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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > bone head move left my Cobb removing maps all day and drained battery



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      01-25-2014, 08:16 AM   #1
Pr335bob
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bone head move left my Cobb removing maps all day and drained battery

Hi,
Bone head move I know. I had my daughter at home yesterday after work. And forgot I left the Cobb ap removing itself from my 07 335. Was going to work today and found my car drained and the key stuck. What should I do? Boost it with another car see if it functii
Ons normally? Or should I just get a new battery from auto zone and take advantage that it's fully drained in order to replace? Will the key being stuck affect battery install? Can I code the battery with in pa software? Thanks guys. I can't believe I did this I was tired from work and then was playing with my daughter she's a handful. But I can't believe I did this.
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      01-25-2014, 09:29 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr335bob View Post
Hi,
Bone head move I know. I had my daughter at home yesterday after work. And forgot I left the Cobb ap removing itself from my 07 335. Was going to work today and found my car drained and the key stuck. What should I do? Boost it with another car see if it functii
Ons normally? Or should I just get a new battery from auto zone and take advantage that it's fully drained in order to replace? Will the key being stuck affect battery install? Can I code the battery with in pa software? Thanks guys. I can't believe I did this I was tired from work and then was playing with my daughter she's a handful. But I can't believe I did this.
I wouldn't bother replacing your battery unless you have had issues with it or end up with issues after the fact. I however would not recomend jumping a dead battery. I had the water pump kill mine a month or two ago. I recovered it with my Ctek battery charger and have had better cold star cranks since. Put any trickle carger on it and it should come back fine. Not sure what is up with the key. If you don't have voltage maybe the lock soleniod stayed down and once you get minimum to power the dme it might release.
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09 135I M (VK80379) 6MT. Race Project car. 1) Install Cobb/piggyback? and Motiv 600 Kit[HTA3076R w/ tial .82] 2) JRZ or Moton suspension. 3) Build high flow intake manifold with multi-port fuel and relocate OFH 4) Build full cage 5) Complete staged twin setup with HTA4205R [w/Tial 1.16] 6) Complete dry sump system
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      01-25-2014, 09:59 AM   #3
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Thanks . Yeah the key thing is wierd. But I will search what a trickle charge is and will try it if it worked for u.
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      01-25-2014, 10:05 AM   #4
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I just don't won't to have had mess up anything on the ecu because I had the Cobb on .It probably finish but was waiting for the stop button.
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      01-25-2014, 10:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Thanks . Yeah the key thing is wierd. But I will search what a trickle charge is and will try it if it worked for u.
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I just don't won't to have had mess up anything on the ecu because I had the Cobb on .It probably finish but was waiting for the stop button.
I don't use a cobb but maybe someone can chime in on that part. As for a trickle charger it is a slang term for a low amp battery charger. Most parts stores should have them for 30-60 bucks for the big old school ones(Only charge with these for a few days at a time max). I have a 100 dollar Ctek that I use on the race car. It does the same thing it is just a smart charger so I can leave it hooked up 100% of the time without overcharging the battery.
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09 135I M (VK80379) 6MT. Race Project car. 1) Install Cobb/piggyback? and Motiv 600 Kit[HTA3076R w/ tial .82] 2) JRZ or Moton suspension. 3) Build high flow intake manifold with multi-port fuel and relocate OFH 4) Build full cage 5) Complete staged twin setup with HTA4205R [w/Tial 1.16] 6) Complete dry sump system
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      01-25-2014, 10:39 AM   #6
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Thanks I appreciate the suggestions. I know what you mean ive seen those. I'll get one today let u know how it goes.
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      01-25-2014, 01:18 PM   #7
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just charge the car you should be good to go. cobb doesn't do anything after you write the ecu just clears codes and says please turn off ignition
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      01-25-2014, 02:01 PM   #8
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if the car died half way through the cobb ap has a recovery mode it will go through once there is power so you should be fine.
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      01-26-2014, 07:15 AM   #9
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My battery died while installing the cobb. When I put the battery charger on the car the cobb showed recovery mode on the screen, after the recovery mode was completed I tried to start the car but no luck, the car didn't start. After a couple attempts I uninstalled the cobb completely and installed it again. The car started with no problems...
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      01-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #10
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Was going to buy the trickle charger but my dad convinced me to jump start with his pickup truck battery.
Followed the BMW manual instructions. At first didn't have enough just but I tried like after a minute. BMW manual says to leave it for a couple of mins and slightly accelerate the donor vehicle. After about 3 minutes it turned on. Removed the booster cables and left the car on for an hour. Just started the car this mourning and everything seems to be functioning normally. Thanks!
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      01-26-2014, 09:21 AM   #11
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Yeah I believe the Cobb had uninstalled completely it was just waiting for me. So thank god for nothing happening to the ecu. Didn't know Cobb had a recovery type software integrated for these types of circumstances kudos to them for an excellent product. I so far have loved my Cobb ap. And has saved me a ton of money with the troubleshooting option. Obviously this happened to me because I wasn't paying attention. Not at all Cobbs fault. Like I said my daughter is a handful at 1 year and a half. Has a la the energy in the world lol. But thanks everyone for the advice and the piece of mind letting me know the ecu was going to be okay .
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      01-26-2014, 09:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Was going to buy the trickle charger but my dad convinced me to jump start with his pickup truck battery.
Followed the BMW manual instructions. At first didn't have enough just but I tried like after a minute. BMW manual says to leave it for a couple of mins and slightly accelerate the donor vehicle. After about 3 minutes it turned on. Removed the booster cables and left the car on for an hour. Just started the car this mourning and everything seems to be functioning normally. Thanks!
No problem. The only reason it is not recomended to jump a dead battery is that it has the potential to boil. Just something to remember if it is in the engine bay to stand clear of the battery while jumping. It woud also be quite the mess to clean up in the trunk.
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09 135I M (VK80379) 6MT. Race Project car. 1) Install Cobb/piggyback? and Motiv 600 Kit[HTA3076R w/ tial .82] 2) JRZ or Moton suspension. 3) Build high flow intake manifold with multi-port fuel and relocate OFH 4) Build full cage 5) Complete staged twin setup with HTA4205R [w/Tial 1.16] 6) Complete dry sump system
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      01-26-2014, 03:43 PM   #13
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Hey btw noticed your 335 is at 89k how's it holding up? Thinking about selling mine but I Like the car so much. It's so versatile. V8 performance v6 mpg. I've had mine since 10k miles. Second owner. So far have had the gasket replaced. Automatic transmission leak. 3 bad injectors. After warranty.
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      01-26-2014, 04:18 PM   #14
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Hey btw noticed your 335 is at 89k how's it holding up? Thinking about selling mine but I Like the car so much. It's so versatile. V8 performance v6 mpg. I've had mine since 10k miles. Second owner. So far have had the gasket replaced. Automatic transmission leak. 3 bad injectors. After warranty.
Yeah I'm at 92K now. I'm third owner just got it in November as I want to switch my track car to a 1 series. I've done plugs and need to do the brakes once it warms up a bit other than that no issues. I'll probably do a valve cleaning this spring when I start tearing into the motor to see how it ticks and what I'll want to change.
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07 335XI (A008006) 6AT ~94K miles JB4 G5 ISO VSRF DP's
09 135I M (VK80379) 6MT. Race Project car. 1) Install Cobb/piggyback? and Motiv 600 Kit[HTA3076R w/ tial .82] 2) JRZ or Moton suspension. 3) Build high flow intake manifold with multi-port fuel and relocate OFH 4) Build full cage 5) Complete staged twin setup with HTA4205R [w/Tial 1.16] 6) Complete dry sump system
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      01-26-2014, 06:12 PM   #15
Pr335bob
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Sounds good so far. These car are awesome on track. So far I've tracked mine twice. But they are high maintenance. I'm thinking of going Lexus is f 2010 up when they go down In price. 2010 up because those came with real lsd. Or stay with my 335 tuned and add a quaife. My 335 is almost paid for. So it's a huge decision. But can't beat a is f in terms of relaibilty. And adding the lsd really helped coming out of corners. Either way much luck with your project. A used135 is really the bargain of our time. Small superb handling and light. And a lot of power perfect track car
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