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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Advice on storing your car for the winter?



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      07-12-2021, 03:43 PM   #1
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Advice on storing your car for the winter?

My '11 wagon has 113k on the clock and recently I've been toying with the idea of storing it in the winter to start "preserving" it and cut out any further corrosion and pothole torture from brutal Massachusetts roads. While it may seem a bit excessive given the mileage, I feel like the car is in nice enough shape that I've switched from the idea of daily driving it to working to keep it nice for down the line. While I don't have any plans to sell it, it's hard to ignore the growing interest in these E91s (especially on BaT, etc.) and I'm beginning to acknowledge the fact that the car I initially purchased out of personal admiration really is becoming a piece of BMW history.

Anyways, the first step in this whole notion of mine is figuring out what my best options for storage are. I've looked at a couple facilities in greater Boston but these are a little beyond my ideal price point. I've done some basic reading on dos and don'ts (do avoid moisture, do top off all fluids, do remove the battery, etc.). I was hoping those who do store their cars for the winter could sound off on what they recommend (if you happen to happen to be from the area, that's a plus).

Lastly, Does anyone recommend storing outside in cold weather? Is that even a feasible option? Or should I forget about that entirely.

Thanks in advance
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      07-12-2021, 04:36 PM   #2
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Our Z3M is stored inside. It is covered and plugged into a Battery Tender. Have small pieces of carpet under the tires to help prevent concrete sucking too much moisture from the tires. Gas tank is full.

When not covered, there’s usually enough dust on the car within 2 weeks that I have to wash it again before throwing the cover back on.

Btw, down here in south FL the car is stored during the summer. It gets too hot to ride around with the top down. But principles are the same.
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      07-12-2021, 08:15 PM   #3
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I've been storing my e91 winters in Maine for many years now, probably eight. And since I moved 3/4 time to Florida four years ago it's been stored for about 9mo a year. My methodology:

1. Pull into the garage.
2. Connect battery maintainer.

That's it. No special anything. Been storing my Spitfire that way for over 25 years too. No need to overthink it for cold storage.

Down in FL I do put Stabil in the tank and fill it for the cars I store over the summer, but that is because the garage is roughly the temperature of Mercury all summer. In cold New England, it will be just fine without anything special.

I wish I had stored the e91 winters from day 1, it is amazing what even a couple of winters did to the various fasteners and whatnot under the car. It is spectacularly clean for a car in Maine, but it pales compared to my e88 and my Volvo V70, which are from South TX and SW FL respectively. On those two cars all the fasteners underneath are still *shiny*.
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      07-12-2021, 08:17 PM   #4
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Don't even THINK about storing a car outside. That never ends well. Reading your post again it sounds like you don't have a garage. Pay the money for secure, DRY, storage if you want to keep the car. Otherwise, you might as well just drive it.
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      07-12-2021, 10:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
I've been storing my e91 winters in Maine for many years now, probably eight. And since I moved 3/4 time to Florida four years ago it's been stored for about 9mo a year. My methodology:

1. Pull into the garage.
2. Connect battery maintainer.

That's it. No special anything. Been storing my Spitfire that way for over 25 years too. No need to overthink it for cold storage.

Down in FL I do put Stabil in the tank and fill it for the cars I store over the summer, but that is because the garage is roughly the temperature of Mercury all summer. In cold New England, it will be just fine without anything special.

I wish I had stored the e91 winters from day 1, it is amazing what even a couple of winters did to the various fasteners and whatnot under the car. It is spectacularly clean for a car in Maine, but it pales compared to my e88 and my Volvo V70, which are from South TX and SW FL respectively. On those two cars all the fasteners underneath are still *shiny*.
Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
I've been storing my e91 winters in Maine for many years now, probably eight. And since I moved 3/4 time to Florida four years ago it's been stored for about 9mo a year. My methodology:

1. Pull into the garage.
2. Connect battery maintainer.

That's it. No special anything. Been storing my Spitfire that way for over 25 years too. No need to overthink it for cold storage.

Down in FL I do put Stabil in the tank and fill it for the cars I store over the summer, but that is because the garage is roughly the temperature of Mercury all summer. In cold New England, it will be just fine without anything special.

I wish I had stored the e91 winters from day 1, it is amazing what even a couple of winters did to the various fasteners and whatnot under the car. It is spectacularly clean for a car in Maine, but it pales compared to my e88 and my Volvo V70, which are from South TX and SW FL respectively. On those two cars all the fasteners underneath are still *shiny*.
krhodes1 thanks for the input. So you'd recommend a trickle charger over removing and storing the battery separately ?
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      07-13-2021, 07:58 AM   #6
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Here's my winter storage checklist I follow, which I found and tweaked slightly. The checklist I follow is pretty much identical to this article on Wheels.ca.

Winter Storage Procedure

1. Change oil and filter. If you are nearing your coolant and brake fluid flush intervals, do them now as well to have fresh fluids in.
2. Fill the tank with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it).
3. Go for that last short brisk drive to burn off any moisture anywhere.
4. Use a gas preservative/stabilizer such as STA-BIL. After you put the fuel stabilizer into the tank, let it idle for 5 mins to distribute it throughout the entire fuel system.
5. Wash and wax your car right before storing it. Make sure it is fully dry in all the crevices.
6. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, or you risk mold and mildew developing.
7. Put an open box of baking soda inside the car on the passenger side floor or other suitable place. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. A large bag of desiccant gel works as well.
8. Over-inflate your tires. Over-inflating does NOT mean going over the max psi printed on the sidewall! Never do that, but you can come close. I use 45psi. This reduces flat spots on the tires. They will still happen, but will be smaller and you will recover from them faster in the spring this way.
9. To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. If you store it in a heated dry facility, this may not be necessary.
10. Park the car with some hard cardboard or plywood under the tires to put a tiny bit of space between the tires and cold concrete. Do not store the car on jack stands with wheels hanging! You risk damage to your suspension components if you do.
11. Make sure the handbrake is disengaged to prevent pads from sticking to rotors over the storage period. Put blocks under tires to prevent the car from rolling. You can leave it in gear. It should be parked on a level surface anyway.
12. Put the system on max a/c for a couple of seconds before shutting off to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, crack the windows open a little bit to allow air circulation.
13. Put steel wool in the tailpipes and air intake duct at the front to prevent any critters from treating your car as a luxury winter accommodation. This is especially important in unattended facilities.
14. Connect a quality battery tender to the connections under the hood (not to the battery directly). It is not necessary to take the battery out of the car nor disconnect it. If you do, take the usual steps to be ready once you reconnect it, like having a radio code ready.
15. Leave yourself a sticky note on the dash or steering wheel to remind yourself to undo some of your steps above in the spring like: disconnect battery tender, take out the steel wool from the pipes/intake duct, remove baking soda, adjust tire pressure, remove wheel blocks.
16. Cover the car with a high-quality car cover made for your car. Low quality covers will scratch you paint, trap dirt and moisture underneath and are many times worse than not using one at all.
17. Kiss your ride goodnight for a few months.

IMPORTANT: Do not start your car while it is stored unless you plan to actually go for an extended drive and get it fully warmed up and burn off moisture that will happen with a cold engine start-up. If you do, repeat the procedure above. You may be tempted to do so on a sunny dry day in winter, but keep in mind all the dust and salt on the road that you will collect and bring it back with you from that ride. Simply, don't do it.

Hope this helps.
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      07-13-2021, 09:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljay View Post
Here's my winter storage checklist I follow, which I found and tweaked slightly. The checklist I follow is pretty much identical to this article on Wheels.ca.

Winter Storage Procedure

1. Change oil and filter. If you are nearing your coolant and brake fluid flush intervals, do them now as well to have fresh fluids in.
2. Fill the tank with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it).
3. Go for that last short brisk drive to burn off any moisture anywhere.
4. Use a gas preservative/stabilizer such as STA-BIL. After you put the fuel stabilizer into the tank, let it idle for 5 mins to distribute it throughout the entire fuel system.
5. Wash and wax your car right before storing it. Make sure it is fully dry in all the crevices.
6. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, or you risk mold and mildew developing.
7. Put an open box of baking soda inside the car on the passenger side floor or other suitable place. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. A large bag of desiccant gel works as well.
8. Over-inflate your tires. Over-inflating does NOT mean going over the max psi printed on the sidewall! Never do that, but you can come close. I use 45psi. This reduces flat spots on the tires. They will still happen, but will be smaller and you will recover from them faster in the spring this way.
9. To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. If you store it in a heated dry facility, this may not be necessary.
10. Park the car with some hard cardboard or plywood under the tires to put a tiny bit of space between the tires and cold concrete. Do not store the car on jack stands with wheels hanging! You risk damage to your suspension components if you do.
11. Make sure the handbrake is disengaged to prevent pads from sticking to rotors over the storage period. Put blocks under tires to prevent the car from rolling. You can leave it in gear. It should be parked on a level surface anyway.
12. Put the system on max a/c for a couple of seconds before shutting off to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, crack the windows open a little bit to allow air circulation.
13. Put steel wool in the tailpipes and air intake duct at the front to prevent any critters from treating your car as a luxury winter accommodation. This is especially important in unattended facilities.
14. Connect a quality battery tender to the connections under the hood (not to the battery directly). It is not necessary to take the battery out of the car nor disconnect it. If you do, take the usual steps to be ready once you reconnect it, like having a radio code ready.
15. Leave yourself a sticky note on the dash or steering wheel to remind yourself to undo some of your steps above in the spring like: disconnect battery tender, take out the steel wool from the pipes/intake duct, remove baking soda, adjust tire pressure, remove wheel blocks.
16. Cover the car with a high-quality car cover made for your car. Low quality covers will scratch you paint, trap dirt and moisture underneath and are many times worse than not using one at all.
17. Kiss your ride goodnight for a few months.

IMPORTANT: Do not start your car while it is stored unless you plan to actually go for an extended drive and get it fully warmed up and burn off moisture that will happen with a cold engine start-up. If you do, repeat the procedure above. You may be tempted to do so on a sunny dry day in winter, but keep in mind all the dust and salt on the road that you will collect and bring it back with you from that ride. Simply, don't do it.

Hope this helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljay View Post
Here's my winter storage checklist I follow, which I found and tweaked slightly. The checklist I follow is pretty much identical to this article on Wheels.ca.

Winter Storage Procedure

1. Change oil and filter. If you are nearing your coolant and brake fluid flush intervals, do them now as well to have fresh fluids in.
2. Fill the tank with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it).
3. Go for that last short brisk drive to burn off any moisture anywhere.
4. Use a gas preservative/stabilizer such as STA-BIL. After you put the fuel stabilizer into the tank, let it idle for 5 mins to distribute it throughout the entire fuel system.
5. Wash and wax your car right before storing it. Make sure it is fully dry in all the crevices.
6. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, or you risk mold and mildew developing.
7. Put an open box of baking soda inside the car on the passenger side floor or other suitable place. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. A large bag of desiccant gel works as well.
8. Over-inflate your tires. Over-inflating does NOT mean going over the max psi printed on the sidewall! Never do that, but you can come close. I use 45psi. This reduces flat spots on the tires. They will still happen, but will be smaller and you will recover from them faster in the spring this way.
9. To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. If you store it in a heated dry facility, this may not be necessary.
10. Park the car with some hard cardboard or plywood under the tires to put a tiny bit of space between the tires and cold concrete. Do not store the car on jack stands with wheels hanging! You risk damage to your suspension components if you do.
11. Make sure the handbrake is disengaged to prevent pads from sticking to rotors over the storage period. Put blocks under tires to prevent the car from rolling. You can leave it in gear. It should be parked on a level surface anyway.
12. Put the system on max a/c for a couple of seconds before shutting off to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, crack the windows open a little bit to allow air circulation.
13. Put steel wool in the tailpipes and air intake duct at the front to prevent any critters from treating your car as a luxury winter accommodation. This is especially important in unattended facilities.
14. Connect a quality battery tender to the connections under the hood (not to the battery directly). It is not necessary to take the battery out of the car nor disconnect it. If you do, take the usual steps to be ready once you reconnect it, like having a radio code ready.
15. Leave yourself a sticky note on the dash or steering wheel to remind yourself to undo some of your steps above in the spring like: disconnect battery tender, take out the steel wool from the pipes/intake duct, remove baking soda, adjust tire pressure, remove wheel blocks.
16. Cover the car with a high-quality car cover made for your car. Low quality covers will scratch you paint, trap dirt and moisture underneath and are many times worse than not using one at all.
17. Kiss your ride goodnight for a few months.

IMPORTANT: Do not start your car while it is stored unless you plan to actually go for an extended drive and get it fully warmed up and burn off moisture that will happen with a cold engine start-up. If you do, repeat the procedure above. You may be tempted to do so on a sunny dry day in winter, but keep in mind all the dust and salt on the road that you will collect and bring it back with you from that ride. Simply, don't do it.

Hope this helps.
Wow, appreciate the detailed input! I've read that the battery tender can pose a fire risk if left unattended...I assume then your step above is accounting for a supervised storage location?
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      07-13-2021, 11:14 AM   #8
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I haven't heard of anything like that related to battery tender.
Anytime the battery is being charged, it releases combustible gasses, which is why you should ensure the vent tube on the battery is connected properly to allow venting to the outside. I suppose if you charge a battery in a closed unventilated space for extended period and then walkin with a lit cigarette, bad things can happen. But in a normal garage used daily (doors opening daily etc.), I think you're fine.
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      07-13-2021, 01:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titaniume91 View Post
krhodes1 thanks for the input. So you'd recommend a trickle charger over removing and storing the battery separately ?
Definitely. Getting the battery out of my wagon is a HUGE pain in the ass anyway. And even in the other body styles, you don't want to be messing with those IBS wires and the explosive cable cutter and such unnecessarily.

My original battery lasted nine years, and I bet I would have gotten at least a couple more if one of my dumbass housemates had not unplugged the maintainer over the winter at some point so it sat stone dead for who knows how long. The battery in my Spitfire lasted 14 years with the same treatment. And met the same demise this year thanks to my Sister in Law. Sigh. Spitfire batteries are LOTS cheaper.
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      07-13-2021, 01:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljay View Post
Here's my winter storage checklist I follow, which I found and tweaked slightly. The checklist I follow is pretty much identical to this article on Wheels.ca.

Winter Storage Procedure

1. Change oil and filter. If you are nearing your coolant and brake fluid flush intervals, do them now as well to have fresh fluids in.
2. Fill the tank with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it).
3. Go for that last short brisk drive to burn off any moisture anywhere.
4. Use a gas preservative/stabilizer such as STA-BIL. After you put the fuel stabilizer into the tank, let it idle for 5 mins to distribute it throughout the entire fuel system.
5. Wash and wax your car right before storing it. Make sure it is fully dry in all the crevices.
6. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, or you risk mold and mildew developing.
7. Put an open box of baking soda inside the car on the passenger side floor or other suitable place. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. A large bag of desiccant gel works as well.
8. Over-inflate your tires. Over-inflating does NOT mean going over the max psi printed on the sidewall! Never do that, but you can come close. I use 45psi. This reduces flat spots on the tires. They will still happen, but will be smaller and you will recover from them faster in the spring this way.
9. To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. If you store it in a heated dry facility, this may not be necessary.
10. Park the car with some hard cardboard or plywood under the tires to put a tiny bit of space between the tires and cold concrete. Do not store the car on jack stands with wheels hanging! You risk damage to your suspension components if you do.
11. Make sure the handbrake is disengaged to prevent pads from sticking to rotors over the storage period. Put blocks under tires to prevent the car from rolling. You can leave it in gear. It should be parked on a level surface anyway.
12. Put the system on max a/c for a couple of seconds before shutting off to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, crack the windows open a little bit to allow air circulation.
13. Put steel wool in the tailpipes and air intake duct at the front to prevent any critters from treating your car as a luxury winter accommodation. This is especially important in unattended facilities.
14. Connect a quality battery tender to the connections under the hood (not to the battery directly). It is not necessary to take the battery out of the car nor disconnect it. If you do, take the usual steps to be ready once you reconnect it, like having a radio code ready.
15. Leave yourself a sticky note on the dash or steering wheel to remind yourself to undo some of your steps above in the spring like: disconnect battery tender, take out the steel wool from the pipes/intake duct, remove baking soda, adjust tire pressure, remove wheel blocks.
16. Cover the car with a high-quality car cover made for your car. Low quality covers will scratch you paint, trap dirt and moisture underneath and are many times worse than not using one at all.
17. Kiss your ride goodnight for a few months.

IMPORTANT: Do not start your car while it is stored unless you plan to actually go for an extended drive and get it fully warmed up and burn off moisture that will happen with a cold engine start-up. If you do, repeat the procedure above. You may be tempted to do so on a sunny dry day in winter, but keep in mind all the dust and salt on the road that you will collect and bring it back with you from that ride. Simply, don't do it.

Hope this helps.
That all seems wildly unnecessary for casual winter storage in a dry garage. As I mentioned, I have been storing my Spitfire winters for 25+ years with nothing but a battery tender here in Maine. Zero issues. I do agree with don't start it unless you plan to drive it though.

Now true long-term storage (years, not months) is a different ball of wax.
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      07-14-2021, 02:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
That all seems wildly unnecessary for casual winter storage in a dry garage. As I mentioned, I have been storing my Spitfire winters for 25+ years with nothing but a battery tender here in Maine. Zero issues. I do agree with don't start it unless you plan to drive it though.

Now true long-term storage (years, not months) is a different ball of wax.
I agree. I have been storing motorcycles in the winters for 25 years just with battery tenders, full fuel with treatment, and covers.
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      07-14-2021, 10:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljay View Post
Here's my winter storage checklist I follow, which I found and tweaked slightly. The checklist I follow is pretty much identical to this article on Wheels.ca.

Winter Storage Procedure

1. Change oil and filter. If you are nearing your coolant and brake fluid flush intervals, do them now as well to have fresh fluids in.
2. Fill the tank with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it).
3. Go for that last short brisk drive to burn off any moisture anywhere.
4. Use a gas preservative/stabilizer such as STA-BIL. After you put the fuel stabilizer into the tank, let it idle for 5 mins to distribute it throughout the entire fuel system.
5. Wash and wax your car right before storing it. Make sure it is fully dry in all the crevices.
6. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, or you risk mold and mildew developing.
7. Put an open box of baking soda inside the car on the passenger side floor or other suitable place. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. A large bag of desiccant gel works as well.
8. Over-inflate your tires. Over-inflating does NOT mean going over the max psi printed on the sidewall! Never do that, but you can come close. I use 45psi. This reduces flat spots on the tires. They will still happen, but will be smaller and you will recover from them faster in the spring this way.
9. To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. If you store it in a heated dry facility, this may not be necessary.
10. Park the car with some hard cardboard or plywood under the tires to put a tiny bit of space between the tires and cold concrete. Do not store the car on jack stands with wheels hanging! You risk damage to your suspension components if you do.
11. Make sure the handbrake is disengaged to prevent pads from sticking to rotors over the storage period. Put blocks under tires to prevent the car from rolling. You can leave it in gear. It should be parked on a level surface anyway.
12. Put the system on max a/c for a couple of seconds before shutting off to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, crack the windows open a little bit to allow air circulation.
13. Put steel wool in the tailpipes and air intake duct at the front to prevent any critters from treating your car as a luxury winter accommodation. This is especially important in unattended facilities.
14. Connect a quality battery tender to the connections under the hood (not to the battery directly). It is not necessary to take the battery out of the car nor disconnect it. If you do, take the usual steps to be ready once you reconnect it, like having a radio code ready.
15. Leave yourself a sticky note on the dash or steering wheel to remind yourself to undo some of your steps above in the spring like: disconnect battery tender, take out the steel wool from the pipes/intake duct, remove baking soda, adjust tire pressure, remove wheel blocks.
16. Cover the car with a high-quality car cover made for your car. Low quality covers will scratch you paint, trap dirt and moisture underneath and are many times worse than not using one at all.
17. Kiss your ride goodnight for a few months.

IMPORTANT: Do not start your car while it is stored unless you plan to actually go for an extended drive and get it fully warmed up and burn off moisture that will happen with a cold engine start-up. If you do, repeat the procedure above. You may be tempted to do so on a sunny dry day in winter, but keep in mind all the dust and salt on the road that you will collect and bring it back with you from that ride. Simply, don't do it.

Hope this helps.

Wow this list is so helpful! Just wanna add some tips:

1. Remember to lubricate important chassis points. You know things will get brittle and start to crumble or crack if you stop using your car for a long time so make sure to keep them fresh for your next drive.

2. Don't forget to place a BIG bag of desiccant inside your car. OMG I cannot stand the awful musty moldy smell when I opened the door after months of storage. My BIG lesson!

3. One last thing, use rodent repellant outside of your car to make sure your car, like the soy-based wiring won't be delicious food for repellant
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      07-14-2021, 10:50 PM   #13
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Glad I saw this thread. Will be storing my e90 from Aug-May, with a break in January. I have an AGM battery. Will a battery tender have any effect on its lifespan? My maintainer has an AGM mode. Paid a lot for the battery and want it to last as long as possible.
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      07-15-2021, 12:03 AM   #14
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I think it would be more beneficial for the battery to store in a climate controlled area (not in car) and give it a charge before storing and before using. The cold is a battery killer...
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      07-15-2021, 02:07 AM   #15
evanmike.auto
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I still think the battery should be stored with a battery tender since it needs to be constantly fed with energy to keep internal chemical reactions balanced.
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      07-15-2021, 12:43 PM   #16
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There are lots of info on car storage procedures. BMWs are the same. I don't start-up any of the winter stored cars to avoid moisture accumulation. Battery tender is a must as modern cars have electronics that draw power.
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      07-16-2021, 07:58 PM   #17
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I'd suggest a winter beater for those really awful winter days/weeks. (Also for those really awful summer days, for parking on the beach.) Not all winter days and weeks are awful. I bought new snow tires for the BMW last year but never put the winter wheels on the car because the bad weather mostly occurred at the beginning of the season.

I'm guessing that you had planned for a second car, anyway.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...inter-beaters/

https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...inter-beaters/

I live near the ocean and our cars get a double whammy -- salt on the roads in the winter, and salt spray at the beach in the summer.(At least the Eurocars don't dissolve as quickly as our Hondas have.)

The E91 is a cult car, for sure, but it won't last forever, no matter what you do. Also, rodents enjoy munching on the electrical wires of BMWs (and Hondas) that aren't driven too much. Apparently both marques use soybean-based electrical wire insulation. Honda even has a cayenne-pepper flavored electrical tape with an official Honda part number to discourage rodents from revisiting.

I wish I could enjoy mine more. It has low mileage, but not by intention -- I telecommute.

The use of a battery tender is encouraged. I routinely plug the car in on Saturday if I don't drive it a lot (winter and summer). The BMW's electrical system is never really asleep so there is a constant battery discharge.
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      07-19-2021, 10:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Shiftright View Post
I'd suggest a winter beater for those really awful winter days/weeks. (Also for those really awful summer days, for parking on the beach.) Not all winter days and weeks are awful. I bought new snow tires for the BMW last year but never put the winter wheels on the car because the bad weather mostly occurred at the beginning of the season.

I'm guessing that you had planned for a second car, anyway.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...inter-beaters/

https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...inter-beaters/

I live near the ocean and our cars get a double whammy -- salt on the roads in the winter, and salt spray at the beach in the summer.(At least the Eurocars don't dissolve as quickly as our Hondas have.)

The E91 is a cult car, for sure, but it won't last forever, no matter what you do. Also, rodents enjoy munching on the electrical wires of BMWs (and Hondas) that aren't driven too much. Apparently both marques use soybean-based electrical wire insulation. Honda even has a cayenne-pepper flavored electrical tape with an official Honda part number to discourage rodents from revisiting.

I wish I could enjoy mine more. It has low mileage, but not by intention -- I telecommute.

The use of a battery tender is encouraged. I routinely plug the car in on Saturday if I don't drive it a lot (winter and summer). The BMW's electrical system is never really asleep so there is a constant battery discharge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Shiftright View Post
I'd suggest a winter beater for those really awful winter days/weeks. (Also for those really awful summer days, for parking on the beach.) Not all winter days and weeks are awful. I bought new snow tires for the BMW last year but never put the winter wheels on the car because the bad weather mostly occurred at the beginning of the season.

I'm guessing that you had planned for a second car, anyway.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...inter-beaters/

https://www.caranddriver.com/feature...inter-beaters/

I live near the ocean and our cars get a double whammy -- salt on the roads in the winter, and salt spray at the beach in the summer.(At least the Eurocars don't dissolve as quickly as our Hondas have.)

The E91 is a cult car, for sure, but it won't last forever, no matter what you do. Also, rodents enjoy munching on the electrical wires of BMWs (and Hondas) that aren't driven too much. Apparently both marques use soybean-based electrical wire insulation. Honda even has a cayenne-pepper flavored electrical tape with an official Honda part number to discourage rodents from revisiting.

I wish I could enjoy mine more. It has low mileage, but not by intention -- I telecommute.

The use of a battery tender is encouraged. I routinely plug the car in on Saturday if I don't drive it a lot (winter and summer). The BMW's electrical system is never really asleep so there is a constant battery discharge.
Interesting. So are you saying that, if you were me, you might just forgo storing my wagon altogether and just drive it when the days are nice? You are correct in the assumption that I'm looking for a beater. I'm in the market for a WJ Grand Cherokee with an I6, but the market is tight...
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