[Sbm007]

Hey all,

Need some help here. My 2011 E90 seems to have developed a major issue.

None of the electronics work, no lights, no alarm, no horn, nothing! Can't even unlock the doors with the keyfob, I have to use the physical key to open the driver's side door.

This is what happened:

I last drove the car yesterday evening and it was perfectly fine. Since then it's been parked on the drive all day today. When I got home from work today (evening time), I unlocked the car, took some stuff out from the back, and then locked the car again.

One hour later, I try to unlock the car and the alarm starts going off but the door's don't unlock. I repeatedly try to unlock using the keyfob but to no avail. I thought maybe the keyfob battery is dead so I got the spare key, and unfortunately same thing.

That's when I opened the door manually and inserted the key into the slot and again, nothing happens. In fact, the car doesn't even accept the key. Seems like there is no power to the electronics.

The alarm eventually went off after 5 minutes and then never came on again. I popped the bonnet and measured the battery voltage and it's fine (roughly 12.4V which I believe is normal when switched off).

I don't think it's the battery as I replaced it about 7-8 months ago and had it properly registered to the car and coded for correct type.

After a bit of Googling it seems that there was a recall in the states where the battery cable to the fusebox can get corroded and it exhibits this exact behaviour:

Specifically, see:

• http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...5#post10139765 (SIB)
• http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804545 (Recall notice)
• http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1205470 (Somebody else with same problem)

Going to give BMW a call tomorrow and see if they perform the fix out of goodwill or free of charge as it seems to be a known issue...

Is anyone familiar with this issue over in the UK? Or has anyone else experienced the same thing?

Cheers!

[Sbm007]

Annoyingly, can't even open the boot to check the battery itself to see if there has been some sort of water ingress.

I read that shaking the fusebox might bring it back to life as a corroded battery cable causes this intermittent failure, this would confirm that it is the battery cable that connects to the fusebox that's at fault.

Can anyone guide me in the right direction as to how to remove the fusebox? I know how to access it from the glovebox but space is very limited there.

[vorph]

TBH it can be bad distribution box connection, battery terminal or faulty CAS. I could fix this issue.

[Sbm007]

Interesting, what makes you think it's a faulty CAS? That seems more worrying! Was hoping it's just a bad connection

[vorph]

Same result, dead car.

[Sbm007]

Well I take it your not anywhere near Scotland? Car won't move so I couldn't drive it down. I think my best shot would be to get an indy to fix it...

[abeardo83]

You can get in the boot - there's a lock for the physical key to the right of the boot handle.
I reckon one of the battery cables has come loose. I missed one when I swapped batteries and the car was like a 1.5ton paperweight.

[Sbm007]

Originally Posted by abeardo83

You can get in the boot - there's a lock for the physical key to the right of the boot handle.
I reckon one of the battery cables has come loose. I missed one when I swapped batteries and the car was like a 1.5ton paperweight.

Good to know thanks. Oddly enough, this morning I tried unlocking the car and it unlocked just fine

Definitely seems to be some intermittent problem, and fortunately it's not the CAS. It is most likely a broken battery +ve cable to the fuse box/power distributor box.

[makkan00]

Seen twice.
First time it was faulty battery.
Although voltage was 12 ish but it was faulty battery.
I tried every single thing and then owner changed the battery and job done.
If AGM better develops issue, you can encounter this.

Especially when alarm was going off but then alarm may have killed the battery.

Second time it was battery connection to fuse box.


LCI cars do not have key locking switch to the boot. You can try and connect the jumper lead to the front terminals to see if that helps.
It failed on the car on which I worked.

[vorph]

If is dodgy connection behind fuse box there is not possible to open boot even via terminals under bonnet. CAS hasn't got any power to do any job.

[Sbm007]

Thanks for your replies guys, I really appreciate it.

Originally Posted by makkan00

Seen twice.
First time it was faulty battery.
Although voltage was 12 ish but it was faulty battery.
I tried every single thing and then owner changed the battery and job done.
If AGM better develops issue, you can encounter this.

Especially when alarm was going off but then alarm may have killed the battery.

Second time it was battery connection to fuse box.


LCI cars do not have key locking switch to the boot. You can try and connect the jumper lead to the front terminals to see if that helps.
It failed on the car on which I worked.

I replaced the battery about 6-7 months ago so it is a possibility there is a fault with the battery but having said that, I tried jump starting the car from the terminals under the bonnet last night and that did not help, still nothing. The boot wouldn't unlatch either... this is why I am more leaning towards the faulty connection to the fuse box.

I have the car booked in on Tuesday at an indy for a diagnosis, but I am going to have a go over the weekend to see if I can fix it myself. I hope it isn't too difficult to remove the fuse box.

Did you replace the fuse box as well Makkan? Or just the dodgy cable/connector?

Somebody is selling a used N47 fusebox on eBay for about 35 pounds with the connector and partial cable. I could probably salvage that and do a little repair job. The problem seems to manifest around the battery cable connector from what I've read.

[vorph]

It's not difficult to remove distribution box, but is time consuming. Just take glove box off together with bottom cover. Look for thick red cable and try to wiggled first.

[Sbm007]

Originally Posted by vorph

It's not difficult to remove distribution box, but is time consuming. Just take glove box off together with bottom cover. Look for thick red cable and try to wiggled first.

Thanks, will try this on Saturday.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Sbm007

Thanks for your replies guys, I really appreciate it.

I replaced the battery about 6-7 months ago so it is a possibility there is a fault with the battery but having said that, I tried jump starting the car from the terminals under the bonnet last night and that did not help, still nothing. The boot wouldn't unlatch either... this is why I am more leaning towards the faulty connection to the fuse box.

I have the car booked in on Tuesday at an indy for a diagnosis, but I am going to have a go over the weekend to see if I can fix it myself. I hope it isn't too difficult to remove the fuse box.

Did you replace the fuse box as well Makkan? Or just the dodgy cable/connector?

Somebody is selling a used N47 fusebox on eBay for about 35 pounds with the connector and partial cable. I could probably salvage that and do a little repair job. The problem seems to manifest around the battery cable connector from what I've read.

I had the similar thing when tried to jump start.
The right way is to completely take the battery out and used a different battery.

This is once you have ruled out the thick red cables. Fuse box has nothing to do with it as its the cable, if it goes faulty.

My gut feeling says its agm battery failing. Which brand was that?

[surrey 335i]

when I had this it was a failed CAS car was dead, was not intermitant which sounds like a connection.
did you code the battery to the car when you changed the battery? not sure if that would affect it?

[Sbm007]

Originally Posted by makkan00

I had the similar thing when tried to jump start.
The right way is to completely take the battery out and used a different battery.

This is once you have ruled out the thick red cables. Fuse box has nothing to do with it as its the cable, if it goes faulty.

My gut feeling says its agm battery failing. Which brand was that?

Thanks, I'll start by checking the red cable and if that looks OK I'll scrutinise the battery and see if something is up with that. Just came home from a 2 hour drive and car drove like a dream, absolutely no issues at all.

I'll check the battery brand on the weekend when I take it all apart. I ordered it directly from BMW through Cotsworld.

It was part numbers:

61217575327
61216924022

And the battery rating:

90AH, 160 RC, 900CCA

Originally Posted by surrey 335i

when I had this it was a failed CAS car was dead, was not intermitant which sounds like a connection.
did you code the battery to the car when you changed the battery? not sure if that would affect it?

I didn't have to code the car as the battery was a like for like replacement, exact same type/rating/etc. I double checked the battery type on the car with NCSExpert just to make sure.

I did however register the battery using WinFKP as that is needed for new batteries.

[Sbm007]

Car's been running fine, but I'm not taking any chances and will replace the battery +ve connector.

I did some research and discovered the following:

Rather than buying the full battery +ve cable for 100 odd quid, you can buy a repair kit which is what they use in the states (see attachments for repair guide).

The part number is: 61129312133



Shipped to UK for £33 from http://www.original-genuine-spare-pa...abel_(bmw).htm

Just placed the order so will carry out a repair as soon as it comes through.

Will keep you all updated.

[N54andS63TU]

I have the same issues, completely dead doesn't accept the key, alarm goes off. What was your solution

[N54andS63TU]

Originally Posted by Sbm007

Car's been running fine, but I'm not taking any chances and will replace the battery +ve connector.

I did some research and discovered the following:

Rather than buying the full battery +ve cable for 100 odd quid, you can buy a repair kit which is what they use in the states (see attachments for repair guide).

The part number is: 61129312133



Shipped to UK for £33 from http://www.original-genuine-spare-pa...abel_(bmw).htm

Just placed the order so will carry out a repair as soon as it comes through.

Will keep you all updated.

Did this cable fix it?

[Sbm007]

Originally Posted by N54andS63TU

Did this cable fix it?

Was a long time ago since I had my E90 but yes the cable did fix my issue back then

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by Sbm007

Will keep you all updated.

Finally!!!

Thanks for the update

[Sbm007]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Finally!!!

Thanks for the update

Better late than never right