[Greck]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

So sorry to hear this news. I did verify your torque. 25 N-m is correct for M12x1.5 drain plug according to BMW workshop manual. Thus converts to 18.4 lb-ft. It sounds as though the threads were over torqued prior to when you got the car. I'm surprised that the M14 failed too. I torque that bolt by hand (box end wench) and likely below the 18.4 lb-ft. You're just trying to crush the copper washer enough to seal.

There are a few avenues to go down but they likely involve pulling the oil pan. That's a biggie in this car with cross member removal being the major task. Andrew covers this in his DIYs when he had to work on his oil pump. Best of luck.

EDIT: Adding in FixmyVW.com DIY link. I was mistaken that it was Andrew's thread on sub frame drop. Another guy wrote it but there is a link to it there. Its under heading Engine Mechanical and topic is "DIY E90 Oil Pan Gasket and Subframe Drop". Link: http://www.fixmyvw.com/bmw-DIY/
Andrew did write a thread concerning his oil pump problem so it may help too.

Thank you for the quick response, for now I'm fine, yesterday I re-threaded 14x1.25 again and put plastic washer instead of copper. No need to do it 25Nm with plastic and NO FREAKING LEAK) I don't know how to do the next oil change, but for now I'm good)

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by JOHNNYBRAVO1

I use a fumoto quick drain plug, got it off ebay. I have them on everything, sooo easy to change the oil.

Link to valve?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Greck

Thank you for the quick response, for now I'm fine, yesterday I re-threaded 14x1.25 again and put plastic washer instead of copper. No need to do it 25Nm with plastic and NO FREAKING LEAK) I don't know how to do the next oil change, but for now I'm good)

I recall using some sort of rubber washer on another make and it would leak if i didn't put a new one on each time. Glad the leak has stopped but keep an eye on it. good luck

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Link to valve?

Pick the shortest one:

http://www.fumotousa.com/results.php...d=335d+3.0L+L6

[lnxguy]

Thanks!

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Can't it just be heli coiled, re tapped then flushed with oil back threw the pan and out for left over re threads? It's just like re threading blown spark plug holes.

[nicklockard]

Ok guys, resurrecting this discussion. Is Rotella T6 friendly to fully literate, DPF equipped cars?

And what IS the best oil recommendations for Phoenix, AZ (insanely hot 5 months out of 12)?

My main priorities are:

Emissions-friendly
Wear resistance

Not as concerned with long life.

[Hoooper]

All Ram/Jeep ecodiesels were switched to rotella T6 5w-40 last year, it is now the factory fill for those EGR, DPF, and SCR enabled vehicles. It is possible it will cost you a tiny bit more life and/or mpg since the ash is supposedly higher, but if it is now the factory fill for another DPF vehicle it must be at least mostly DPF friendly. As far as I know it is not BMW LL-04

[nicklockard]

Thanks Hooper,

What are your opinions on Peter's oil offerings over at idparts.com?

He lists

• Total INEO MC3 5w30 - LL-04
• Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 5w40
• Pentosin High Performance II 5w40
• Castrol Professional OE 5w30

Which is most emissions friendly with good HTHS in your opinion? I couldn't find much discussion at bitog other than unsubstantiated redline pushing

[007_e350]

Liqui Moly 5w-30 LL-04 for me hands down

[geost]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Pick the shortest one:

http://www.fumotousa.com/results.php...d=335d+3.0L+L6

Which one do you recommend? The F-109 or the F-109S? I want to get one as well. Thx!

Originally Posted by nicklockard

Thanks Hooper,

What are your opinions on Peter's oil offerings over at idparts.com?

He lists

• Total INEO MC3 5w30 - LL-04
• Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 5w40
• Pentosin High Performance II 5w40
• Castrol Professional OE 5w30

Which is most emissions friendly with good HTHS in your opinion? I couldn't find much discussion at bitog other than unsubstantiated redline pushing

I bought Liqui Moly from idparts and so far so good. I'll probably stick with them for a while.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by geost

Which one do you recommend? The F-109 or the F-109S? I want to get one as well. Thx!

Either a regular F-109 or you can try the F109SX. Basically, you want to go shortest possible and watch to make sure you do not run over any foreign objects that can damage the valve. I'm lowered on BMWPS springs and so far so good.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Either a regular F-109 or you can try the F109SX. Basically, you want to go shortest possible and watch to make sure you do not run over any foreign objects that can damage the valve. I'm lowered on BMWPS springs and so far so good.

Yozh, Is this where you had to cut a small hole in the access door or did you just remove the door?

[335dsleeper]

That's interesting. Thanks for the post.

Originally Posted by Hoooper

All Ram/Jeep ecodiesels were switched to rotella T6 5w-40 last year, it is now the factory fill for those EGR, DPF, and SCR enabled vehicles. It is possible it will cost you a tiny bit more life and/or mpg since the ash is supposedly higher, but if it is now the factory fill for another DPF vehicle it must be at least mostly DPF friendly. As far as I know it is not BMW LL-04

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Yozh, Is this where you had to cut a small hole in the access door or did you just remove the door?

I did originally get a valve with a nipple, but then cut it off and shortened it as much as possible. The access door in the undertray is on and have stayed since I have shortened the valve. That is why I suggest getting the shortest one.

[STR8-6IX]

liqui moly or motul 5w40. for diesel I would use shell rotella.

I am almost 5000 miles in on the shell rotella and this stuff is amazing! very good quality oil. alot of detergents for a gasoline motor so I wouldnt recommend using it over and over again but its perfect for a diesel engine and a very good price for the quality too.

[montr]

Originally Posted by STR8-6IX

liqui moly or motul 5w40. for diesel I would use shell rotella.

I am almost 5000 miles in on the shell rotella and this stuff is amazing! very good quality oil. alot of detergents for a gasoline motor so I wouldnt recommend using it over and over again but its perfect for a diesel engine and a very good price for the quality too.

Ash is above what is recommended by BMW. The max for a LL04 is 0.8. There are risk of clogging the DPF.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by montr

Ash is above what is recommended by BMW. The max for a LL04 is 0.8. There are risk of clogging the DPF.

Risk of DPF clogging may have some truth but, now mopar is switching to rotella t6 as factory fill allegedly to cure main bearing failures experienced with 5w-30 oils on their ecodiesel.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I did originally get a valve with a nipple, but then cut it off and shortened it as much as possible. The access door in the undertray is on and have stayed since I have shortened the valve. That is why I suggest getting the shortest one.

That's exactly what I did.

[nicklockard]

After some research I went with the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 because it had lowest NOACK (important to me in Phoenix), meets VW507, MB229.51, BMW LL04, API CF, ACEA B3,, lowest SAPS.

[fsd350]

Rotella T6 is a great, versatile oil, run it in my Powerstroke, BMW GS, Can-Am 1000, and Honda gen too. OR any high quality LL04: BMW, Motul, Mobil 1, Liquimoly etc.
Used all at one time or another in my d's. My d can't recite the alphabet, wifes X5d will be illiterate someday. (Had parts and DDE for a year, not the motivation)
Have stuck with LL04 in hers to be on the safe side for the factory "add-ons".

[nicklockard]

This year I'm trying the Rotella T6 on these and other recommendations. I have noticed 1/2 liter consumption every 5k miles with the Mobile 1 ESP which was unexpected.

How do we turn up the water pump setting? That could really help in Phoenix heat.