[Tambohamilton]

I've searched around and can't find anyone with the same problem as me. The problem is that my tailgate won't lock. Everything else functions as it should, and the tailgate opens via the button/handle on the tailgate, and via the key fob...it just never locks.

Car is a (late) 2007 e91 330d, FG89708. Protool shows no fault codes relating to locking etc (just a few glow plugs and fan activation on the DDE, and the fogging sensor).

I had assumed the problem would be damaged wires at the hinge, but today I pulled the gaitor back, repaired any wires which had split insulation (none were actually broken completely), and it had no effect on anything as far as I can tell.

The tailgate has always needed a bit of a bang to close it properly, which seemed slightly amiss to me...maybe it's related?

My next step is to check fuses though I doubt that's the problem. I was wondering if maybe a new actuator is needed? Anyone any other suggestions?

gbalthrop please let me know what info I've missed, so you can give me better suggestions

Thanks in advance for any

EDIT: Thinking my JBBF was faulty, maybe water damaged, I decided I could do no harm by updating it, and default coding. I'd tried default coding previously using Bimmergeeks Protool, but it didn't help. This time, I used WinKFP to update the module (seemingly it was already at the latest version, but I programmed it anyhow), then NCSexpert to default code it. Then cleared the errors using INPA (had to cycle the ignition for them to all go away). And now the tailgate locks! See post #85 for a few more details.

[slupie]

Lock actuator might be faulty. Did you repair the wires on the left side (passenger side for you since you are in UK)?

[Tambohamilton]

No, I only looked at the right side, as I thought that's where all the wires for the lock went? I'll have a look at them when I can...

[Tambohamilton]

Just checked the left (UK passenger) side wires at the tailgate hinge - no visible damage.

Took the lock actuator out and fiddled with it. Nothing visibly wrong.

Reassembled, and no change.

Checked all fuses associated with locking (33, 56, 57, and 63), and all were fine (except 33, where there was no fuse). I haven't removed the fuse at 33, so I'm assuming that's not an issue.

My next move is to replace the lock/actuator...That's all I can really think of right now. Anyone got any better suggestions?

[Tambohamilton]

Had a look at the coding options for JBE and CAS using Protool today, just to see if there might be any setting which would affect the tailgate (not) locking.

Everything in JBE looked reasonable, though I should probably translate a few of the settings to see what they mean. However, settings in CAS were all over the place- it thinks I have a 6 cylinder, 3 litre V8, petrol, with an 8 speed manual gearbox (it's a 330d, manual). Also says things like comfort start is disabled (it's not), etc etc.

I don't want to go altering any settings right now, in case that might kill off a fragile CAS module, because I've got a road trip this weekend...but maybe someone has an idea of what might be going on here; whether this could actually be the problem, and how likely I am to brick the module if I try coding it etc...

Thanks

[vilord]

My first instinct upon seeing that much strangeness would be to assume that protool can't be trusted, not to assume a problem with the CAS...

[Tambohamilton]

Hadn't thought of it that way... If only I was more handy with one of the PC tools, I'd use that to verify Protool. I'll have another look tomorrow, and at least see if it reports the same settings again.

Right now though, I've got a boot which definitely doesn't lock, everything else I've tested so far seems to work or checks OK.... Then the CAS module appears to be mental. Right now it's the only smoking gun.

[vilord]

Does the tailgate latch mechanism make any noise when it is locked? I'm heading to mine now, I can take a listen when I hit the unlock and lock buttons.

[vilord]

Mine doesn't make any noise when I lock the car. Thinking you're right about the cas

[Tambohamilton]

Yep, no noise on lock - tailgate locking isn't mechanical on these, it's electronic. So if it opens and closes, everything in the tailgate itself is fine. The problem is elsewhere. The more I think about it now, the clearer that is. Rather wish I hadn't ordered a new tailgate lock now!

[turbohugh]

my boot sometimes wont latch until I cycle the locks with my fob.
Usually if I hit the release button inside the car it starts acting funky.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Hadn't thought of it that way... If only I was more handy with one of the PC tools, I'd use that to verify Protool. I'll have another look tomorrow, and at least see if it reports the same settings again.

Right now though, I've got a boot which definitely doesn't lock, everything else I've tested so far seems to work or checks OK.... Then the CAS module appears to be mental. Right now it's the only smoking gun.

Looked at the CAS coding again today, and it came up with the same bizarre settings, as far as I could tell. I really don't want to have to try and replace the CAS module, but I'm afraid that I'll brick the current module if/when I try and sort out its coding. Anyone any suggestions, please?

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Looked at the CAS coding again today, and it came up with the same bizarre settings, as far as I could tell. I really don't want to have to try and replace the CAS module, but I'm afraid that I'll brick the current module if/when I try and sort out its coding. Anyone any suggestions, please?

Have you been coding with Protool?? I only use NCS Expert for coding so I'm not familiar with it, but if you have, some settings may have been messed up. If you are sure there are no wiring issues, i would be scanning for fault codes with ISTA. I doubt whether Protool will read the fault codes properly. Best to use the factory BMW diagnostics for things like this. From memory the JBE cuts the signal to the tailgate actuator when it recognizes the car as being locked. There is no locking mechanism in them like the door actuators. You would need to verify that the JBE is recognizing all the other door actuators are locked. There is a service function in ISTA that does this. If everything checks out, i would do a complete encode with ISTA P. This will reset everything back to factory settings and specs.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

...The problem is that my tailgate won't lock. Everything else functions as it should, and the tailgate opens via the button/handle on the tailgate, and via the key fob...it just never locks...The tailgate has always needed a bit of a bang to close it properly, which seemed slightly amiss to me...maybe it's related? My next step is to check fuses though I doubt that's the problem...

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

...Checked all fuses associated with locking (33, 56, 57, and 63), and all were fine (except 33, where there was no fuse). I haven't removed the fuse at 33, so I'm assuming that's not an issue...

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Looked at the CAS coding again today, and it came up with the same bizarre settings, as far as I could tell. I really don't want to have to try and replace the CAS module, but I'm afraid that I'll brick the current module if/when I try and sort out its coding. Anyone any suggestions, please?

I suppose ANYTHING is POSSIBLE, but I have NEVER heard of either (1) an Internal Malfunction in the CAS Module, OR (2) a coding option that would cause 4 doors, the fuel flap, the rear window glass all LOCK but NOT the Tailgate. I can't conceive of any rational reason that coding Option WOULD be available. Generally the CAS functions to send a Lock or Unlock signal to the JBE/JBBF module which in turn controls the "Central Locking Outputs" to the various lock motors/solenoids. There IS an option to have the Remote Key unlock Driver Door ONLY on first press of unlock button, and all other locks on 2nd press, but that does NOT affect LOCK button operation.

Suggest checking your rear window lock & opening button (under Wiper Motor Output Shaft) for proper operation. Note that they have SAME X498 Chassis Ground Point, and wire to tailgate. Also, check operation of CenterLock Button @ Hazard Warning, to make sure same failure to lock (By JBE Operation) occurs. If SAME operation with CenterLock Button as with Remote Key, you simply have a garden-variety wiring issue (test with multimeter & circuit diagram), and NOT a Coding, Programming, Flashing/ Bricking issue.

The statistical chances ARE that you have a (1) bad Ground (X498) -- test for continuity to CHASSIS Ground (NOT Tailgate metal) from Pin #3 of Connector X311 at the Lock; (2) loose connection in 12V+ (when LOCK button pressed) trigger wire from JBE, Gray/Green wire to Pin #4 of Connector X311 at the Tailgate Lock; (3) Bad wire/ connection from Pin #3 of Connector X311, which as I read the schematic, is supposed to send a ground signal INPUT to the JBE either when the latch is open, or closed (NOT sure which) so you don't lock the latch when lid is raised (just a SWAG). Here are the "Central Locking Drives" or Outputs circuit AND the "Central Locking Inputs" circuit for the late (>3/2007) E91, along with the Installation Location of X498 Chassis Ground Point:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...tlputs/dWHzxgC
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...inputs/dPBLOhG
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/SIvBd98

If you examine the "Inputs" circuit, you will see that the CAS provides a Lock/Unlock signal to the JBE, basically in Parallel with the Centerlock Button at the Hazard Switch on the dash. If the SAME thing happens, regardless of whether you try to lock/unlock with the Dash Button, or with the Remote Key, then the issue is NOT the CAS.

If the tailgate does NOT latch fully, the Cargo area lights should remain ON. In that situation, the tailgate Lock may NOT operate. You can adjust the "Loop" below the latch (raise the loop slightly) to be able to latch the tailgate without "slamming" it.

On the late 2007 fuse panel, F33 is for Comfort Access, so if you do NOT have CA, there is NO fuse in the F33 slot. There is NO dedicated fuse for the Tailgate Lock. You are looking for a loose/broken Ground or 12V+ trigger wire.

George

[unrulyteach]

Interested in the solution, having the same issue boot locks and alarm is armed i hav CA but regardless of wether i have the key in my pocket it not it opens and sounds the alarm. Even with the valet button in the glove box on lock it still does it.

[Tambohamilton]

@neilj35
Again, I hadn't considered that possibility. I do have the full suite of BMW tools, I'm just not up to speed on them at all. Any chance you could give me a step-by-step on default coding (?) CAS? I should at least be able to check for errors using inpa though. Is this something which I should use a power supply when coding/flashing?

@gbalthrop
Thanks for your usual detailed response! Awesome. The rear window operates and locks exactly as it should. The tailgate interior lights do switch off when it's closed, and I don't get any bongs or warnings about it being open if it's not, so I'm content that this function is correct.

I haven't yet explicitly checked the operation of the centre button, but I can tell you that the tailgate doesn't lock when the car automatically locks at 10mph; it can be opened before I've unlocked it. I'll check the button later. I'm not sure this would rule out CAS though, because it still relies on CAS sending the correct lock signal to the JBE.

One thing I did notice is that both earth straps from the body to tailgate glass, at the hinge, were broken. I replaced one (£28!!!!!), but I didn't notice anything different afterwards. Maybe I need both?

I've got to go now...more later. Thanks everyone for your help! Much appreciated!

[Tambohamilton]

Centre button functions no differently from the key; doors lock but the tailgate will still open.

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Centre button functions no differently from the key; doors lock but the tailgate will still open.

I can guide you through coding. But BEFORE you do that i would check for the locking signal at the tailgate actuator. It is the Grey/green wire at pin 4 of the actuator connector/plug.

Connect the negative multimeter lead to pin 3 (earth) and pin 4. It should read roughly 12v when locking. If you have no 12v signal, put the negative multimeter lead onto a good body earth and recheck. (to verify the pin 3 earth is ok) If you still have no signal, you will have to disconnect the long narrow connector from the rear of the JBE. (Its a real pain to get to, circled in the pic) and check the signal coming out of the JBE at pin 12. If you have a signal coming out of pin 12 you have a broken Grey/green wire between here and pin4 of the actuator. If you have no signal coming out of pin 12, you have a JBE issue. It is at this point i would start thinking about possibly recoding. But if you haven't done any coding with Protool then it shouldn't be messed up. It's not impossible though.

[N52bigblock]

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...tlputs/dWHzxgC

It's very worthwhile learning how to use ISTA for diagnosis. There are guided tests for pretty much everything. It gives you step by step instructions on what to check and test and what results to expect. It also has all the wiring diagrams on the same screen for the circuit or component you are testing, so there's no going backwards and forwards with newtis. It's all right there in front of you. As with anything though, it's not 100% accurate but pretty damn close.

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Centre button functions no differently from the key; doors lock but the tailgate will still open.

Does your tailgate glass open when the car is locked as well or does that lock ok?

[Tambohamilton]

The glass operates properly; locked when it's locked, opens when unlocked.

EDIT: Sorry, hadn't seen your other posts.

So the JBE actually sends a signal to the lock actuator to instruct it to not open? I just assumed that it simply didn't send the open command instead.

I'll definitely do some wiring tests this evening and see what I can come up with. I won't have time to get to the JBE though.

I have used protool to change a few coding options, so there's a possibility I/it has messed something up. I definitely wasn't trying anything I thought would be sensitive though.

Thanks again

[Tambohamilton]

Pin 3 ground is good, to the body. Getting 8v between pins 3 and 4, regardless of lock state... I don't know if it would make a difference that I tested that without the lock actuator plugged in?

Anyhow, 8v seems weird. Next step to test output at the JBE?

Thanks