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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Water pump diagnosis



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      02-06-2015, 06:19 PM   #1
Zernaff
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Is there any way to tell for sure if my water pump has failed? I went to the dealer for an inspection and they told me it needed to be replaced - and they said they wanted to fix a tensioner and the brakes and and oil pan gasket all for $4650 - so I don't fully trust them. So, before I fork out $400 for a water pump I want to be positive it's broken.

I got codes 2E81 and 2E84.

My radiator fan comes on sometimes (1-2 times a week this happens) and will stay on full blast until I park the car - Ktemp goes to 75C while fan is on.
This is why they checked the codes.

Coolant temperature has never gone over 100C in the last three weeks I've been watching it.

Dealer visit was two days ago.

Any advice?

Thanks.
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      02-07-2015, 06:25 AM   #2
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If you independently validated the codes, then the water pump is on the way out. Eventually it will just stop working and the engine will overheat. The car should tell you when the brake pads are spent and need replacement. If the red "Brake" light is not illuminated (and stays illuminated) and if the CBS maintenance menu doesn't show -- miles on the brake pads, then it is not time for them. The pan gasket requires dropping the front subframe to replace the gasket, which at dealer labor rates is expensive and throw in a new alignment too. So all cars as they age get leaky gaskets; it's just a matter of how bad. If the pan gasket is just seeping; it usually does on the back right side of the engine on the N52, then careful re-torqueing the of the pan bolts will reduce the leak some. If it's not making a mess on the garage floor and just mucking up the belly pan, then I'd leave it be. My car has been seeping at the pan gasket for a few years now and over 100,000 miles, and I've not replaced mine (and I could easily do it myself).

Also, all of these items can be accomplished by a qualified independent BMW repair shop for a lot less money. The water pump at an indy should be in the $800 range including a new thermostat.
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      02-07-2015, 01:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zernaff View Post
Is there any way to tell for sure if my water pump has failed? I went to the dealer for an inspection and they told me it needed to be replaced - and they said they wanted to fix a tensioner and the brakes and and oil pan gasket all for $4650 - so I don't fully trust them. So, before I fork out $400 for a water pump I want to be positive it's broken.

I got codes 2E81 and 2E84.

My radiator fan comes on sometimes (1-2 times a week this happens) and will stay on full blast until I park the car - Ktemp goes to 75C while fan is on.
This is why they checked the codes.

Coolant temperature has never gone over 100C in the last three weeks I've been watching it.

Dealer visit was two days ago.

Any advice?

Thanks.
Those are codes for the WP/Tstat on its last legs, don't wait for a full failure... Get it changed ASAP. Find a local indy who will give you a good price or pick up the parts yourself and see if your indy will install them. But get it done ASAP.

You will need a new waterpump, thermostat, new screws/bolts, new bmw coolant. Labor rate of 3 hours.
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      02-07-2015, 04:54 PM   #4
Zernaff
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Thanks, found a pump from a dealer in NJ for $330 ordering it now. Thinking about the wahler tstat on Amazon.

Do I need to replace any hoses?
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      02-07-2015, 05:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zernaff View Post
Is there any way to tell for sure if my water pump has failed? I went to the dealer for an inspection and they told me it needed to be replaced - and they said they wanted to fix a tensioner and the brakes and and oil pan gasket all for $4650 - so I don't fully trust them. So, before I fork out $400 for a water pump I want to be positive it's broken.

I got codes 2E81 and 2E84.

My radiator fan comes on sometimes (1-2 times a week this happens) and will stay on full blast until I park the car - Ktemp goes to 75C while fan is on.
This is why they checked the codes.

Coolant temperature has never gone over 100C in the last three weeks I've been watching it.

Dealer visit was two days ago.

Any advice?

Thanks.
My radiator fan would randomly go on/off too, and my indy BMW repair shop found water pump slow speeds code. So, if I were you, I'd get the water pump and thermostat changed at the same time. Also get a coolant flush at the same time.

As far as those other items, isn't there an indy BMW shop near you? Dealer always charges alot. That being said, those issues seem like you'd want to get them fixed or looked at by another place.

Have fun with the expensive repairs tho, I am so glad that I got rid of my 330i the other week.
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      02-07-2015, 05:33 PM   #6
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There is one right down the street actually. Should be about $550 total.
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      02-07-2015, 06:20 PM   #7
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+1 what they said ^^
Fwiw, iirc my wp died <1000 miles (2 weeks?) or so after the codes popped up. My oil pan gasket has been leaking slightly for about 50k miles, retightened bolts once.
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      02-07-2015, 06:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by BMW_drei
+1 what they said ^^
Fwiw, iirc my wp died &lt;1000 miles (2 weeks?) or so after the codes popped up. My oil pan gasket has been leaking slightly for about 50k miles, retightened bolts once.
I'm trying not to drive anywhere until the new pump gets here. The fan issue has been happening for ~3000 miles. I cleaned the MAF sensor and it doesn't come on as much but I don't know how to tell when the codes popped up. I was at the dealer for scheduled maintenance and they told me. Hopefully they came up recently.
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      02-08-2015, 02:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zernaff View Post
I'm trying not to drive anywhere until the new pump gets here. The fan issue has been happening for ~3000 miles. I cleaned the MAF sensor and it doesn't come on as much but I don't know how to tell when the codes popped up. I was at the dealer for scheduled maintenance and they told me. Hopefully they came up recently.
You need a code reader like the bt tool to see them (great investment btw) and it will tell you the odo reading when the code was recorded. When the pump finally dies you will be stranded, although it may die intermittently first.
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      02-08-2015, 06:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zernaff View Post
Thanks, found a pump from a dealer in NJ for $330 ordering it now. Thinking about the wahler tstat on Amazon.

Do I need to replace any hoses?
I replaced my entire set of hoses (all 9) at 7 and a half years and 236,000 miles. All were still in good shape and probably didn't need replacement. However, how you drive and the environment you drive in can affect the longevity of hoses, so you really just need to inspect them, but my point is the E90 hoses are pretty robust. If you are DIYing the pump, here's my water pump DIY I posted a long time ago; it's specifically written for the '06 325i. Note that the hoses with BMW's special connectors are a pain in the butt to deal with, which I discuss in the DIY. And just for kicks the DIY for the hoses.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Water Pump_T-stat DIY.pdf (110.6 KB, 73 views)
File Type: pdf Coolant Hosereplacement.pdf (1.26 MB, 95 views)
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      02-08-2015, 08:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zernaff View Post
Thanks, found a pump from a dealer in NJ for $330 ordering it now. Thinking about the wahler tstat on Amazon.

Do I need to replace any hoses?
I replaced my entire set of hoses (all 9) at 7 and a half years and 236,000 miles. All were still in good shape and probably didn't need replacement. However, how you drive and the environment you drive in can affect the longevity of hoses, so you really just need to inspect them, but my point is the E90 hoses are pretty robust. If you are DIYing the pump, here's my water pump DIY I posted a long time ago; it's specifically written for the '06 325i. Note that the hoses with BMW's special connectors are a pain in the butt to deal with, which I discuss in the DIY. And just for kicks the DIY for the hoses.
I'll have the shop check out the hoses then but they should be okay. I'm at 150,000 miles, car is old though, close to 10 years. Thanks
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      02-08-2015, 08:28 AM   #12
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$4650 sounds like a lot...
Does that include a full bushing and engine replacement too?
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      02-08-2015, 07:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GB-335xiCoupe
$4650 sounds like a lot...
Does that include a full bushing and engine replacement too?
I know right. That's like half my cars value.
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      02-08-2015, 07:48 PM   #14
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Driving home I took this - 60 degrees farenheight outside - after being at 91C the fan came on and didn't shut back off.
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      02-09-2015, 01:13 PM   #15
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When mine failed the fan was running full blast all the time and I has code 2E82. When trying the automatic bleed the pump sounded like this:



I replaced the pump, pump bolts, thermostat, coolant, and coolant temp sensor all with OEM parts for about $440 shipped. Took about 4 hours to do, pretty easy.
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      02-09-2015, 05:57 PM   #16
Zernaff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02
When mine failed the fan was running full blast all the time and I has code 2E82. When trying the automatic bleed the pump sounded like this:



I replaced the pump, pump bolts, thermostat, coolant, and coolant temp sensor all with OEM parts for about $440 shipped. Took about 4 hours to do, pretty easy.
That's not bad at all. I ordered a pump, looking for a hose and thermostat.

How can I replicate that noise? Or, I guess I'm asking how I test the water pump.

Thanks.
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      02-10-2015, 12:23 AM   #17
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Look up the coolant bleed procedure. On here or google. Forgot how to do it exactly but it involves setting the heater on low and holding down the gas pedal for awhile, engine off obviously.
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      02-12-2015, 02:54 PM   #18
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I find it funny that when my water pump went out, I had it replaced at the dealer and they said my oil pan gasket needed to be replaced as well. Turns out it was the oil filter housing gasket, no the $2800 oil pan gasket they quoted me. You should definitely look around the OFHG, the part was only $40 or something like that.
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      02-15-2015, 01:14 PM   #19
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Water pump died this morning, same as usual - heat wasn't working, pulled up obc menu for temp, slowly worked its way up to 117C then said overheating.

Made it 149700 miles on original pump.
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