[RL18]

Originally Posted by bmwdiesel

I have checked vacuum hoses and changed those that didnt look good, but now when I start the car the brake pedal is stiff, which should be sign of no vacuum, where before it was fine. all hoses are connected good and since I dont want to take out intake for nothing, I am trying to find out if you can actually blow into the hose that connects under the right sight of the intake that is pictured below. I am using the hose number 5 that also connects to the pressure converter and that is air tight to the converter but I can blow the air into this 5 nipple connection opening. it is little resistant, but I can blow it. I tried with a smoke if there is a hole but didnt see it coming. can someone confirm whether this should be air tight or whether you can push air there that would mean somewhere is a hole? I understand that vacuum is from vacuum pump that is the thick hose on the bottom and the 5 nipples introduce the vacuum into the other parts of engine. If it should be air tight, I know some component is leaking, but maybe some air can be pushed to the vacuum pump, or swirl flaps electric valve? if anyone knows would be good, because I am doing this 5 days already

Did you check your vacuum pump? When I did my vacuum lines I even changed out the two gaskets on that. Other than that it could be the engine mounts.

[bmwdiesel]

thanks for reply. I had opened vacuum pump about 2 weeks ago and it looked fine, but what do you mean by engine mounts? how they relate to vacuum? because I was extensively looking for some fallen bolts in the engine bay with magnet stick....could I move disconnect break something there?

[RL18]

Originally Posted by bmwdiesel

thanks for reply. I had opened vacuum pump about 2 weeks ago and it looked fine, but what do you mean by engine mounts? how they relate to vacuum? because I was extensively looking for some fallen bolts in the engine bay with magnet stick....could I move disconnect break something there?

What do you mean by opened the vacuum pump? Like unbolted it and pulled it out? If you did you need to replace both gaskets on it because they're most likely compromised now.

The engine mounts are part of the vacuum system. The EUV for them is on the right side of intake towards the back of the engine bay. Turbo, engine mounts, and brakes. They adjust while your driving to stiffen or get softer depending on the situation. If they have a leak you'll lose vacuum it affects the whole vacuum system.

[Yozh]

Some new videos:

[aj@ajsautomotive.net.au]

thanks for adding me

[remlemasi]

Hey Yozh

Great videos. I wish I watched them before I did the VCG + vacuum lines. Just finished last night.

I didn’t test anything or replace any pressure converters or electric switchover valves or actuators. How often do these go bad? Should I tear back into it to get to them?

2011 335d with 111k miles.

Is there a way to test the system as a whole? I’m thinking plug into where the EGR electric switchover valve tee is and apply vacuum there?

[Yozh]

Hey, thank you. Lots of ways to test the system. There are ISTA specific test plans for all of these. Or you can do manual testing. See what your system vacuum is. Then test all vacuum a actuators to make sure they hold vacuum. Same goes for motor mounts and electric switchover valves. Pressure converters are harder to test. But not impossible. I played with running TestO with specific parameters and then having a vac gauge tee’d off seeing how slow it gets compared to requested through TestO parameter. But ISTA is a good way to test these. Do these go bad. Yes eventually everything gets tired and slow. EL valves are cheap at $20 a piece. Pressure converters are not so much.

[4W_Drift]

Great info!

I'm Troubleshooting a very low turbo activity from HP turbo. I used to hear it whine and boost at idle. I used to have great power and torque from a stop.

After my hybrid turbo swap. I have none of these and my exhaust seems thick with fuel.

What did I do wrong?

I've checked all my actuators and they operate and hold vacuum perfectly. The large actuator pulls in on Engine start up as expected.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by 4W_Drift

Great info!

I'm Troubleshooting a very low turbo activity from HP turbo. I used to hear it whine and boost at idle. I used to have great power and torque from a stop.

After my hybrid turbo swap. I have none of these and my exhaust seems thick with fuel.

What did I do wrong?

I've checked all my actuators and they operate and hold vacuum perfectly. The large actuator pulls in on Engine start up as expected.

First and foremost, pull the data parameters and see how your boost stacks up. If you had no problems prior the the turbo swap then look at what you did.

[4W_Drift]

What should boost at idle be?
I'm getting vacuum.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by 4W_Drift

What should boost at idle be?
I'm getting vacuum.

Is car stock? Usually boost at idle is about 0.5psi or so. Vacuum at regeneration. Measure it when car is fully warmed up so you don’t get EGR weirdness

[maryjane]

Originally Posted by 4W_Drift

What should boost at idle be?
I'm getting vacuum.

Did you ever figure yours out?....mine is driving me nuts.