[1PolarBear1]

Looking for some advice. I bought a very used 2007 328XI, which we're fixing up for my son. Though the suspension was broken, I drove it home from the auction and got it into the garage to address the suspension and brake issues. I also changed the fluids, including the AFT, it has a GM automatic transmission.

During the change out, I also dropped the transmission pan and changed the o-ring, gasket and the transmission fluid. The existing fluid, at 229,000 km or 143,000 miles, was actually pretty clean looking with very little debris around the magnet. Anyway, I filled it with new fluid, let it soak in, filled it until it drips out of the fill hole again (even tilted the car nose down a bit so it could get a good fill) and now I'm trying to get the car going. I did not do any kind of special reset to the car, just tried to start it up, and the goal there was to get the AFT temperature up to 50 degrees C then shift through the gears.

However, the AFT isn't really warming while it's in neutral (had it running just shy of 10 minutes, but on a cold day with the garage door open) and so I tried to shift it into gear, to see if it helps to get some motion going through the transmission.

The car won't shift into any gear though (it's on axle stands) and it's throwing a few codes on my generic OBD2 reader. I then looked these all up on https://bmwfault.codes/

P1707: EGS: transmission control module: processor or layer 3 fault
P180A: EGS: Clutch, gears 3, 5 and R:neutral test
P181A: EGS: Clutch, gears 1, 2, 3 and 4: neutral test
P180E: EGS: Clutch, gears 2 and 6: neutral test

So a few questions:

- Should I try to just clear the codes and try again
- Is there some other kind of start up sequence I need to do to get the car to give the transmission another try?

Also, I want to note that though the car wasn't happy during it's last drive before getting to our house, the transmission worked and it hasn't really endured anything since then, just spent time (indoor heated) getting the battery charged while we fixed the suspension, brakes, some filter changes and fluids, plus some body work.

Thanks in advance!

[Greyfox]

Just to verify... you did fill up with the car running?

Does your scanner have a maintenance menu? I know my unit does and there is a maintenance option for the transmission.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by 1PolarBear1

... 2007 328XI... changed the fluids, including the ATF, it has a GM automatic transmission.

During the change out, I also dropped the transmission pan and changed the o-ring,[do you mean the seal for filter neck? Did you pry OLD seal out of transmission casting hole?] gasket and the transmission fluid... I filled it with new fluid, let it soak in, filled it until it drips out of the fill hole again (even tilted the car nose down a bit so it could get a good fill) and now I'm trying to get the car going. I did not do any kind of special reset to the car, just tried to start it up, and the goal there was to get the AFT temperature up to 50 degrees C then shift through the gears. [You need to add MORE Dexron VI Fluid, with ENGINE RUNNING & Pump pumping (~ 1.5 Qt.) until fluid runs out of fill hole. THEN insert Fill Plug. See Below]
The car won't shift into any gear though (it's on axle stands) and it's throwing a few codes on my generic OBD2 reader...

If the transmission shifted fine BEFORE Fluid/Filter Change, and it won't engage ANY gear, forward or reverse NOW, likely either fluid level is Low, OR the Filter is cavitating due to improper seal on filter neck where it inserts into Transmission body. ONE of those is causing insufficient pump pressure.

When you remove the OLD Filter, the Seal stays in the transmission body hole, and you have to PRY it out, Carefully bending the circular seal into a "collapsed "C" on one side, WITHOUT scarring/ scratching the Transmission Body opening.

GM6 AT MUST be running with fluid Warm, NOT HOT, AFTER shifting through gears, vehicle LEVEL (or slightly nose-down ;-) to add last Quart or Two until fluid begins to run out of fill hole. I've done my own work for years, but had some issues with filter seal the first time, and working under a vehicle with running engine, all FOUR (4) wheels off ground (I used Ramps rather than jack stands) is cause for concern.

My guess is your fluid level is nearly 2 Quarts LOW, but check Filter Seal if any doubt. NO need to reset adaptations after fluid change on GM6.
George

[1PolarBear1]

Thanks for the responses. So I first filled the ATF with the car cold, then ran it, then filled up again (2nd time) until the fluid came out of the fill hole (and the car was angled nose-down a bit even for this second fill, to get a bit more in) but now, after that second fill, that's where we are.

Also, about the o-ring/seal, yes, that was tough, but I replaced it. I collapsed it on one side, then grabbed it with some needle nose pliers and installed the new seal that came with my new filter (a Febi kit from FCP Euro). Initially, the new filter tube was tough to push in but I kept it nice and straight, put some new AFT on the seal to lubricate it and then pushed it, I'm pretty sure it's not my problem.

[1PolarBear1]

So it sounds like I'm going to go in again and try to fill it even more, but for this 3rd round, should I have the car running (on axle stands)? Or can I do it with the car not running, slightly nose-down, but cold?

[StradaRedlands]

You want it in gear, but your foot on the brake to warm it up. Not in neutral. Don't let the wheels spin, so keep your foot on the brake. It warms up pretty quickly that way. Hope that helps with the second round! And are you monitoring fluid temps via your OBD tool, or measuring it externally? Measuring externally with a infrared thermometer or similar doesn't work as well. Internal fluid temps will be much higher than the pan or trans body.

[bmwbob89]

The car has to be running while filling it. Otherwise you will be very low on fluid. The car should be level on 4 jack stands. Trans oil temp should be 30C when checking the fluid level. Fill till it runs out of the hole and your done. I would also add a bottle of shudder fixx while your there since they have an issue with this.

[cmbe92guy]

A helpful schematic describing the fill procedure on a zf trans. This is for an 8hp. The process should be the same for the 6hp.

[1PolarBear1]

it's going to be external for temperature measurement, but thanks for all the tips, the videos I watched about the procedure weren't too clear on needing to have the car running (presumably pumping through the system may drop the liquid level in the bottom of the pan). Appreciate all the tips...

[Greyfox]

Originally Posted by 1PolarBear1

So it sounds like I'm going to go in again and try to fill it even more, but for this 3rd round, should I have the car running (on axle stands)? Or can I do it with the car not running, slightly nose-down, but cold?

Car running, in park, and must be warm. From Bentley manual....

[1PolarBear1]

Greyfox, that scan is exactly it. I wanted to ask, I'm contemplating removing the exhaust bracket for a short time during the fill process, otherwise it's very hard for my fat fingers to get the drain bolt started back on, all the while ATF is running down my arm. I've heard folks do it for some of the other transmissions (remove/loosen the bracket), but I guess I'll see and report back. The only downside was that two of the bolts holding on the bracket are E-torx (E10) and really close to the transmission pan, so close that a socket won't go on, I'll try an e-torx box wrench, otherwise I'll deal with the running-down-the-arm thing one last time...

[mainbearing]

Yes, if the engine was not running, while filling ATF, then the fluid level will be off.

The GM filter seal design was pretty bad. I always use a socket to pound it in to seat it. As far as getting the old one out, no need to crush it, I use a socket and 6" 3/8"-drive extension. Just pry it side ways it pops right out.

Here is the forum DIY on the 6L45 filter change. See post 75 on an alternate method to the socket and extension bar.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...=573490&page=4

[Greyfox]

Originally Posted by 1PolarBear1

Greyfox, that scan is exactly it. I wanted to ask, I'm contemplating removing the exhaust bracket for a short time during the fill process, otherwise it's very hard for my fat fingers to get the drain bolt started back on, all the while ATF is running down my arm. I've heard folks do it for some of the other transmissions (remove/loosen the bracket), but I guess I'll see and report back. The only downside was that two of the bolts holding on the bracket are E-torx (E10) and really close to the transmission pan, so close that a socket won't go on, I'll try an e-torx box wrench, otherwise I'll deal with the running-down-the-arm thing one last time...

Yeah... I take that bracket off and let it dangle on the last bolt since the pan basically blocks it from coming out.

[Bims328i]

I remember doing my trans pan and filter. I noticed the transmission was making a weird faint noise after doing the initial fill. That was I filled it up until it drained out then learned you need to cycle through P,R,N,D with the car running in order to add more fluid to get the proper level.

[E90Dom]

Did you ever figure it out?