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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY Turbo Install for OEM Replacement E92 335i
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04-05-2016, 07:32 AM | #45 |
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I am currently doing this on my 2007 335xi, just about to remove the turbos. I am also doing my oil pan gasket, would you still be willing to share the photos for this? Thanks for the awesome write it, it's been a big help.
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06-04-2016, 07:21 PM | #46 |
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finally the twins are in
first I want to give many thanks for member moo snuckle for posting his detailed turbo DIY on here which was very helpful and encouraging for me to do such a long hard job replacing the turbos.
I got mine replaced 3 days ago and the car now drives like new. As I learned from all members and posts here and there ,now I wanted to share my experience here so we all help each other fix our car problems. My symptoms of bad turbos was a siren coming on when I start the car then go away and when I gas it the siren comes back loud causing reduced power engine malfunction warning to come on. I got sick of it so I watched some videos and hear some stories from different members on different forums and after that I was sure that my turbos are bad, so I decided to go for it and get them done. I followed MOO SNUCKLE steps and I also used some other info from a turbo diy on *********** site. it took me almost 30 hrs through out the week to take everything apart since it is my first time, I did face hard times getting things apart especially the coolant line screws on the subframe, the screws for the steering, screws for bar holding the solenoids especially the the last one close to the rear turbo. As I removed the turbos, I did the rear one first then the front which I found clogged and fans inside jammed and that's where the problem is and siren coming from. rear turbo seems to be good but I replaced it for peace of mind . I replaced all orings and cleaned everything put lines back on turbos and did the rear one first ,I had hard time on one of the screws from top didn't go in easy it was touching the turbo body so I end up shaving it from outside using a grinder then it went in smooth. after that I installed front turbo and it was easier than the rear one unlike what most say. I put everything together and now got to the downpipes and oh man they frustrated me and took me lomg time to line them up.i suggest you put some grease on the seals so they stay stuck on the pipe and not moving and getting on the way.Then loosened the nut holding the DP and I used a plier to press them together and it worked. when u get to this level everything else becomes like a piece of cake . fininished everything added oil and coolant ,purged the system started up lil smoke come out that's because of grease I used on the DP (normal). took it for a test drive and here I am writing my experience. |
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06-29-2016, 02:59 AM | #47 |
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Thanks for the tips. I'm in the process of removing the RB turbos and will send them to Rob for rebuilding. The cars smoking a lot when coming to a stop. I'm also doing a complete suspension overhaul, replacing the valve covers and oil pan gaskets.
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07-07-2016, 10:56 PM | #48 |
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Just wanted to add another thank you to moo snuckle for the nice write-up. This was a great resource for me when I replaced my turbos a few weeks ago. The job took me quite awhile but overall went pretty smoothly.
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07-18-2016, 04:53 AM | #50 |
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Hello there! Fantastic writeup! Currently using this to replace the turbos on my 135i. I have to get some extended length hex sockets to finish with the manifolds, but does anyone have a trick to getting the water/oil coolant lines removed? I pull and pull but they don't want to come out. I don't really want to use anything to try and leverage them out either for fear of damage. Thanks in advance!
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07-18-2016, 08:40 AM | #51 | |
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Drives: E61 535XI, E92 335I (Sold)
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08-09-2016, 07:16 AM | #52 | |
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I think I will be doing the same for installation, installing the lines before trying to wrangle the turbos back onto the block. |
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09-01-2016, 08:17 PM | #54 |
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I will definitely be using this to do my turbo install next week! AWESOME job spending the time to put together such a thorough DIY. Do you know where I can I find the torque specs for everything? Also, to prime the system I need to remove a relay? Any picture of where and what this relay looks like? Did it help to install the lines to the turbos before the installation? any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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09-01-2016, 08:24 PM | #55 | |
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Quote:
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03-14-2017, 09:48 AM | #57 |
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I did, simply because the securing torx screw is a bitch to get to if you install the lines after the turbos are already bolted back on to the engine..
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04-08-2017, 12:21 AM | #58 |
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is everyone replacing all their exhaust studs and copper nuts? also the 6 exhaust manifold gaskets part 11627558906?
i bought all the gaskets and o rings and new oil lines, i am on the fence on the water lines to turbo. |
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04-09-2017, 03:12 PM | #59 |
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This is the kind of project you want to ensure to do once right, so I would replace all the gaskets and O rings to make sure no leaks occur afterwards. Don't unnecessarily cut corners. Remember to use O ring lubricant so they don't crash during install of components. The copper nuts are self-locking (one-time use) and therefore I replaced them. They're also cheap. I reused all the oil and water lines since they were in good condition. Just make sure to clean them thoroughly. Observe torque values diligently- stripping something can be disastrous.
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06-06-2017, 03:07 PM | #60 |
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Great writeup, does anyone have a list of parts that is smart to replace while you're at it? Like o rings, gaskets, vacuum hoses
I thought maybe do the thermostat and water pump also while the subframe is lowered...Also my oil pan is leaking so this is a good timing to do this while fixing the wastegate rattle. 11 12 7 593 376 (16x) studs for cylinder head - turbo Last edited by Gtech; 06-06-2017 at 03:23 PM.. |
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07-22-2017, 11:19 PM | #66 |
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Here ya all go. I can't believe Photobucket did that without warning.
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