pointing that sucker out on eBay).
I need to buy some stainless lines and a brake bleeder.

How does one get rid of old brake fluid?????

Your bank account is still better off then spending double that amount on other aftermarket kits.
Is easy to drain the old brake fluid. Just disconnect the lines and let them drip over night. But you don't really have to do all of that.
(stainless lines for regular e90 brakes work as well, that is what I have)
When you install the new calipers you will have to bleed the brakes so most of the old brake fluid will flash out then. I don't recommend buying a brake bleeder.
Instead use the INPA since you will have to activate the ABS pump and bleed the air out of the system that way. Is more proper way of doing it.
My brake pedal was soft until I bleed the system via INPA (bled it previously twice, by pumping the pedal and vie brake bleeder) INPA yield the best results.

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by feuer

Your bank account is still better off then spending double that amount on other aftermarket kits.
Is easy to drain the old brake fluid. Just disconnect the lines and let them drip over night. But you don't really have to do all of that.
(stainless lines for regular e90 brakes work as well, that is what I have)
When you install the new calipers you will have to bleed the brakes so most of the old brake fluid will flash out then. I don't recommend buying a brake bleeder.
Instead use the INPA since you will have to activate the ABS pump and bleed the air out of the system that way. Is more proper way of doing it.
My brake pedal was soft until I bleed the system via INPA (bled it previously twice, by pumping the pedal and vie brake bleeder) INPA yield the best results.

I have the software and have never used it. I also don't have the cable.
I don't think I'll be doing the master cyl until I get the software up and running.
I know I can swap the calipers and lines at the caliper without bleeding the ABS.
As long as I don't allow the master cyl to go low or get air in on the top side I'll be fine, pedal will be soft though.

I also need to find a machine shop to do the tabs on the calipers.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

I have the software and have never used it. I also don't have the cable.
I don't think I'll be doing the master cyl until I get the software up and running.
I know I can swap the calipers and lines at the caliper without bleeding the ABS.
As long as I don't allow the master cyl to go low or get air in on the top side I'll be fine, pedal will be soft though.

I also need to find a machine shop to do the tabs on the calipers.

Air travels up so is very possible to get some air bubbles trapped in the abs unit while you are working on the lines.
My recommendation is to do the master cylinder at the same time with the rest of the work regardless whether you will use INPA or not.
Try Rescino (415) 647-9575 they might be able to mill them down for you.

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by feuer

Air travels up so is very possible to get some air bubbles trapped in the abs unit while you are working on the lines.
My recommendation is to do the master cylinder at the same time with the rest of the work regardless whether you will use INPA or not.
Try Rescino (415) 647-9575 they might be able to mill them down for you.

You do have a point and might as well do the caliper since I need to bleed them anyway. For all the caliper swaps I've done I haven't done lines.
I've just clamped the hoses.

Rescino in SF is a bit out of the way.
I'm in the East Bay or in the South Bay daily so I'll check the machine shops I know around San Jose or Hayward.

I just need to order the lines and a power bleeder.

Oh boy fun..... This can't be any worse than my 1998 VFR800 that has a total of 11 brake lines with linked braking and where the there is a torque arm on the front fork that activates the center two pistons of the rear brake and an aux circuit so the rear brake can active the two center pistons of each front caliper.

Now that was fun... NOT.

Oh, I haven't forgotten that the holes on the knuckles need to be enlarged so the rear caliper will bolt up.