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      11-10-2013, 04:27 PM   #1
AlexMilwaukee
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HELPPPP!!! Cylinder misfire!!!

So yesterday, I didn't let my car warm up quite enough, and gave i a bit too much gas, and I noticed something was wrong and immediately the check engine light came on. I went to an auto part shop and run the diagnostics, and it came up with 2 codes. Both P0302 for cylinder 2 misfire.

So I read the instructions online and I switched the ignition coil on cylinder 1 and 2 to try to see if I could pinpoint the problem.

Well last night it was running the same as when it first got messed up.

Today I started the car up, let it warm up for a couple minutes, and then tried to go in reverse, and it just died.

There was noticeably less power. I then drove it to the auto parts store to read the code again. Well this time was WAY worse.

It now had 8 errors...

P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire)
P0301 (Cylinder 1 misfire)
P0156 (o2 censor bank 2)
P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire again)
P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire again)
P0303 (Cylinder 3 misfire) -how the hell did that happen, I didn't even touch those cylinders
P0300 (Random cylinder misfire)
P0304 (Cylinder 4 misfire) -how he hell did that happen, I didn't even touch this one either!

If anyone has any ideas let me know, otherwise I am going to have to take it into the shop tomorrow

Thanks,

Alex
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      11-10-2013, 07:17 PM   #2
e90pilot
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1. Did you clear the errors when you swapped the coils? The error will remain logged and you will not be able to know whether your swap worked.

2. I just read somewhere that the issue could be your ECU. An internal failure (repairable fortunately) would kill the signal to multiple coils. I can dig around for the thread.
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      11-10-2013, 07:35 PM   #3
AlexMilwaukee
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No I did not clear it. Can I clear it with the Cobb tuner? Or should I just go back to the auto part store? The guy I purchased the car from didn't teach me anything on the Cobb. He said just to leave it unless something goes wrong haha.
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      11-10-2013, 08:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexMilwaukee View Post
No I did not clear it. Can I clear it with the Cobb tuner? Or should I just go back to the auto part store? The guy I purchased the car from didn't teach me anything on the Cobb. He said just to leave it unless something goes wrong haha.
I believe it can. Not familiar with the Cobb tuner so I can't say for sure.
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      11-11-2013, 05:06 PM   #5
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The original P0302 code you got would indicate a bad cylinder #2 coil. After you swapped bad coil (without clearing codes) to cylinder #1 you got the P0301 code. I would ignore the other codes for now and first replace the bad coil which was originally on cylinder #2. I don't believe your car would start or run if three cylinders were actually down.

I just replaced another coil as I got a P0305 code. Interestingly, a coil died on the same #5 cylinder about a year ago. In this case, the dealer swapped the dead #5 coil to cylinder #2 and code followed. I bought a coil at the dealer and replaced it myself as dealer wanted $300.

I'm thinking now that spark plug in cylinder #5 may be bad or have a too- wide gap. As plugs age the gap grows which draws more voltage from coil. Drawing the higher voltage could cause coil to overheat and fail. As a reference I have 73,000 miles on my car. First coiled failed at about 65,000 miles. I'm assuming spark plugs are original.
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      12-10-2013, 09:41 PM   #6
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This was so helpful as the exact same thing just happened to me. Literally the exact same no warm up and a little too much gas backing out bc it sounded so good cold... lol
Im gonna read the code and replace the coils. Im gonna replace the plugs too bc im pretty sure that theyre the same ones that it rolled out of the factory with 93k miles ago.
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      12-10-2013, 10:14 PM   #7
AlexMilwaukee
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Just replace the coil at the very least. $40 on ebay. Shop wanted 250
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      12-13-2013, 06:25 PM   #8
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My new coil from bav auto wont install correctly...
see http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=924125 for full description
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      12-15-2013, 09:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexMilwaukee View Post
So yesterday, I didn't let my car warm up quite enough, and gave i a bit too much gas, and I noticed something was wrong and immediately the check engine light came on. I went to an auto part shop and run the diagnostics, and it came up with 2 codes. Both P0302 for cylinder 2 misfire.

So I read the instructions online and I switched the ignition coil on cylinder 1 and 2 to try to see if I could pinpoint the problem.

Well last night it was running the same as when it first got messed up.

Today I started the car up, let it warm up for a couple minutes, and then tried to go in reverse, and it just died.

There was noticeably less power. I then drove it to the auto parts store to read the code again. Well this time was WAY worse.

It now had 8 errors...

P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire)
P0301 (Cylinder 1 misfire)
P0156 (o2 censor bank 2)
P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire again)
P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire again)
P0303 (Cylinder 3 misfire) -how the hell did that happen, I didn't even touch those cylinders
P0300 (Random cylinder misfire)
P0304 (Cylinder 4 misfire) -how he hell did that happen, I didn't even touch this one either!

If anyone has any ideas let me know, otherwise I am going to have to take it into the shop tomorrow

Thanks,

Alex
Buy some new plugs first and swap those first before u start investing in coils. A good rule of thumb is to change out your spark plugs every 25k miles (factory interval is 45k miles). I started to get misfires after 30k miles of nice daily driving.
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      12-27-2013, 11:08 PM   #10
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Misfires

I had these misfire problems on my 2008 335i as well. It started under warranty at about 43k miles. Dealer replaced two injectors. This seemed to fix the WOT misfire problem but it started up again at 49k miles. Dealer Then walnut blasted the intake manifold (why he did not replace plugs or coils is beyond me). It misfired on a wot on the way home from the dealer.

So I replaced the plugs myself at 51k. The problem went away until 62k miles. Then I got cyl 1 misfires. I replaced that coil with a Delphi coil off Amazon ($37). The car runs perfect again.

My car was Dylan chipped from 1000 miles. I have 71k on it now. I installed new drilled & slotted rotors and ceramic brakes on it at 63k and changed the trans fluid at 65k. Fun car. Fourth set of tires.
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      12-28-2013, 07:12 AM   #11
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lol @ "too much gas when cold" causing these problems...change the plug AND coil of the cylInder where the issue originated, clear the codes, then go from there. These particular parts are dirt cheap. No reason not to keep a few of each on hand for situations exactly like this...
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      12-29-2013, 08:24 PM   #12
AlexMilwaukee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
lol @ "too much gas when cold" causing these problems...change the plug AND coil of the cylInder where the issue originated, clear the codes, then go from there. These particular parts are dirt cheap. No reason not to keep a few of each on hand for situations exactly like this...
You are an idiot if you think it's not a possible cause by giving the car hell when it is first started up. Troll on
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      12-30-2013, 08:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexMilwaukee View Post
You are an idiot if you think it's not a possible cause by giving the car hell when it is first started up. Troll on
Of course it's possible...I never said it wasn't. The harsher the conditions, the quicker weaker parts will make themselves known. The "too much gas during cold weather" didn't *cause* this issue though, it just exacerbated the inevitable, being that those parts were on borrowed time to begin with.
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      08-03-2018, 10:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
being that those parts were on borrowed time to begin with.
Aren't every part in a car on borrowed time?
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      08-03-2018, 11:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
Aren't every part in a car on borrowed time?
Yes, on this platform especially
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