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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Sub Frame (stupid question)



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      02-26-2024, 08:42 PM   #1
imarichards
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Sub Frame (stupid question)

my 328i 2011 sedan( 162K miles) is leaking oil from valve gasket area. I think the oil pan gasket also leaking.

I saw bunch on DIY videos on replacing oil pan gasket. All includes this sub frame to hold on the top. I didn't quiet get why we need this. Is this a must? why do we need it?
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      02-27-2024, 12:54 AM   #2
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The upper support bar? You need that to support the engine once the subframe is removed so the engine doesn't drop down.

If you don't have the upper support bar then the motor will drop down when you remove the subframe and you will not be able to get the subframe back in or would need to use the pressure of fasteners to pull the engine and subframe back into place which would not be a good idea, that's why.

When dropping the subframe you want to remove to two rear angled bolts first then the four flat ones then reverse on assembly. Failure to do so can result in the unibody thread point being damaged which is not cool in the least bit.
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      02-27-2024, 07:09 AM   #3
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Yep ^

The engine is mounted to the subframe on engine mounts. If you remove the subframe but don't hold engine, it falls with it on you.
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      02-27-2024, 03:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imarichards View Post
my 328i 2011 sedan( 162K miles) is leaking oil from valve gasket area. I think the oil pan gasket also leaking.

I saw bunch on DIY videos on replacing oil pan gasket. All includes this sub frame to hold on the top. I didn't quiet get why we need this. Is this a must? whyyou do we need it?
It's easy to mistake an oil pan leak for what may be entirely a result of the valve cover leaking (so do valve cover first and see if that resolves what you suspect the oil pan is responsible for). You can avoid purchasing the engine brace which for many would be a one time use to do the oil pan gasket, if it comes to that.

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      02-27-2024, 04:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloverdale View Post
It's easy to mistake an oil pan leak for what may be entirely a result of the valve cover leaking (so do valve cover first and see if that resolves what you suspect the oil pan is responsible for). You can avoid purchasing the engine brace which for many would be a one time use to do the oil pan gasket, if it comes to that.

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      02-27-2024, 05:53 PM   #6
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this chassis is very modular for many drivetrain option.

front subframe is 6 bolts , transmission (6mt) 6 bolts and rear sub frame 4 bolts.

then the whole drivetrain is out. ( yes need to unplug the dme and few hoses and connectors), but this is quite an easy car to work on.
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      02-27-2024, 06:03 PM   #7
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https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html
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      02-28-2024, 11:00 AM   #8
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PO's set up:

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      02-28-2024, 11:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StradaRedlands View Post
PO's set up:

I think I've seen that pic before, in a OSHA publication entitled "Safety, E9X BMW Engine OPG Swap".
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      02-28-2024, 03:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I think I've seen that pic before, in a OSHA publication entitled "Safety, E9X BMW Engine OPG Swap".
I think someone did a "Strength of Materials" Article based on that photo:
"Identify the most likely part to FAIL".

NEW QUESTION:
Is it POSSIBLE to change the gasket on N52 Sump WITHOUT removing subframe? I have never looked at it that closely. However, I Did replace sump gasket on F-150 once in less than an hour by just dropping pan ~ 2", prying old gasket off, and installing NEW Gasket under/ around oil pickup. If gasket had been stuck to sump or block, gasket debris would have been an issue, but that was NOT the case.

WHAT prevents this on N52? Has anyone TRIED? Any issue at REAR of sump? I realize it's NOT just a "Pan".
George
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      02-28-2024, 05:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
I think someone did a "Strength of Materials" Article based on that photo:
"Identify the most likely part to FAIL".
I wonder what the jackstand setup looks like...

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop

NEW QUESTION:
Is it POSSIBLE to change the gasket on N52 Sump WITHOUT removing subframe? I have never looked at it that closely. However, I Did replace sump gasket on F-150 once in less than an hour by just dropping pan ~ 2", prying old gasket off, and installing NEW Gasket under/ around oil pickup. If gasket had been stuck to sump or block, gasket debris would have been an issue, but that was NOT the case.

WHAT prevents this on N52? Has anyone TRIED? Any issue at REAR of sump? I realize it's NOT just a "Pan".
George
I once changed the gasked on an e46 by only lowering the subframe down and not fully removing it. It was a PITA, I should have just removed it.

You can do things lots of ways but that doesn't mean it is a good way to do it. I have heard of people changing turbos without dropping the subframe on an e90 335i but I don't see how it would be faster or easier than just dropping the subframe and pushing it aside...

-Rich
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      02-29-2024, 01:30 AM   #12
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That is honestly slick thinking Efthreeoh haha.

I like the angle of the wood fender supports as the one from Harbor Freight doesn't seem to line up as well.

I'm still planning to pick up one of the HF braces because I lack the woodworking tools but assume a hole and slot in that beam would allow for plenty of up/down adjustment.
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      02-29-2024, 01:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bims328i View Post
That is honestly slick thinking Efthreeoh haha.

I like the angle of the wood fender supports as the one from Harbor Freight doesn't seem to line up as well.

I'm still planning to pick up one of the HF braces because I lack the woodworking tools but assume a hole and slot in that beam would allow for plenty of up/down adjustment.
The HF one works well. It just got done using mine for a turbo swap and oil pan gasket change. I also added oil pan baffles when I had the pan off. I wish I had thought to add a dipstick when having the baffles welded in....

You can angle the outsides enough and it pivots a little for the angle.

Having the threaded hook is nice because you can snug it up after aligning the bar.

-Rich
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      02-29-2024, 06:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
I think someone did a "Strength of Materials" Article based on that photo:
"Identify the most likely part to FAIL".

NEW QUESTION:
Is it POSSIBLE to change the gasket on N52 Sump WITHOUT removing subframe? I have never looked at it that closely. However, I Did replace sump gasket on F-150 once in less than an hour by just dropping pan ~ 2", prying old gasket off, and installing NEW Gasket under/ around oil pickup. If gasket had been stuck to sump or block, gasket debris would have been an issue, but that was NOT the case.

WHAT prevents this on N52? Has anyone TRIED? Any issue at REAR of sump? I realize it's NOT just a "Pan".
George
Subframe drop is absolutely necessary. And even with it dropped it is still a PITA to get the pan clear and out of the car. You have to remove the pan completely to properly remove the old gasket because the gasket hardens to a crusty charcoal strip that needs to be chipped off the rim of the pan.
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      02-29-2024, 06:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bims328i View Post
That is honestly slick thinking Efthreeoh haha.

I like the angle of the wood fender supports as the one from Harbor Freight doesn't seem to line up as well.

I'm still planning to pick up one of the HF braces because I lack the woodworking tools but assume a hole and slot in that beam would allow for plenty of up/down adjustment.
The Harbor Freight store nearest to me is an hour and a half round trip. My homemade support bar took about 30 minutes to configure and build. The other half of my shop is for woodworking operations that are necessary to keep my 200 year old house in shape, so I had all the cutting and screw-driving tools, wood and long wood screws in stock to fab it quickly. If I had to go out to get the wood and screws and not had the woodworking tools, I'd have just bought an engine support bar from HF.

All I did was jack the engine up to get the weight off the engine mounts, then fab the support bar in place. It worked well. It's hanging on the wall if I even need it again.
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      02-29-2024, 02:24 PM   #16
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FYI, Harbor Freight accepts returns. So you can buy and try out their support, and if it doesn't work out, you can return it.
Or even if it does work for you, you can still return it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html


Last edited by StradaRedlands; 03-01-2024 at 08:33 AM..
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      03-09-2024, 01:50 PM   #17
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thank you

thank you all for your responses. I will replace the valve gasket first then look at oil pan gasket if needed. I appreciate peoples creativity and posting pics here. Thank you so much. Harbor Freight tool make sense to me.
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