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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Cost to own E90 328i yearly



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      10-26-2020, 11:37 PM   #45
krhodes1
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2011 128i  [10.00]
2011 BMW 328i Touring  [10.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayk90 View Post
You're right all cars have their pitfalls. I think the most important thing with any car is its condition and ownership history.

I've personally experienced a money pit Lexus because the car was trashed and driven into the ground before I got it. And reading this thread, it seems there are cream puff BMWs out there that didn't have anything but routine maintenance done to them.

My rule of thumb with used cars: get the cleanest best kept example in your budget. Don't settle for an abused car just because it fits your dollar amount - you'll spend double or triple of that in repairs and go upside down very quickly.

The one cool thing about BMW is they make a really good mechanic out of you, as once you master BMW there is not much you can't do
You have to go by the averages. There are money-pit Hondas and Toyotas and there are BMWs like mine that have just needed nothing, ever. But statistically, you are more likely to get a really good Honda than a really good BMW. Their quality control is just a lot better and the cars are more consistent.

Ultimately, I don't care - even if my BMWs cost me many times what it has to maintain I would still prefer to drive them than drive any Honda. In that class of car, I buy VWs. And I don't complain when they break - though my '17 GTI has also not had a single issue since I bought it almost four years ago - literally nothing but annual oil changes and tire rotations.

Note that I also think things have trended towards the middle - the Japanese cars are NOT as good as they once were, and the Germans are a hell of a lot better than they once were.

I VERY much agree with you on used cars. You can't make an average one really nice for what a really nice one costs most of the time.
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'11 328! Touring - Tasman on Chestnut, 6spd manual, factory upside-down "i" option
'11 128i Convertible - Space Gray on Savannah Beige, 6spd manual,
also '14 Mercedes-Benz E350 wagon, '95 Land Rover Discovery, '74 Triumph Spitfire
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      10-28-2020, 03:11 AM   #46
tobeydw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
How much of that is actually broken vs. you are replacing parts because the internet says so?

At 100,000, the spark plugs are due along with a coolant flush, and driveline fluids and the serp belt, so I can see refreshing those items. I can see the brakes needing a refresh if the CBS indicates the pads have reached their limits. The other items seem like overkill based on my experience with my E90.
Most of it was required.

Oil pan still isn't done yet, but will look at it in the near future depending on how much oil im losing.


Water pump and thermostat as preventative at 110k miles, never been changed before.

Trans fluid and filter along with mechatronic sleeve at 110k miles, never been done before. Better to change it then not.

Valve cover gasket.. Oil was leaking everywhere so necessary.

Eccentric shaft sensor, oil was on the sensor upon valve cover gasket removal so figured it'd be easier to just have it done on the spot.

As for PCV system, the PCV itself was leaking as well as one of the hoses that connects it to the valve cover was completely broken (common issue)

Radiator upper corner was leaking, so needed to replace the radiator. Figured I'd also replace the common broken expansion tank to upper radiator hose as well as the upper radiator hose just for preventative measures. Also, the lower radiator hose has a leaking o ring on the auxiliary fan switch so I need to replace that still.

2 of my stock shocks are blown, so that's the reason for the Bilstein B12 and new shock mounting hardware (the rear lower shock mounts corrode if your shocks are blown for too long since the oil from the shock covers it).

Control arms aren't necessary, but mainly just wanted an entire suspension refresh. Same goes with the subframe bushing inserts.

Brakes were all shot lol, and never received a brake fluid flush in its life.

Differential fluid was like $10 so why not.

Spark plugs and ignition coils, my idle was complete ass so these were necessary.

Belts and tensioner were just preventative maintenance. They were still fine when I pulled them off. I think the kit was like $60 though so I didn't care too much.
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      10-29-2020, 12:29 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineE93 View Post
2 A/C refills, you may have a problem.
AlpineE93 - good catch, yes.

TL;DR

One day I noticed that AC was not blowing cold, along with light noise from compressor at idle.

(Until last year, I was still going to the stop for repairs.)
The shop had my car for few days and finally found light evap leak.

I was presented 2 options: fix evap ($1,500+) OR refill AC every other year.
I did the math, and at ~$125 per refill $1,500+ would cover next 24 years.

Long time ago I met retired person who bought a land in Santa Barbara next to a falling cliff.
I asked "why? You house will eventually slide into the ocean."
He said, "yes, but I do not expect to live more than 100years."

Given the above and the fact that AC is barely used in San Francisco I opted for refills at the time.

Shortly after last AC refill, I got AC blower motor recall completed.
Not sure how or if at all it is related, but I have not had a need for more refills since then.
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      10-29-2020, 12:36 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayk90 View Post
Wow I love your spreadsheet. What is LOF - Lube Oil Filter? Also, is that DIY costs?
Hayk90

LOF - yes, "Lube Oil Filter" - so it fits in the small notes box for a year
This is the summary sheet - I have detailed OCD-style log records too

2019-2020 - all DIY costs (thank you all here, youtube and newtis)
2014-2018 - non-DIY expenses
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